Guys, so I just got a slim 2011A that when turned on will instantly go yellow light then blinking red light, according to the seller if you keep on trying to turn it on it will eventually boot but that might require a couple of minutes of trying. I haven't had a chance to open it up yet since i'm currently at the office and will go home in a couple of hours. I have a GLOD 25xx slim for spares that could be a donor and also i'm confident in my soldering skills (no hot air station though, only a soldering iron). I'm thinking that the first thing i'll try is swapping the PSU in case it's dead. The question is: in your experience, what could be the problem? PSU? thermal paste under IHS (unlikely as it should boot and then shut down but whatever)? I'm open to all suggestions and will start working on it as soon as I get home
If the seller told the truth the first thing you should do is to replace the PSU, this is the kind of thing that happens with partially damaged capacitors, refuses to work when cold (but eventually works when they gets a bit hotter)
yep that's what i thought and why i was replacing the PSU first although with a 25xx psu, they should work anyway right?
Yes, the PSU's from PS3 20xx series and 25xx are compatibles, you can see it in this table https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply#Retail_models The biggest difference is the PSU's from 25xx have a few less watts, this is not a problem but in long term is bad because it means a PSU from a 25xx used in a 20xx will work under more stress (so it could short the lifetime of the PSU), but doesnt matters much
Welp, tried the 25xx PSU and it's still doing the same thing, I'm gonna delid and replace thermal paste next and see if it has any effect.
Sounds like nec problem. That model still has nec TOKINs I believe instead of tantulums. You might try replacing one of those and see what happens. Check out the thread I have stickied and read through it. I think I recall two ps3 with similar symptoms that were fixed. If you get it going try running the last of us or gt6 to see if those two will cause it to YLOD on you.
Changing paste under IHS didn't help either. Is there a way of replacing the tokins without a hot air gun?
You don’t need a hot air gun or rework station for this repair. A simple soldering iron will suffice. Some solder Debraid to clean up the old, some good flux, rubbing alcohol, and some patience. Read through that thread I told you about. It’s not that hard of a repair to try. Hardest part is getting the tokins off the board.
yeah not gonna do this, replacement solid state caps and tantalium caps are way too expensive to be guessing if this is going to work or not
Yea unless you have this already available this is more then the system is worth unless BC and even the that is close to price point.
