PS3 CECHA00 60gb PS3 Shuts off in only one game, YLOD style.

Discussion in 'Hardware Mods' started by SeanRanklin, Sep 26, 2018.

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Not much, it needs to be "equal or bigger"
    With the voltage is better to use the same, and with the capacitance is better to exceed a bit the original value from factory

    As i mentioned somewhere before, you can do it by buying the cheapest tantalum capacitors you find
    The idealistic thing would be to replace every tokin by a single tantalum capacitor of the same value, the factory tokins are 1200uf (for PS3 fats) or 1000uf (for PS3 slims) but as far i know doesnt exists tantalum capacitors so big
    There are tantalum capacitors of 470uf @ 2.5v by soldering 2 of them in paralell you can get close to the factory values
    But as far i know there are also tantalum capacitors of 330uf @ 2.5v that are very common and cheap, by doing it with this ones you are going to need a lot of them... but take a look at aliexpress and ebay... you can buy a a bag of them (30 or 50 units) like candies... for 8€ free shipping
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    NEC/TOKIN wants to know your location!
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    JOJOBA

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    1 per NEC/TOKIN
    Edit:Oh sorry i mean 2 per pair of nec tokin
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    You do realise that a NEC TOKIN has 2 positive points and 2 ground points, by soldering 1 only, you are only soldering 1 positive and 1 ground, and what about the other two? The PS3 won't even start, i guarantee you that. Its like a chain reaction (Ongoing Current = Positive - Ground - Ground - Positive = CELL/RSX)

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    It should work

    I guess you can bypass one of them with a wire... you know the same thing needed to do when removing the tokin... a wire from "vin" to "vout"
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    Well i didnt mate, for me it worked just with the tantalum attached,but i guess that its due to the fact that the other NEC/TOKIN its creating a bypass, if i would to remove it too,i would have to create the same wire bypass, at least thats my guess.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yep, you mentioned it before, and i think you are right, the wire that appears in some photos is needed only if you remove the tokins (at both sides of the board)

    The tokin doesnt makes any voltage conversion (in other words, the voltage that goes in is the same that goes out), and the "vin" and "vout" are references to the tokin
    So basically... the "vin" and "vout" are connected together internally inside the tokin
     
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    joe musashi

    joe musashi Member

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    tall me after you put tantalum capacitor have u get ylod or rlod or even your ps3 has got huge heat
     
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    shinichi999

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    Ok I have breaking news, I tried both games for more than 50 minutes and, again, I didn't have any problem! But I was really surprised about the fan speed. Usually my temperatures are around 58 degrees celsius with a speed of 29%, but with TLOU my fan speed was around 41% for 58-60 degrees celsius, which leads me to think that the issue could be caused by an overheating problem and not by a capacitor or something like that.

    I have tested so far all the videogames listed with issues here and I didn't have any problem. I'm still thinking that my FAT PS3 is kind of special haha (and actually it is, because of the mod and the thermal paste changed even under the IHS, along the new fan and power supply.

    Anyway, that's my report for today! Is there any other game to try?
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2019
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    Don't blame the heat mate, your console simply hasn't meet its demise! Play it for years, without any fan mods, under a cabinet, without any cleaning, then we will talk :)

    Depending on how much use it had, your capacitors may be it great shape, despite its age, there its no (special) console.

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    shinichi999

    shinichi999 Member

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    I don't really understand your point (or sarcasm). Playing that way will kill ANY console (no matter if it's FAT, SLIM or SUPER SLIM). Moreover, I'm talking about heating because the 60 GB model tends to overheat more than any other, especially with TLOU, which can be causing the problem (but I'm not really an expert to ensure that).

    You got a point there. I bought the console used with 3.30 OFW in 2018 (and the maintenances explained before), so yeah, if the capacitors are the problem for the rest of consoles, then mine probably are in really great shape as you said. I just can consider myself lucky :)
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    My replies do not come with sarcasm, when ill throw a reply as a sarcasm, you will understand.

    Anyhow, don't consider yourself lucky just yet, i had C04s that were in great shape to my eyes, and see how far got me, to my 9th Unit, always failing after 2 weeks of use, because you never know how the previous owned took care of the machine, until you have it in your hands.

    With this one i have, i know it was failing due to the capacitors age, so it wasn't a complete capacitance loss, like a normal YLOD, when the machine doesn't turn on, no matter how many times you try,which in that case needs a full capacitors replacement if you want to use the machine.

    Regarding your console on a older firmware when you got it, i had myself a 3.61 C04, untouched since 2011,and guess what, it failed 2 weeks later.

    If i were you i would do a little homework regarding how these capacitors work, you need to understand that the PS3 its not the only machine to use these capacitors, laptops are the most common to use it as well, though by today's standards they have been replaced with Tantalums, because of they're short life span and terrible reliability, and even if it dies, how do you bring it back to life, you guest it tantalum replacement. People quickly figured it out that the problem for the YLOD wasn't bad solder-joints like the myth suggested, but actually bad capacitors that couldn't feed the GPU properly, once people started to connect the dots, the whole YLOD reballing stuff makes less sense to believe.

    My advice, don't force the console too much, the more you force it the shorter the lifespan of these capacitors are, but eventually you will need to replace them when the time will come,which its better than when people bragged about reballing,and did more damage than good.
    Don't every try to say something like, that will not happen to my PS3 because i know it too well, with so many units ive worked with on my daily basis, you need to learn not to be naive.

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    pinky Bitsiboo's Other Half Developer

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    lmao! :-p
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    After installing the Tantalum Capacitors, no i didn't experienced any form or YLOD/RLOD, as the feed for the RSX has stabilized, so no feed cut there.

    Regarding the Thermal Dissipation, changing the Capacitors won't change your heat Dissipation, in any way shape of form, if your console had 70°Cs Thresholds with the original NEC/TOKINs, rest assured you will have the same 70°Cs as before with the Tantalum swap.

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    shinichi999

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    Thanks, I understand the issue a little bit now. I have had this console since 1 year and everything runs flawlessly for now. Of course, I don't pretend to force the console (I played TLOU only this time just to test the stability of the console), since I mainly use it to play PS2 games taking advantage of the backward compatibility, so I really hope to have several years ahead with the console working perfectly.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Just for curiosity sake...
    All capacitors generates a bit of heat by themselfs, so the tokins should generate some heat, but the tokins are located very close to the CELL/RSX and all that area of the motherboard is heated by CELL/RSX
    So most probably what is happening is CELL/RSX transfers some heat to the tokins, and this seems to be the reason why some tokins have a thermal pad on top, because the heat is transfered in this direction
    CELL/RSX ---> tokin ---> thermal pad ---> metal shield

    Also, at the other side of the tokins is located the "power blocks" (a group of components to make voltage conversions) that generates a good amount of heat (this ones have thermal pads too)
    So... the tokins are surrounded by other components hotter than them

    In other words... the tokin itself should not need a thermal pad (because the amount of heat generated by the tokins should not be big)... the thermal pad is there because there are other components transfering heat to the tokins
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    Well if you are using mainly for the PlayStation2 side, i dont see the problem, i do use it only for the PlayStation2 myself, but be warned, the capacitor feed cut (YLOD) might still happen, i had a couple of time that happend to me during a PlayStation2 Title, first was choppy frames, with sudden black-screen,then it displayed normaly, and after that YLOD. The more recent case was a straight power cut, the GPU wasnt getting enough juice, so the console instant shutoff,as a failsafe (the board remained for parts).
     
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    That actually crossed my mind, i always left the thermal pads on mine, although thoes so called Thermal Pads, that looks like a sticky piece of paper, doesnt do a pretty good job as far as i am concerned.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I remember the first time i opened my PS3 slim the thermal pads was new, had some "liquid" and very gummy, like a bubblegum, i thought that was nice quality

    With the time they loses that "humidity" and becomes dry and solid, so i suggest all you owners of a PS3 fat if at some time you open it for a manteinance you should buy new thermal pads and replace them
    Take a look at aliexpress, dealextreme, ebay, etc... there are sales of a "sheet" (a single thermal pad in big size, like a DINA4 paper, and you need to cut it with scissors), you can choose the thickness of it to fit with the original thermal pads shipped from factory by sony
    Or incase you need to use thermal pads in different places (with different thickness) you can stack several pads to fit the gap with the metal shield

    Also, if you do this... be creative and add some thermal pads in other places not used in factory, the first that cames to mind is on top of the wifi/bt module... there seems to be lot of people reporting failures in it and im not sure if some of them are caused by overheatings... a thermal pad on top of the wifi/bt module should prevent this failure

    The only thing you need to worry and keep in mind at all times when you are looking at the motherboard/shield and thinking where to add "custom" thermal pads is the metal shields (that covers the motherboard as a sandwich) are designed to allow small airflows to flow inside the "sandwich"
    This is why the metal shields have some "holes" in specific places, and the metal have some "bumps" that works like "tunnels" to have an small control at how the air moves inside that "sandwich"

    The point is... whatever you do when adding thermal pads.... you need to avoid creating some "barriers" that could block some of that "air tunnels"
    As example... you should never add a long pad, or several pads aligned because thats like a wall
     

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