PS3 CECHA00 60gb PS3 Shuts off in only one game, YLOD style.

Discussion in 'Hardware Mods' started by SeanRanklin, Sep 26, 2018.

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    Vishera

    Vishera Member

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    So it looks like an aging capacitor about to meet it's end...
    Good thing we are getting to the bottom of it :D
    Thanks for Fanhais for being the first to bring the NEC TOKIN up.

    It usually happens 5-30 minutes into the gameplay.
    It might happen in a different game,it happens to me with Gran Turismo 5 and 6.
     
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    Vishera

    Vishera Member

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    If your NEC TOKIN is totally fried then you should replace it.
    If the NEC TOKIN is still alive you can solder a Tantalum in parallel.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Well good thing its the NECs even these kids beat the crap out of this 60Gb.

    I have to start it like 6/15 times just to get it to XMB, and even so, shutodown its imminent, tested with 2 PS2 games, GT4 and NFSU2, so thats shorts the probability to be the GPU, so the NECs are 50/50% working, now i dont know if i solder them in parallel or remove them, as soldering isnt my high regarding skill :P
     
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    Vishera

    Vishera Member

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    A dying GPU will most likely display artifacts under heavy load,The last of Us,Red dead redemption and Beyond:Two Souls are good for stressing the whole console.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Yeah i know that mate, thanks for the heads up, even on the XMB a failing GPU its enough for showing artifacts, my unit isnt showing anything, so its all good, except for the NECs :D
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Ah, thats the Japanese 20gb? These things came out exactly when my CECHA did, so i dont see why there should be an issue of the boards causing the shutdown. Leaning towards a failed component. Thanks for weighing in.
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Hang on here.. from what I am reading regarding Naked Snakes' problem here is that the faulty Nec Tokins cause way more erratic behaviour in shutdowns, typically when the unit is still cold. My unit can already be at optimum temp and the unit still shuts down. Always in an actual match and never anywhere else. It must be something to do with resources needed to power the game play that it fails on.

    Is there a COD 2 or Uncharted demo on the PSN store or something? I'd really like to test these games out and see if i get the classic shutdown, or whether its literally just TAG2 causing this.
     
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    Fanhais

    Fanhais Member

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    direct solder on Nec in parallel but you need to do some ground or link an wire on negative point of capacitor and solder some zone was ground on the board i show you this picture from internet to try explain what i did
     

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    NEC TOKINs can shutdown even when the temperature of the machine its at a hot state, it happend me before on the old TOSHIBA laptop (most common brand with these problems), the 1st time it only worked when at a warm operational state, after some months of use, it would shutdown, even at the extra hot operation temperature, which its what i suspect happend to this 60Gb, and the kids who i got it from tortured it with COD in blazing summer, and let me share a little secret with your lads, summer in Portugal its like living under a grill, its blazing hot :D
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Ahhh i see you soldered them with jumpers, a little easier, but ive seen lads soldering them side by side with the NECs including the Grounding points on the MOBO, which its on the middle of the NECs
     
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    Fanhais

    Fanhais Member

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    TRY this way and solder 4 tantalus on gpu side from the top of motherboard and test if works fine if not well put in cell side but should work with for on rsx side, you have two NECs on top and you will put 4 Tantalus in parallel like image from the picture
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Thanks mate, ill try with the bypass wire like you did,only a shorter lenght, not to do a mess, or solder directly to the NECs and GRD points on the RSX and CELL (just for precautions),still have to order a few, what Tantalum specs you used btw!?
     
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    Fanhais

    Fanhais Member

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    i use 470 uf but i think for 330 uf can do the job,
    solder on this marks the pole positive on the board

    and the tantalum the marks are red Positive and blue negative/ground
     

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    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
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    Vishera

    Vishera Member

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    Just to make sure,Can i use what i marked in red as ground?
    They aren't connected to any trace or component as far as i look at it :D
    COK-002_-_1-873-513-31.png
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Nop, the grounds are the solders at the center of the tokins, look at the datasheet i posted to see how are the solder (lines) under the tokins
    Btw snake take a look at the link i posted from a brazilian forum, they have a good gallery of images you can see how other people did it
    Also, i have not tryed to translate it but there are some talks about all this
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Don't worry mate, i understand perfect Portuguese, so Brazilian Portuguese isn't an issue, thanks for the schematics :D

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Before starting soldering post here what you are planning to do, everytime i see one of that photos it cames to mind some ideas to simplify it a bit more XD

    Im not going to mention every small idea i had when looking at the photos, because there are different ways to do it and could be confusing, but there is something i imagined that is worthy to be mentioned because is the easyest way by far

    Lets use this photo as example...
    [​IMG]
    Note every tokin have 8 solder points around (that belongs to 4 lines that crosses the tokin side by side)

    The idea is to buy a replacement tokin exactly like the original... then place it on top of the original (damaged) tokin... but displaced 2 or 3 milimeters to a side

    And in that position... use the solder iron to create 4 "columns" of tin... from the new tokin to the motherboard
    No wires, no need to scratch or shit... are just 4 solders balls (well, actually not "balls" but "columns")

    If i remember right this technique is named "piggy backing"... consists in placing a component on top of another one and soldering both together
    It should work unless the damaged tokin is in shorcut (if is in shorcut you need to remove it, of course, but removing it is a pita)... but if the damaged tokin is in shorcut the PS3 should not boot at all... so this is not the case
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I made a drawing to show you the idea, because a picture worths hundred words :)

    Before:
    [​IMG]
    After:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
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    Vishera

    Vishera Member

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    How about puting a capacitor on every red+blue?:
    COK-002_-_1-873-513-31.png

    Will it work?
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yes, it should work, thats the basic but can be simplifyed a lot

    The first thing you need to keep in mind at all times is the grounds are common, so you can use a single wire for all the circles you painted in blue
    So 8 wires + 1 = 9 solders to the motherboard in total

    But it can be simplifyed even more... this is hard to explain and to understand it well is needed to take a look at how every tokin is connected "together" with other tokin at his side "in pairs", so are in paralell in groups of 2
    This means... from the point of view of electrical connections we can consider every pair of tokins as a single component
    It becomes a bit more confusing because the fact every tokin contains 2 capacitors... so every "pair" of tokins are 4 capacitors connected together, lol

    I guess i need to make another drawing to explain this :D
     

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