PS3 Delit Super Slim CELL ?

Discussion in 'Hardware Mods' started by Estox, Sep 19, 2019.

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    Estox

    Estox Forum Noob

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    I delited many ps3's up up now, all without trouble both rsx and cell. You all know it is essential or you WILL run in to YLOD with EVERY ps3 model, so because im a collector i want them for a long time working ;)

    But now I got my first super slim 400x for my collection. I tried to delit the CPU. besides the spots around the IHS glue like on late slim models, that makes cutting much harder than on fat models where it takes seconds, it was cutted fine. the cell where cutted completly, but the die was completle melted onto the ihs. I tried to lift it and the hol cpu brokes out of the board.

    So now my question, are there a few models that got a soldered ihs like on AMD PC CPU? I mean the die brokes completly out and sticks on the ihs. After everything was destroyed ether I decided to try to get the die of the ihs but nothing. not even with a hammer has it possibe to become it free.

    So are there super slim cpus that are soldered? Anybody sucsessfully delited a super slim?

    My idea was to fill up the cell with isoprop alcohol BEFOR cutting the glue, so it fills up with isoprop and dissolve the stoned thermalcompound. All ps3 cells got this tiny hole at the front where most place there cutter to begin delitting, there I would try to fill in the isoprop. Would this be a good idea? I always clean old cpus with isoprop cause it makes the harded thik old past nearly liquid and easy to wipe. So my idea ias to soak it in to isoprop that the old dried and nearly stoned paste suck it up and get soft again.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2019
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    Cypher_CG89

    Cypher_CG89 Senior Member

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    Yes the CELL - IHS on SuperSlims are soldered together so you cannot remove it, also makes for a bit better heat disapation, and the RSX has no IHS.

    NOT every PS3 ...... Superslims will not suffer YLOD like other model PS3's as they use Tantelum Caps on the CELL and RSX not crappy NEC Tokken caps.

    Superslims are the tanks of the PS3 family. Mine has suffered years and years of hard abuse in gaming from brand new with only one thermal paste replacement since they were first launched ( a CECH4003A ) which is when I bought it and still runs like brand new, never had one issue with it... well other than me not reconnecting the BT antenne properly making me think it was busted when it wasn't lol......
     
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    Estox

    Estox Forum Noob

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    Thx for your reply man. Okay this explains why I broke my hole CELL out of the board while try to lift the IHS from the Chip. I thought I just got one with tromendous harded paste. mhmh okay for my next slim i will only aply new paste ON the IHS not try to delit it again xD

    But It's yet a bit shitty that you are not able to remove it to aply new paste, that kind of anoys me to know that it is not possible changed. got me always a bad feeling xD I aplied over all new paste on my CECHB and it got in game with 31% Fan speed, room temp of 23°C a CELL Temp round about 65°C at MAX. MY CECHL model with same procedure of past swapping reaches with same setting ingame a max of 63°C in MAX. My slim (20xx) model got nearly the same, in same games tiny bit lower. The super slim SHOULD be a nice amount cooler than this so I hope it is ;)
     
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    DoublesAdvocate

    DoublesAdvocate Member

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    I did have a superslim with an IHS that wasn't soldered but it was still using a thermal adhesive and cracked the die when it eventually came off. There's really no point in deliding the superslim anyway since its cooled very well. (I did it out of curiosity as it was a model with the 28nm GPU and I was trying to confirm that the CELL also never got another die shrink.) soldered CPUs receive little to no benefit from even liquid metal application so I really have no idea why you would want to delid them anyway given that if you use anything but liquid metal TIM your temps will go UP not down and even when they do go down its usually between 2-4°C (worthless). I also have an original CECH-4001 that I opened up recently which after 3000H the original TIM was still wet, I've opened original CECHA/E's with the same amount of usage or less and the paste was bone dry. The superslim cooling really doesn't need to be modified to avoid the YLOD boogieman. Here are some pics of the CECH-4301 I delided for anyone curious, I'll upload more pics of it on PSdev wiki once I get an account made there.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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    wrx884

    wrx884 Member

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    The super slims will be due for a change in the next year or so i reckon, pretty much sonys thermal paste only had a 5 year shelf life at best even if they didnt run many hours they went dry just on that alone, so u'll find super slims wont be far off.

    Saying that i actually haven't seen many people actually delid a 3k slim or super slim that used the thermal adhesive on the CPU, more so because they were afraid to damage the die from the CPU's chip. but remember these consoles had hardly any use so the thermal adhesive has been at its peak strength so they will come off a lot easier as they age more with use.
     
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    Estox

    Estox Forum Noob

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    Thx for this detailed answer, great! Okay so they use you could say the kind of glue that can be found on the RAM chips from older RSX Models? these are also hard to get rid of sometimes.
    Yeah I also broke out the hole DIE completly brakes the CELL chip in hundrets of pieces. Even when you buy a Sony console brand new the past they use is cheap china trash.

    I bought my slim ps4 model brand new and changed the thermal paste day one and replaced the trash thermal paste with high performance "thermal grizzly" paste and got 7°C lower without modifing the Fan adjustment. (it is OFW) And in God of War 2018 my machine does not go Boing 747 within Map anymore xDD.

    There is not only a problem with the age of past but also day one with the quality so this will increase the problems within years. Made the same with my never opend (since now) CECHB PS3 model bought some days ago and it goes down with slightly higher fan speed nearly 20°C thats tremendous from idling ~81°C to ~62°C.

    I guess the slims paste will get same fate some days. like wrx884 said, the super slims are much newer and less used. I see many YLOD Ps3 super slims on german ebay, so I guess overheating is also here. I bought one of them, fixed it with reflow, the fans where intact and clean so there must be a thermal past problem aswell.

    Do you got any tip how it is possible to delit it eather even if it is not super necessary. is this thermal adhisiv in some kind soluble with alcohol?
     
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    DoublesAdvocate

    DoublesAdvocate Member

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    No, I'm not saying its the same as the ones found on previous RSX chips. Just that is uses a paste that comes dry from the factory, the advantage of pastes like this is that although they don't have a high thermal conductivity they also almost never degrade.

    I'm going to call BS on that claim that your temps dropped to a consistent 62°C, its no secret that better thermal paste will decrease the rate at which the temperature climbs but it will always reach 70-80°C if you actually leave the console on for an hour or more with the fan profile on its default curve or even a solid 40%.
    If you have evidence to disagree with this please record your screen for 2 hours of you letting the console sit in game with the FAN at 40%. (and no you cant use a PS2 game)

    I don't believe your claim that you found a superslim with a YLOD either as I was unable to find a single superslim on both American and German ebay when searching for "YLOD", even when looking in the completed listings. You can certainly find broken superslims but I have never seen any console other than the fats and the original 20XX slims with an actual YLOD error.

    No I don't have any suggestions as to how you might remove the IHS of the final CELL revisions but as I stated earlier there is essentially no reward for removing it successfully anyway. If you try to remove it you're likely just going to break another console. Even if you do buy one unless you're willing to x-ray it there's no way to tell if the CPU is one of the ones that's soldered or one like mine that still uses thermal adhesive.
     

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