PS3 Ideal temps for CECH-A00?

Discussion in 'General PS3 Discussion' started by SeanRanklin, Nov 12, 2018.

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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    I have standard fan speed of 28% in webman. Temps on xmb usually:

    CELL 63
    RSX 55

    Dynamic fan control set at 67degrees Celsius
    Usually does a pretty good job of never reaching that, or if it does, it cools right down back to 65-67. Fan speed never above 34% when dynamic kicks in

    However I played uncharted last night for the first time on the unit and the unit reached 40-45% fan speed while dynamic control did not allow the temp past 68. But the unit was very loud.

    I am wondering if this is normal and not a cause for concern when playing graphically intensive games? I felt really scared to continue playing longer than an hour and don’t even want to return back to the game anymore lol. To be fair the temperature was hot yesterday, about 27degrees Celsius in the room, so I’m not sure if this contributed to it. Will try again on a cooler day.

    What is your ideal temp?
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Well from my experience, i would say staying on both below 65º its a the sweet spot. My new CECH-C04 stays below 60º on both, even during PS3 games, usually hovering 52º CELL and 57º RSX at 33% fan speed, i would never advise leaving a 60Gb at 28% fan speed, as thats mainly stock from the time it powers to the pre-heat, thats the reason for most 60Gb dying as the GPU fries, due to Sonys Syscon adjusts the fan to not cook itself to death, but being low audible as possible, but thats a big issue, thats why i see many 60s hovering on 80ºs on both the CELL and RSX, which its a big NO..NO.

    But the main concern here its the RSX, as its based a 7800GTX, its not heat tolerance friendly, so if the RSX stays below 60ºs thats excellent, the CELL as it was designed mainly for server applications, it has a bigger heat tolerance, like Intel Xeon CPUs, but that dont mean they have to fry themselfs to the 80ºs threshold.

    Assuming you have a NTSC-J CECHA00, its running the 1st COK-001 board revision, paired with the 1st batch of RSX/CELL, plus you have the EE+GS to worry ,but as the PS2 Hardware its running less than 15W, since it uses the EE/GS from a 75000 Series PlayStation2 Slim, thats not a big factory issue here.

    First what i would do, its replace that crappy ZSSR5391A (399W) Power Supply with a APS-227 (399W) or a APS-231 (282W), as the PS3 doesn´t need that much power, so an APS-231 its the perfect deal, although people reported some instabilities with the COK-001 Board (CECHA/CECHB), although i can confirm it works on a CECHC flawlessly (Green Peace thanks you).

    Second on what i would do, its to replace the crappy thermal paste on the IHS on both CELL and RSX, i recommend using Arctic Silver MX-4, as many people use, cheap and good quality, and delid the RSX, clean the grey thermal adhesive from the RSX Video Memory, and put a pea size on the die, and on the IHS (friendly advice, although ive been using the card method for far too long on thermal paste applications, i tell you this, dont use the card method, it will only create uneven surfaces, and air bubbles, and improper contact with the heatsink, i had better results with the pea method than on the card technique), align the RSX IHS with the chip and be carefull when attaching the heatsink, as since you remove the adhesive from the Video Chips the RSX IHS tends to slide with the Thermal Paste, if you don´t hold the board properly, i would worry deliding the CELL or the North Bridge, as these two are 100% risky, and can do more harm than good (if you never delided these before), and give the console a good deep cleaning, being 99.98% dust-free.

    Third and final, set the Webman Fan Speed to a constant speed between proper cooling, experiment with different sppeds, and find the perfect balance between a cool machine and tolerable noise levels. Usually the best thresholds for proper cooling and noise levels, are between 33-37%, above 40% its only necessary if you feel that the machine isnt cooling itself properly.

    (One more thing, if your PS3 decides to go full-speed when you turn it on and shutdown, check the RSX again, ive learned the hard-way when i didn´t clean the adhesive on the RSX and instead applied glue on top, lifting the IHS and not having contact with the RSX die, getting it to a brutal 91º Celsius by even turning it on, and as a punishment,ive spent 4h getting rid on the super-glue and the adhesive, so no harm done) :D
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Can I just say; I really enjoy reading your detailed posts! =D Anyway, long, poorly structured reply coming up...

    I would agree with you on the ideal temp being around 65, as my CPU seems to hover around here with 28% fan speed in low end graphic games. Only does it creep higher with games like Uncharted, and thats where my dynamic fan control, which is set at 67, kicks in and never lets it reach over that amount. Webman dynamic is truly an amazing homebrew and i would say, totally essential for all fatty owners.

    Why would you say that you would never leave base speed at 28%? Initially, i had it at 30, but it was a little too loud for my liking. Why would it matter anyway? Doesn't dynamic fan control do most of the work in the sense of not letting the unit fry itself? Please clarify. You mention to set webman to 33-37% but this is already way too loud for me, and my systems only reach these fan speeds when i'm playing uncharted.

    Also, with regards to the power supply, why do you recommend changing ZSSR5391A (399W) Power Supply with a APS-227 (399W) if they are both the same wattage? What difference would this make if they output both the same total wattage?

    In terms of the thermal paste, its always the first thing i do as soon as i pick up one of these things. But i am not game enough to do the paste under the IHS. I am too nervous that i'll break the chip and ruin the unit. I always do above the HS with Arctic silver 5 - pea shape method. Seems to work well as i notice a lot of warm air coming out of the back of the unit which is supposed to be a sign that it is working.

    So overall, i guess what i would like to know, is there any harm to my unit when webman kicks speeds up to 40% at certain times only while playing uncharted on a hot day, despite temps staying both under 67?
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    My apologies for not mention in my previous post, why the ZSSR5391A Power Supply found on the CECHA/B, its faulty and should be replaced for the greater good, and to answer your question, why the ZSSR5391A and the APS-227 has the same rating, but the APS-227 doesn´t even get hot, which i shall answer your question.

    First off lets begin with the basics, the ZSSR5391A as mentioned previously, was one of the first batch of PlayStation3 (CECHA/CECHB), if you dont count the ZSSR541iB found on a DECR-1000A/J.

    The ZSSR5391A has a rating of 399W, which its the same as an APS-227, but here its the catch, while an APS-227 draws 2.2 Amps into the PS3 board, the ZSSR5391A draws and abysmal 6.0 Amps.

    I get it why Sony would rate the first ZSSR5391A at 6.0 Amps, to make sure that there are no instabilities in the system, due to the CECHA/B having the Emotion Engine + Graphics Synthesizer to work with, but the truth is, Sony rated it wrong, the COK-001 boards never need 6.0 Amps, thus the unused current goes wasted, thus generating heat, creating a chain reaction, which i think pretty much wraps your question.

    Now to the final verdict, should you change the Power Supply to an APS-226/227 or APS-231, in short answer yes, but now which one!?

    Lets dig even deeper, starting of with the APS-226 found in the NTSC-U CECHE (80Gb/BC) PS3, which has the same rating as the ZSSR5351A, but draws 4.8-2.0 Amps, which its great, but we can improve that a bit, following with the APS-227 found on the CECHC PAL (60Gb) PS3, which again has the same rating as both APS-226/ZSSR5391A, but again, this time the current drawn from the PSU its changed to 2.2 Amps all the time.

    Now for the final contestant the APS-231, found on the CECHG Models (40Gb), which has a rating of 282W, 117W less than the 3 previous models mentioned (ZSSR and APS), and drawing 3.5-1.5 Amps from the PSU, which its even better than the APS-227 in terms of Wattage and Amps drawn.

    Final conclusion, which Power Supply Model will suit your PlayStation3 Model.

    *If you own a CECHA/B (20/60Gb) launch models with the COK-001 board, chances are you have a ZSSR5391A Power Supply, change it with a APS-227 found in a CECHE (80Gb/BC).

    *If you own a CECHC/E (60Gb/80Gb) launch PAL model or MGS4 Bundle with a COK-002/002W board, chances are you have an APS-226(NTSC)/227(PAL), you can change it to an APS-231 Power Supply, found in a CECHG (40Gb), but its not mandatory, as these Power Supplies are not Amp hungry like the ZSSR5391A, so no harm will be done, but if you decide it to change it, it will run with less Wattage and your Power Bill will be lower, and Green Peace will thank you.

    Q&A Time:

    Q - Can i change an APS-231 Power Supply if i own a CECHA or a CECHB model?

    A - Yes, if you own a CECHA or CECHB Model, and wish to run the PS3 with a lower electicity bill, then yes, swap it with the APS-231, but be warned, some people reported instability with more demanding content, probably like mentioned before, having the Emotion Engine+Graphics Synthsizer, and the first batch of the RSX and CELL (although the CECHA and CECHC both have 90Nm RSX/CELL, they change theyre power draw with each revison, plus the CECHC gets rid of the EE CPU and EDO RAM).

    Side Note - Some CECHA/B Models have been spotted them having APS-226 Power Supply, straight from the factory, which its more likely to be the refurbished units, that Sony were replacing them durring the YLOD fiasco in mid 2007.
     
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