IS Joystick of DS3 and Sixaxis repairable?

Discussion in 'General PS3 Discussion' started by snkplkn, Aug 19, 2019.

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    snkplkn

    snkplkn Member

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    I have a Old Sixaxis controller whose Left stick is failing.

    Normally Both Sticks on PS3 controller are in straight upright position. When you move stick to any direction and leave it, the stick get back to straight upright position. My left stick continues to bend slightly upwards. As a result my gameplay movement automatically drifts in upward direction.

    Like in Call of Duty, my when i am moving forward and suddenly wanna stop by releasing the Left stick, but my player will continue to drift forward slowly. Only when i forcefully put my stick to center, then player movement will stop.

    Is this fixable? As far as i know, these sticks are like welded on Sixaxis/DS3 PCB and these cannot be separated or opened up.
     
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    yes it is repairable. when i do it i first try soaking the analogs in isopropyl and leave it to dry. when this not help then you must replace the analogs. there is no another option. you can buy the analogs on ebay or aliexpress. but changing involves soldering skills.
     
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    Cypher_CG89

    Cypher_CG89 Senior Member

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    I started to get this on one of my DS3's, it started to drift to the left badly so I open it up and sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the analog, let it dry and its OK for now.
     
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    snkplkn

    snkplkn Member

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    Replace the analogs? How?
     
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    snkplkn

    snkplkn Member

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    ok. The link doesn't work. But i get the idea. I guess i need to find a Dead DS3 to salvage functional sticks.

    Edit - Will WD 40 work on these sticks? If i take out the plastic cap and spray some WD40.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    Is better when you buy new. just search for dualshock 3 analog stick.
    wd40 is oil not cleaner. dont do that
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Well... you know the stick that always gets damaged first is the left... and when that happens the right stick uses to be fine (because right stick have less work)

    So you can take 2 dualshock 3 with the left stick damaged... and then desolder the right stick from one of them and solder it in the other dualshock 3
    This way you have a dualshock 3 with 2 good sticks (and another dualshock 3 with 2 damaged sticks, for parts)
    If you have a lot of dualshocks 3's (i have a bag with tenths of DS1 and DS2)... yeah... do it

    But if you have only 1 or 2 dualshocks 3 is better to buy new sticks... because the feeling of the new sticks is going to be great, it worths the effort to do this repair well :)


    -----------
    The tricky part to replace the DS3 sticks is when you try to desolder the old ones, i really, really, really suggest you to get a "tin sucker pump" to remove the tin from the solder holes... without it is imposible and you are going to break the pins
    As an alternative, you can use "desoldering wick" to empty the holes... but the sucker pump is a lot better

    Another huge annoyance is the sticks "body" (the cube made of metal) have 4 "legs" in the corners that are bend and soldered
    Is extremelly tricky to desolder that "legs" because you need to bend them (to make them straight) at the same time the tin is liquid
    This is hard to explain, but be very careful with this... most probably you are going to scratch the circuit borard and damage it a bit (always happens, i dont know any way to desolder that shit in a harmless way)


    ----------------------------
    AND DONT USE PETROL BASED LUBES ON PLASTIC DUDES !!!
    The mobile parts inside the "metal body" of the stick are made of plastic... the ideal lube for them is solid vaseline (you can buy in a drugstore)
    This vaseline is used in babies because is chemically "neutral" (it doesnt attacks the plastics)

    Also... remember to clean veeeeeeeeery well the old lube before applying the new one... specially in the "joint points" of the mobile parts
    In my experience, what uses to happen is the factory lube cummulates in the joint points + the cummulation of dust, shit etc.. that makes to change his color to a black substance
    That black susbstance doesnt acts like a lube anymore... is mostly the opposite, is like a glue that doesnt allows the stick to return to the vertical position

    *And last note... the damage happens ALWAYS at the white piece at bottom of the stick... and the plastic "base" of the stick "body"... the reason is because are rubbing against the other (and the white piece loses the battle always... but eventually the base gets a bit damaged by the white piece in revenge)
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    inspiration. i have done there ps button led mod so dont look at this.
     

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Hehe, nice one, but there are some details you have not explained, where you get that led ?, is not standard, and i guess you soldered a pin to ground under it... you just found a ground line conveniently located around the center of the board, right ?... i was confused for a minute i thought the led was the white plastic square in the center (but thats the connector of the acceleromenter/gyroscope, right?)

    And you made other mods to the plastic pieces ?... because on top of your led goes the white plastic "frame" that works as the surface where you press buttons

    Also, the PS button have a rubber under it (usually in black and opaque)... what you did with tha rubber, nothing ?... so the light goes to the PS button from the sides or doing some random bouncings inside the DS3 body ?
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    This is sixaxis the ps button is prepared for LED you must not cut anything. There is place for LED prepared but is not used there are mising component for that. And I have measured and there is not switched power for that LED on MCU. So it is not used by Sony itself.on dualshock3 yeah you must modified plastic for ps button to lit with LED.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I realized is the sisaxis after i wrote my previous post, when looking at psdevwiki :)
    What i could not remember is if the sisaxis had that "holes" in the plastic parts ready under the PS button to allow to pass the light throught them, but now you have confirmed, then yeah is a easy mod

    In the other DS3 models (without the holes) is a lot more tricky because is needed to cut some plastic/rubber pieces... or either is needed to place the led inside the rubber (inmedatly next to the spheric transparent PS button, almost touching it)

    Btw, in your case with the sisaxis would be better to solder the led directly in the board... there are pads for it labeled LED5... one of them is ground for sure (switched by a transistor probably)... this is the part missing
    And the other is connected to a resistor (to control the light intensity), and permanently to a voltage line
    So... dunno, but you could make use of the voltage line and the resistor from that part of the circuit

    *Btw, personally i would increase the value of that resistor to decrease the led intensity


    -------------
    You made me thought in a variation of that mod btw... the idea is to use a transistor to light the led only for the short time when the PS button is pressed
    You know... the PS2 button have a voltage line enabled permanently (even when the DS3 is powered off, there is a voltage in the PS button)

    When you press the PS button... you are "redirecting" that voltage to the toshiba controller (to wake up all the circuits and components of the board)
    The idea is to use that signal to control a transistor that drives the led ground

    So...
    You press PS ---> the transistor closes the circuit of the led (led on)
    You release PS ---> the transistor opens the circuit of the led (led off)
     
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    Yes sixaxis has the holes already you dont have to cut nothing. DS3 has no holej so you must cut.the brightnes is ok.its only high on photo. Yes there are solderpads prepared for LED.But and is it a big But. There is pozsitive power all the time. And negative power is switches by MCU but that is no working its dissassembed in firmware i guess because its not working. And there is no switched negative on board so its usseles.on board is only pozsitive switched. So is better to do is as i have it done.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Look at this photo (in the sisaxis is pretty much the same as far i remember, i cant confirm it right now, im just rushing a bit)
    [​IMG]

    The orange pin named 2.8v standby have a voltage enabled permanently (even with the DS3 turned off), it comes from the battery cell
    And the other orange pin named PS is the same voltage 2.8v... but is only enabled when you press PS button

    If you follow that orange PS line in the connector of the circuit board you can follow the copper trace and eventually it should have a decent solder point where you can solder a wire
    And that wire should go to the "base" pin of the custom transistor i was mentioning :)
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    yes, all the leds in the PS3 and DS3 are "switched" (by a transistor) connected to the ground of the LED
    And the positive side of the led is connected permanently to a voltage line (with a resistor in between to control light intensity)

    What im suggesting is prety much the same concept... the difference is the transistor im suggesting to use should be added externally (but im pretty sure the circuit board have solder pads for it)
    So... you can solder led + resistor + transistor in the circuit board... because the circuit probably is ready for it

    The mod im suggesting consist in "faking" the signal that drives that transistor
    Originally the circuit was designed with the toshiba chip sending the "ON" signal to the "base" pin of the transistor (led = on)
    And what im saying is to replace that "ON" signal by the 2.8v of the PS button (so led = on, but only when you press PS button)

    Im pretty sure it should work... and can be made with only 1 wire + the components missing in the circuit (the led, his resistor, and his transistor) :)
     
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    yes this is corect but is it positive (+) its there full time (constant) and the Ps is positive switched only when you pres the ps button. for led you can not use that as on board there is not swiched negatitive (-). if you will use that (+) you need negative (-) switched so that led lit only when the sixaxis is on. and on board is no such thing. on sixaxis board there is only switched (+) and constant (-). look at the picture.
    on sixaxis there is no switching transistor. and fake it or reverse the polarity is more to do . what i have done is simpler and faster and cost free.
     

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Ok, it took me more time than i expected, but i made a drawing that i hope explains what i was suggesting
    [​IMG]
    The original circuit is designed to work like that... the "only" thing im doing is to change who is the responsable of switching the transistor :)

    That switching is made by sending an small voltage to the transistor "base" pin, so in some way is "reverting the polarity" as you mentioned. In this case you send a voltage to the transistor... and the transistor connects the led to ground

    Also, im suggesting to cut the line in between the toshiba controller and the transistor, because i thought it was the toshiba who was switching it... but in your last post you said is the bt module who controls the transistor
    Anyway, is the same concept... is better to cut that line because we dont want to send our "fake" signal (from the PS button) back to other components
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    But your circuit Will lit the led only when you pusu down the ps button. When you release it it will stop. My solution will lit the led when the controller Will turn on and stop when the controller is turned off.
    I think my solution is better.

    And yes originál circuit Will turn the led on the bt module.but between module and led there is no transistor.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Well, then this is a matter of preferences i guess :) ... im not much into RGB madness, i like some led mods but only if are not excesive, i think small details are more "elegant" than something visually shocking :) this is why i would use a resistor with a big value, to decrease the light intensity
    Also think you are going to have that led aiming to your face while using it... i guess in a play session in darkenss could be an annoyance
    And... having the led ON all the time is going to make the battery to dischargue faster (maybe not notable, but is a fact)
    Hmmm, oki, maybe is because it was designed to have a transistor inside the bt module... is hard to know for me without being able to check the circuit board entirelly and try to imagine which components are missing and how it was working

    Some of that "unpopulated" parts of he circuit are the rests of the pre-retail dualshock3, they had a red led for the PS button
    And you have a "service connector" in a side of the board, it was used to reprogram the bt module or the toshiba controller (i dont remember right now, but is a bit unknown, we cant make much with it as far i remember)
     
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    As i said its so brightnes only on photo.;-)
     

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