PS3 Most reliable Fat PS3?

Discussion in 'General PS3 Discussion' started by Falco1211, Feb 16, 2020.

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    Falco1211

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    Hey guys, so I own a CECHP01 PS3, i was searching around some forums and read that the worst model of all is the CECHH model ( I owned two of them and both had bad NEC Tokins and a dying gpu) so what's the most reliable model? Mine is the one before the last model (CECHQ) but they're exactly the same, so?
     
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    pinky

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    might be a question for @sandungas . is there a reason you want a phat model? I have a 2500 system myself.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    Most reliable Phat PS3, CECHA/B/C/E and G, the other ones are just cheaped out in quality, specially in the cooling department, thats all i can say, ive seen more H/K/L and Ps failing than OGs ones, with $ony's policy, the earliest batch are the most high quality built, while the rest is just cheap on parts and build quality, just my opinion, take it or contradict it, you're always welcome to share your thoughts.

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Personally i always thought having 4 "hotspots" in the motherboard (CELL, RSX, GS/EE, and SB) was a very bad idea
    And another big hotspot in the PSU
    The other PS3 FATS motherboards after they dropped the PS2 hardware support was mostly a transition to the PS3 slims, also i dont like the shell of the PS3 FATS
    So is hard to me to decide which PS3 FAT model is the best because i dont like any of them, lol
     
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    Squiglemouse

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    Does the southbridge on the fat get that hot? Surely if it did wouldn't sony have placed more than a thermal pad on top?
     
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    Cypher_CG89

    Cypher_CG89 Senior Member

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    Most reliable...?

    Every PS3 is reliable, what makes them not reliable is how people look after them, obviously you cannot help it if you get something that has a defect from the factory (even this cannot be 100% avoided) but depending on how you look after it and use it will greatly affect how "reliable" it is.

    Examples ( Not Phats, but to give the idea )

    Eg one of my CECH2003A's that I bought on launch day, the other I bought second hand, is running 100% OK, never had one issue with it and it is now pushing over 14,049 hours of abuse and gaming over the years. Also this has been hacked since it was a thing, never let me down. Even the OG 120GB HDD is still fine and has been used in laptops, PCs and is currently in my CECH4003A.

    My CECH4003A that I bought on launch day of them is the same, runs 100% with no issues and has over 9,093‬ hours of abuse and gameplay.

    My CECHA00 form japan is not worth mentioning yet as when I bought it it only has about 10 hours of use and everything is still brand new, but it works 100% fine still so you could say the OG owner of it well looked after this PS3 and did not just stuff it in some dusty, damp place all these years.

    This goes for anything really I have consoles from all sorts of generations that work 100% > Atari2600 etc and this is because they were well looked after.
     
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    Falco1211

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    I simply love them, I also own a 2511A 160GB
     
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    Falco1211

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    I don't see how that makes sense, sure they have a pretty good build quality, but these ones have a high failure rate due to high power draw and design flaws, that concave heatsink tho, it just had a lot of hardware for such a small space, also the og models are a lot older ( they have 2 more years of wear and tear compared to my P01 for instance) I just think that the later models tried to fix the overheating and just general issues with older models.
     
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    pinky

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    @Cypher_CG89 , yeah, Japanese people really know how to take care of their consoles. I bought a ds in Akihabara about 12 years ago, and it's never given me any problems. it was a used blue one, but it still looked brand new.
     
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    Cypher_CG89

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    I'll sell you my CECHA00 for £350......:rolleyes:o_O More or less brand new, Controller is brand new, all cables are brand new, box is undamaged, everything is in its OG packaging, less than 10 hours of usage which is proveable... only joking I would never sell this PS3.

    Yeah they do. I got the CECHA00 from Tokyo. As you can see from above I paid a hefty price, £350, for it but was well worth it fro this PS3 so in dollars for people in the US I would have paid around $456 for it.
     
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    I have a Japanese gba and ps4 as well. both are in very good condition. :D I recently bought a new gba to replace the Japanese one, because the original gba has no back lighting.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I dont know how much hot is SB, but yeah the CECHA PS3 models have 4 IHS's for a reason :D
    2 of them (CELL & RSX) transfers heat to the heatsink, and the others 2 (GS/EE & SB) to the metal shield

    In the next motherboard revision they replaced the IHS from SB by a thermal pad, since that point i think all PS3 models have a thermal pad in the SB (not sure but probably the superslims too)... just because "why not" ?... probably the modern SB revisions are very low power, but a thermal pad is cheap
     
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    Nope, irrc my CECH4003A has no thermal pads anywhere. I will check next time I open it up to clean out any dust but am sure it had none.
     
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    sandungas

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    Ok, i was thinking that there should be a point in the PS3 motherboard evolution where the southbridge should not be considered a "hotspot" anymore
    You know... if it generates something like 40º by itself then it doesnt counts as a "hotspot" because the whole motherboard probably is at that temperature
    Dunno, but i guess at that point is where they could stop using a thermal pad in it
     
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    I will double check next time I open it up but I am sure it did not or I would have replaced any when I did the thermal paste on it last year, I know my Slims do have a few thermal pads on them.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    The early ones don't have a design flaw, $ony isn't known as the manufacturer to design terrible products, i don't know where that idea came from, the only design flaw i can relate is mostly Software controled Fan Profile, which keeps the machine cool, although prioritise quite noise over cool temperatures, which can decrease the life-span of some components, but that isn't a big issue, but it is an issue if the machine is rammed with dust and debris.

    All the PS3s that are dead, i assure you they are rammed with dust inside, and no maintenance was made during the life-span of the machine, then they blame $ony for it, without knowing that the fault is in the user to begin with, people still have they're launch units still working till this day, but the secret sauce behind it is maintenence and keep it clean and well looked after, there is no mumbo jumbo tricks behind it.

    Regarding the Concave Heatsinks, ive heard of that silly myth multiple times, and let me tell you a little secret, they aren't even Concave, not even by a mere margin, they are perfectly flat to me, tested multiple CECHA/B/C/E Heatsinks as well as CECHH/K/Q/L/M/P heatsinks, and they are perfectly flat, even the 2000 Series are flat, this is just another myth made by someone without solid proof, it doesn't take a genius to figure it out that if you take a solid ruler and simulate the chip touching the Heatsinks, they touch it perfectly, but of course you need to apply a pressure scenario otherwise the heatsink, won't stay perfectly flat, but the gap is so tinny with the heatsink unscrewed you can barely see it, but that example someone made 5 or 6 years ago, that's just an utter exaggeration, the heatsinks are even barely concave, but again people believe in all the BS someone throws them at the platter without even questioning.

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Do you think this is a myth ?
    The "scratches" are visibles to the bare eyes in this small photo... so go imagine if we meassure with accurate equipment and at huge zoom, this is not flat at all
    [​IMG]

    And i can show you a video i posted in the forum some weeks ago where someone was meassuring it and it was very notable that (additionally to the sratches) his heatsink was concave
     
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    sandungas

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    Found another one, from a PS3 superslim... another disaster
    Can you see the lines in paralell ?... are actually scratches, if you take a look at them with a microscope are like mountain rifts and peaks
    [​IMG]


    Or this one from a FAT... here the scratches are circles
    [​IMG]
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

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    It might be a bit Concave, but is not a Concave to be concerned with, as a few exaggerated examples I saw, there must be a reason for this design, perhaps due to the pressure mount between the chips and the clamps, its the only plausible way i see it.

    As i mentioned before, ive tested multiple heatsinks from different models with a flat ruler, if none of them are applied any for of pressure, they have a tiny gap, like 0.01mm between the Heatsink and the IHS, when applied pressure, that gap is erased, my guess is that they made that gap for one reason and that's to avoid the IHS to glue it into the heatsink, and when removing it to damage the chip itself in the process, think of it as the flaw that AMD had during the Athlon era, when they're Heatsinks would rip the CPU off the PGA Grid, when you tried to remove it, at least that is my guess, but i could be wrong, at least the heatsinks are doing they're job, if they are a bit Concave or not, can't complain about that to be honest, much better cooling solution than the 360 had during launch in 2005.

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    These "scratches" are nothing but machine tool marks from the tool used to plain to surface to the exact micrometer and the "rifs and peaks" are there for one purpose only...... to give the thermal compound something to "grip" to an fill so when compressed there are no "voids" created, so these are nothing more than to make sure the compound covers the correctly... anyone who works in manufacturing will tell you this and is not a "disaster" in any way shape or form.

    The best example is in plastering... if you do not "key" the surface (make scratches and grooves for the plaster to stick to) it will not stick and cover correctly. This keying is used in many industries. Even when painting a car, the paint is not sprayed on a completely smooth surface, it is prepped with sandpaper, as if not the paint will not cover correctly.

    I have seen many people say they have smoothed the heatsinks of PS3's with wet sanding.... all I say to them people is well done dip sh!t you just [email protected] up the heatsink and what them grooves are meant to do and now you will most likely have created voids when applying the thermal compound... it's common ignorance of people who have no clue or idea in engineering and THB think they know best when in fact they don't have clue what they are going on about.

    To help control where the thermal compound goes when first applied. Put a liquid substance between two completely flat, smooth surfaces and it will go everywhere, create voids and not cover properly. Add something that will push or keep it towards the centre, like a slight curve, and it helps keep it where it's meant to be.

    No sinister plots... just basic engineering solutions that have been used for decades in many industries.
     
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