PS3 PS3 (CECH-2504B) - Shuts down after 2 seconds

Discussion in 'General PS3 Discussion' started by Naked_Snake1995, Mar 27, 2018.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    2 days ago my PlayStation3 Model CECH-2504B, decided to shut completly down after installing MagaGUNZ File Manager.

    I tried trouble shooting a few solutions.

    *Remove and Reset the CMOS
    *Remove and Reinsert the HDD
    *Turn on without the HDD

    The power supply found its a EADP-200DP without the potentiometers.

    *The PS3 didnt overheat,as i always changed the thermal paste,and always cleaned the dust (inside and out), plus, i always set the fan at 35/40% with a 50/60 degrees threshold.

    *NOR Flash Brick - No,as i never messed with the DEV Flash,and even if it was a NOR brick,it would say on,but no display,in this case it loses power.

    *The PSU its dead - well thats a possibility,but this common issue manifests in the APS-250/270 or APS-307, probably the EADP PSUs get it as well?! :/

    *It could be the main board?! - Unlikely,since the board doesnt have singns of damage or damaged MOSFETS.

    What are your solutions?! Should i try buying a new power supply and give it a shot?! or just move on and get a Super Slim (CECH-4000)?!?

    And what its your PSU recomendations,the most reliable and compatible with the 2500 Series?






    [​IMG]

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
     
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    haznpapo

    haznpapo Member

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    cpu or gpu done. 2 second shutdown is the normal issue when you get the 2 second shutdown.
    move on to the next console. sadly but true.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    When it shut down exactly ?
    It was inmediatly after starting copying files from USB---> internal hdd ?
    Your USB device was using an external power adapter when that happened ?

    ---------------
    Im thinking at the time the files starts copying... both external and internal hdd drives starts moving mechanical parts, i guess at this point the power requirements from the hdds are at max
    This is not a problem for a normally working power supply... but maybe your power supply was about to die and this "peak" killed it definitivelly
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Remember mate, it doesn't show a yellow light! it just powers on and immediately powers off, with a click like you took off the plug.

    I am not skeptical that its the CPU or the GPU, since on the 2100 and 2500 series, Sony controlled the manufacture yelds, to prevent YLOD.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yep, thats a classic when there are power problems... is like power supply is saying... "noooo way"

    When you have a shorcut in the motherboard it happens the same, the PSU refuses to turn on the PS3 to avoid damage caused by the shorcut
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    No, mate, i didn't copied anything, and i don´t use a external HDD.

    It happend when i installed the ManaGUNZ File Manager PKG and returned to XMB, it immediately shutdown.

    Another thing i forgot to mention, sometimes when i left the PS3 to install something in the past in a long time, i would found the PS3 in standy-by mode, even i didn't touched, and it wasn't programmed to shutdown on the Power-Saving mode
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Further inspection to the PSU, doesn't show any blown caps or a blown fuse, but it might be something screwed with the PSU that i cannot see by my naked eye

    Didnt test the 12V Rail with a multi-meter
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    When you say "in standy-by mode" you mean with no image on screen, fan stopped, and the led next to the ON/OFF button in red, right ?

    To be honest i dont know if there is some setting in XMB to do that... but doesnt looks normal
    Maybe this is another hint that points to the PSU

    The 12v is switched, i guess with a normal multimeter you are not going to be able to meassure it well, because is going to be "enabled" only half a second or so

    If you have the PSU opened, try to see again the capacitors on it to see if there is some bulky (about to explode)
    The only way to meassure capacitors is removing them from the board... and only posible if your multimeter meassures capacitance
    But well... you can try to replace them without meassuring them because are cheap (maybe you have something at home to recycle the caps from it XD)
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Yeah mate, when i meant Stand-By Mode,i was referring to ON/OFF Position (Red Light), ive inspected the PSU, and the Caps dont look bulky or about to wipe my house down hahahaha...

    If it was YLOD, the PS3 would give a dead giveaway, with 3 beeps, but this its more like a PSU Fail Safe, preventing the mainboard to get damaged, thats probably why Sony removed the Potentiates found on the APS series, in the EADP series

    Ill try to find a new PSU, but i dont know which one its more reliable and compatible with the 2500 Series.

    Ive heard the Super Slims have a similar issue, thats why i am more probably to get a 60Gb again, and install a fan-mod like sMan or Webman, or even a hard-mod, as the many PS3 Fats i owned, they never failed on me with a PSU Issue, except my 80Gb (Non-BC) but thats probably the MOSFETS, as it was a common issue with the CECHK.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2018
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I cant tell which one is better... if APS-270 ...or EADP-200DB
    Based on specs... the EADP-200DB is better because have a higher efficiency, and it wins also with a (non strict) rule that says "in PSU the biggest weight is the better"
    APS-270 is 384gr ...VS... EADP-200DB is 415gr
    http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply#PSU_Model_.40_SKU_compatiblity

    The fact that the APS-270 has a couple of pots that can be adjusted... i dont see this as an advantage because the way i see it is that pots are "calibrated from factory" and can only be adjusted by professionals, is not the kind of thing that can be adjusted at home with a multimeter (i know there is people that does it like this but i dont approve it)

    In a PSU with problems (or that pots bad calibrated) the power rails has "noise" and interferences and "shit" that spreads along the device... the device works but there could be some components of the PS3 mainboard that are suffering
    So instead of having a problem in the PSU... you are spreading the problem around the board... i dont like that, if the PSU has some problem is better to replace it

    Unless we are talking about ghetto repairs with used parts (such used PC parts)... then i dont have any problem in trying dirty repairs, because i dont care about the parts, if something burns im ok, no big lost
    With a PS3 i would not try to adjust the pots of a APS-270 by myself at home
    But all depends of how many PS3 do you have, and how much you valuate it, or how desperate you are XD
    If you are about to throw the PS3 to the trash bin... then yes, any frankensperiment is worthy to try

    -------------
    What you can do for a test is what i mentioned sometimes... is to use a PC ATX PSU connected to the PS3... and try to turn the PS3 ON temporally to see if it works
    If it works... you know... the problem was the other PSU... and you can buy a new one knowing your PS3 is going to work (is a safe bet... new PSU = fixed)
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2018
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Well desperate, i am not mate hahahaha, but i do have a sentimental value to my 2504B, as it served me years of purpose, and always been a champ, besides my 60Gbs and many other PS3 that failed.

    As i am mostly on PC or PS4 or even PS2 or PS1, i dont fairly touch my PS3 a lot, but i always play some old games such as GTAIV or MGS4 once in a while, but mostly PS2 Backwards Compatibility with Cobra,not perfect but better have a reliable PS3 then one giving you YLOD after Christmas hahaha....

    I am not mostly into ghetto repairs mate, sometimes i do,but its only to determine the root of the problem

    If its a big loss!? I dont think so, as PS3 in Portugal are fairly cheap, but there are still people willing to pay a premium up to 300€ for a used PS3 (which i think its mental), but there are ones fairly at a cheap price to snatch, but i wanted to keep this one, mostly because of Custom Firmware capabilities.

    Ive heard about the ATX Trick, but i never actually tried it, i might try it out, hopefully i dont burn the board hahahaha

    About the APS PSUs, i never intended to touch the pots! if its dead its dead! a PSU for me its chump change compared to a PS3 board
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Not sure what i would do if i where you, most probably i would start desoldering capacitors of the PSU... but is because i can meassure them and i guess i have some junk PC PSU somewhere to get some replacement caps (the big ones), and for the others (the small ones) i guess i have some new one
    Maybe this would take me nowhere though... but you know when you start checking capacitors first you need to desolder them from the board... and after that (even if the cap is fine) you replace it by a new one... mostly because are cheap and you have half of the work done (you already removed it, only needed to solder a new one and this is easyer than removing the old one)

    The other option is to try the ATX mod... but this is going to take you more time to prepare it that the test itself
    The test is just to see with your own eyes if it works again... 10 minutes or so to enter a game, and do some of the stuff you do normally, and thats all

    And you can also take the risk of buying a replacement PSU blindly (without being confident if the PSU is the problem)... not sure how much it costs... is a bit like a lottery

    --------------
    The other posible culprit could be the RSX... i was thinking at the time you exit a app/game RSX should change the video mode
    But you said it was not hot... so dunno... not much probable i guess

    --------------
    And managunz standalone filemanager i dont think could be the cause
    The only dangerous functions in it are the access to dev_blind (locked by default)... but in a PS3 with NOR flash like yours this is limited to a virtual partition on hdd
    You said you tryed to turn the PS3 ON without hdd and it doesnt shows any video signal or anything... so this is not the problem

    And managunz filemanager has an option to "dump flash"... but this is read access only (no write)... so this doesnt seems to be the problem either
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Well mate,ive checked a PSU, prices ranges from 10 to 30€, depending on whom its selling

    Ill try the ATX mod, just to troubleshot, to see if its the PSU, and not the mainboard
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    The ATX mod is something like this
    https://www.elotrolado.net/hilo_conectar-fuente-atx-en-ps3-slim_2047572

    But most of that ATX mods has a mistake you should be aware
    The yellow wires for 12v (and the black ones for GND) that goes to that metal "pillars" of the PS3 motherboard needs to be bigger
    That yellow wires from a PC ATX PSU are designed to carry power for a single small device (an hdd, an optical disc reader/burner, or that kind of things you connect in a PC 3.5" bay)

    But in the PS3 that metal "pillars" are carrying the full watts that had the original PSU (around 250w iirc)
    So if you do that connection with a single yellow wire... that yellow wire is going to overheat a lot, to the point that his plastic cover is going to melt
    This causes a shorcut (big damage in both ATX PSU and PS3 motherboard)

    To solve that you need to "twist" several yellow wires together (no needed to twist them, but you get the point)
    Same with the black ones for GND

    Not sure how many are needed to be "twisted" together... but i think i would use at least 4

    And that 4 wires "twisted"... needs to be connected together inside the PSU board (this means belongs to the same 12v rail internally in the ATX PSU)
    So you need to open the ATX PSU to see wich yellow wires (and black) belongs to the same rail

    Initially... i would try to see if the ones used for the PCI-e graphic cards can be used for this
     
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    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Ill give it a try,just to test if its stable, then i can assume its the PSU,and get a swap unit
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    If i dont burn my house down,then yeah why not mate,ill gladly make tutorial about it,and how to do it safely and properly.

    But ill have to do my research first

    I know i have an old ATX PSU laying around, about 400w,more than enough to do some tests.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
     
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    scamex

    scamex Forum Noob

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    Hi. If your console is shutting down after 2 seconds max and the on/off led is not lighting red then you have a GPU problem.
    If the console is shutting down before 2 seconds it has a CPU problem.
    If is shutting down after more ore equal of 5 seconds it`s a software/firmware problem.
    You can see exactly what is defective if you solder a wire between TRISTAR and GND on the motherboar. After soldering turn on and if it`s stays on its a firmware problem, if shutting down it`s a hardware problem. Just measure all RESISTORS marker with Rxxx on the power line.
    Excuse my poor english.
     
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    KILLER_SEVEN

    KILLER_SEVEN Forum Noob

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    look for cold solder joints on the bottom of the psu board
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Yeah mate, it could be the CPU or the GPU, but i highly doubt it, but it could be.

    All i know the 2000 Series got a lot of YLOD, but this isnt YLOD, more like a Power-Cut into the PSU or Mainboard.

    But cant jump into conclusions, unless i test it with a ATX PSU.

    If it continues to cut power, then yes,ill buy another PS3, probably a 4000 Series, but i didnt want too, because of the HAN Exploit, and the simplicity of the Rebug CFW on the 2500 Series, plus homebrew
     

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