PS3 PS3 (CECH-2504B) - Shuts down after 2 seconds

Discussion in 'General PS3 Discussion' started by Naked_Snake1995, Mar 27, 2018.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Here its the final product!

    Ill do a elaborate tutorial on how to connect it properly,its pretty straight forward!

    Unfortunetly my CECH-2504B,its officialy dead mates!

    Served me well, many hours on it,but now we have to say goodbye

    So long Slimmy boy! Well time for a CECH-4000 Series [​IMG]

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    :'(
    In the photo cant be seen well, but im wondering how you connected the wires, in the white small 4 pins connector you have 4 wires, but the 2 at the center are not needed, there are some tutorials where people connects them to ground though but i dont think is a good idea

    Read what i wrote at the bottom of this link... and watch the video (in portuguese or brazilian, im not sure, i dont understand it well), this guy uses only 3 wires, and the schematic that appears at beginning is fine
    http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:Power_Supply#How_it_works



    Edit:
    In the small 4 pins connector you need to connect wires like this:
    [red-nothing-nothing-red]

    The reds are 5v... one of them is the real 5v power rail output from the PSU.... and the other is a "control signal" to check if the PSU is faulty
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2018
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    He its Portuguese - Brazilian mate.

    I have done it sucessfully, i even made a fully detailed tutorial (kudos to you)

    I did connect to the ground on the 12V and 5V, it didnt do no harm
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I replyed here incase someone is interested to read what you tryed before
    [​IMG]
    I dont know if your multimeter can meassure capacitance, if not you can meassure resistance (inside the cap) by reversing poles, anyway...

    The 2 caps i marked in red should give you the same meassures
    The other marked in blue should give you a different meassure
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    The search ive done on the JSD-001 Board, mentioned these two little bastards near the 5V where the problem
     

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Ahh ok, yes, that ones are caps, and can be considered "big"... this is the 5v @ 1A power rail btw
    Note it goes to 4 VIAS (holes) at his right, they used 4 VIAS (instead of 1) for safety reasons

    If you follow that 4 vias at the other side of the board it goes to a voltage regulator, and that voltage regulator generates 3.3v (for syscon), is this schematic http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/File:SYSCON_SWx_JTP-001_JSD-001_HSW-001_CN101.jpg

    You can check 5v and 3.3v in that regulator (labeled 463A), is at the other side of the board
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Coño! Why did i went for Design for [email protected] sakes :D

    Ill have a hard time to figure it out, as i never messed with Caps and stuff! But it shouldn´t be too difficult :D:cool:

    Better worth trying, than leave it collecting dust :D
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    What does the PS3 now if you assemble it with the original PSU, the same than before ?
    1)standby mode with red led
    2)press ON button, led changes to green
    3)it returns to standby after (X ?) seconds with a "click" noise

    After that... you can repeat the sequence ? (or is stucked ?)
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    With the original PSU or with the ATX it does this!

    1 - Plug the power socket
    2 - LED Goes red (stand-by mode)
    3- Press,and LED goes green
    4- for about 1 to 2 seconds, Switch panel goes blank (no leds), and the HDD clicks (cuts power)
    5- for the LED to be in stand-by mode again (red) i have to click the power button again
    7- back to step 1

    Its not from the PSU, thats confirmed, so its one of the bad caps on the main board, that its causing a short

    Forgot to mention before, System Check Mode works, you know the fan-eject thing "aka clean your PS3 youtube days" hahahahah
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Then i guess the 5v are working normally

    For the next test dont connect the hdd ever... your first goal now is to turn ON the PS3 without hdd to display a warning on screen that tells something like "there is not any hdd connected, please turn the PS3 off and connect one"
    If you see that warning it means is alive
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    You mean this ? http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Boot_modes#Fan_test
    If not... try it
    This fan test mode can give some hint because it makes spin the fan at 100% speed... if the PSU can handle that (and the fan test is completed successfully) i guess the PSU is fine
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    The Fan Test goes at 100% full speed, without any issues, like a normal PS3 would, the PSU handles it well, even the ATX mod did handle the Fan Test successfully

    But when connected normally, with or without the HDD, its shuts down in the same manner as described in my previous post

    I am sure its some capacitor that has gone short
     
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    scamex

    scamex Forum Noob

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    Just a little tirck to test your console for GPU problems.
    Reassemble the console, plug your power cord and with the left hand push a little hard on the right side of the cooler and the lift side of the bluray drive at the same time. This is how i do when not sure whats causing problems.
    After you are keeping pushed press the power button. You should keep applying pressure for about 15 seconds after pressing power button. Dont be gentle with it just press hard and power the console.
    I had more than 3 consoles doing the same as yours and this showed me the problem :). I know it`s not a good advice but it works.
    All 3 consoles of mine that had that problem prove that was the GPU cracks, showed artifacts, but on 2 of them were reflow-ed and working until today. CECH-25xx are notorious for RLOD despite it`s a slim version. If you plan to buy another just find a CECH-2004 or something from this range (2004-2104).
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Yeah mate i might try that, i can do the Washers GPU trick as well as i saw on a CECH-3004A,but i highly doubt its a GPU problem,but i can always try!

    But i have the same problem as this guy with the same board JSD-001



    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    And about the CECH-2004, i mainly didnt get one, because of the 65nm RSX found in it, which with poor maintenence can lead to YLOD, which its 95% its, thats why i got a CECH-2504B, and about the CECH-21XX, i dont know if i can find that model in Portugal, but i am sure the 21XX has a 45nm GPU found on the 25XX.

    The problem with the YLOD isnt the solder, but actually the chip it self, 99% of the time its the RSX, because the Fan works only with the Cell Workload, and the RSX gets way too hot for its own good.

    Sony never fixed this problem themselfs, but the solder issues its just a myth that Youtube spread, but i can asure you its not the solder, but the core chip, and by re-flowing you are actually not melting the solder-balls, but fixing the little contacts and bumps, inside the RSX, but basicaly you have a dead chip, re-flowing just temporarly fixes the contacts inside the RSX, but eventually the RSX will fail again, its just a matter of time.

    I had my 60Gb, in Christmas 2015, and it died on me, got it reflowed at 300 degrees celsius, that its the tolerance temperature of the Non-lead solder, worked for 6 months, all stock before YLOD again, but i sold it before it YLOD again, so no harm done, that was when i got the Solder-Balls mentality, untill i later found one the hard truth, for a missconception, that lasted 17 years, and people still belive to this day that the solder-balls are the issue.

    The RSX when in YLOD Mode, needs at least 150ºC to get it working again, anything above that,can damage the solder-balls.

    For a full YLOD Fix, rebaling wont work, you need a complete chip replacement, which you wont find anywhere, as Sony doesnt sell you RSX Chips
     
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    scamex

    scamex Forum Noob

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    " because the Fan works only with the Cell Workload, and the RSX gets way too hot for its own good" is not true. Did you ever opened TempMON on overheating consoles ?
    A lot of consoles have overheating problems from CELL/BE not RSX. The thermal paste under CELL/BE IHS is dryed more rapidly than RSX. When opening tempmon you can see that even if the cell/be has 80 celsius the fan is not spining more quicly because the syscon is monitoring the rsx for high temperature not cell/be.
    About the solderball and core chip... did you ever took apart a RSX to see whats inside just for fun ? i belive not... Why 80% of ylod is fixed by reballing or reflowing ? because that chip has broken copper vias or a solder ball cracked because of 100 of heat and cool cycles ?
    You can look at the next generation of PS.. BLOD WLOD always fixed by HDMI encoder IC, HDMI filters and reballing APU.
    Flip chip is bullshit. How do you explain how the vias inside chip are soldering toghether without solder if there is a problem there ?
    Did you soldered until now only with leadfree solder ?
    I dont know if you can reach the knowledge to answer but i hope that you will. Please excuse my poor english.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    I won´t enter in much detail here mate, but ill leave this video of Louis Rossmann, if you have the time to watch it, on the topic we discussed



    Maybe you are right mate, the PS3 works with the RSX Workload instead on the CELL B/E, but a dead chip its a dead chip, the issue still are not the solder-balls, and reballing doesnt do crap!

    Does a reballing shop guarrantee you that your PS3 will work forever!? I dont think so mate...

    There are sometimes that reballing does fix an issue,but in this case, not a dead chip...

    I had a reballed 60Gb in 2013, with lead-solder, after ive got my second 60Gb in 2015, and it died...

    Its Sony fault for crap quality on the PS3s!? Yes indeed!

    Sony could have fixed this from day one in 2006, if they got rid of the IHS on all models, to be easier to work with.

    Once a PS3 gets YLOD, its just waste to throw away...
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
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    minimal.network

    minimal.network Forum Noob

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    Hola @Naked_Snake1995! I know that this is an old post, but I am in the same situation than you. I have a PS3 CECH-4004C (Super Slim) model. When I connect the power supply:
    1 - LED Goes red (stand-by mode)
    2- Press,and LED goes green
    3- for about 1 to 2 seconds, (sometimes GREEN LED it remains for 4 or 5 seconds more) and then LED goes blank (no leds), and the HDD clicks (cuts power).
    4- for the LED to be in stand-by mode again (red) i have to click the power button again
    5- back to step 1

    I have replaced original Power Supply by a ATX Power Supply and does the same. I have replaced it for another Power Supply and I have removed all peripherals (HDD and BlueRay) without success too. I don't know what can I do.
    My question is, had you resolve your problem? Any suggestions? Thanks!
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    This thread its old, but i can help you with something, but i dont know if it will work, but you can try. Do this, put the original PSU back,and put something heavy on the PSU, in theory it should work, or not,but its worth the try!

    Ive heard the 4000 Series causes this problem, mainly with loose PSU, try it ;)
     
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    Md Hesam Member

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    My ps3 super slim turn off after 5 seconds
     

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