PS3 PS3 (CECHG) NLOD

Discussion in 'Hardware Mods' started by jacobsson, Oct 13, 2019.

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    jacobsson

    jacobsson Member

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    I got a fat worthless PS3 CECHG from the interwebs which doesn't show a red led during standby. When pressing the power button I get the triple beeps just like a YLOD unit, except no lights are flashing in the front.

    I used this unit to pratice a NEC tokin replacement (I'll soon receive a YLOD CECHA which is gonna get this treatment).
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    The mod seems intact and have not changed the behavior of the unit, therefore I thought why not try to fix the real issue.

    I anyone have any suggestion of what components to remove/check/measure?

    Things I've tested so far:
    • Replacing the PSU with a known working unit
    • Replacing NEC tokins for the GPU and CPU (top side only)

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    jacobsson

    jacobsson Member

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    Thanks mate, I glanced over that area yesterday but didn't see anything suspicious. I'll make sure to measure the components for shorts or if somethings dead. I don't like the thought of binning it w/o giving it a chance.

    By the way, I looked at some videos removing NEC Tokins, they use screwdrivers to pop them off in 10s w/o any residual on the solder pads. I tried the same thing but had so much residuals left from the bottom layer connected to the pads that it took an hour to properly remove (trying not to damage anything). Have you attempted this mod yourself?
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I think it worths a chance because is a rare failure, sometimes rare failures are easy to fix
    Btw, the front panel leds and buttons are connected with syscon, the only posible reason that could cause the standby red led to dont turn on are:
    -led fryed
    -resistor of that led fryed
    -transistor of that led fryed
    -syscon is not sending the signal to turn the red led on

    The green led is not turned on either, so probably what is happening is syscon is not sending the signal, anyway, i made an schematic of that part of the circuit, is from a PS3 slim but the way how it works is the same
    https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/images/0/04/SYSCON_SWx_JTP-001_JSD-001_HSW-001_CN101.jpg

    Syscon sends an small voltage to the transistor, and the transistor connects the negative (-) pin of the led to ground
    The resistor of the led is always located in his positive (+) pin
    I never did but i would not do it like that, i think is safer to touch it with a solder iron on top to overheat it entirelly
    This would cause lot of residues and fumes, but is easy, and i would use tape all around to prevent the shit to spread all along the motherboard, then cleanup with alcohol, etc :)
     
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    jacobsson Member

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    Thanks mate, always so helpful!
    I'm gonna have a look at your list and schematic to check if any passive component is dead (hopefully).
    Both the eject and power button works by touching them to turn the system on, so signals should be getting sent from the touch circuit at least.

    About the NECs, there is actually a pretty good way that combines our methods, which is gonna be my approach for the CECHA01.
    1. Pop of the plastic lid (very easy with a side cutter)
    2. Peel off most layers of the NEC with a small screw driver or knife (tedious but easy)
    3. Remove any residual isolating plastics from the NEC (minor PCB scratch risk), a lot less fumes for step 4.
    4. Heat up the residual bottom layer of the NEC till it let go of the of the pad (need a lot of heat due to the ground plane)

    The last part (4) is the part that was really risky using knife or screw driver, so this should be much safer using heat.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    In step (4) you should also add lot of tin to create a big "blob" of tin in a side of the tokin (or both sides at the same time, not sure)
    This way you can "insert" the solder tip inside the blob, this helps a lot to transfer the heat from the solder iron tip to the motherboard
    It also allows the tin to conserve the heat for a few more seconds (this way you can move the solder to the other side)
    And las reason (but this is probably the best) it allows the factory tin to alloy with the new tin you are adding, this changes his melting point, in my experience any tin you have at home is going to have a lower melting point than the one in the PS3 motherboard
     
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    jacobsson Member

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    Yes, that is a very good point. The solder at home also has some flux mixture in it which helps a lot, I'm also an advocate of that you can't add too much flux (as long as you do a good cleaning after) when doing this kind of work, although more flux = more fumes.
    I've started wearing a filtered mask too and not just ventilation.

    Anyhow, I'll get back to you when I've got the time (hopefully later today after work) to troubleshoot my board :encouragement:
     
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    wrx884 Member

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    As a simple way of testing the SMD LEDs use ur multimeter and set it to diode mode and probe the + and - , u should be able to see the LED light up very faintly to see if its working, that way u can back probe from there. If for some reason ur DMM doesn't work in diode mode (not all cheap meters do) u can use a simple 1.5V battery which will do the same thing. it wont send enough current to destroy the LEDs so u will be fine.

    With the tokin caps my method is basically what sangas has mentioned the 2nd time. my solder tip is a flat chisel type tho, if u can get one of these that will help a lot.

    1. Pry the caps off like u stated
    2. break away all plastic around the caps outer edges, small pointy nose pliers works best.
    3. use the thinnest and smallest flat head screw driver u have, size 00 works best so u can pry the layers up slightly.
    4. use same pliers to pull the layers right off and u will be left with the last ground layer pad and the positive pads still soldered to the board usually.
    if u get to the ground layer pad u will have plastic between the ground pad and both positive points still.
    5. use long thin tweezers if u have them to remove the last remaining thin plastic between these 2 points.
    6. put 2 blobs of solder on the ground pad directly under each motherboard ground pads, one top and one bottom of the ground points.
    7. use same tweezers to help lift the ground pad up from one side of 1st blob while u heat it, once its clear u can do the same on other blob and it will remove completely.
    8. do the same blobs on both positive points to remove the positive pads, use the same tweezers.
    9. This is important i find but u may not have it for every day use but use plenty of flux paste and get some solder wick to clean up all the remaining solder. this will create fumes from the flux so if ur worried use protection. it will get messy but nothing IPA cant fix to clean up the motherboard. Dont forget to clean both sides, the flux will go through the vias and onto the other side of the board.

    Gezz after reading this back it seems like a lot of steps haha but its not really, i find its the best way to not get any plastic fumes but also get a nice neat job ready for ur new caps.
     
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    jacobsson Member

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    @wrx884 @sandungas
    I actually did the probing in diode mode earlier today before reading your post.
    The diodes are intact, so are the connecting resistors.

    The transistors I couldn't really tell for sure, they had these very large resistance differences when measuring the different legs in combinations, which I understand is good, so I think they're fine too.

    I had a look at all fuses I could find, they all had continuity.

    The only thing I know I have to do is trying to measure the voltage rails after the psu, any directions for test points?
    Other than that I guess my syscon is borked then maybe?
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2019
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    You should try to meassure voltage in the "base" pin of the red led transistor... in standby (there is no need to turn on the PS3)
    Is a direct connection in between the base transistor pin and a syscon pin

    And next thing you can check (without voltage on the motehrboard), is to meassure continuity in between this same base transistor pin and a syscon pin... just to see if the line is "broken" at some point... not probable but anyway

    Next ting i would try to check is the voltage regulator of the schematic i posted before, that voltage regulator "feeds" syscon, it have 2 output voltages (and both are 3.3v if i remember right)
     
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    jacobsson Member

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    @sandungas Hi mate. Just wanted to say that I haven't had the time yet to check the voltages. I wonder though, the syscon on my board is on the opposite side of the board (right by the battery), correct?

    Reference image:
    [​IMG]
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I cant identify it in that photo, but should be located close to cell/southbridge/flash
    And for a SEM-001 motherboard it should be the CXR713120-20XGB
    https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Syscon_Hardware
    https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/CXR713120-201GB

    Is like that photo of the first generation, this is bad news and good news at both times, is soldered by BGA so is tricky to check his pins and some of them could be inaccesible
    But probably is the better documented of all the PS3 syscon familly, the keys/exploit published some weeks ago are for it
     
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    wrx884 Member

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    yes its the one right under the 3V cell.
     
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    jacobsson Member

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    Hi. I had some time tonight so I measured the voltage over the transistor leg. during standby, I only saw a couple of millivolts so basically nothing (as inspected since the diods work). I found that the "left leg" (facing the ps3 normally) of the transistor had a via that connected to some adjacent passives of the syscon. I have to dig some more tomorrow and see if these passives are getting any voltage. If not, maybe one of the 3.3v regulators are dead as you said
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/CXR713120-201GB#Bottomside_Pinout
    There is a photo of a DIA-0001 motherboard, different than yours, but try to see if you have a testpad like the R5 in this photo:
    It should be 3.3v in standby
    [​IMG]

    Edit:
    It seems R5 can be identifyed easy because it have a big capacitor and 2 vias (holes)
     
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    jacobsson Member

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    @sandungas
    this is what I get during standby and power cycle ("during pwr on"):
    [​IMG]

    So there is at least one 3.3V to SYSCON present during standby. After many sequencial the CPU get hot, that's a good sign at least.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2019

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