PS3 Right USB Port not working (SuperSlim) [Solved, kind of]

Discussion in 'Hardware Mods' started by blckbear_, Jan 20, 2019.

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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    After installing HAN on my PS3 the furthest right USB port (dev_usb000) stopped working. There's no data nor voltage going through the port. I checked the USB port fuses on the motherboard and they're ok. Could this be a software issue due to a bad installation of HAN or due to a bad execution of the exploit? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    There is no software involved in powering up the USB ports
    SYSCON chip have lot of connections like a spiderweb with several "voltage regulators", and every voltage regulator controlls a "power line" that feeds several components of the motherboard
    In other words... SYSCON controlls the power lines of the motherboard and it can enable/disable groups of components
    This is the only "control signal" related with USB power

    I guess the voltage regulator (and fuses) for USB ports is shared, so you should have power in both USB ports... or none of them
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    Thanks for the answer, I'll check again the port voltage. The weird thing is what you stated, I only get power on one port even though they share the same power line.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Verify that again to be sure, because in that case you should take a look at this small components i was mentioning in post #13 of this thread:
    http://www.psx-place.com/threads/need-help-with-ps3-slim-usb-not-working.21110/#post-142966
    [​IMG]

    That components are separated for each USB port, are intended to "filter" interferences and to protect the motherboard... but also works as fuses because they can "blow up" incase of a shorcut in the external USB device



    Edit:
    But are connected in the "data" lines (not power)... so dunno
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    If I remember correctly i checked those components and they seemed to be ok.
    After doing some more tests I'm now completely sure that the problem resides on the power lines as I'm not getting any voltage at all on the right USB port and as you said the problem can't be software related.
    I'll try forcing 5V into the port bridging the 5V line before the main fuse to the USB port's 5V pin and see if that works.
    I'll post my results later this week when I have time to test the console again.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Take a look at this, is a list of the voltage regulators i found in my PS3 slim, could vary by motherboard model but not much
    The pinouts are not complete because my goal was to see how syscon controlls them :)
    https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:Regulators

    I guess one of them could be dedicated to power up the USB ports, you should check them
    But not sure who powers up USB ports... the other alternative is if the power comes directly from PSU, but i guess your PSU is fine (with the nice ATX mod)
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    Thanks! I'll take a look at it and see if I can get to a solution. I'll be back in a few days with my results. Thanks again for your help! :joyous:
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yep, take some time to check where the lines are connected with the multimeter, my experience with the PS3 is that voltage regulators are tricky because are connected to lines that goes to internal layers of the motherboard (not visibles)
    There are not much traces around the voltage regulators... what there are is lot of vias (holes)

    I found the connections with syscon (with some effort) because i was sure that existed, and are a straight line (without components in between), so the multimeter gave me exact meassures... it was just a matter to find which pins was connected to each others :D

    But in between the voltage regulator and the USB port there is going to be components... and you dont know where are located (because the hidden traces)
    So... be patient, and start finding lines a bit randomly... and take notes on paper

    This is the kind of thing that only should be made if you are very desperate, and you dont care about the device, either because is very cheap or is not worthy... is like the last resort
    You know electronics, so i guess if you do it will be in a "good way" (if the circuit allows an alternative "good way"), but still... is better to avoid it
     
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    I'll look into it. I'd like to fix this in a way that the console stays as stock as possible so I guess I'll double check any component related to the USB ports so i can replace it (or in the case that I can't find a replacement I'll try to bypass it in the safest way possible).

    I was brainstorming, you are completely right about that being a desperate solution, but at the time that was the first thing that came to my mind. Now with your help I have more things to try before rushing to that solution. Again, thanks for taking your time and helping me! :D
     
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    blckbear_ Member

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    Well, after taking my time to check all the components I got to the problem, one of the two transistors inside the RT9712AA Voltage switch (the one inside the red rectangle) is broken, thus not switching on the voltage on that USB port. I didn't have time nor the will to go and find a replacement, so I did what we agreed wasn't the best solution (but I didn't skip the fuse, so that's safer than what I was thinking to do before) and I jumped together the two solder points inside the green rectangle, turning the left 5V lane into the 5V lane for both ports. It's now working flawlessly, but there's a chance of breaking the other transistor due to overcurrent flowing through one transistor when using the two USB ports at the same time.
    I currently looking for replacement parts from China, if i get to replace it I'll update the thread in order to tell if it ended up being the problem or not.

    If you want to read about the RT9712AA: https://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT9712/DS9712-04.pdf

    oOIMhGDFxxneKkvW.jpg
    I noticed that on the picture uploaded the voltage switch is another one, so I guess it depends on the model the chip you'll find.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Good research and explain :encouragement:
    I like the temporal fix you did by "bridging" the outputs of the dual transistor... half of it was "burned" internally and by bridging the outputs you are risking in "burning" the other half... so is fine because it was partially damaged already

    ---------------
    Btw, when i was looking at the voltage regulators of my PS3 slim i never found the connections with the USB ports but i guess is going to be the same for all slims and superslims.... all them have 2 USB ports so probably is used a dual transistor on all them (and 2 duals or a single quad for the PS3 fats)

    Actually, i bet is the component with 8 pins located in between the 2 yellow circles i painted in this photo
    https://www.psx-place.com/threads/r...r-installing-han-superslim.22211/#post-154526

    And your case is very interesting for me to know, i never imagined that transistor/switch could burn so frequently, is the first time i see someone reporting this problem and explaining it so well :encouragement:
     
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    blckbear_ Member

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    I came to that conclusion because all the components related to the USB after the common 5v lane (after the big green fuse) were all showing the same results when I tested them, so the only possibility was that the voltage switch was the faulty component. I'm not 100% sure, but that was what my tests lead me to hahaha
    And yeah, I'm risking breaking the other half, but the only thing I do related to USB is using a flash drive, I like to charge my controllers on the TV or the PC, so I think it will last long enough hahaha

    On a different topic, should I change the title of the thread? Maybe saying "after installing HAN" is misleading and not accurate at all.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Did you check if the 2 base pins of the dual transistor are connected together ?, in other words, the switching is driven by the same line ? (coming from syscon)
    As far i could see sony does that a lot, a single control line connected to several transistors (instead of using a single transistor for all them)
    Not sure if is because is considered a good practice, for safety reasons, or because they likes to waste money, lol but this is one of the reasons why i like sony consoles :)

    -----
    Yes i guess the mention to HAN could be removed from the title thread, it was just a coincidence
    This kind of coincidence/confusion happens to many people because they was not using his PS3 since months ago and they started using the PS3 again because an exploit was published :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
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    i can not read the part number but im sure you can order it from ebay
     
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    If I'm not mistaken, the switching is driven by a load detection, the thing is that the voltages are always on because the circuit has some drain resistors that keep a constant load when nothing is connected. The voltage switch also has a current limit, so being always on may deteriorate the other components or the switch itself and end up failing.

    The other possibility could be my USB drive, it's gone through a lot of repairs, I wouldn't be surprised if the drive shorted something, breaking the voltage switch or nearby components hahaha

    When I get to change the voltage switch, if I eventually change it, I'll post my results.

    Just to clarify, l don't care a lot about this PS3 because it's my "Frankenstein" unit hahaha, it broke a lot of times so I'm used to doing fast and cheap repairs.
     
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    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I think are always on when the PS3 is on, and syscon is doing the ON/OFF switch of both of the transistors (inside the dual transistor) with a single control line

    I agree, in your case the fix you did is fine, it could be a temporal fix but you could keep it permanently, there is not much risk
    If the PS3 doesnt matters much to you just keep it, but eventually you should take a look at ebay or aliexpress, this is the kind of component where you could find an offer of 5 of them free shipping for 1$ or 2$ lol
    Also, i guess there is going to be some compatible transistors from other manufacturers, by loking at the other PS3 models most probably all them are going to be compatibles, incase are different for every PS3 motherboard model most probably is going to be because sony changed his supplyers
     
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    I might have to read more about Syscon, the only thing I know is the ON/OFF lane for the PSU ( because of the ATX mod).
    Looking again at the datasheet for my voltage switch, there are two pins called EN1 and EN2 that are the enable pins for VOUT1 and VOUT2 respectively. As you said, Syscon must control them. Later I should check if there's something broken in between the enable pins and Syscon. The only thing is that the pinout in the datasheet doesn't match the one I did when checking the chip. So I'll have to test a bit more to figure out my actual pinout.
    Then we have the flag pins, those are for overcurrent protection, and I think my problem is related to the flags, but I may be wrong hahaha

    Regarding the pinout, I figured the easy ones hahaha
    being pin 1 the one with the dot it goes like this:
    Pin 1: Unknown
    Pin 2: Unknown
    Pin 3: Unknown
    Pin 4: Unknown
    Pin 5: VOUT2 (right USB port)
    Pin 6: GND
    Pin 7: VIN (5V that come from the main 5V lane)
    Pin 8: VOUT1 (left USB port)

    Just so you can follow the numbers:
    oOIMhGDFxxneKkvQ.jpg

    Pins 1 to 4 are the flags and enable pins, but I don't have my PS3 to test and figure out which ones they are, and I may do it by the end of the next month as I have uni test right now.
    Next time I disassemble my PS3 I'll take better pictures.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
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    So I found another picture (from a Slim model) that someone took and measured the voltages on the unknown pins.
    Pins 1 to 4 go like this:
    Pin 1: EN1 (receives 3.3V from Syscon, called it 1 because it is on the left side)
    Pin 2: FLG1 (overcurrent protection, called it 1 because it is on the left side)
    Pin 3: FLG2 (overcurrent protection, called it 2 because it is on the right side)
    Pin 4: EN2 (receives 3.3V from Syscon, called it 2 because it is on the right side)

    Image from the Slim model:
    2769515400_1429133804.jpg

    The rest of the pinout is exactly the same as the SuperSlim, so the final pinout would be like this:
    Pin 1: EN1
    Pin 2: FLG1
    Pin 3: FLG2
    Pin 4: EN2
    Pin 5: VOUT2
    Pin 6: GND
    Pin 7: VIN
    Pin 8: VOUT1

    oOIMhGDFxxneKkvQ.jpg
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Cool, now i see it better, just a couple of details from the photo of the superslim:

    The capacitors at the sides connected to the VOUT's of the dual transistor, one for each USB port

    The thermistor at top (labeled TH****) connected to the VIN of the dual transistor, it works as a fuse that "cuts" the line by heat, in the photo of the PS3 slim the thermistor can be seen too at the right but his name is covered by the label that was painted on top (is something like TH**01)

    The syscon works at 3.3v and his output control signals are 3.3v so it matches fine with the values painted in the slim photo
     
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    All the times I said "main fuse" or talked about "the fuse from the main 5v lane" I was talking about that hahaha
    Thank you, now I know it's a fuse that cuts due to overheat.

    And well, now I think I should check if Syscon is giving 3.3V to the voltage switch. If it does, I think I can say that the voltage switch is the fault component.
     

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