PS3 [Tutorial] Fully working ATX PSU Mod

Discussion in 'Hardware Mods' started by blckbear_, Jan 20, 2019.

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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    Fully working PS3 ATX Power Supply Mod

    READ THIS FIRST:
    I recommend reading Naked_Snake1995’s guide first so you get a better understanding of the things that we’ll be doing in this guide.
    Link: http://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-connect-atx-power-supply-to-ps3.17180/
    All the pictures of my PS3 mod will be posted after the guide and there will also be a YouTube video showing this mod.

    Introduction

    After my PS3’s power supply died I found out that you could power it using an ATX power supply, only problem was that the PSU had to be powered manually by shorting the green and black wires from the 24-pin connector together. After some days researching about the PS3’s power supply and some ATX power supply mods involving Arduinos to power them on I figured out that the ATX power supply could be turned on using the PS3’s power button as if it was the original power supply.

    Credits:
    Mr.Dutch
    from ps3hax.net for all the research he has done regarding the PS3’s PSU:
    https://web.archive.org/web/20141023220831/http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=58231&page=2
    Naked_Snake1995 from PSX-Place for his tutorial on how to use the ATX PSU:
    http://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-connect-atx-power-supply-to-ps3.17180/
    psdevwiki writers for all the information and pictures that they have collected and made available for us to use:
    http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply

    How to

    There are two methods for doing this, the fist one involves using an optocoupler and the second one involves using an NPN transistor. I’ll be detailing the steps to perform the first method. I went with this method because I think its safer in the long run due to the fact that if a transistor is burnt there’s a high chance of shorting its 3 pins and getting voltages in places they don’t belong. Optocouplers are also called opto-isolators since the current that activates the transistor is isolated from the collector and emitter current of the transistor. This is because the transistor is a photosensitive transistor and the activator is an infrared LED.
    More information about optocouplers can be found here: https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/blog/optocoupler.html

    Components needed:
    -ATX PSU
    -A 220 Ohm resistor (I’m using a 200 Ohm resistor)
    -A 2561D Optocoupler (6 of this can be found on the broken original PSU). Datasheet: https://www.renesas.com/ko-kr/doc/YOUSYS/document/002/PN10777EJ02V0DS.pdf
    -24-pin female connector (optional)
    -4-pin female CPU connector or female Molex connector (optional)

    Explanation of the parts chosen:
    The 2561D optocoupler was chosen because there were 6 on the broken power supply and I decided to reuse them.
    [​IMG]
    The 220 Ohm resistor was chosen based on the characteristics from the optocoupler’s data sheet. The optocoupler’s diode has a 1.2V forward voltage with a 10mA current, so with the 3.3V provided from the ACDC_STBY line the equation is like this: (Vin-Vf)/Ic=R, so we have (3.3-1.2)V/0.01A=210 Ohm and the nearest resistor going up is 220 Ohm. I had a 200 Ohm resistor lying around so I decided to use it as the actual current flowing would be around 10.5mA, not a lot more taking into consideration the 40mA maximum current stated in the data sheet.
    The 24-pin, the 4-pin or Molex connector were chosen to make the connection externally, so the ATX PSU can be unplugged and used for other purposes if needed, and it would also make it a good-looking mod with no wires exposed.
    [​IMG]

    These are the schematics for the optocoupler’s connection

    [​IMG]
    ACDC_STBY is one of the PS3’s wires that connect to the stock PSU. This wire has 0V when the system is off, and when the power button is pressed it gives 3.3V to tell the PSU that it has to turn on the 12V rails. We’re using this 3.3V state to turn on the optocoupler.

    PS_ON is the ATX PSU green wire, this wire has to be shorted to ground in order to turn the PSU on. We will be able to do this with the optocoupler.

    Then we have to connect the purple wire (5V_SB) of the PSU to the ACIN_DET pin and the 5VSB pin on the PS3’s motherboard, these are the ones responsible of powering the low power section of the PS3 when it's turned off.
    After this we must connect the yellow (12V) and black (GND) wires to their respective pins on the PS3 motherboard.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    After this the PSU should be working fine, powering itself on only when we turn on the console.

    My results

    [​IMG]
    1- I recycled the stock PSU's 5V connector making it easier to take apart the console if needed.
    2- That's the optocoupler (the resistor is under the yellow tape on the red wire)
    3- I recycled the stock PSU's 12V connector making it easier to take apart the console if needed.

    For more pictures see the attached images below.

    YouTube video:



    Any corrections or suggestions regarding the guide are welcome.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 24, 2019
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Who dares to steal my tutorial? :D
     
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    Berion

    Berion Developer

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    Molex and PU22? Could be done only on SATA 11pin?

    Are the temperatures are now lower inside?
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Accommodating that board into a small form-factor,like an ITX case with the PSU build in, it would be a neat little project.

    Ive seen people accommodating, COK-001 mainboards from the 60Gbs,into a full ATX Case and PSU, which improved reliability and cooling, a lot.
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    I use the 24-Pin and the Molex so that I can use 2 12V wires to make sure I can provide the console with 13 Amps without burning the wires. If you only use a SATA connector with only one 12V wire you will probably overheat the wire and it may burn.
    Regarding the 24-Pin so that I could mount the optocoupler inside of the console and not having to connect the green wire manually.

    In conclusion, as long as you provide enough current in a safe way you can use any connector that you want.

    Edit: Regarding temperatures I don't really know, there's better airflow for sure (I'm also planning to make a hole on the case over the fan so it has a better intake) but I used a sh*tty thermal paste, so I don't really know if temps are lower or not.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Pretty nice :encouragement:
    [​IMG]
    I was thinking in turning on the PS3 like that since time ago, but with a transistor instead of the octocoupler, i never tryed it though, but i suggested it in forums several times

    If someone wants to build a mod with a PS3 motherboard inside a custom case this is a "must do"
    We are going to steal all your royalties, muahahah haha
    Now seriouslly, this is not like the other tutorial, is an "expansion" of it
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    I thought of that, but it's more work than I'm willing to do hahaha
    Maybe in the future I try this, who knows?
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    I thought about using the transistor but I didn't want to go and buy one so I decided to use the optocouplers on the stock PSU. We can say my lazyness lead me this way hahaha
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I dont want to derrail the thread much because what you wrote is good enought, but i think i have an improvement

    The point is... the PS3 have a power cord, originally intended for 220v/gnd
    You can "repurpose" the internal connector of that cable to carrry the 12v and the GND

    Then... the next lines needed are the 5v, 5v standby, and the signal to turn ON
    You can carry them in a USB cable... the AMPS of the 5v line in the PS3 is low (only used to feed syscon chip as far i remember, and not much more)

    So basically, what im saying is to have the ATX power supply in the floor... with 2 cables to the PS3
    -the big power cable (repurposed for 12v and GND)
    -A long USB cable max 5 meters (repurposed for 5v standby, 5v, and poweron signal)


    ---------
    Bonus, you can customize the ATX PSU on the floor by removing all the uneeded cables and/or make custom connectors... technically you only need 4 or 5 wires in between ATX<--->PS3 :encouragement:
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    That's a good way of keeping things tidy! I went with the motherboard connectors because my PS3 is actually on a shelf and the PSU is well hidden behind the console. This is why I tried to make the guide as general as possible, so that anyone gets the idea and does it their own way.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yes, is an idea to make it pretty, also to place the ATX far away from the PS3 (i guess it should work up to 5 meters, but with 2 meters should be enought to place the ATX on the floor)

    And instead of what i mentioned about cutting wires or customizing the ATX (this is not so good because is destructive) you can build a case for the ATX with custom connectors outside, but standard ATX connectors inside. This way you can replace the ATX at any point in a easy way

    But electrically is the same you did, you only have 5 wires in between ATX<--->PS3 right ? (with 2 grounds)

    The ones that carries more watts are the 12/gnd... are around 200watts in a single wire (varies by PS3 model)... this is why using the big power cord of the PS3 (intended for 220v) comes in handy :D
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    That's something I forgot to say, I actually need the PSU for a Pentium4 PC that I use for retro gaming. The PSU case idea is pretty good though, if I ever need to perform this mod again I may try that out.
    And using the stock power cord for a safer connection and more power is a great idea also!

    I'm using the 12V wire, the 5VSB wire, the PS_ON(green) wire and two grounds. I think that only one ground may work, and that would make it only 4 wires in total if I'm not forgetting any other connection.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I never checked it but i bet the ground of the white connector and the ground next to the 12v post are connected to each other
    And most probably that connection in between them have a lot of "metal" wide traces so only 1 GND should be enought

    One doubt i have (not sure if you mentioned or i missed it), you are connecting the 5VSB to the ACIN_DET in the white connector ?

    The ACIN_DET as far i remember is an "input" of the official PSU used to verify that the output of the 5VSB pin of the PSU is working correctly
    So in other words... it seems to be a "self check" that the PSU makes to itself
    If what im saying is right then i dont understand why is connected to the motherboard... that same check could be made internally in the official PSU
     
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    Yeah, I'm connecting the 5VSB to the ACIN_DET. If I'm not mistaken the ACIN_DET checks for five volts always, that means that if the PSU isn't turned on (the green wire grounded) it won't start. That's why I used the 5V standby wire, so I always have 5V constantly going to the ACIN_DET and 5VSB connections even when the PSU is turned off.
     
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    blckbear_ Member

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    Now with the temperature reader browser exploit I got to check temperature differences, so to finally answer @Berion's question, I got 4 °C lower on both CELL and RSX with the external PSU.
     
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    blckbear_ Member

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    Just wanted to let you know that I got to upload the video. It's just a timelapse and at the end I show the console working, that's it.
     

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