PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.

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    aminiani

    aminiani Forum Noob

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    Hi again..i try to remove caps cover with knife and one of the small thing got detached from board.i mark it with yellow flash in pic.
    is it problem or not?
    if install tantalum it work or completely dead?
    thank you
     

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    joe musashi

    joe musashi Member

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    hope it works so good i suggest that you check youtube for more information if you clean the nec and add tantalum take a photo to see what you did because your ps3's motherboard it's same my ps3's motherboard
     
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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    Its done roughly but being only postive negative ands grounds only won't give problem grab a iron and solderwick to clean pads before adding tantulum. with solder on pads it will be harder to add a replacement neatly or just use a thinner pointy tip for solder iron for easiness.
    Let see what others say
     
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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    mine died on me either from courrpted emmc because i din't put hdd in it or rsx or cell died because of crappy hynix thermal paste my brother told me to apply
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Left the unit disconnected from power for two days. Removed the HDD and booted up the console. HDD missing notice popped up and my console beeped 3 times and turned off.

    Figured on the off chance it might do that normally when It does not detect a HDD but I started it right back up again and it has been going for 20+ minutes.

    This confirms that my HDD is not at fault and also backs up the theory that my ‘new’ YLOD symptoms after tantalum install seem to be triggered when the console is cold.

    Any advice?
     
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    marciolsf

    marciolsf Member

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    I don't think it's when it's "cold" so much as something is not holding up when you introduce voltage to it -- maybe one of your caps is giving out. Back when I repaired LCD displays, I'd have power boards that had inconsistent behavior because the caps hadn't gone bad entirely, it would depend on overall temperature, load, etc. Once I had all the caps replaced, voila, inconsistency gone.
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Okay
    Okay fair point. Would it be accurate to assume though more heat = more voltage? As in once the unit has heated up well most of the capacitors start working fully? Reason being is I wanted to test the unit again tomorrow once everything has cooled down again but this time, run it with Syscon settings until it heats up, then switch over to webman. If it does not shut down, then I can at least confirm the trigger.

    Secondly, before the 4 bottom side NECs were removed, I did not have this issue. After they were replaced, my TTT2/GT6 driven YLOD dissapeared yet now I have this problem. Would one assume the shutdowns are now caused by the remaining NECs, or perhaps a faulty replacement tantal?

    Im just trying to understand the cause of the new shutdowns and what’s driving them. Definitely getting closer, lol.
     
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    marciolsf

    marciolsf Member

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    Pretty much, but it's really the other way around -- heat is by-product of voltage. There is the general idea that capacitors can be "restored" by being heated, but I'm not too familiar with the principles to speak of it.

    I sorta don't think that a single tantalum would cause your whole system to fail, but ultimately that'd come down to how many you installed... Meaning, for most cases, the tantalums you added are working ok. But once you reach a certain threshold, they're no longer providing sufficient capacitance as a whole, and the system fails. So along those lines, it's possible that a single, faulty tantalum is working ok under average loads, but not so much once you reach a certain load.
     
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    ElGris

    ElGris Member

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    "Would one assume the shutdowns are now caused by the remaining NECs, or perhaps a faulty replacement tantal?"

    Why would you leave NECs on the mobo when you are already having YLOD issues?

    If your console is booting, your problem is in the remaining NECs, or either on the CELL if you were having overheating issues (the ones where the console shutdowns just after you turn it on).

    @marciolsf Heat and a YLOD console booting again is something well known, since 2007 we can see people using heatguns on their mobos, over the processors and the "little rectangles" below them. See..



    Why after heating the mobo on that zone, miraculously, the console boots again? This was a problem even for experts in rework jobs, since they believed this was only a bga problem, and not anything else. So, after the repair job was done, the console came back again to the repair shop 'cause the bgas cracked again, but they didn't, and that WASN'T the issue in the first place. This was the reason why many of these shop didn't want to make these kind of jobs on these consoles. But thanks to this, many others stole money from people by only doing a worthless reflow that will last weeks, months..

    The explanation can be only in the internals of every NEC, since it has something like liquid and also some kind of gas, that seem to react with temperature, reactivating the minimum voltage for making the console boot. Why they even put crap like this in a $600 console?
     
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    marciolsf

    marciolsf Member

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    Well, I don't disagree that it works! At last some of the time, anyway. The main thing is that, chemically, we don't know why it does, or why it doesn't. So far, using a scope seems to be the preferred method to determine if the caps are faulty and if we need to heat them at all, but that still doesn't explain why....
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Let me clarify a few things here.

    I seem to have two different YLODs on this console. Yes, a YLOD is a YLOD, but i have two different YLOD triggers. The first YLOD and the reason why i had the capacitors replaced, is that from the moment i bought the unit, i was not able to play the usual games that give issues with the Necs in phats - TTT2/GT6/TLOU etc. Only when i would play these games, and at the same points in game would a YLOD occur. It would not shut down at all if i did not play these games and i was able to play at great length too.

    Once the two Necs were replaced with tantalums on the bottom of the board that feed the Cell the YLOD went away. That is, i was able to test these games at length with no shutdowns. Therefore, I assumed that these two Necs were the cause of my YLOD during power heavy games. Fast forward to a few days later, is where my 'cold starts' YLOD occurred. These have nothing to do with the original problem which caused me to have it repaired to begin with. Now i have Cold Ylods, which were not there previously. I am trying to understand why these are now occurring when they weren't an issue previously. Is it the extra strain on the remaining necs? Probably, wont know until they are replaced, I just thought logically, if both sides necs were bad, and one whole side was replaced with tantalums which are supposed to be more powerful, should the 'good side' compensate for the side which wasnt causing issues previously?

    I'd also like to start testing some boot ups with syscon settings to help heat the caps up faster. I am running rebug cfw with webman, so i am wondering if anyone knows of a setting available where i can have the system start up in syscon, then after say 1 or 2 minutes, switch over to my webman fan control settings?
     
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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    so you only replaced NEC capacitors of Cell and not RSX right. well don't expect the RSX NECs to hold up for Cell replacement because ylod since begining has mostly been associated with Either RSX or RSX Nec capacitors
     
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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    now will someone spread some light on my posts and help me get my fat up and running
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Both cell and rsx caps on the bottom of the board are all tantalums. RSX was done first but still YLOd on those games, so once CELL was done too, no more YLOD on those games.
     
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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    have you tried putting an infred red on both CELL and RSX with some good flux to get BGA solder straighten up
     
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    evaldas256

    evaldas256 Member

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    Hey guys.

    I've replaced all but one tokins for each chip with 3x470uf 10V tantalums, and after seeing that it's still dead, added two more per chip, still didn't work.Then i noticed that many many capacitors on the chip side of the board are shorted or have low ohm continuity. Photo shows tantalums that are beeping with multi meter.

    I wasn't the first one to work on this board, in fact, i found quite a few anomalies so i guess it's safe to presume the main chip connections have been bridged with a heat gun and the only fix is a reball, right?
    If anyone has any ideas, i'd love to hear them, because i'm out of options on this PS3.
    Oh and i get a 3 second YLOD, no different from when i got it with no tokins replaced.
     

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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    yup if you are not the first one to work on it consider reball an unavoidable requirement or you can either put good flux and use an infred red on it if you live in uk there are people who would do that for you
    LET see whats others say
     
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    ElGris

    ElGris Member

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    I believe you removed the good NECs and left the bad ones. Why? You applied heat to remove them in first place, now we come back to my previous comment. Now those caps aren't warm, so you'll need to replace all of them.
    If you wanna try something, remove all the NECs and don't put any tantalum there, and see if the console boots.
     
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    SeanRanklin

    SeanRanklin Member

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    Interesting theory. I really thought the bad ones were under the board. I most likely will be replacing the top side as well but first id like to play around with webman fan control

    I am running rebug cfw with webman, so i am wondering if anyone knows of a setting available where i can have the system start up in syscon, then after say 1 or 2 minutes, switch over to my webman fan control settings?
     
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    Fallen777

    Fallen777 Member

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    maybe you can disable webman mod and reboot. with console completely boot make a note of stock syscon temperatures than use webman mod
     

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