PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.

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    VTSTech

    VTSTech Member

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    It works! (After replacing the other top one)

    I've been in and out of it so many times thou, thermal paste is crap. Gonna give that another application and see how it does.

    UPDATE: CPU still running hot...but it's running. :) w\60% Fan it Idles at 72C.... lil hot for my taste but it seems stable so far.

    UPDATE2: Today it's idling at 61C, put a few more screws in it since I'm not gonna be inside it much now that it's working.

    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: Aug 14, 2019
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    Revak3115

    Revak3115 Forum Noob

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    Last edited: Aug 13, 2019
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Kornmeal

    Kornmeal Forum Noob

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    Yeah no it's totally toast, didnt realize how much I had damaged. Luckily, the system had only cost me $20...

    Fortunately, the one I just got in is a CECHA01, I'm gonna try some other more careful methods this time around, I was a bit too excited to get a better fix than something that would only last a few months.

    Any recommendations on how to remove the capacitors? Soldering iron still the best way?
     
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    Cypher_CG89

    Cypher_CG89 Senior Member

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    Your funny lad.... I don't watch really Horror films anymore as the modern ones are sh!t compared to the old ones> Nightmare on Elm Street, Friday the 13th, the shining etc. The only new one I remotely liked was the the new IT and even that is crap compared to the old one. Or the Silnet Hill films. Horror directors and writers have no imagination anymore and more or less copy eachother or rip off older films on one way or the other. And the Resident Evil films are more or less just action shoot'em ups but there ok.

    Also I hate Netflix ... it's sh!t lol.

    I have a horror film for you to watch live..... for free...... " The Mutalation of Snakes BC PS3's....:oie 19113229e8ymug9p:Cypher Strikes Back...." I think you would love to watch that.....:rolling::rolling::rolling:
     
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    Revak3115

    Revak3115 Forum Noob

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    So then this would be fine? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...2QGsKpvcg6n3J/lz87fU6nPnGx8n3wb4f6S/qCz5exA==
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Basically, is needed to overheat the area, the problem is that heat is dependant of how many metal is connected to the point you are heating
    In general... ground points needs more heat because the ground lines are always big areas of metal
    Here also the voltage lines are connected to lot of vias (holes) that tranfers the heat to the other side of the motherboard, and to internal layers (all made with copper)

    So yeah... i never did this myself, but just by looking at the images im sure it needs lot of heat, thats the tricky part

    Also, check some of the photos posted by people... it can be seen how some of the tokins was removed before the tin was completly melted... thats very risky because you can lift (or break) a copper trace by pulling from the tokins

    *This problem can be identifyed because it can be seen the shape of the tokin in the tin... it means the tin was not completly liquid

    You know... the materials have 4 states... liquid, solid, gas and plasma
    In betweem them there are intermediate states... like a "semisolid" where the tin is like a paste
    If you pull from the tokin when the tin is in "semisolid" state you dont know the results, the only safe way is to pull from it when the tin is completly liquid... but as mentioned before for some of you this is going to be hard to achieve because is needed lot of heat

    Tip: If you have 2 solder irons try use both together
    Tip2: Add lot of tin (and i mean... a lot) over the factory tin to change his melting point
    Tip3: Flux ftw

    Yes, is fine
    You are buying them in expensive brands and places btw, as i mentioned before (in general) the capacitors are not considered important components, and there is a wide range of values aceptable if need to replace one

    As example, you can replace a capacitor that originally was 5v by other with 12v, or a capacitor with 700uf by another with 1000uf... or both things together a capacitor originaly 5v @ 700uf by another with 12v @ 1000uf
    Im not sure if there is some exception to that, but i did it with monitors, tv's, PC power supplies and PC procesors, and my experience is that always works

    So... the point is... if you already have some capacitors at your home (recycled from other device or because you bought them time ago for other stuff but never used them) then is fine to try with different values (always bigger)
    But if you are going to buy them is better to match the factory values

    In this case the original voltage of the tokins is 2.5v so if you are going to buy them... yeah there is no doubt, 2.5v wins
    About the capacitance... well... in the way you are soldering them (4 tantalums for each tokin) you need to equal or surpass a total capacitance of 1200uf (because this was the original value of everyone of your tokins)... so you can do it with... 330uf * 4 = 1320uf
    Thats good enought, actually is a bit over the original 1200uf and thats fine

    But if you use 4 * 470uf = 1880uf
    Im not telling that doesnt works, we know it works, but is not needed, actually if you really want to use 470uf you can do it with 3 * 470 = 1410uf
    This will make the solder job easyer because you only need to solder 3 tantalum capacitors for every tokin... but again is not needed

    *Also keep in mind you have 4 tokins connected together for CELL.... and another 4 tokins for RSX, so when doing the calculations we need to multiply by 4 to get the total capacitance, as example, your PS3 from factory was using:
    1200uf + 1200uf + 1200uf + 1200uf = 4800uf for CELL
    1200uf + 1200uf + 1200uf + 1200uf = 4800uf for RSX

    And you was replacing them by:
    (4 * 470uf) + (4 * 470uf) + (4 * 470uf) + (4 * 470uf) = 7520uf for CELL
    (4 * 470uf) + (4 * 470uf) + (4 * 470uf) + (4 * 470uf) = 7520uf for RSX

    See the difference ? is huge 7520 - 4800 = 2720 extra (added by you, but not needed)

    In my oppinion the "hotspot" is in 2.5v @ 330uf ...one of the reasons is because are cheapests, to make this repair is needed to buy a bunch of them so this is important
    The 2.5v @ 470uf are fine though, all depends of how are you going to solder them... the suggestions made by littlebalup was interesting, there are several available :)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
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    cfreddykrueger

    cfreddykrueger Forum Noob

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    Has anyone else been watching YouTube videos watching people replace the Nec/Tokin capacitors on the Toshiba L330 and L730 laptops just to get a feel for what it will look like? Lol probably just me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    Soooooo....

    I screwed up... A bit.
    Removed 2 NEC from Cell, 2 from RSX.
    The last one I took off I guess I pulled a bit too hard and ripped the tracer off (no metal connection, just white PCB.
    20190818_064529.jpg

    But I at least had some practise and soldered 6 caps onto the other 2 NEC spaces.

    20190818_064536.jpg

    I'm wondering now though... As the NECs are wired in parralel, might I be able to solder onto the available tracers and not use the one I ripped off...?

    This has made me realise that my soldering skills are pretty poor haha
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yes, it should work, the trace you ripped is the line most at top-right corner in this photo i guess ?
    I painted it on top to see that are very big areas... in some of them is needed to scratch the green varnish to expose the copper, but there are a lot of "alternative" solder points
    Also, keep in mind if you flip the motherboard, at the other side you have pretty much the same
    [​IMG]

    Have you made some test about heights with the metal shield in his place ?, in the photos it looks the tantalum capacitors are a bit higher (because there was lot of solder in the copper before you started soldering them)
    To prevent that is good to use "desoldering braid" (or "desoldering wick", same stuff) to clean up the area before starting soldering
    [​IMG]
    Im posting a photo of a legit product (is not just copper, it has some powder in between the braid that does some chemical magic)... but you can do this for free at home with normal wires... you know is needed a wire like that, made with lot of thin threads... like the shielding used by the cables for TV antennas or things like that

    Edit:
    I mean... this kind of cables (typically used in TV antennas) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable
    The external shield (marked as B) is a braid of copper... and is pretty much the same than the "desoldering braid"
    If you have a cable like this at home you can use his braid to cleanup solder works... is not as good as the "desoldering braid", but it will work
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2019 at 4:56 AM
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    ps3specialist

    ps3specialist Forum Noob

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    I will not discuss the validity of this process as a repair, like he said everyone will try this at his own responsibility, he will not be liable of any damage or loss, what I wanted to say is that soldering is a skill not everyone has and it takes a lot to learn it , this process involves a lot of desoldering and a lot of soldering, I attached a picture of a motherboard we received from a customer just to show everyone an example of where this can end , this customer did not just lose the money he paid for the soldering iron, the solder, the flux, the solder wick and the capacitors, he also lost his motherboard that he had to buy another replacement for it for $175 so when you try this make sure you understand the cost and all the losses so there will be no regrets at the end. When a YouTube video surfaced more than ten years ago telling people they can fix their PS3 by using flux and heat gun a lot of people went out and bought flux and heat gun and they ended up with a lot of damaged beyond repair consoles, I wouldn’t overstate that the number of hear lost consoles was in millions, I don’t want this to happen again . Check the picture and good luck everyone that wants to try this.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 20, 2019 at 8:58 AM
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    littlebalup

    littlebalup Developer PSX-Place Supporter

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    My soldering test on dead mobo (always make tests and tests again before to proceed...) :

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I don't like the way I connected the jumper wire to the capacitors. I'll change that next time.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Not sure what you have in mind but imo there is not much room for improvements after that
    Good work, and good looking too :)
     
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    Revak3115

    Revak3115 Forum Noob

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    so i replaced my old 470uF 6.3V tantalums with 470uF 2.5v ones on my COK-001 Board. the system sometimes boots at works. i can get it to load up a ps2 iso and it will play fine. then i press the menu button to open the ps2 settings and the system artifacts heavily. i can continue to play the ps2 games (prob since its using HW not SW) then after seeing this mess i try and recreate it and the system froze at the upcalnig setting

    my ps3 is probably dead tbh or my soldering is bad
    either way i have spent too much time with this system
    i regret replacing all of the NECs since when i did 2 it ran fine
    now its almost paperweight at this point
    when the old tantalum shorted a few weeks ago thats probably when it died i assume something else damaged during that.

    anyways... maybe in the future i wont make the same mistakes and hopefully it will work later down the road
    im still hopeful about fixing it and maybe i will.. until then im closing the book on this repair for my CECHB01 system.
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    That is perfection right there. Well done.

    How did you connect the negative to the board? The caps are too long...?
     
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    littlebalup

    littlebalup Developer PSX-Place Supporter

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    I removed the varnis on top of the GND layer, with fine sandpaper.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    But... you can do it like this too (no need to remove varnish), electrically is the same
    [​IMG]
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    I had an idea of cutting a copper plate to act as a middle point between the ground on caps to the ground contact. Then I can solder the caps to the plate, then solder that whole thing to the board. Less chances of messing up the board that's way but more work
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    I thought in it too, but was harder to explain :D
    Yeah, if you find a sheet of copper you can cut 2 rectangles of it, then bend them in angle
    Thats in replacement of the 2 black lines i painted... it will work good

    That 2 black lines i painted was intended to be soldered using a wire like this btw... from a coil or something like that (or the wire at the core of the TV cables)
    [​IMG]

    Sometimes the tin doesnt attaches well to this kind of wires (specially if you took them from a coil because are varnished)... but you can hammer them, or deform the tips with plyers, or create scratches in the tips
    The point is... the tin attaches a lot better if the surface have imperfections... so is better to "damage" the wire

    And that wires i painted in black for ground doesnt needs a plastic shield btw, are going to be laying over more ground, so there is no risk of short circuits
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    I have some copper pipe, I can cut down the centre, unroll and jammer flat. Then I can cut that.

    Still waiting on some solder whick though
     

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