PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Usually people suggest Uncharted or The Last Of Us, but The Last Of Us, puts some strain on the Phats, unless you make a full replacement, that game will tax on the GPU power draw, which eventually will shutdown, so i would suggest Uncharted, or NFS Pro Street, which also taxes on the RSX making them a perfect candidates for partial replacements.

    Isolate thoes capacitors with some electrical tape, you are bound to have a short with the EMI Sheild if you leave them exposed like that.

    And please, do not add any more fans, the way it is its already fine, just keep your temps in check, and your console will last years of abuse.

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
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    AluCarD3939

    AluCarD3939 Forum Noob

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    AluCarD3939

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    what about heat, may the heat will melt the electric tape ? second thing why i should not mod the case for more air flow ?
    My plan was to make hole where the ps3 fan is and add 3 tiny fans from the side to suck more air inside.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    No, the heat inside the machine is no more than 40 to 50°Cs, the BGA Tape is only effective at high temperatures, that's between the range of 150~450°Cs,so at that temperature it's pretty much usless.

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    Bozo

    Bozo Forum Noob

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    Well sad news from me - I replaced 3 caps and the console would still do its thing: Turn on for 20 seconds and then ylod after which it wouldn't turn on unless it would be off for 6-8 hours. So i replaced the 4th cap (seemed promising, after opening it there were scorch marks inside) - 2 rsx caps, 2 cell caps. After that, the console stopped turning on, it just goes straight to ylod. I don't know whether i damaged something or what - i resoldered that last cap 2 times to no avail. I'm at my wit's end, I think it's time to say goodbye to this ps3.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Is not useless, is polymide/kapton tape, works great and it does the electrical isolation

    The problem of the normal electrical tape is not the plastic but the glue on a side of it, that glue degrades and becomes like liquid, and is very hard to clean it, is needed alcohol to remove the shitty glue
    When you stick the tape or in the next weeks looks ok, but take another look after 1 year of use having hundreds of cycles of heat up, heat down

    The polymide/kapton tape doesnt have this problem, the only problem of it is that is more expensive than the normal electrical tape, but not much (just dont buy the original kapton brand)
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019 at 10:45 PM
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    Bozo

    Bozo Forum Noob

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    Okay, I decided to take a look one last time, and it turns out i soldered 2 caps poorly. So i went and resoldered them, the console now turns on again, still with the same symptoms - turns on for like 20 seconds, then dies and dies. Do You guys think i should try replacing more caps?
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    I would advise, and say yes, but make sure you solder them properly.

    How many caps are you replacing on each NEC Tokin, and what uF?

    My advice, solder them in Parallel with the NEC/TOKINs, this will reinforce the current provided, and you'll avoid removing the original ones to create a big mess.

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    Bozo

    Bozo Forum Noob

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    I'm soldering four 477uF 6,3V caps per one NEC Tokin. Only one of the NECs has been replaced with 3 instead of 4 tantalum caps because i only ordered 16 caps for my first try and accidentaly broke off a contact on one.

    Also, how would would You go about soldering them in parallel? I have no idea how would I find any space for that. Wires?
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Hold on, you are solder 1 Tantalum per NEC!? Thats certainly not going to work, perhaps i misread the reply.

    Anyway, to solder them in Parallel is fairly easy, you just burn the NEC Plastic Shell a bit until you leave the positive contact exposed, for example by the tips, and solder them there, and then tge negative point you solder them to the ground points on the motherboard.

    This picture shall clear your doubts, if my explanation is a bit pathetic.

    [​IMG]

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    Bozo

    Bozo Forum Noob

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    Not at all, I'm soldering 4 tantalums per NEC, like this:

    upload_2019-9-14_18-57-43.png
     
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    AluCarD3939

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    I took for your advice and i taped the capacitors with Kapton tape.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Now the console running very good and i played God Of War 3 for like 20 mins and run great.

    Now i am worried from another issue, when i was testing the console, it was without the housing to check before i close it for sure.
    the other issue is the heat on the PSU (power supply) it was very hot when i was playing, since its on the top of the (CPU or GPU i am not sure :P).
    i checked the air flow from behind of the console, it was kick cold air and PSU is very hot, also the AC it was on and it was hitting directly on the console.
    [​IMG]
    why the heat is trapped only at PSU ? is that mean the heatsink is not transferring the heat from CPU/GPU since the air coming from behind is cold ?
    any suggestions ? modding the console to kick that heat ?
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yep, the hot air cummulates inside some PSU models, thats a problem
    To try to improve that ive seen some people that removed the top cover of the PSU, this way the air that is moving inside the whole console can circulate a bit inside the PSU

    Btw, the way how the air moves inside the PS3 fats is very weird, you can do the trick of using a cord of cotton (or a thin long paper), and hold it with your hand vertically, at the back of the PS3
    Also, while doing this test move the paper to the left of the PSU and to the right of PSU

    At low speeds the fan is "sucking" air from outise at left... and "pushing" air outside at right
    Is weird, this is why you feel the air cool... because a part of the air "sucked" is "pushed" out directly without doing his dissipation work
    Not sure how to fix that, but only happens at low fan speeds as far i remember

    When the fan enters in high speeds ranges is when it starts working fine and the fan stops "sucking" air from the back
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019 at 5:49 AM
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Yes, the PSU design is a bit to be desired, they'll run hot, but not as hot as the ZSSR5194A found in the early models, thoes run at a blistering 70°Cs,combined with it being a all metal model, plus touching the EMI Sheild is a bit of a disaster.

    The APS-231 its a great candidate for a Phat PSU replacement, assuming you have a compatible model, thoes being the CECHA/B/C/E/G.

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    Gehirnstaub

    Gehirnstaub Member

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    Oh boy thats some high quality tutorial. Too bad that I can't do things like this by my own. I'm still depressed that my DECHA00A has YLOD :-(
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    I thought thoes systems were Bulletproof, guess my leads were wrong

    But for a DECHA00A I would bite the bullet, its a special system worth getting it to run again.

    Why don't you ask a friend whom might be good at soldering? Perhaps someone can help you with your needs,worth checking.

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    SEGA-CD

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    Any thoughts on this comment I found on Reddit, Naked_Snake1995? It's in reference to your original post on this thread as well as the response to your fix by PS3 Specialist.

     
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    Chino Moreno

    Chino Moreno Forum Noob

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    Well mine worked to add to the validity. To answer my own question a few posts back, there is continuity, and both negative and positive sides are grounded after removing the 3 tokins on the slim. I dont know why that is.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    I see i am famous now on Reddit as well?

    But on a serious note, i clearly see the lack of testing and knowledge evolved in his response, which clearly doesn't live up to his reputation, but unlike him, i won't back-fire to him by cursing,ill just respond to your post, as clearly and polite as possible.

    Stating that the BGA package its the defective, its quite harsh, he doesn't even know if the Grid is good or not to begin with, also he states the YLOD its provoked by a dead GPU Chip, which its totally false, unless you have Artifacts or GLOD, RSX Replacement its totally unnecessary.

    I like how his lack of knowledge, reflects on his answer, by contradicting my "Why the TOKINs work under heat" by stating it only works because you disassembled the unit, and then put it back on, is it now? Last time i disassembled a unit, without changing anything, and put it back on it didn't alter a single thing, the machine was dead as the way it came, so more signs of lack of proper self-knowledge.

    He is just mad because someone thinks that reballing is the way to go, and then someone comes with a proper fix, and the community doesn't accept it, which is normal, but by judging by his badly constructed post, he its just another blind bat for me, and i don't blame him, let him be that way.

    I always make my Tutorials, with extensive research, and proper testing, so no mistakes or misinformation is spread, for people who think outside the box, and want to use my guide, as a repair, they're are more than free to do so, but for whom still believe that reballing is the way to go, i hope you have deep pockets, to cover a machine that its going to die anyway.

    Associating the XBOX360 Tower Trick to the PS3 its nothing but non-sense, the XBOX360 indeed had a BGA Issue, whereas the PS3 didn't, he clearly lacks the proper research on both machines.

    Also posting on Reddit is usually not the best place, dont bring a wise man to a room of sheeps, because eventually he'll become a sheep itself.

    By the way did some research on him, apparently he is the biggest Thief in the industry, reballing and stealing others peoples consoles, or they return inoperational, not to mention he charges 200$ plus to reball a machine, yep PS3 Specialist alright.

    He is simply pissed, because he spent tons of money on Reworking stations, and now a regular guy comes in, proving everyone wrong about reballing, making him loose is clientele.

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    Last edited: Sep 17, 2019 at 4:52 AM
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