PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

For the best result, yes replacement of all NECs its advised, the more NECs you get rid of the board the better, you can run them all with Tantalums, just don't forget to bridge each on like described in the guide, since by removing the NECs you are removing the internal jumper inside the NEC.

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My soldering skills are good enough to get me through, not professionally, but also i don't make a big mess, when you soldering you want to have the cleanest job possible.

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I might try to find a YLOD model with the warranty seal intact to try it out. Please report back your results, I and everyone else would be very interested in the results!

I've never believed the reball stuff because the system can die again in a matter of months, if it was truly a fix the systems would last. As far as I know that's a 360 issue and that's why people assumed the same with PS3. I always heard and believed that the internals of the chip itself warped due to the heating/cooling cycle because that's what happened to similar chips during the same era.

If a PS3 has the typical YLOD upon boot (turn on from stand by, go green for a couple seconds, then flash yellow for a brief second, finally blinking red until you turn off the system) is that a possible signifier of failed capacitors? Last I knew the capacitor failure was attributed to false YLOD when playing intensive games and YLOD after several minutes but I never delved too deep into this area.

 

Amazon, eBay or specialist electronics dealers would be your best bet.

 

There are results already shown, personally i fixed my CECHC04, other lads fixed models between the C04s to A01s and many others, the results has been positive so far.

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That's good to hear. Do you have any links to the systems others have fixed? I would love to read through some stuff.

 

The 360 used an ATI Chip, and ATI Chips from that era were known to have a Solder-Joint and Substrate issue, which also manifested into the XBOX360, the PlayStation3 on the otherhand never had any issues regarding Graphics Chips, the 7800s were pretty efficient in theyre own way,one problem they have,but its not really a concern, its the Substrate failure, like any other Graphics Chip,if its tortured to 80ºCs+, which is bound to show artifacts or even give the GLOD,which only a RSX replacement will fix it.

Remind that Microsoft only fixed this issue in the 65nm era, with the Jasper boards "i think", the original Xenons where prone to failure from day one, not to mention they rushed the console without any proper testing, they took a big hit in the process,but at least they managed, although a Sony loyal consumer, the XBOX 360 its a great console to won, it had its flaws such as the PC Style Disc drive,and the external power brick,not to menton HDD Encryption,but beyond that its a great console to won, had a S Model,but gave it to a friend, now i am searching for a Red "Resident Evil 5" Jasper 360,just because it looks good, not to mention Forza,still haven´t played thoes, but the Xbox One, oh dear,not touching that

 

I love the Original Xbox and the 360, I actually prefer the OG Xbox to the PS2 in many ways, part of me will never forgive Sony and the PS2 for pushing Sega out of the console market. Xbox One is I think best described as soulless, it has zero character and distinct attributes. I mainly use mine for the backwards compatibility. PS4 is definitely the best system this generation. I find the Switch to be overrated honestly, most of the games are ports that I already own on other platforms, even a lot of first party titles like MK8 and BOTW are available on Wii U. It's looking like this will change in the future though so maybe my opinion on it will change.

Back on topic though where did you get your capacitors? I couldn't find any though I admittedly didn't look too hard. Thinking about picking up a set to keep for the future in case I ever get the YLOD and maybe for a project system.

 

So I followed your repair, and it works despite my crappy soldering skills lol. Thanks again for this post, this is a really great contribution of info to the PS3 community and i'll be sure to use it to help bring back many dead systems.

I posted my results on reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/cff5hg/ylod_conclusion_capacitors_are_the_problem_not/

 

Good to know, i expect harsh responses, thats normal from people whom never heard of this, so ill expect people still defend reballing as definitive fix, but i am not to bothered about it, as long as people test it and report back, and do some research, all YLOD units can be brought back.

 

all of the endlesselectronics and gophermods reballed systems are dead at this point if that says anything lol

 

So i have a 20GB Backwards Compatible System. if the system is cooler then 60C it will crash in PS1 games with the YLOD or if i turn off the system with the power button/software-options, it will shut off then immediately do 3-beeps with no YLOD. if the system is warmer then 60C none of these issues seem to happen...(from my experience) when it hasn't been turned on for a week it will take 2 or more tries to power on the system without YLOD. so would this perhaps fix these issues i'm having?