PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    For the best result, yes replacement of all NECs its advised, the more NECs you get rid of the board the better, you can run them all with Tantalums, just don't forget to bridge each on like described in the guide, since by removing the NECs you are removing the internal jumper inside the NEC.

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    My soldering skills are good enough to get me through, not professionally, but also i don't make a big mess, when you soldering you want to have the cleanest job possible.

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
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    SEGA-CD

    SEGA-CD Forum Noob

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    I might try to find a YLOD model with the warranty seal intact to try it out. Please report back your results, I and everyone else would be very interested in the results!

    I've never believed the reball stuff because the system can die again in a matter of months, if it was truly a fix the systems would last. As far as I know that's a 360 issue and that's why people assumed the same with PS3. I always heard and believed that the internals of the chip itself warped due to the heating/cooling cycle because that's what happened to similar chips during the same era.

    If a PS3 has the typical YLOD upon boot (turn on from stand by, go green for a couple seconds, then flash yellow for a brief second, finally blinking red until you turn off the system) is that a possible signifier of failed capacitors? Last I knew the capacitor failure was attributed to false YLOD when playing intensive games and YLOD after several minutes but I never delved too deep into this area.
     
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    Cypher_CG89

    Cypher_CG89 Senior Member

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    Amazon, eBay or specialist electronics dealers would be your best bet.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    There are results already shown, personally i fixed my CECHC04, other lads fixed models between the C04s to A01s and many others, the results has been positive so far.

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
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    SEGA-CD

    SEGA-CD Forum Noob

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    That's good to hear. Do you have any links to the systems others have fixed? I would love to read through some stuff.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    The 360 used an ATI Chip, and ATI Chips from that era were known to have a Solder-Joint and Substrate issue, which also manifested into the XBOX360, the PlayStation3 on the otherhand never had any issues regarding Graphics Chips, the 7800s were pretty efficient in theyre own way,one problem they have,but its not really a concern, its the Substrate failure, like any other Graphics Chip,if its tortured to 80ºCs+, which is bound to show artifacts or even give the GLOD,which only a RSX replacement will fix it.

    Remind that Microsoft only fixed this issue in the 65nm era, with the Jasper boards "i think", the original Xenons where prone to failure from day one, not to mention they rushed the console without any proper testing, they took a big hit in the process,but at least they managed, although a Sony loyal consumer, the XBOX 360 its a great console to won, it had its flaws such as the PC Style Disc drive,and the external power brick,not to menton HDD Encryption,but beyond that its a great console to won, had a S Model,but gave it to a friend, now i am searching for a Red "Resident Evil 5" Jasper 360,just because it looks good, not to mention Forza,still haven´t played thoes, but the Xbox One, oh dear,not touching that :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
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    SEGA-CD

    SEGA-CD Forum Noob

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    I love the Original Xbox and the 360, I actually prefer the OG Xbox to the PS2 in many ways, part of me will never forgive Sony and the PS2 for pushing Sega out of the console market. Xbox One is I think best described as soulless, it has zero character and distinct attributes. I mainly use mine for the backwards compatibility. PS4 is definitely the best system this generation. I find the Switch to be overrated honestly, most of the games are ports that I already own on other platforms, even a lot of first party titles like MK8 and BOTW are available on Wii U. It's looking like this will change in the future though so maybe my opinion on it will change.

    Back on topic though where did you get your capacitors? I couldn't find any though I admittedly didn't look too hard. Thinking about picking up a set to keep for the future in case I ever get the YLOD and maybe for a project system.
     
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    Sampsonay

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Good to know, i expect harsh responses, thats normal from people whom never heard of this, so ill expect people still defend reballing as definitive fix, but i am not to bothered about it, as long as people test it and report back, and do some research, all YLOD units can be brought back.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
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    whoisthis123

    whoisthis123 Forum Noob

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    all of the endlesselectronics and gophermods reballed systems are dead at this point if that says anything lol
     
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    Revak3115

    Revak3115 Forum Noob

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    So i have a 20GB Backwards Compatible System. if the system is cooler then 60C it will crash in PS1 games with the YLOD or if i turn off the system with the power button/software-options, it will shut off then immediately do 3-beeps with no YLOD. if the system is warmer then 60C none of these issues seem to happen...(from my experience) when it hasn't been turned on for a week it will take 2 or more tries to power on the system without YLOD. so would this perhaps fix these issues i'm having?
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    My suggestion is to buy then in places like aliexpress, if you have an account is awesome to buy electronics components, the prices are awesome, and usually free shipping
    Ebay is a good place to buy electronics components too
    Dealextreme for some stuff

    For the quality i would not matter much... low cost manufacturers are ok, and is better to buy a "bag" of them
    The rule to follow is a new capacitor (even of the lowest quality) is much better than a capacitor weared out (even if it was of the best quality)
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    I will try China stores
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    @Naked_Snake1995
    You mention the required tantalum specs here:

    Are these figures ranges? So uF rating between 330 and 470 and voltage between 2.5 and 6.3?
    Is there a specific rating that is better over another?
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    China's are the best sometimes for electronics :encouragement:

    When i was talking with Naked_Snake1995 about this i was taking a look at aliexpress to try to find the cheapest ones... and there was 2 or 3 announces with a bag of them (dont remember if it was 30 or 50 units) for 6$ or so and free shipping

    Thats the kind of offer you should try to find, because for a good repair is needed to replace all the tokins (just incase)

    If someone wants to go really cheap you should try to replace first the tokins related with RSX (because are more prone to failure)... and later the tokins for CELL incase is needed

    But as said... the good repair is to replace all the tokins... because all them are working at all times... if you have one (or a couple) damaged most probably the others are about to become damaged
    To prevent that is better to replace all them
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

    Fin9ersMcGee Moderator

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    WOW!! Only $6, amazing deal. I will search deep, my first skim over Ebay and local electronics suppliers came to a whopping £30, so $6 is worth hunting down
     
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    Fin9ersMcGee

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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Yep, is a big difference if you buy them in lots
    I dont remember how many are needed right now, this depends of the capacitance in uf units btw... are connected in paralell so you need to sum them to find the total capacitance

    In some PS3 models the tokins from factory are 1200uF (PS3 fat) and in others are 1000uF (Slim)
    You need to equal or exceed this value by the total sum of the new tantalum capacitors

    If you do it with tantalum capacitors of 330uf each... you will need more... but are cheaper as far i know

    This is one of the announces we was commenting in private
    https://es.aliexpress.com/popular/330uf-tantalum-capacitor-smd.html

    The magic words (for a succes search) are:
    330 tantalum capacitor smd

    Try to search for that (and eventually the word "lot" too)
     
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