Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.
Great idea! will try that, Thanks. I agree, looks more messy now that I take another look.
I put 16x 330uf capacitors (RSX & CELL) and as soon as I turned on my PS3 one of the tantalum capacitors burst.
The multimeter is reporting continuity between (GND and V Out) in this area in red.
you have to make sure the legs on the caps are not touching together when it soldered in
Thanks for the tip. Even removing the solder and all tantalum capacitors the whole region in red has continuity. I checked the trails below the nec tokins and they are all perfect. Would any shorted component cause this continuity in this area?
Also check closely to the two pads nearest to the rx/cpu as it look like they are connected in the picture
You have to use flux while soldering or desoldering the tin and clean up the gaps closest to rsx/cpu as there should be no bridging between the gap if you look at my picture a few pages back on this you see the green line between v-in/v-out and ground it clear of solder tin.
For testing with dmm (multimeter) connect the probe on v-in and the other touching v-out to see if the circuit is open or close set the mutlimeter to arrowplus icon to see what the reading said on all the v-in/v-out
I checked the pads and visually they are very clean not connected, only dmm detects this short. The photo has light reflection and it looks like the pads are connected.
I did the test between v-in and v-out and got reading in dmm, no short or buzz.
Later, I'll post closer pictures.
@Alisson Then you have to consider that one of caps on the underside of the board is fried and might cause a short. If you haven't removed them already of course?
In your case I'd make sure to stay at the 2.5V voltage rating for the caps just in case the problem is that you're receiving over voltage from the PSU or similar.
Here some pics.
I removed all capacitors on both sides. The short persists in that area.
In the cleaning process I ended up damaging this area in the red circle.
That damage area is perfectly fine as long it not connected to anything else it fine. that a pretty clean soldering job you done on the board. what is your mutli meter brand and can you take a picture of what mode it on and reading on v-in/v-out conencted together
V-in - V-out (Left)
GND - V-out (Right) - Short
@Edwired Was reading your posts a few pages, did you have the same problem or is this short normal?
that look good and reverse the probe and post the image.
I had the same problem but i figured it was fine as i wasnt sure what setting to check during testing lol
I had similar reading it fine no short at all maybe the cap you solder in that blew could be faulty have you spare cap to replace the blown one
I can't wait for my tantalum caps to arrive (takes quite a long time to receive stuffs in Africa from China) so I can fix my CECH-2003A that's been shutting off during games for sometime now.
For the moment, I'll continue following this thread and keep enjoying the success you guys are achieving.
SO it seems sony did some sort of cheaping out on these nec tokin
any process on your ps3 yet?
Ordered new tantalum capacitors. Next week I'll post the result.
yeah cool mine will be in till Thu, 24 Oct - Mon, 16 Dec from MALAYSIA POST
Good luck with the repairs lads, my Back-Compat Girl its still going strong, pouring more than 6h a day on it, after 6 60Gbs PS3s YLOD on me for these past years, i can say this 7th unit its a lucky charm, hope it stays that way
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Very clean NEC/Tokin removal on those latest pics! Looks like they were never there.
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