PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    NEC/TOKIN wants to know your location
    Just to clarify i didn't put any Tantalums once I removed the NECs on the L04, just wanted to test if it would boot without them, and test if the Negative Area could be extended to better facilitate the NECs instalation.

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    demetris

    demetris Member

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    Yes that's normal.

    Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
     
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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Forum Noob

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    Man, what, if this does not fix my ylod? I mean, I replaced 2 NECs and nothing changed... I hope, I haven't switched up + and - :/
     
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    demetris

    demetris Member

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    The white line is the + on them and the external
    Lines are the + on the tokins everything else are -

    Mine have the + sign on the white line. Check it out.(attached)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2020
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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Forum Noob

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    Ok, now I changed 3 of them and nothing. Still almost directly YLOD. I was removing the 4th, what happened? I f***ing launched one of the SMD caps ... I managed to even find and solder it, but boy, was this hard
     

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    Shinichi Kudo

    Shinichi Kudo Forum Noob

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    Hi squeept, I haven't seen that video since your Youtube account was deleted already by the time I got around to it.

    But I'd like to know how you connected the motherboard to the oscilloscope, since AFAIK you have to put the metal shield on to put the heatsink on to boot the system (talking about the fat PS3)

    ESR varies with frequency too apparently so maybe that's an avenue...
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Ill save you the enigma, he didn't, basically he attached the Motherboard to a board base, slapped two Square-AMD Heatsinks, secured by a bottle of beer and another thing I don't remember to make weight, and used a air vacuum to extract the hot air, from the heatsinks.

    He's YouTube is deleted, Reddit as well, even his Instagram got wacked, i guess that reflects all of it, with a attitude like that i didn't expect much to be honest.

    Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
     
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    Edwired

    Edwired Member

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    Jeez what happening lately like there"s murder on the dance floor lololol squeept at it again look dude ya trying hard again I get it ya want to be hard pressed about actual hard evidence been produced than deleting everything along the way. Look you want to have a brand new ps3 never opened then compare to the old ylod applied ps3 that why comparing would show or revealed the number not everythiing is bga related if the graphic is corrupted it the chip at fault but if graphic is not corrupted it not chip related it something else jeez how many times is this going to carry on like. Since the NEC tokin testing I have done awhile back does show the NEC tokin with low value uf reading is generally dying if you compare it to a brand new NEC tokin that have high value uf you see the result there but you still fixated with the whole bga business. I gave ya simple advice before but you continued to ignore everyone
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2020
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    squeept

    squeept Member

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    Just made a little modification to a power supply so it has wires sticking out that I can plug in to the board while it is off to the side. Anyone else that doesn't have extra power supplies laying around can do it by just putting their fan and heatsink shroud back on without the two part aluminum case. Put some heavy foam or some wadded up cloth underneath the center of the clamps so they don't touch or crush anything and they have something to press against to apply a little pressure. Throw something else under the power supply so you don't short anything. Voila.

    ESR in datasheets and meters should always be measured at 100 kHz I think. edit: oh, you mean that there is a curve that could be all messed up? Sure, that's why I've now moved on to the scope as the only check that means anything.

    Yeah, I've contributed nothing at all. I totally didn't just provide a 100% ACCURATE AND SIMPLE WAY TO DIAGNOSE WHETHER A TOKIN HAS FAILED. Anyone here can reproduce it and share their results. I mean, I know you've been bluffing that you know what you're talking about this whole time, but are you really that scared of people being able to actually diagnose the problem? I've been BEGGING people to diagnose things, and providing ways to do it at every turn. Why do you keep fighting against that? Don't you want everyone here to know how right you are?

    I have no idea what you're trying to say.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2020
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    Edwired

    Edwired Member

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    Ya doing it again without hard evidence where you said you not posting more information since all words no action shame
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    I am not saying that you didnt contribute at all, i acknowledge that you did, and good on you, now thats not what i am discussing here, what i am discussing,but you seem that never got the full picture, is coming in here with that plain arrogance of yours, and play the double-edge card, the victim and the hero, i dont need that kind of attitude in here.

    How could ive been bluffing this whole time, and be scared that people actually diagnose the problem, i am glad that this issue is even being diagnosed, honestly i dont care about being right or wrong, when i know i am wrong, i always acknowledge it, lying and making myself the center of all attentions is not my speciality, what do i have to gain with a attitude like that?

    I am not fighting nothing against reballing, nor i am excluding it, there are times that the PS3 does indeed need a reballing, but whats been the fuss all this time is the link between Reballing and PS3s,just because the 360 had a serial flaw,doesnt mean the PS3 is the same, i think is time to blow that reballing bubble, and put the head to earth.

    I like how you keep bringing Rossmann out in the wild, at least he sounds more honest than you, but i know what you mean, about his reballing video, although he was speaking logicaly and truthly, i have to be skeptical on a few points he made, although he clearly stated that there are legitimate use for Reballing, but not to repair a failed Graphics Chip,but in this case is mostly Graphics Card and PCs, at least he doesnt rant about it,that by not doing something that is playing a blind-card,which can eventually fail the next day, is ruining his business, the only one ive heard about ranting is PS3Specialist, but thats a whole different topic.

    In short, unless you change that attitude of yours, you wont have our ears, and our respect, we keep telling you that, this is a community, not a kindergarden, want to contribute with your analisis and diagnostics, and you have better equipament than anyone of us here, you are more than welcome to continue your support, now comming in here,and starting beef, i am sorry but that wont cut it, we are not work colleagues, or attended the same school, so show some proper respect for the members in here, not all are willing to tolerate your attitude.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2020
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    wrx884 Member

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    LOL i just dont get why this dipshits still getting all high and mighty when apparently all he has done is "possibly" confirm what this thread is all about? dude like what the F***? ur not arguing against anyone other than ur drunk self? do u need friends? we can all be friends here if u need to talk to someone when u get lonely haha.

    all jokes aside Edwired does have a point i guess, since u accused us of not believing u anyways, so why not just stir the pot and go along with it and say how do we know u even baked these caps? how do we know u didnt use same said caps in the screen shots? hmmm deleting stuff is a sure way of assuming ur hiding something ;)

    My money is on now this has been getting more exposure viral he just doesn't wanna look like the right tool that he has been and be found, pointed and laughed at by everyone who sees it, guess that would hurt business rep huh?
     
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    pure3d2

    pure3d2 Forum Noob

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    I spent the whole day yesterday reading this thread from start to finish and have learned a lot. I have a CECHA here which works, but I haven't tested it with any games yet. I bought it from a neighbor a few years ago and then left it in my closet since I bought it. It looks a little dusty so I'll take it apart and clean it this weekend.

    I bought a YLOD/RLOD CECHE from eBay a few days ago that I'm hoping replacing the NEC/TOKINs with tantalums will bring it back to life.

    Very entertaining to see a particular poster say he's done responding but still comes back with new posts. :biggrin:
     
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    Edwired

    Edwired Member

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    Only way we all going to settle this mess is to sit down and discuss this as a group as there is no I in the team that how i see it.
     
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    marciolsf

    marciolsf Forum Noob

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    Yeah, I mean, the goal is to get our PS3's running! I don't have a problem with squeept trying to provide more info, but it's hard to parse it out when he buries it in contempt for everyone here. I think there are a few things that we don't quite understand... at least I don't, anyway:
    • Why are all the areas around tokins shorted out? Several of us have noticed that, and it makes it really tricky to test for after the replacement. Is that a tell-tale sign of other issues, maybe caps running out of spec?
    • Someone got a ps3 to power up without all of the tokins? If I read that right, that could be a sort of test for the state of the remaining tokin's capacitance
    Im sure there's more, but it's early and I haven't had my energy drinks yet...
     
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    ps3xbox

    ps3xbox Member

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    Yes count me in
    I would like to know also

    I need some help with My console
    Help people
    Thanks again
     
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    Edwired

    Edwired Member

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    Your asking for trouble here
     
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    Shinichi Kudo

    Shinichi Kudo Forum Noob

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    I replaced all Tokins on my CECHC04, and it still doesn't work, but the startup behaviour is different. Before, the fan would spin up immediately and 3 beeps, 3 beeps. Now, it takes longer until the fan spins up, and then I just get 3 beeps (once).

    How can I troubleshoot this now? The only thing I can think of is that I knocked off C6251 while trying to remove a Tokin, it's a small capacitor underneath the RSX (0.1microF, 10V). But I don't think that could be it... there are many other capacitors that do its job.

    Actually, why is it impossible to find a manual that decodes the beeps and flashing lights? The service manuals don't mention it at all.
     
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    demetris

    demetris Member

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    If it had a reflow before you need a reball

    Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
     
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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Forum Noob

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    Hey guys, I am running into issues, as changing the 4 NECs on the back side did not help me. Could it be that the wires I am attaching are too thin? Is there a high current flowing here? I will try 1,5 mm² Wires now, however, the pins of the Caps I am soldering are very thin too, so, will this even make a difference?
    I would buy the tantalums, if I only knew that the PS3 will definetly work, but I got nothing till now so I am very unsure...

    PS: Or, do I have to fully assemble the ps3 again? I am always testing with only the PSU and the Touch bar in place. Not even the FAN is plugged in...
     

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