PS3 Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Jul 15, 2019.

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    pure3d2

    pure3d2 Forum Noob

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    This guy used electrolytic caps and they worked, but he replaced them with tantalums in a later video:
     
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    Luisile

    Luisile Member

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    Ok guys i have at home currently an 2004b with delayed ylod. i dissassemblend it and preheated the gpu necs with heatgun. on cpu there are not nec so dont worry about that. i assembled it again and the bloody thing wors for now. so question is should i change the two necs on gpu side or under?
     
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    demetris

    demetris Member

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    Then don't use fake or badly made capacitors as this guy. Personally i only use Panasonic's Rubicon's Nippons and NCC as a replacement capacitors. Everything else is a gamble with luck.
    So as a general rule dont go cheap or go home.


    Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
     
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    demetris

    demetris Member

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    Yes by your report changing the tokins will fix it. Do the ones that are easier to remove with less small parts around to knock off.

    Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
     
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    SiegHart93

    SiegHart93 Member

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    Indeed dude change the 2 necs on the board where rsx and cell are not present ! that should fix ur problem inmediately
     
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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Member

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    Well, it depends. I bought it with the factory seal intact, so, no one before me reflowed. However, as I had no succes whatsoever, I tried to at least heat up the area a bit, up to 200 °C, but not for very long, I gave the idea up pretty quickly. If it wont help to solder these 20 tantalum caps, I will try to reball the RSX I guess :/
     
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    JD21

    JD21 Forum Noob

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    I have three C02 phats and they all have 1 second or instant YLOD, on one the GPU HIS was removed and the GPU is clearly fried brown, but the other two have their HIS on, they were all previously opened unfortunatly, I don't think recapping will fix this? What are the common causes of 1 second or instant YLOD?
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2020
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    blckbear_

    blckbear_ Member

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    I recently purchased a CECHG unit and it YLoDs instantly, the unit has been opened before.
    It still has all the NECs, so I'm hoping that's the issue, but it also has the back grills molten as if someone attempted the hairdryer method before. If anyone that knows best could tell me their opinion I'd really appreciate it, thanks!
     
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    demetris

    demetris Member

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    My opinion is this: try the tantalums and if that doesn't fix it sell it to someone that can reball it

    Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
     
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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Member

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    Yeah, thats the plan :)
    Can I reball with hot-air-gun? I don't have anything else. Well, a heatgun, but, not an adjustable one. And a soldering iron, but this isn't suitable either.
     
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    pure3d2

    pure3d2 Forum Noob

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    Would this be considered an instant YLOD or 3-second YLOD?

     
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    JD21

    JD21 Forum Noob

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    2 - 3 second.
     
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    squeept

    squeept Member

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    It's been a long time since I had to do the math on something like this, but I'm guessing those electrolytics essentially aren't even in the circuit at the switching frequency when they're half and half like that. If bad TOKIN caps were actually the issue, it worked because he removed the bad TOKIN caps, not because he added the new parts.

    My sample size is now 2, but it's the only 2 that I would call confirmed. Heating the caps does nothing, and heating the chips can easily do something. At best the heat test is meaningless, at worst it means you have a chip or BGA issue. I'm going to continue screaming that point until someone else with a scope says differently. Or someone can show me any documentation anywhere of a polymer cap coming back to life from heat.

    There's a $40 standalone scope on aliexpress. There's a $60 USB scope on Amazon. Just buy it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2020
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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Member

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    Is there a good tutorial on how to use a scope? I would love to learn it
     
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    squeept

    squeept Member

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    hoyohoo

    hoyohoo Member

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    Hey, I am relatively new to this osci-topic. Mind to help me? Where do I have to make the measurement? I mean, where goes the positive and negative of the probe?
     
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    marciolsf

    marciolsf Member

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    Here's another good introduction --

    And here's one on what NOT to do -
     
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    Bl1nk

    Bl1nk Forum Noob

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    Hello i'm new to the forum i just created my account, i'm brazilian, my english is not very good i apologize for any mistake, i have a ps3 cechp that presents ylod, it takes a while to turn off, it turns on the light hd and sometimes the image (before it entered the xmb, but I think after so many attempts to turn it on and then turn off, the hd ended up corrupting and asks to connect the control with a usb cable but I'm without mine, but that is another case) in Brazil there is a forum that debates ylod a lot, but I ended up reading some information here on psx place about soldering capacitors in parallel, I ordered 8 tantalum capacitors from 470 microfarads and wanted to solder them in parallel, however I don't have much welding experience and I wanted some tips on how to do the process
     
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    squeept

    squeept Member

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    Probe goes on the side of the TOKIN facing the CPU or GPU. The patch of vias between the TOKIN and the chip on either side of the board are easiest.

    [​IMG]

    Ground clip goes.... on ground! Easiest is the exposed copper that runs the entire edge of the board.

    You should now see 1 of 3 signals. The baseline from 20 some pages ago, the bad TOKIN waveforms from like 2 pages ago, or some weird ass data signal that I think means you have a dead chip.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2020
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    Bl1nk

    Bl1nk Forum Noob

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    man I'm sorry but I couldn't quite understand what you said can you explain it to me in a simpler way?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 24, 2020

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