PS3 «Tutorial» PS3 CELL B/E Thermal Dissipation without removing the IHS

Discussion in 'Tutorials & Guides' started by Naked_Snake1995, Mar 19, 2019.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Like many other users, and collectors, keeping you console clean its the number 1, priority, specialy when you own a Backwards-Compatible PlayStation3, which its a very neat machine to own, but can bring problems in the long run if not mantained properly.

    One of the main concerns for any user, its replacing the thermal paste, after years of use, changing its essential for any console, but even thats not enough. So more experienced users, always remove the Integreated Heat-Spreaders from the RSX, which its a walk in the park, but when moving to the CELL Broadband Engine,its a different story.

    Removing the CELL B/E, requires special tools, and cutting precision, but even more experienced users, and with the right tools, can go bad in a blink of an eye.

    I myself, practiced with a couple of 90nm COK-002 boards, with some painters knifes size (1) and (3), but even with the most patience in the world, ended up scratching 5 examples, almost in the same spot.

    So not worth taking a working board to have the same result,ive decided to search deep into some archives, and lord and behold, the solution that i am sure will work for anyone struggling with deliding the CELL B/E.

    This procedure was preformed on a PlayStation3 CECHC04 with the mainboard COK-002,but it will work on the models mentioned below in this tutorial.

    The goal with this tutorial, its for the CELL B/E Core to make contact with the IHS, as the paste inside its practically dry, with years of use, by making a bigger area of heat transfer, eliminating the need to delid the CELL B/E and take risks in damaging the whole system.


    THINGS YOU WILL NEED:

    *Office Eraser (White) - "soft erasers won´t work!"
    *Knife or Scissors

    *Good Pair of Eyes
    *Patience


    APPLICABLE MODELS:

    *PHAT - CECHA/B/C/E/G/H/K/L/P
    *SLIM - CECH-20XX/21XX/25XX

    Side Note: Sony corrected this design flaw, with the preceding models (CECH-30XX and 40XX), so the CELL B/E is soldered to the IHS, pretty much like AMD CPUs, which gives them a thermal advantage and a good area of dissipation, so if you own one of these models, this tutorial will be pretty much usless, but you are always welcome to try!


    STEP-1:

    Disassembly your PlayStation3,until you reach to the mainboard.

    STEP-2:

    Take your Office Eraser, and cut a piece of it, now for the PS3 Phat Models, the optimal measurements are between 3.3/3.5mm, and for the PS3 Slim Models 3mm of thickness, will get the job done.

    Once you cut the exact same thickness, cut it to fill the CELL B/E empty CPU hole, with the mainboard facing up, you will need to be careful with the CPU capacitors on the Slim Models, so for that,cut the sides of the rubber to cover the smaller capacitors, and not the bigger ones. "CELL B/E Diagram for the Eraser cut, on the example below".

    STEP-3:

    Once you cut your eraser flat and to the right measurements, replace the thermal paste, and reassembly the whole system, making sure that the CPU Clamps are tight,as they will make pressure with the CELL and the heatsink!

    Done these procedures, inspect your CELL Temps,if you notice any improvements, congratulations, you successfully did the procedure with ease, if you didnt notice any improvements, make sure you cut the erased properly or increase the thickness!

    Q&A:

    Q1 - Are any risks envolved, when doing this procedure?


    A1- No, this its a risk free procedure, follow the instructions and you are golden!

    Q2- Wont the eraser, by appling pressure with the clamps, on top of the CPU, damage the CELL or the BGA?

    A2- No, the eraser will create, pressure thowards the chip, and it will be compensated with the PS3 heatsink, so you are creating an even pressure, but enough that the CELL Core touches the IHS, thus making heat transfer and cooling more efficient!

    Q3- After the procedure, did you notice any changes in temps?

    A3- Yes, without the eraser, my CPU would be around 71ºC at idle, and that was with fresh thermal paste at almost 40% Fan, today after the procedure,was sitting at 63ºC also with 40% Fan, after the procedure was done, its sitting to a threshold on 55/57ºC at 31% Fan, one thing to notice its that i havent changed the thermal paste, nor i had enough when i preformed this, but i am sure with clean thermal paste these results can be improved :)

    Q4- Wont the eraser catch fire or burn with the heat?


    A4- Dont worry, the eraser wont catch fire, rest assured with that, its non-conductive and heat resistant,making the perfect candidate :D

    Q5- Why this procedure wont work on CECH-30XX and CECH-40XX?

    A5- Sony corrected this design flaw, with the preceding models (CECH-30XX and 40XX), so the CELL B/E is soldered to the IHS, pretty much like AMD CPUs, which gives them a thermal advantage and a good area of dissipation, but this tutorial aims to replicate the same effect as a soldered CPU to the IHS!


    CELL.jpg

     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    Nice. Will be trying this in a couple of hours for sure and report back
     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    school-rubber-icon-eraser-office-tool-vector-17246259.jpg images.jpeg

    Which type do you recommend between these 2?
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    The Stabilo eraser, its the office eraser as i mentioned in the post, its the best to use to the flat surface
     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    IMG_20190313_202736.jpg IMG_20190319_200240.jpg

    Well I'll be fucked if it doesn't work. God damn what a change!
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    I see the results are pretty satisfactory for you?

    Did you left the original thermal paste or you changed it?

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    Had to change it since I accidentally took the mobo out of the heatsink+fan chassis half, the paste was less than a week old though so eh
     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    ah, another thing that could be added to the OP, bending the clamps a little could also help make the chips better contact the heatsinks
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    The claps are good the way they are, but a little bending never hurt anyone, and besides the eraser underneath already creates a bump for the CELL clamp, so imo there is no need to add more stress to the board. Although PS3 boards are thick, enough to stop a 50°Cal in it has too

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    skydragon88

    skydragon88 Member

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    Hm I have got to try this for cechb01 and ceche01 as their temperature are very much the same, so room temps about 27°c let the system idle in xmb to 10min and cell 67°c rsx59°c and auto fan in webman set at 67°c and low fan setting at 32%, last I have my cecha01 at 61°c and rsx 56°c, low fan setting at 28% and auto at 67°c all test done the same and console sat at same place to get good results. It's very odd yet cool that my cecha01 run almost cool as my 2101a slim.
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    But to make an accurate comparison you need to take 2 temperature samples at a "stable" point, and that point needs to be the same

    Is hard to explain, and there are many ways to do it (so you can imagine your own way), but lets say...
    1) start from ambient temperature (for this is needed to have the PS3 turned off several hours before starting the test)
    2) turn on the PS3
    3) wait 10 minutes in XMB without doing anything
    4) take the temperature sample

    -----------
    And repeat the same after the mod to compare
    -----------

    My favourite is this though:
    1) start from ambient temperature
    2) turn on the PS3
    3) enter inside a homebrew app with temperature display (rebug toolbox, multiman, irisman, etc...)
    4) wait 30 minutes inside the app
    5) take the temperature sample

    -----------
    The reason why i like this way is because you can take several samples every X minutes (one at 5 minutes, other at 15, and other at 30)
    Also, because the homebrew app itself have a bit of workload (less than a game, but a lot more stable than a game)
    And i suggest to wait 30 minutes because in my experience the temperature continues increasing after 30 minutes... very slow but increasing
     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    Dude, before it peaked at 78°C with fan at 95% 1 minute after startup, now it reaches 65° with fan at 40% after 35 minutes. I'd definitely call that an improvement
     
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    Cosmic-R

    Cosmic-R Forum Noob

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    i did this on my 3k ps3 (so i dont think it was solved on 3k either maybe on super slims) but instead of erasers i ussed bussiness cards cut up about the size of the square thats on the back plate and was about 2 or 3 mm thick cant remember

    i saw an improvement in temps imediately going from the fan speeding up imediately on boot of GTA5 to about 20 minutes and the fan speeds goees to the 1st speed thats loud, doesnt go above it even playing GTA Online all day.

    whats weird is that SKYRIM its the only game that doesnt make the fan speed go up the the 1st loud one it stays quiet with that one, and the fans speed wont go back down unless i remove the top cover of the ps3

    other than that the other thing was that the plastick cracking noise as it heats up and cools down was more noticeable. i did this like a year or two ago

    since i am on OFW i cant see the temps, the closest i got to that was the PS3xploit template that had a template or command (cant remember what's called) already done to check temps and the RSX was like 4c hotter than CELL but i dunno if thats accurate
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2019
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Oki :D
    But the point is we dont know how much exactly the temperature was reduced

    Now is a bit late, but you could take another photo in the same conditions of the other photo you made before with CPU=75ºC and RSX=44ºC
    -starting from ambient
    -1 minute after startup
    -the same fan settings you was using before
     
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    Spawn

    Spawn Member

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    Another question is the effects of this in the long run.
    Does it affect the components inside in any way?
    Since we put pressure, so to say, on the IHS to make better contact; could this lead to deformation in the long run?

    I really love the idea and it's sooo simple. I'm just opening the possibility for discussion about long term effects.
     
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    Cosmic-R

    Cosmic-R Forum Noob

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    i did a variation of this in mine about 2 years ago but in mine the pressure is in a greater area

    [​IMG]
    see those 2 squares with the 4 dots on the left ? i put the layered business cards directly on the motherboard right where those 2 go about the size of those squares and i saw the improvements i mentioned on my previous post
    the other version i saw of this included washers but that one didnt give me much confidence (i had fears of cracking the motherboard with that one) so i chose paper instead because it gave in a little, 2 years and still working although i havent disassembled completely in that time. thats a fat console shielding but picture this on a slim, its the same
     
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    Spawn

    Spawn Member

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    I think it would be great with some pictures in the OP. Specifically on where to put the eraser.

    The pictures provided, could be misread as to put the eraser under the IHS, even tho the tutorial itself says no.
     
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    kadorna2

    kadorna2 Member

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    While I do agree with the "more pictures" point, I think the pics in the OP are pretty clear. There's a hole in the motherboard that shows the capacitors in the underside (aka the solder side) of the CELL chip. You literally cannot mistake that for anything else in the motherboard.
     
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    skydragon88

    skydragon88 Member

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    Found a teardown video of a cechc04 ps3 and it appear some console has this fix from the factory (forward to 7:43min mark)
     
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    Spawn

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    I'm gonna give it a go today. ATM I'm checking the temps on my PS3 2004a. I'm waiting 25 more mins, before taking a screenshot, then I'll repeat the process after the "fix".

    Here's the temps before applying the "fix" with fresh thermal paste (MX2, also have MX4 and Arctic Silver 5 if needed).
    IMG_20190322_151753.jpg

    And here's after applying the "fix".
    IMG_20190322_151753.jpg

    Final test show the same.
    IMG_20190322_233342.jpg

    New day, new test.
    IMG_20190323_085312.jpg

    Well, it did diddely squat for me :(
    Made the eraser 10mm x 15mm x 3mm and placed it according to the picture in OP.

    Guess it doesn't apply to ALL PS3's. :(
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2019

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