PS3 (Fault Finding) Wifi/Bluetooth failure leading to dead console PS3 Super Slim

DonKeballs

DonKeballs

Member
Console: PS3 Super Slim CECH43xx

So I thought I'd share the experience I had with my PS3 failing. I will first detail the symptoms, then I hope to find the cause and finally (hopefully) repair the fault.

I will continue to update this post as I progress.

Symptoms:

The fault first started with the controllers not connecting wirelessly to the PS3. I continued to play for several more days using a wired connection with no problems. I should mention that the wifi was still working fine.

After several days the console started to randomly shut itself down. These shut downs became more and more frequent until eventually it shut down never to turn on again. Not even a red standby light.


Cause:

Having consulted Dr Google I soon found that Bluetooth/Wifi faults are fairly common on slim/super slim units where the wifi/bluetooth module is integrated onto the motherboard as opposed tho the phats where it is a separate, removable module.

It seemed logical that a fault in that area would be responsible for my dead PS3 considering that it was my Bluetooth that first failed.

I proceeded to dismantle the PS3 in order to carry out some fault finding.

I found the following videos useful:



In the videos it appears that a short in the wifi/bluetooth circuits is causing the fault (console won't turn on/no standby light).

Upon Carrying out continuity checks on my faulty super slim and a working spare I have (exact same model), I found the following.

Working PS3:


Working PS3.jpg


Faulty PS3:


Faulty PS3.jpg



As you can see, there is a short somewhere in the region of the wifi/bluetooth module which is likely why my PS3 won't turn on. Something likely detects this short and prevents it turning on.

It should be noted that I have checked the PSU on my spare PS3 and it is working.


I also found the following thread useful: https://www.psx-place.com/threads/w...update-loop-diagnostics-reports-repair.26865/

The thread above seems to suggest that a faulty voltage regulator could have lead to a component failure on my board which is now causing a short and preventing my PS3 from turning on.

Question:

As the console isn't stuck in a bootloop and I don't use the wifi and I'm ok using a wired controller connection, am I right in saying that I don't necessarily need to replace the wifi/bluetooth module (if it were the cause of the short) but rather just remove the short from the board by perhaps removing power from the shorted component(s)?

Hopefully allowing the console to at least boot albeit without wifi/bluetooth.

Any suggestions welcome.

TBC...
 
Last edited:
DonKeballs said:
As the console isn't stuck in a bootloop and I don't use the wifi and I'm ok using a wired controller connection, am I right in saying that I don't necessarily need to replace the wifi/bluetooth module (if it were the cause of the short) but rather just remove the short from the board by perhaps removing power from the shorted component(s)?
Click to expand...
Yeah if you can get it to boot by removing the short, that should be fine, just make sure to never attempt to update the FW and it should be fine to use like that long term.
 
I have a similar issue, controllers refue to connect and WiFi works intermittently, I once tried to update and got my console in an update loop until the boear decided to work again. My console still boots but WiFi and Bluetooth are unreliable, I never checked for shorts as I ran out of thermal paste to replace when I take it apart lol.

I guess you could replace the voltage regulator that seems to be broken with an AMS1117-1.8 regulator and see if that fixes the short and restores WiFi and Bluetooth
 
That video is very helpful... makes replacing that regulator seem do-able... I'm definitely buying a multimeter this week and having a go at seeing if I can locate a short on that regulator... The posts seem to suggest that the wifi/bt module may not necessarily be cooked after that regulator fails... interesting... If the wifi chip is cooked though, that would be a tricky repair to say the least....
 
Jarod A said:
That video is very helpful... makes replacing that regulator seem do-able... I'm definitely buying a multimeter this week and having a go at seeing if I can locate a short on that regulator... The posts seem to suggest that the wifi/bt module may not necessarily be cooked after that regulator fails... interesting... If the wifi chip is cooked though, that would be a tricky repair to say the least....
Click to expand...

Yes, It's a very helpful video. That post seems to suggest what you said. If that regulator has failed and/or has a short you can just replace the regulator. if the wifi/bluetooth module has a fault and/or short then that's a rather more complex repair.
 
Another helpful video showing the process involved to replace the wifi/bluetooth module and the voltage adjuster. The video is in spanish but you can still understand what is going on.

I believe this is a slim PS3 model which has a slightly different module than the SS.

 
Wow, that's a good vid... It seems hard but do-able, but that reflow is a new one... I've never seen someone heat the board from beneath before...
 
Yeah, that's what I thought. looks fiddly, but something I'd attempt myself. I guess heating it from underneath reduces the chance of frying the new module.
 
I
DonKeballs said:
Yeah, that's what I thought. looks fiddly, but something I'd attempt myself. I guess heating it from underneath reduces the chance of frying the new module.
Click to expand...

Yeah, just the way that whole module is made up of different parts might make it a wise decision not to heat it up to solder melting temps from above...

I've ordered the ams1117 resistors for my console, so I'll let you know in a week or so what happens there... I'm expecting the wifi module might be done too, but we'll see....
 
Jarod A said:
I


Yeah, just the way that whole module is made up of different parts might make it a wise decision not to heat it up to solder melting temps from above...

I've ordered the ams1117 resistors for my console, so I'll let you know in a week or so what happens there... I'm expecting the wifi module might be done too, but we'll see....
Click to expand...


Deffo keep us posted with how you get on. Good luck!

Is your console stuck in a update loop?
 
DonKeballs said:
Console: PS3 Super Slim CECH43xx
So I thought I'd share the experience I had with my PS3 failing. I will first detail the symptoms, then I hope to find the cause and finally (hopefully) repair the fault.

I will continue to update this post as I progress.

Symptoms:

The fault first started with the controllers not connecting wirelessly to the PS3. I continued to play for several more days using a wired connection with no problems. I should mention that the wifi was still working fine.

After several days the console started to randomly shut itself down. These shut downs became more and more frequent until eventually it shut down never to turn on again. Not even a red standby light.


Cause:

Having consulted Dr Google I soon found that Bluetooth/Wifi faults are fairly common on slim/super slim units where the wifi/bluetooth module is integrated onto the motherboard as opposed tho the phats where it is a separate, removable module.

It seemed logical that a fault in that area would be responsible for my dead PS3 considering that it was my Bluetooth that first failed.

I proceeded to dismantle the PS3 in order to carry out some fault finding.

I found the following videos useful:



In the videos it appears that a short in the wifi/bluetooth circuits is causing the fault (console won't turn on/no standby light).

Upon Carrying out continuity checks on my faulty super slim and a working spare I have (exact same model), I found the following.

Working PS3:


View attachment 33537

Faulty PS3:


View attachment 33536


As you can see, there is a short somewhere in the region of the wifi/bluetooth module which is likely why my PS3 won't turn on. Something likely detects this short and prevents it turning on.

It should be noted that I have checked the PSU on my spare PS3 and it is working.


I also found the following thread useful: https://www.psx-place.com/threads/w...update-loop-diagnostics-reports-repair.26865/

The thread above seems to suggest that a faulty voltage regulator could have lead to a component failure on my board which is now causing a short and preventing my PS3 from turning on.

Question:

As the console isn't stuck in a bootloop and I don't use the wifi and I'm ok using a wired controller connection, am I right in saying that I don't necessarily need to replace the wifi/bluetooth module (if it were the cause of the short) but rather just remove the short from the board by perhaps removing power from the shorted component(s)?

Hopefully allowing the console to at least boot albeit without wifi/bluetooth.

Any suggestions welcome.

TBC...
Click to expand...
A short description
If you simply take measurements on coil and gnd and is a short circuit, exchange module, that short is provided by WiFi ic on module and can't modify anything.
I have ordered few of those.
c707023739c44e5860176f57e11dceff.jpg
074616d587e8cccea22204535b5c773e.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok..... Disappointing update now that I have my multimeter... I've got 5 volts getting to the regulator... Unfortunately I have a steady 1.8 volts after the reg... so it seems according to the meter, the regulator is doing it's job just fine...

When I tested the plugs where the wifi/bluetooth antennas plug into the board for continuity, the BT is fine, but the wifi plug is shorting... I think that can only mean that wifi/bt module is busted... so I will have to order a new module, and try copying the guy changing it out in the video...

I was so hoping it was only the regulator, that would have been an easy fix...

I wonder if I can test my findings in the meantime by removing the wifi/bt module and powering on the console... see if the console fires up without the module on the board?...
 
Well at least you don't have to replace the voltage adjuster as well as the module. Interesting that it failed even though the voltage adjuster was doing its job. (from what I've read people seem to suggest that failure of the voltage regulator causes the wifi/bt module to fail).

Guess @vyktormvmpay25 is right about the wifi ic chip being the cause.

You could remove the module, or just remove the power to the module and see how it goes.
 
Jarod A said:
Ok..... Disappointing update now that I have my multimeter... I've got 5 volts getting to the regulator... Unfortunately I have a steady 1.8 volts after the reg... so it seems according to the meter, the regulator is doing it's job just fine...

When I tested the plugs where the wifi/bluetooth antennas plug into the board for continuity, the BT is fine, but the wifi plug is shorting... I think that can only mean that wifi/bt module is busted... so I will have to order a new module, and try copying the guy changing it out in the video...

I was so hoping it was only the regulator, that would have been an easy fix...

I wonder if I can test my findings in the meantime by removing the wifi/bt module and powering on the console... see if the console fires up without the module on the board?...
Click to expand...
I would advice you to change both( the voltage regulator and the wifi/blutooth module) cause I have fix this issue very well. The reason why am telling you to change both is because the voltage regulator too is affected but you won't be able to notice until you fix another wifi/b module there, then you will now see that the capacitor between the voltage regulator and the wifi/b module is reading to ground. By then your console might work just fine but the problem will repeat it self after a short period of time. That is why for you to get a perfect job done change both to avoid future problems.
 
kenzy said:
I would advice you to change both( the voltage regulator and the wifi/blutooth module) cause I have fix this issue very well. The reason why am telling you to change both is because the voltage regulator too is affected but you won't be able to notice until you fix another wifi/b module there, then you will now see that the capacitor between the voltage regulator and the wifi/b module is reading to ground. By then your console might work just fine but the problem will repeat it self after a short period of time. That is why for you to get a perfect job done change both to avoid future problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice... I wasn't going to worry about changing it, but I have already got new regulators, so I will definitely take your advice and change both...

Also the second hand wifi modules I've found online here are 20-30 aus$... I really don't want to replace with a new module, only to have it fail again, so that seems sensible advice when the new regulator costs less than a dollar...
 
DonKeballs said:
Well at least you don't have to replace the voltage adjuster as well as the module. Interesting that it failed even though the voltage adjuster was doing its job. (from what I've read people seem to suggest that failure of the voltage regulator causes the wifi/bt module to fail).

Guess @vyktormvmpay25 is right about the wifi ic chip being the cause.

You could remove the module, or just remove the power to the module and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

I have to wait at least a week or two for a new wifi module, so I will definitely be trying to power up the console once I've removed the components while I'm waiting... Just to satisfy my curiosity!
 
As I said I always get WiFi ic broken when I see a short between coil and gnd. Solution to it I exchanged WiFi ic and remove coil. Once coil removed add an voltage regulator to give 1.8v to WiFi board only. At this point factory voltage from board won't give me 5v back to 1,8v point because coil is not placed back.
 
Jarod A said:
I have to wait at least a week or two for a new wifi module, so I will definitely be trying to power up the console once I've removed the components while I'm waiting... Just to satisfy my curiosity!
Click to expand...
If you exchange Wi-Fi in some cases won't work because of eprom tied with board, solution is to exchange 8 pin eprom from old module to new board which is inside module.
Or read data from old and write data inside new eprom on new board.
 
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