M13k0_27
Forum Noob
So... I need to enable internal mode and download a version of linux for doing that (I'm actually using windows), I'll do it as soon as possible.
Thank you, I'll give some news.
PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting
Thank you, I'll give some news.
IronStar
Forum Noob
Hello guys and gals,
I hate being the guy who's first post is asking for help, but I'm really stuck and I'm wondering what on earth am I doing wrong.
I have a DYN-001 board I'm trying to get the codes off. As per the PDF on Github, I connected RX and TX syscon pins
https://imgur.com/a/8WLI0Hb and connected them to RX and TX pins on USB TTL running CP2102 chip. Exact model of my USB TTL device is HW-598, this one.
I'm getting 3.3V out of syscon when in standby, so that's working I guess.
When I plug the ps3 into power, on Putty I get a single character that doesn't resolve to anything on my PC. I tried swapping RX and TX around but I got garbled text. I triple checked the baud rate, I set it to 57600. I tried running both windows utility and linux/python one via WSL buy I keep getting auth1 failed.
I've noticed that the other boards have ground and diag pins, but DYN-001 doesn't have it on schematics in the pdf so I left ground pin disconnected on my USB TTL. Am I supposed to leave ot like this or connect it to ground on board anyway?
I'm really really wondering what on earth am I doing wrong. Some pointers would be greatly appreciated!
I hate being the guy who's first post is asking for help, but I'm really stuck and I'm wondering what on earth am I doing wrong.
I have a DYN-001 board I'm trying to get the codes off. As per the PDF on Github, I connected RX and TX syscon pins
https://imgur.com/a/8WLI0Hb and connected them to RX and TX pins on USB TTL running CP2102 chip. Exact model of my USB TTL device is HW-598, this one.
I'm getting 3.3V out of syscon when in standby, so that's working I guess.
When I plug the ps3 into power, on Putty I get a single character that doesn't resolve to anything on my PC. I tried swapping RX and TX around but I got garbled text. I triple checked the baud rate, I set it to 57600. I tried running both windows utility and linux/python one via WSL buy I keep getting auth1 failed.
I've noticed that the other boards have ground and diag pins, but DYN-001 doesn't have it on schematics in the pdf so I left ground pin disconnected on my USB TTL. Am I supposed to leave ot like this or connect it to ground on board anyway?
I'm really really wondering what on earth am I doing wrong. Some pointers would be greatly appreciated!
db260179
Member
db260179
Member
You need the GND connected to the usb ttl gnd lead, anywhere on the ps3 motherboard metal will be a GND
So USB TTL GND >>>> PS3 motherboard GND (usb sockets case, or pins sticking out etc)
In that COK-002 i have done reballing to RSX and CELL, and now I have error 2120 (I replaced HDMI port because it was in fatal condition) and 3013 which isn't in error codes. I have to check all capacitors etc around silicon chip. Unfortunately i don't have osciloscope. In that GLOD console i don't know what happened but I am pretty sure that nobody was on the motherboard before me because there was a warranty sticker. All fuses and capacitors are good, I can't go to the recovery mode, usb ports don't react. I think that without flasher I won't do anything with that console 
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
There are 2 camps of people:
Sell your broke console for parts and buy a working console. It'll save you time and money. Most of the YLOD are due to BGA problems that you can't easily fix and requires equipment that costs more than a new console anyway. Not worth the trouble.
..."But my saves!", you say? Well...yeah! That's a fair counterpoint!
If you're in Camp 2:
I've only worked on A models (COK-001), but doing so familiarized me with the general hardware and engineering that went into the PS3. So now when I look at any model of PS3 I have a general idea of what I'm looking at and what it probably does. I have worked on other consoles too and am not shy about googling for many hours reading up on obscure electrical engineering papers and watching dry EE videos. If you want to learn how to fix your own console and enjoy this kind of thing, then by all means pickup a YLOD model we have schematics for. Troubleshoot it and learn about it. Then, once you're familiar with it and the purpose of many of the components, you can pretty much apply that knowledge to the consoles we don't have schematics for. For them, it's best to have a working board to use as reference for what normal voltages/resistances should be. Then you are in the dark. So probe and experiment.
- Your console died and you were hoping to fix it yourself to save some money.
- Your console died and you were hoping to fix it yourself for the fun of it.
Sell your broke console for parts and buy a working console. It'll save you time and money. Most of the YLOD are due to BGA problems that you can't easily fix and requires equipment that costs more than a new console anyway. Not worth the trouble.
..."But my saves!", you say? Well...yeah! That's a fair counterpoint!
- Perform the Pressure test to see if applying pressure to the RSX will allow your console to boot. This confirms a BGA defect and possibly allows you enough time to backup your saves.
- If the pressure test doesn't work, consider the SYSCON error codes. It only costs $5 for the USB-Serial adapter and is easy to perform. IMO, the reason is to see if you have a 3034 (requires reball). If you don't, then it could be an easier DIY fix. But a 3034 is a death sentence for camp 1 people...
- You can try using hot air over the RSX area. You're not reflowing it, just trying to warp the board a little. This is why many people initially thought the NEC/TOKIN fix worked, because the heat needed to remove/install tantalum caps mechanically reconnects the solder balls so the console will boot until the stress relaxes. The YLOD returns in days to weeks, long enough to get your saves backed up. But you don't have to remove the NEC/TOKINs and replace them with tantalum, that was a red herring! It was the heat that warped the board that actually magd the YLOD go away (temporarily). The real fix is a reball .
If you're in Camp 2:
I've only worked on A models (COK-001), but doing so familiarized me with the general hardware and engineering that went into the PS3. So now when I look at any model of PS3 I have a general idea of what I'm looking at and what it probably does. I have worked on other consoles too and am not shy about googling for many hours reading up on obscure electrical engineering papers and watching dry EE videos. If you want to learn how to fix your own console and enjoy this kind of thing, then by all means pickup a YLOD model we have schematics for. Troubleshoot it and learn about it. Then, once you're familiar with it and the purpose of many of the components, you can pretty much apply that knowledge to the consoles we don't have schematics for. For them, it's best to have a working board to use as reference for what normal voltages/resistances should be. Then you are in the dark. So probe and experiment.
db260179
Member
Hit the nail on the head!
Diagnosis and tools are the key to fixing these ps3 motherboards
Unlike classic pcb boards, there is a lot of security workarounds to overcome and micro soldering.
BUT, if you can overcome these issues then its a great feeling to repair!
Pacorretaco
Member
Yeah don't forget about camp 3... Where most of the problems really are.
Those who "start" hunting for YLOD consoles hoping it will be an easy fix, because they were told (over and over) that "90%" of the YLOD is caused by a certain type of capacitors.
And not only that, they will be so sure of this that they will sell afterwards and repeat. Not just for personal use.
Not really caring to realize that the console probably just revived collaterally and nothing was actually fixed. Eventually they do and become part of camp 2. But most of the times it's a bit late.
Which reminds me @db260179 please (and sorry hehehe) edit the first page. It is misleading to associate power error 1001 with tokins. You don't have to simply listen to me, you can test this yourself.
Also 3001 is most likely just the 12v from PSU. (Anyone can test this as well).
I understand that ultimately the reader is responsible for what they make from the information (which I'm not saying it's wrong. Far from it), but we have to be particularly careful because we know somebody will come and read this the wrong way (as it has already happened).
Cheers
Those who "start" hunting for YLOD consoles hoping it will be an easy fix, because they were told (over and over) that "90%" of the YLOD is caused by a certain type of capacitors.
And not only that, they will be so sure of this that they will sell afterwards and repeat. Not just for personal use.
Not really caring to realize that the console probably just revived collaterally and nothing was actually fixed. Eventually they do and become part of camp 2. But most of the times it's a bit late.
Which reminds me @db260179 please (and sorry hehehe) edit the first page. It is misleading to associate power error 1001 with tokins. You don't have to simply listen to me, you can test this yourself.
Also 3001 is most likely just the 12v from PSU. (Anyone can test this as well).
I understand that ultimately the reader is responsible for what they make from the information (which I'm not saying it's wrong. Far from it), but we have to be particularly careful because we know somebody will come and read this the wrong way (as it has already happened).
Cheers
Kleon1876
Member
Can you run ERRLOG CLEAR and ERRLOG GET 0 command using execute.exe/ SysconReader_Debug.exe?
Pacorretaco
Member
Desperately need huh. Are your gamesaves trapped in there? If not, you can be happy to know that it's not the end of the world
Or just wait for the schematics to fall off the back of a Sony truck.
Yes, try it.
But remember this is just to make the process more accessible for newcomers. For internal commands you should still do everything the manual way. External commands are limited, especially on the older models like yours.
Hunter926
Member
Any idea where I can find these schematics you all are bringing up?
COK-001 and COK-002
marciolsf
Member
those are available in the github page linked by the OP.
k24a1
Forum Noob
CECHE01 came in the mail today, had 3034 so i decided to reflow it with some hot air and flux (i know its BS... i would replace the chip if my skill level was good enough) and she runs! tested ridge racer v on it and i might test it more later. COD zombies was stuck in the disc drive lol
i delidded the RSX but i am too freakin scared to delid the CELL.... don't wanna mess up another one of these beauts. it may get the light again, but for now it seems to be okay. might also need to add some tantalums in piggyback to the NEC/TOKIN chips... ^^;
if you have any suggestions for what to do i'd be glad to hear them.
and about that windows 7 sticker, it was on there when i bought it.
i delidded the RSX but i am too freakin scared to delid the CELL.... don't wanna mess up another one of these beauts. it may get the light again, but for now it seems to be okay. might also need to add some tantalums in piggyback to the NEC/TOKIN chips... ^^;
if you have any suggestions for what to do i'd be glad to hear them.
and about that windows 7 sticker, it was on there when i bought it.
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
The only way we see that is if someone leaks them. AFAIK it's still locked in SONY's dungeon guarded by a very greedy golem.
I wouldn't recommend that. In my testing it doesn't necessarily have the intended effect (anti-resonance peaks can be counter productive). Some have reported success with consoles that did have instability in intense games, but unless you have that problem there's no need to do anything. Besides, we need further confirmation of the error codes associated with TOKINs that are just bad enough to cause that kind of stability. So far, I only know of 801002, but I wasn't able to confirm that myself because the USPS damaged the tokins in shipping. @squeept did some preliminary tests before sending it to me, in which he was getting both 1001 and 1002's, but more confirmation would be better.
So yeah, if someone comes across a console that's having instability in intensive games, please do the SYSCON and provide us the codes (before adding tantalum)!
Pacorretaco
Member
I'm pretty sure the famous "shutdown under load" error that is associated with the tokin fault is none other than 80 1002.
This gets worse over time, with the YLOD occurring earlier and earlier, up to as short as 5 or 6 second YLOD. In extreme cases it degenerates even more so that the bootup sequence can no longer be completed. Being registered as 09 3004.
At least this is the impression I have with limited data.
And Felix is right. Please don't bother messing with the tokins until you see either of these two errors. If you do, be aware that you are just experimenting in a possibly harmful way.
That being said, there's an ongoing discussion of what a proper capacitor job even looks like. (Once again, don't expect a 90nm fat model to need one. Imagine how rare this is if we can't even find one to really test)
k24a1
Forum Noob
yeah, i'll wait until it ever has that issue and i may do the tokin fix. it may just have 3034 again since the RSX is most likely on its last legs... i can already observe that the issues with the caps are rather uncommon with these earlier PS3s, the chips themselves tend to go out more since they're built like crap with that underfill they used... also they just get hot as balls anyway, lol
Kleon1876
Member
I need help running python with CMD on windows 7. I have used the GUI (much love this) and been able to get the error codes so I know my wires and uart are functioning. Now i'm trying to use the CMD. I don't understand the following from the guide, "
Syscon python communication script (used to action syscon commands) –
ps3_syscon_uart_script.py (python 2 only) Support CXR". I went to the Github and downloaded the .py file. Where do i put it? when i run a command C:\users>pythonc
i get the following:
File "ps3_syscon_uart_script.py", line 7
<!DOCTYPE html>
Syntaxerror: invalid syntax.
I have put the .py file into the users folder.
Syscon python communication script (used to action syscon commands) –
ps3_syscon_uart_script.py (python 2 only) Support CXR". I went to the Github and downloaded the .py file. Where do i put it? when i run a command C:\users>pythonc
i get the following:
File "ps3_syscon_uart_script.py", line 7
<!DOCTYPE html>
Syntaxerror: invalid syntax.
I have put the .py file into the users folder.
Last edited:
Kleon1876
Member
Nice. It seems to confirm the 3034 error is bad solder joints under the rsx. I would install webman and keep the temp at 58C at most for both rsx and cpu. I have had success with that number. No Ylod after a poor man's reflow.
CECHE01 came in the mail today, had 3034 so i decided to reflow it with some hot air and flux (i know its BS... i would replace the chip if my skill level was good enough) and she runs! tested ridge racer v on it and i might test it more later. COD zombies was stuck in the disc drive lol
i delidded the RSX but i am too freakin scared to delid the CELL.... don't wanna mess up another one of these beauts. it may get the light again, but for now it seems to be okay. might also need to add some tantalums in piggyback to the NEC/TOKIN chips... ^^;
if you have any suggestions for what to do i'd be glad to hear them.
and about that windows 7 sticker, it was on there when i bought it.
Kleon1876
Member
Lol no game saves, i have just gone down the rabbit hole and it goes deep. I really want to know what the problem is on this board haha and it happen to be a DIA-001. So far the error i get is 22110 and 2031.
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