PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

@RIP-Felix @Naked_Snake1995 the 3034 error is only fixable by reballing?

I feel like it's necessary to defend @Naked_Snake1995 a bit. His tutorial id helpful for a potential cause of the YLOD. And he was correct in the capacitor to use to solve the problem (need low ESR, but he can be forgiven for not being an expert). It was just a trap he and everyone else fell for. False repairs due to thermechanical reconnection of BGA/bump defects gave the impression the nec/tokins were real issue. It was too juicy a narrative for people to resist - The idea that reballing was a con and the tokins were the real problem all along. Way too enticing an idea to resist. It sold a ton of YLOD consoles to hopeful DIY'er speculating on their own ability to solder. The truth is it looks easier than reballing. Reballing is so difficult that it presents a brick wall to the idea of fixing it themselves. Whereas the capacitors and tutorial make it look easy enough to be within their ability. That dangles hope in front of desperate gamers who want to believe they can easily revive their beloved console. Combine that with the idea that you can't break what's already broken and you have a recipe for destruction.

It gained it's own momentum, exasserbated by the fact that thermomechanical reconnection of BGA defects look like a fix initially. There were all kinds of rationalizations to fit the evidence into the myth's narraitive. Rationalizations like, "Heating the tokins restores capacitance, proving its bad tokins. If you use a hair drier or heat gun on tokins and it turns on, that means the toki s are bad." Nope, that's the BGA defect. In fact, since then we have shown that verified bad tokins, measured with an oscilloscope and correct SYSCON error code (1002), do not exhibit the same behavior as BGA defective consoles. Rarely do worn out tokins cause an instant YLOD (less than 10s). Most of the time they cause instability that progressively gets worse, forcing you to shelf the console before it gets that bad. The only time I have ever seen a console have a bad tokin cause an instant YLOD was when the tokin was physically damaged. Literally struck in shipping by a heavy thin cylindrical object right on the tokin. A lucky shot! I was planning to replace them anyway.

None of that was @Naked_Snake1995's fault. This was all before the we had the SYSCON UART error codes. Really, its SONY's doing. The errorlog should be accessible to repair technicians, not just SONY certified repair shops. Same with parts and schematics. It's a right to repair issue. If PS4 were backwards compatible with PS3 or if the PS5 were, there would be no need to keep old failing PS3 hardware out of the recycling bin. But there isnt any new hardware capable of playing PS3 games. So the demand for keeping PS3's alive is high. Especially the early backwards compatible models.

@Naked_Snake1995 fell victum to the narrative. So did I! Read my posts starting on page 137 of the YLOD thread. Before the SYSCON all we had were the opinions of reballers like @squeept who laid a steaming pile on our tantalum party. An unwanted, but necessary, jolt of reality. There were growing pains in the ensuing arguments as everyone came to terms with the truith. The old adage, "if it's too good to be true, it ain't" is always...and I mean ALWAYS...met with staunch resistance.

I think for @Naked_Snake1995 it was embarassing to be proven wrong. No one like to be an outspoken supporter of the incorrect side. But its not like he was completely wrong and the evidence couldnt have possable supported his position. It made sense from his perspective, as competing hypotheses do. But the truith had only one explanation and time and new evidence revealed it. I have no hard feeling for anyone who took either position. I just dont forgive willful ignorance after it's apparent what the truth is. Only when there is good reason to be wrong is it okay. When the truth is staring you in the face and you stanchly dig your heels in, that's when you transgress the line to foolishness. Its stupidity laid plain for everyone to see.
 
This is indeed all about truth! You will improve with time your reball. One most important thing is keeping practicing, at one point it will be simple and easy. Just make your way step by step, until now all your suggestions are right. I've been quated from a user here for doing Frankenstein mod, based in USA . I will help him because he could not find someone doing it there? Isn't nobody ready to make this mod there? I quate Louis Rossmann to see his fees, he will probably swear me eventually. If someone is sending something here then return cost is more than work fees. Any good suggestions for USA reball both? Or at least rsx 40nm, then with time may reball cell if really needed.

All the big reballers are gone or lost the trust of users. Theres that PS3specialist guy that is totally untrustworthy.. But when you Google PS3 reballing he's all that comes up. Him or sketchy looking websites. I think that ps3 specialists website was even flagged by my ISP provider with a scam warning!

Reballing is just really hard to figure out for would be clients. Its mostly word of mouth...your friend used that one guy, so you do too. But if you don't have a trusted friend who had a positive experiance you're SOL and have to take a chance. You really don't know the quality of work they do. What equipment and expertice do they have? Can they offer a repeatable highly reliable bond, proven with a reflow profile or certificate of quality assurance...and backed by a warranty. That kind of thing. You don't know if they did a refow or reball and thats even if you get "your" console back. I've heard stories of people having their consoles stolen, replaced, etc. Trash thermal paste used afterwards. All kinds of shady behavior. And you have sensitive PSN data on your device that can be used against you. Trust is everything!!!

There is certainly a huge void in the US market when it comes to trustworthy repair shops. Thats for sure! I think people are rightly confused. They just dont know who to trust and give up.
 
Yes they seem kind give up in the rush of business. Here seems same they won't touch ps3, I've understand that myself it takes time, they have bills to cover.
 
I know that reball machine manufacturers market their stations for video game console and laptop repair. So someone must be buying them. I just don't know who and what level of quality assurance they provide. Seems like they are out there, but are not doing a good job of advertising their service. I mean, there's no 1-800-2Reball as AFAIK. Maybe I should snatch that up...lol!
 
Just did some searching and yes, they are out there. It's just they have a daunting contact for a quote process. I don't mind, I have to do that a lot at work, its just annoying they don't list prices for common services so you can shop around. Waiting for a quote sucks and the fact they don't list prices makes you expect you'll have to mortgage your house to pay.

I did find this company who say the right combination of words. Warn you about the uncertainties of rework and alleviate themselves of liability if it is damaged. Sounds scary, but I wouldn't trust any shop who isn't upfront about this! No legit business can operate without such language. If they make it sound like they can fix everything guaranteed, don't touch them with a 10 foot pole!

They also provide ballpark pricing charts for common rework services they provide. You still have to contact them for a more firm quote and final pricing is assessed when they have hands on circuit. Sounds legit to me. Price ain't cheap, though! The only way I would consider paying upwards $300 is if they reball both CPU/GPU(40nm) with Sn/Pb "spheres" and install the frankenstein modchip with VDDR voltage mod. You would need to provide Schematics and a detailed description of the modwork all in the contact form for them to assess the quote.

They do say they may need to develop a reflow profile, and if so they need a scrap board and BGA devices to before attempting it for real. That's very candid of them and makes me think they know what they're doing. I guess it depends on how may PS3's they've done whether or not they already have a profile saved or not. Thats $150 off the bat, but I suspect they won't have to develop the profile.

Otherwise its probably $140, possable more for both the CPU & GPU rework, removal, installation. Im not sure if that includes reballing the chip. They have it listed separately, for $15-75. Minimum order is $225 anyway, so that's getting close. $30-90 More if you want x-rays of the BGA to ensure proper reflow (piece of mind), probably could skip that. $60 more if they have to repair BGA pads, $40 more for blistering repair, etc. And you have to disclose previous rework if you know about any. So I wouldn't send them a POS, it'll cost ya.

I mean, it's all pretty legit sounding, but ain't gonna be cheap. They gotta pay salaries and loans on those $30,000 BGA rework stations (the Low cost models). I doubt you'd get a console back for less than $225-300, but for a high quality BGA bond it might be worth it. Especially if you have them swap the 90nm RSX for a 40nm and install the VDDR voltage mod (SONYs way, the right way). I don't think I would trust them with the modchip, but for someone incapable of doing it themselves this might be the only option. Tack on more doh though! That is if they'd even do it.
 
I know that reball machine manufacturers market their stations for video game console and laptop repair. So someone must be buying them. I just don't know who and what level of quality assurance they provide. Seems like they are out there, but are not doing a good job of advertising their service. I mean, there's no 1-800-2Reball as AFAIK. Maybe I should snatch that up...lol!

I saw these things and I was tempted to try these out since they seem kinda cheap. I've never reballed anything using a preheated so I have no idea if its good (im guessing probably not). They do try market it as for xbox 360 and for PS3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1LNPF9/

Also got the chance to recap the PS3 I was working on, I got new error codes:
Seems to be power fail, but Im not sure what that means
Code:
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0231002 28F14D34
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0902120 28F14D13
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0231002 28F14D13
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0902120 28F14D02
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0231002 28F14D02
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F
00000000 FFFFFFFF 28B1E2BD
>$


>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F
00000000 FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
>$
 
lol, small world.

750 bucks for 50 stencils though, yikes. 15 bucks each and then you're stuck with the other 49. I supose you could sell the others to recoup some of the investment, but they are a pretty nich item. Not sure if you could.
 
Hi, I've learnt a lot from this thread. So I'd like to share a recent story of fixing a DIA-002.

So this board came very cheap as a donor board, I didn't give it much hope. When I did some basic probing for short I found the main 12V was shorted. So literally all the ceramic caps on the main power line are shorted and was initially at a lost. Checked all the fuses and all good. I didn't want to do a syscon error code reading because that would damage the board even more(well the 5V line wasn't shorted though).

So never turned on I tried to probe more around the RSX power line and find a power mosfet, of Vishay Si7386DP (https://www.vishay.com/docs/73108/73108.pdf) has all its pins shorted, including the gate pin. All the other power mosfets, although most of the pins are shorted because of the whole 12V was shorted, but their gate pins are not. This makes me think this innocent looking mosfet is the culprit. So I decided to take it off.

Taking off a power mosfet with a massive copper on its bottom didn't turn out easy, in fact, impossible for my little solder station. But just to prove my probing was right I tried to destroy it with a long nose plier. It turned into a ugly copper sitting on board but then the probing shows no more short. All the initially suspecting caps along the 12V line are no longer shorted.

IMG_5533.jpg

Then with some more confident I soldered on the syscon wires and tried to read some error code. It turns out this board can turn on properly now!

The error code actually were all 0xa0801001, except one 1200 that's because for the first turn on I didn't expect it works and it doesn't have a heatsink or fan at all...

My understanding is this power mosfet was part of ISL6568(https://www.renesas.com/us/en/document/dst/isl6568-datasheet) voltage regulation IC's circuit. The faulty one happens to be one of the phase power mosfet. Removing one seems good enough for just turning on the PS3. I haven't done decent graphics heavy test before I can jailbreak it and remarry a BD drive.

That's it. I'm quite happy with the knowledge I gained here and some luck I can pin point the faulty component and semi-fix this board.
 
huh, thats VDDC to the rsx. I would have expected 1002's. perhaps 1001 is reading some resistance or voltage refrence to those mosfets. I have been wondering about the connection 1001 errors have with CPU/RSX power delivery, so your results are particularly facinating. I'll have to make a note about it on my copy of the error code PDF when I get home. That's how I keep track of observations like this.

Anyway, nice troubleshooting and diagnosis! Way to go.
 
I saw these things and I was tempted to try these out since they seem kinda cheap. I've never reballed anything using a preheated so I have no idea if its good (im guessing probably not). They do try market it as for xbox 360 and for PS3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1LNPF9/

Also got the chance to recap the PS3 I was working on, I got new error codes:
Seems to be power fail, but Im not sure what that means
Code:
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0231002 28F14D34
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0902120 28F14D13
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0231002 28F14D13
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0902120 28F14D02
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0231002 28F14D02
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F
00000000 FFFFFFFF 28B1E2BD
>$


>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0902120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F
00000000 FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
>$

I am tempted to get one of those reballing units. I've been eyeing it real hard.

About 3001, its the main 12V line missing or issue. A bad PSU for example or blown fuse. Or you didnt have the 2 prongs plugged in while testing. Try another PSU.

The 1002s in the log are suspect too. they make me think filtering could be an issue. Fix the 3001 first and we'll see if the 1002s return and take it from there.
 
huh, thats VDDC to the rsx. I would have expected 1002's. perhaps 1001 is reading some resistance or voltage refrence to those mosfets. I have been wondering about the connection 1001 errors have with CPU/RSX power delivery, so your results are particularly facinating. I'll have to make a note about it on my copy of the error code PDF when I get home. That's how I keep track of observations like this.

Anyway, nice troubleshooting and diagnosis! Way to go.

Thank you. I thought it would be 1002 too. Then another thought, when the short was still there and I probed the Cell/BE's power rails, it also reads shorts, around the caps, around the power mosfets in Cell module. So I assume it's the syscon first check the voltage/power of Cell then it found it was shorted, so it doesn't bother to test RSX and just returned error 1001. I haven't read thoroughly about how the power rails go to Cell and RSX but from what I probed, if RSX rail is shorted, then Cell is shorted too.
 
What I think PS0, PS1 are relate to CPU, PS3, PS4 are related to rsx. I think. Those PS(powers supply) are seen in cmd log on "bringup" command. This command will open unit so assembly unit in test mode.
 
I am tempted to get one of those reballing units. I've been eyeing it real hard.

About 3001, its the main 12V line missing or issue. A bad PSU for example or blown fuse. Or you didnt have the 2 prongs plugged in while testing. Try another PSU.

The 1002s in the log are suspect too. they make me think filtering could be an issue. Fix the 3001 first and we'll see if the 1002s return and take it from there.


I'm moderately tempted too since I have a couple boards i want to try reballing and want to re-ball non Ps3 things too.

forgot to plug it into the PSU, checked for fuses all on the backside and they seem to all be good. Looks like the 3001s are gone and just have the 1002s.

Code:
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0231002 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0213013 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0213013 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0202120 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F
00000000 FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
 
Guys please don't do mistakes buying ir6500, it's going to work on very slow preheat time, 120 is going to be in 10 minutes or more without top heating going from there is a pain correlating top with bottom to reach nearly good profile for those big cok boards.
Just please look for something with bottom of at least 1800w. Otherwise you will be struggling with for big board, slims will work, ps4. Tested in 2015 /2016.
 
okay thats good news. Should be a candidate for tantalums.
I already changed the caps on the other side of the PCB. Should I continue replacing the rest of the cell caps?
Also is the recommended 470uF caps to use? I just use some that I had lying around. Saw some of the posts about ESR effecting the fix.


Guys please don't do mistakes buying ir6500, it's going to work on very slow preheat time, 120 is going to be in 10 minutes or more without top heating going from there is a pain correlating top with bottom to reach nearly good profile for those big cok boards.
Just please look for something with bottom of at least 1800w. Otherwise you will be struggling with for big board, slims will work, ps4. Tested in 2015 /2016.

I see, didn't know that. I saw this but its only 1.5kw https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sra-soldering-products/AO883/10709941. Would that and using a normal air flow station be decent enough?
 
I suspected that stationg might not be powerfull enough, but was thinking I might be able to modify it to work. The controllers and USB to PC for profiles is what almost sells me. TBH its the convenience of not having to invest 6 months researching and builing my own controller. That cheap puhi preheater I have does a good job for COK-001, I was thinking of just pairing it with the IR6500 top heater. I thought about DIY, but not sure how to do the enclosure, wiring, and thats going to be a project on its own right. Was hoping that stadalone unit was good enough on its own to save me the trouble.

I'll have to give it some thought. I need a good swing arm, with the knob to raise and lower the IR650. I can get an IR6500 top heater by itself, but the swingarm assembly isn't included. The controller is standard off the shelf. The relays are cheap. Not sure about the K-type probe, how it works with the controller. I'd want a front panel adaper so I and plug in new ones. And so on...

I wonder if in the end buying one of those IR6500 units for its parts and modding in a more powerful preheater would be cheaper overall. I think it got too complicated and I didnt want to tackle a project like that. I just keep putting it off.
 
You can buy separately those front controllers and some ssr and few power connectors and test on your puhui preheater tied up with heater, if you don't like it sell back those on eBay, probably won't loose as me, give it away for a Johnnie Walker bottle.
Pc410 and second one comtronix or what ever you find for bottom. That pc410 is one with uart port for diagnostic on pc for TC. For bottom can't remember we're I've lost his pdf to see if can do that uart. So probably you can wait until you create step by step second station.
Edit
When you get started those tests, let me know I may help with schematics for your needs.
K type thermocouple from omega will be better, it will probably show more with 20 or 25 Celsius then cheaper TC found /tests in China of factorys for those controllers.
 
Last edited:

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