Help with diagnosing power problem

[ArtYart]

Hi Everyone! Recently, I've replaced the NEC tokin caps of my PS3 fat console (CECHL00). Before replacement, the unit would show a Red LED light once it was powered on. After the replacement, the "adhesive" (I'm not sure if it is called an adhesive) under the PSU 4-pin socket got removed and the component became loose.To resolve it, I used a B 7000 adhesive to stick the socket back to the board and then powered on the unit . However, there was no red light from the unit. I checked the socket pins on the board for continuity to see if there was a solder bridge among the four pins; there were no bridges. I checked for the voltage for each pin in the board, and the voltages were 4.7V 0V 0V 5.47V. I've also tried connecting pins 1 and 3 since I heard that connecting these two pins would produce a 12V DC output. I tried this, it did produce a 12V DC output, but still, there was no standby light. There was a time when the standby turned on, but it was when I was checking the voltage of each pin on the board. When it did turn on, it lasted for about 5-10 seconds but then disappeared.
The PSU is an APS-240, and the motherboard model is VER-001.

 

[Aran3a]

ok so this adheasive you are talking about is not adheasive....
if by adheasive you mean solder then this is probably not relevent

it sounds like you ripped the socket off the board and glued it back on and now have an intermittant connection

sockets are not glued to boards they are soldered on (appologies if this is too basic but im not sure of your technical level), so basically you melt metal to attach components together, the sockets are tied down to the board with larger pads on either side you solder to the board that also work as a grounding plate on some connectors

the light probably came on while you were tesing the voltages because you applied presure and bridged the connection allowing power to pass through but once you took away the presure probably the adhesive slowly let the plug drift away again hence the 10 min of standby

to fix this you will need to remove the plug (carefully), clean up the socket and the area and inspect the damage

you will need to make sure the 4 tracks are undamaged and have pads on them to reattach the plug (often they get ripped off with the plug) and make sure the large pads on the side are also there so you can tie the plug down again

once you have verified that its all ok then you will need to get a soldering iron (not a on/off one but one with a temprature controll) and reattach the connector (start with the big pads on the side)

if any of the pads have been ripped off the board you will need to sort out a work arround and attach the pin to a location on the same track but further down the line (wire will be required)

if you are missing any of the big pads it's not the end of the world either (this is easier to fix then the little ones) but we will cross that bridge if we come to it

 

[ArtYart]

ok so this adheasive you are talking about is not adheasive....
if by adheasive you mean solder then this is probably not relevent

it sounds like you ripped the socket off the board and glued it back on and now have an intermittant connection

sockets are not glued to boards they are soldered on (appologies if this is too basic but im not sure of your technical level), so basically you melt metal to attach components together, the sockets are tied down to the board with larger pads on either side you solder to the board that also work as a grounding plate on some connectors

the light probably came on while you were tesing the voltages because you applied presure and bridged the connection allowing power to pass through but once you took away the presure probably the adhesive slowly let the plug drift away again hence the 10 min of standby

to fix this you will need to remove the plug (carefully), clean up the socket and the area and inspect the damage

you will need to make sure the 4 tracks are undamaged and have pads on them to reattach the plug (often they get ripped off with the plug) and make sure the large pads on the side are also there so you can tie the plug down again

once you have verified that its all ok then you will need to get a soldering iron (not a on/off one but one with a temprature controll) and reattach the connector (start with the big pads on the side)

if any of the pads have been ripped off the board you will need to sort out a work arround and attach the pin to a location on the same track but further down the line (wire will be required)

if you are missing any of the big pads it's not the end of the world either (this is easier to fix then the little ones) but we will cross that bridge if we come to it

Thank you Aran3a for your reply. Yeah, your answer made me believe that the adhesive messed up the connection. I was afraid that I might melt the plastic if I used a soldering iron. Again, Thank you for your answer. I have little experience in doing these things and it is my first time working on such a large board, and working with this also has its ups and downs.