PS3 Longevity for backwards compatible PS3

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Hey guys, I was just wondering if I got myself a refurbished backwards compatible ps3 phat, How long will it last before getting YLOD? From what I've read all ps3 phat will get the ylod sooner rather than later due to faulty RSX chip. Thanks
 
Out of all the working consoles I have rrefurbished, and passed my stress test, none of them have displayed any system faults. I am only talking about PS3 backwards compatible models, I have had a few requiring capacitors and some needed de-lidding, but none of them have developed any faults.

So with a good refurbishment by someone that knows what they are doing, and a dynamic fan control added, the console should last many years
 
So that isn't true. A ton of folks pass second hand knowledge. I have had 5 total two of which I still own. I have a phat model that has temps around the slim models.


Replace your NEC Tokin caps which I was told was easy enough if you are good with a solder iron & heatgun. I am not so I paid a few bucks to have it done. That was 2016 when I got that done system has zero issues to this date.

I then also got a 60gb for like $100 it still had factory sticker in place when I got it last year and my kid puts it to the test. Everyone I have done the caps to, new thermal paste, newer PSU & set the fan speed to 33% has been amazing.


That being said there are some that have other issues bit this seems to be most common. I just do not trust "refurbished" items without proof. They could have done a half arsed job so go with someone you know actually refurbs. Not a GameStop refub job.
 
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Absolutely, I agree and that's why each of my customers get a full youtube video showing the entire refurbishment process. This includes before and after temps, I also do a full Syscon dump to look for any serious errors it may have displayed in the past.

New pads, new paste and a through clean with isopropyl alcohol, if it needs tantalum caps I piggyback these onto the existing ones, this avoids using excessive heat on the motherboard. I don't do a de-lid on the RSX unless the temps are to high and the same goes for the CPU.

If all is done correctly the console runs perfectly with a fan set to 32 percent
 
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Timbo9876 said:
Absolutely, I agree and that's why each of my customers get a full youtube video showing the entire refurbishment process. This includes before and after temps, I also do a full Syscon dump to look for any serious errors it may have displayed in the past.

New pads, new paste and a through clean with isopropyl alcohol, it it needs tantalum caps I piggybacked back these onto the existing ones, this avoids using excessive heat on the motherboard. I don't do a de-lid on the RSX unless the temps are to high and the same goes for the CPU.

If all is done correctly the console runs perfectly with a fan set to 32 percent
Click to expand...

Yeah I have had zero issues over the years with this one.

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/my-cechb-01-teensy-stealth.9534/

I was gonna get the 40nm swap but I see no real reason as it stays cool and after the caps it has been a dream.
 
atreyu187 said:
So that isn't true. A ton of folks pass second hand knowledge. I have had 5 total two of which I still own. I have a phat model that has temps around the slim models.


Replace your NEC Tokin caps which I was told was easy enough if you are good with a solder iron & heatgun. I am not so I paid a few bucks to have it done. That was 2016 when I got that done system has zero issues to this date.

I then also got a 60gb for like $100 it still had factory sticker in place when I got it last year and my kid puts it to the test. Everyone I have done the caps to, new thermal paste, newer PSU & set the fan speed to 33% has been amazing.


That being said there are some that have other issues bit this seems to be most common. I just do not trust "refurbished" items without proof. They could have done a half arsed job so go with someone you know actually refurbs. Not a GameStop refub job.
Click to expand...

Please be careful advertising caps swap, hasn't it been discussed already that caps are often not the reason for failures... And the fact that you got "zero issues" most likely means that it didn't even need new capacitors to begin with...
 
Tantalum capacitors should only be added after a through investigation. Syscon codes need to be obtained and a complete test of the console should take place.

The guide indicates that the NEC Tokins should be removed but the heat used to remove the tokins can cause a false positive. So once I have obtained the syscon codes (normally a 1001 or 1002) I piggyback tantalum capacitors onto the existing tokins. This means very little heat is used to solder them to the motherboard so a positive result is a direct consequence of the added capacitors.

Capacitors shouldn't be added as preventative maintenance, these should only be done if the console requires them.

So paste, pads and a good clean with isopropyl alcohol is all that's required to a system that works and is showing no signs of any errors. This is enough to help keep the console well maintained and this in turn will help the console live a longer life.
 
Timbo9876 said:
Tantalum capacitors should only be added after a through investigation. Syscon codes need to be obtained and a complete test of the console should take place.

The guide indicates that the NEC Tokins should be removed but the heat used to remove the tokins can cause a false positive. So once I have obtained the syscon codes (normally a 1001 or 1002) I piggyback tantalum capacitors onto the existing tokins. This means very little heat is used to solder them to the motherboard so a positive result is a direct consequence of the added capacitors.

Capacitors shouldn't be added as preventative maintenance, these should only be done if the console requires them.

So paste, pads and a good clean with isopropyl alcohol is all that's required to a system that works and is showing no signs of any errors. This is enough to help keep the console well maintained and this in turn will help the console live a longer life.
Click to expand...

I'll agree with that, plus if you're really keep on keeping stock RSX, then I think Felix has mentioned underflil begins to suffer at temps over 67-68 C ? I don't remember exactly. It's better keep the temps under that (However, this is only if you didn't have any issues to begin with, once graphical artifacts appear, then it's already late for that and the webmod temperature limit is just a temporary voodoo). Also 1001 often happens for reasons other than bad caps, for instance improper power shutdown (with the backswitch) and in some cases even quitting a ps2 game into xmb. 1001 is usually indicative of capacitors if the console shuts down midgame or if it YLODs with an 1001 error. So It's also good to keep mind...
 
I have done some reading on Bump Gate and the under-fill seems to softern at 70 degrees and above, maybe that's why it's set to 68, saying that from now on I'm recommending to set webman to 65 degrees as a maximum temp and start the system on 33 percent fan speed as a minimum. Dynamic fan control is the best preventative step you can take to help prevent system failure of the RSX (in my humble opinion)

I have recently done a refurbishment, the console would give a flashing red light when you turned it off. When the system was cold it would give a flashing red light the first few attempts when you trued to turn it on. And it would shut done randomly mid game on TLOU. Syscon reported both 1001 and 1002 errors. I added two tantalum caps on the RSX side and two on the CPU side. Console now runs error free, always starts from cold and doesn't flash red when you turn it off, it also runs TLOU with no random shutdowns so that's a success, as I only piggyback the caps little heat is used so I can be sure it's not a CPU or RSX false positive result.
 
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Timbo9876 said:
Tantalum capacitors should only be added after a through investigation. Syscon codes need to be obtained and a complete test of the console should take place.

The guide indicates that the NEC Tokins should be removed but the heat used to remove the tokins can cause a false positive. So once I have obtained the syscon codes (normally a 1001 or 1002) I piggyback tantalum capacitors onto the existing tokins. This means very little heat is used to solder them to the motherboard so a positive result is a direct consequence of the added capacitors.

Capacitors shouldn't be added as preventative maintenance, these should only be done if the console requires them.

So paste, pads and a good clean with isopropyl alcohol is all that's required to a system that works and is showing no signs of any errors. This is enough to help keep the console well maintained and this in turn will help the console live a longer life.
Click to expand...


Hence why I paid someone to do mine. Citruspsi3000 deemed it was needed. He has made countless HDMI lots for just about every system. I do not pretend to know how to do it but I do have enough sense to let someone that knows how to repair them. We only did it on my CECHB as my CECHA has been perfect so I have not done anything aside from new thermal paste.
 
Timbo9876 said:
I have done some reading on Bump Gate and the under-fill seems to softern at 70 degrees and above, maybe that's why it's set to 68, saying that from now on I'm recommending to set webman to 65 degrees as a maximum temp and start the system on 33 percent fan speed as a minimum. Dynamic fan control is the best preventative step you can take to help prevent system failure of the RSX (in my humble opinion)

I have recently done a refurbishment, the console would give a flashing red light when you turned it off. When the system was cold it would give a flashing red light the first few attempts when you trued to turn it on. And it would shut done randomly mid game on TLOU. Syscon reported both 1001 and 1002 errors. I added two tantalum caps on the RSX side and two on the CPU side. Console now runs error free, always starts from cold and doesn't flash red when you turn it off, it also runs TLOU with no random shutdowns so that's a success, as I only piggyback the caps little heat is used so I can be sure it's not a CPU or RSX false positive result.
Click to expand...
I think I will have to go this route. I have two A01s that will sporadically YLOD when playing TLOU, but will behave perfectly everywhere else. One of them is very reproducible (sewer swimming with the two black guys) and the other is completely random.
 
Timbo9876 said:
I have done some reading on Bump Gate and the under-fill seems to softern at 70 degrees and above, maybe that's why it's set to 68, saying that from now on I'm recommending to set webman to 65 degrees as a maximum temp and start the system on 33 percent fan speed as a minimum. Dynamic fan control is the best preventative step you can take to help prevent system failure of the RSX (in my humble opinion)

I have recently done a refurbishment, the console would give a flashing red light when you turned it off. When the system was cold it would give a flashing red light the first few attempts when you trued to turn it on. And it would shut done randomly mid game on TLOU. Syscon reported both 1001 and 1002 errors. I added two tantalum caps on the RSX side and two on the CPU side. Console now runs error free, always starts from cold and doesn't flash red when you turn it off, it also runs TLOU with no random shutdowns so that's a success, as I only piggyback the caps little heat is used so I can be sure it's not a CPU or RSX false positive result.
Click to expand...

Do you have a link to where I can buy one of your BC PS3's?
 
It has been aggressively maintained/delided/19 blade fan / aps226 power supply
Classified said:
Hey guys, I was just wondering if I got myself a refurbished backwards compatible ps3 phat, How long will it last before getting YLOD? From what I've read all ps3 phat will get the ylod sooner rather than later due to faulty RSX chip. Thanks
Click to expand...



 
Last edited:
Timbo9876 said:
Absolutely, I agree and that's why each of my customers get a full youtube video showing the entire refurbishment process. This includes before and after temps, I also do a full Syscon dump to look for any serious errors it may have displayed in the past.

New pads, new paste and a through clean with isopropyl alcohol, if it needs tantalum caps I piggyback these onto the existing ones, this avoids using excessive heat on the motherboard. I don't do a de-lid on the RSX unless the temps are to high and the same goes for the CPU.

If all is done correctly the console runs perfectly with a fan set to 32 percent
Click to expand...

Hi, are you still providing this service? And if so, are you in the USA? Thanks


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