Need Help with Two PS3 replaced NEC/TOKIN Caps on both but still don't work

[TItans_Test_Team]

I have two ps3s I need help with.


80GB CECHE:

- Replaced all nec/tokin caps on both sides of the board.

- Bridged properly

- Double checked connection of caps and bridging

-Console has had caps pop out during operation a few times which resulted in an instant ylod.

- resoldered caps and bridge and made sure there is good continuity

- console now has 6 second ylod

- Have swapped psus and still the same problem



CECHA:

- Replaced all Bottom side caps

- Also was working with a small chip in the RSX chip.


- Once I saw this working after replacing own cap I immediately replaced the whole bottom.

- It booted but shut off due to loose caps again

- An extra component was found to be damaged as well. (Look in pic).

- Replaced that component from donor board (made sure to use same component and orientation as it was

- Ps3 now instant YLODs


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know now that I should solder better with tougher ends on the caps to prevent the caps from popping off during flex from the heatsink.


All pics are of CECHA

 

[ElGris]

You should buy some flux and don't try to fix this without using it. The board makes the soldering wire usage really AWFUL, and you require a lot of flux to get a good soldering. I recommend you to replace every tokin on both RSX, but make sure the soldering is good, otherwise this is a waste of time. Also use flux on that component you lost too, that's a coil, it should have continuity.

 

[wrx884]

as said in other thread test the component and confirm its good, since it was from a donor that had issues its always good to do this 1st. plenty of flux as above said, there is no real flex in the mother board when u put it back together kinda sounds like mayb they were knocked or were just soldered with cold joins.

Next rule out the BGA's with the pressure tests.

Re-do all caps if ur not sure on ur work. test the caps and make sure they are all good b4 installation. If u read the tokin thread fully a member actually was able to get a console to boot with all caps on one side removed and the console still worked fine. unless u shorted other components from ur moving caps u will need to measure components around the board. start with the power rail.

 

[TItans_Test_Team]

as said in other thread test the component and confirm its good, since it was from a donor that had issues its always good to do this 1st. plenty of flux as above said, there is no real flex in the mother board when u put it back together kinda sounds like mayb they were knocked or were just soldered with cold joins.

Next rule out the BGA's with the pressure tests.

Re-do all caps if ur not sure on ur work. test the caps and make sure they are all good b4 installation. If u read the tokin thread fully a member actually was able to get a console to boot with all caps on one side removed and the console still worked fine. unless u shorted other components from ur moving caps u will need to measure components around the board. start with the power rail.

How can I test out that little component (capacitor or resistor in the photo that was missing and replaced)? I can do a continuity test but that's about it and it passes. BGA isn't the issue I believe because it was working in the xmb before it went.

I turned it on again and it had the 6 second ylod for a moment and then it goes back to the instant ylod now.

I am still uncertain what the 6 second ylod even means other than power issues but there doesn't appear to be any other defects on the board for the meantime.

 

[wrx884]

L7004 is its component number from the schematics and its a 10uh coil so that should be fine.

ur judgement is being questioned so do the test to rule it out regardless. once its done u can turn to probing other components for checks, u really should be working off the schematics because its not in front of us its harder to diagnose for u only u can do that.

did u test the new caps??

u say it doesn't appear to have defects on the board, what have u done to confirm this? only visual checks?

 

[TItans_Test_Team]

L7004 is its component number from the schematics and its a 10uh coil so that should be fine.

ur judgement is being questioned so do the test to rule it out regardless. once its done u can turn to probing other components for checks, u really should be working off the schematics because its not in front of us its harder to diagnose for u only u can do that.

did u test the new caps??

u say it doesn't appear to have defects on the board, what have u done to confirm this? only visual checks?

I did do the continuity test and it passes it's not defective. I do have the schematic for the 60GB downloaded.

Will have to double check the board visually again. I have checked it many times but another pass over can't hurt.

the new caps are fine from what I have seen but I will test them again.

So basically before I even swapped that component off the donor board I already did test if before hand for continuity which is passed.

Now I will have to double check the board and tantalum caps.

I have the service manual schematic too and yes you are correct that was the part (located close to bottom right you can see slight blue in the pic I provided)