PS3 Powering Launch PS3 w/ external power brick (D220P)

ps.
@DoublesAdvocate
I found a de-lidding service on eBay for 450USD + shipping
Hmmmmmm, he does give a 3 month of warranty, but unfortunately it doesn't rain money where I live.

@jacobsson
I re-read the start of your thread again, there was that "guy" who think what you did was madness lol. He would do anything but move the PSU??? lol, anyways, he was talking about a "curved fan" is it a mod? Im aware of the 15,16,19 blades. I've always gotten the 15. I bought a non-OEM 19 to try, would never do that again, the margins are off, I had to trim certain parts, and raise other parts. In the end I just threw it away.

Delivery is so slow. But I will update you about the wire thing. Im going to try it on a cheap model first to be safe.

And I just want to know if you put your unit vertical or horizontal, there seems to be a civil war on this topic after reading for about an hour (a guy even posted he put his unit upside down, well naturally i think that would work well, because the IHS would be on top...but haha it would just look weird)
I have my vertical just to save space, and I have a Evercool Defender https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DNGCN...olid=1XMVEC937RL8Q&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
And I CANT believe I only figure it out to plug that into a USB NOT on the console, so the fan would still be on after the unit has powered off, and usually these "quick charge" USBs provide higher amps for faster fan speed.

Hope to master delid soon-ish
Best
 
Yoshigu88 said:
@jacobsson
Hi, I hope you had a good holidays and a happy New Year, and doing well!
Thanks for all the help you gave last time, I got lucky by your third method :), I got a A01 with a bad blue-ray drive for less than 45, and repaired it, I didn't de-lid it. I took a picture of the motherboard, and did a repaste, and change all the thermal pads.
And another gift, his unit had a A226 PSU :) suppose to be ~20% efficient than mine, and all that for 45.
Its working atm, idles at 56C, but if I play games it goes to >60C, closer to 70.
So I will probably have to de-lid it at some point, and i'm going to try a different way this time.
Hopefully I will be able to adapt your mod soonish
Click to expand...

Dude, nice find!
I think the temps are acceptable to be honest, how loud is the fan on 70c during gaming?
If you're not happy with the fan noise and temps, Delidding the RSX is much less risky, maybe that's all you need?

PS. re-read those early replies too, had a good laugh revisiting it!
 
Last edited:
Hi again Jacobsson

Im going to do your mod first, im going to practice on trash boards before I destory another A01. I got most of the items prepared. Im waiting on the female 8 sockets to plug into the dell.

Can I run it over with you?
So I have these thick wires, from my reading, 2 (white +) is solder to the front one, the the black ground is to the back. Then I pass it under the DIY box, and modify the socket.
Then 2 12V wires from "in" one to ground.
I also have 2 red (5v) and 2 black that are combined to plug into the 5 pin. From your pictures, the last slot is labeled NC (no connection? just leave it?)

I got the one with USB port, so I will add a blow fan on top of the CPU.
P.S. making a hole in the power plug was the harddest part so far.

What material did you use to fix your box onto the board? Tape? or did you just leave it.
I currently have my PS3 verticle because it saves so much space.

Please let me know if I misunderstood something from your instructions.

Cant wait to see this work!!!!
IMG_1946.jpg


Ill buy 1 or 2 trash PS3 to see how to delid before I destroy another system :(

THANK YOU! for all the help from the beginning, thank you for all your support!! and your idea is definitely the best. I was NSC's solution, haha good idea, but he cut 2 holes into the PS3, solved by inelegant.

I should be able to get the last of the parts this coming week, then I see if it runs. CANT WAIT!!!
PS. This is the dead board that im trying to figure out where how to place things.
IMG_1944.jpg
 
Yoshigu88 said:
Hey Jacobsson.View attachment 28436 View attachment 28437

I just delid the GPU and well...the CPU. It didnt go as smoothly as I hoped. After all the prep.
I scratched the surface of the CPU in one corner when the force I used slipped.
Im attaching a picture. How bad do you think the damage is? and is it dead dead? :(

Thank youView attachment 28436 View attachment 28437
Click to expand...
Quades guide is flawed. You should trim down the paint knives. My guide is more informative and overall better than many of the lame deliding guides out there that miss out the crucial details in guaranteeing you success. Check out my guide and you won't make that same mistake again, Trim down the knives with a file and don't rush>https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-...od-nec-tokin-replacement.575455/#post-9256039

My take on the psu mod is the only mod that can improve cooling but if only someone sold these as kits. The hole mods on the other hand are a complete joke. There many fake guides out there for PS3, Drilling holes, Heatgun, Reballing it's all Fake Repair. It never fixes the problem. Only Syscon, Delliding and or Replacing RSX, the Nec Tokins fixes the problem.

Yoshigu88 said:
ps.
@DoublesAdvocate
I found a de-lidding service on eBay for 450USD + shipping
Hmmmmmm, he does give a 3 month of warranty, but unfortunately it doesn't rain money where I live.

@jacobsson
I re-read the start of your thread again, there was that "guy" who think what you did was madness lol. He would do anything but move the PSU??? lol, anyways, he was talking about a "curved fan" is it a mod? Im aware of the 15,16,19 blades. I've always gotten the 15. I bought a non-OEM 19 to try, would never do that again, the margins are off, I had to trim certain parts, and raise other parts. In the end I just threw it away.

Delivery is so slow. But I will update you about the wire thing. Im going to try it on a cheap model first to be safe.

And I just want to know if you put your unit vertical or horizontal, there seems to be a civil war on this topic after reading for about an hour (a guy even posted he put his unit upside down, well naturally i think that would work well, because the IHS would be on top...but haha it would just look weird)
I have my vertical just to save space, and I have a Evercool Defender https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DNGCN...olid=1XMVEC937RL8Q&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
And I CANT believe I only figure it out to plug that into a USB NOT on the console, so the fan would still be on after the unit has powered off, and usually these "quick charge" USBs provide higher amps for faster fan speed.

Hope to master delid soon-ish
Best
Click to expand...
Not this UK based service. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLAYSTAT...025150?hash=item1a994bb47e:g:jw8AAOSwmyZfhD~b Doesn't charge ridiculous amounts, He replaces the Nec Tokins and Delius. His method is probably the best out there as it involves using thin wire which in turn leaves you with zero scratches. For that 450 prices, you can replace the RSX 3 times over from this cheaper service. Hell, i expect the Slim Cell CPU to be put into a Phat for that price if such a feat is possible. Anyone charging that much is a scam artist.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Since this mod can get messy especially when you're not good at cutting holes and mounting ports. Plus no plug and play kit. I instead replaced the PSU with a CECHG PSU out of a 40gb PS3 and now it doesn't run as hot as the previous PSU.
 
iVirtualZero said:
Since this mod can get messy especially when you're not good at cutting holes and mounting ports. Plus no plug and play kit. I instead replaced the PSU with a CECHG PSU out of a 40gb PS3 and now it doesn't run as hot as the previous PSU.
Click to expand...
Looks like the psu isn't compatible. Guess the APS227 is the only stock option for 60gb ps3's.
 
Long story short I'm 13 and willing to do this pending my dads help and "financial support" (wink wink nudge nudge) but I dont understand where your high gauge wire is going from and to. My dad can solder and owning a CECHA, I want to do this. I have the breadboard wires and power plug, just need the 8pin connector ,buck converter and a d220p. Is there any way you would be willing to do a step by step so me and my dad can do it?

Sent from my SM-S102DL using Tapatalk
 
MItch07 said:
Long story short I'm 13 and willing to do this pending my dads help and "financial support" (wink wink nudge nudge) but I dont understand where your high gauge wire is going from and to. My dad can solder and owning a CECHA, I want to do this. I have the breadboard wires and power plug, just need the 8pin connector ,buck converter and a d220p. Is there any way you would be willing to do a step by step so me and my dad can do it?

Sent from my SM-S102DL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It is a very cool thing to hear that you and you dad want to do this as a project together! I will try to remember more in detail what's been done.

As for your question about the wire:
The D220P female connection has a pretty straight forward layout, essentially:
  • 3x 12V,
  • 3x GND,
  • 1x V_ON (turns on the PSU when grounded)
  • Finally a NC "no connecting" pin

D220P female connector: made from a 20pin motherboard extension cable
From the picture below you can see that I've inserted my high gauge wire into the trimmed down 20pin motherboard female connector,
(you could also keep the wires that the connector comes with, I choose to swap them for a more correct color coding).

Below are the main parts of this project that needs to be completed.

  • D220P female connector: I've trimmed a part of 20pin motherboard female extension cable and cut the male side. You can keep the cables of you don't care about color coding (I replaced mine, but this is optional extra work).



  • The power socket assembly: After completing the D220P female connector above we need to integrate this into the power socket.
  1. Removed the AC connector out of the PS3 power socket assembly
  2. Secure out D220P female connector into the empty space we made from step 1 (I used hot glue)
  • Power switch in the power socket: I wanted to use the power switch for the PSU 12V ON/OFF
    1. branch one extra GND wire and the V_ON wire to the power toggle switch poles (see bottom right in the picture)
  • PS3 12V internal power prongs: The internal prongs on the PS3 mainboard want 12V and GND to operate when turned on.
  1. Connect the 3x GND and 3x 12V from our D220P female connector to the PS3 12V prongs ( I made a make shift connector that can be thread over these. Optionally you could just solder them if you want to).
  • Step-down / Buck converter: This board makes sure that we give 5V to the PS3s internal power (this ensures that the PS3 have 5V standby voltage for the SYSCON to tell the PS3 to turn on when we press the power touch button on the front).
  1. Step-down input: I branch of 1x GND and 1x 12V from the D220P power connector to the input side of the step-down board
  2. Use a multimeter to calibrate the trim-pot to ensure around 5.25V for the output of the step-down converter
  3. Step-down output: Solder 2x wires on the step-down 5V (5.25V) output and two wires to the step-down GND side
  4. Connect these wires to the PS3 5-pin internal power cable according to picture (I used resistor legs as ends to interface with the cable)
  5. The green cable cable is not used, so disregard this



aNDmjMA.jpg


I hope this helps you and your dad complete this project, I'll try to answer any questions when I can, good luck!
Please post some pictures of your progress :)
 
Last edited:
jacobsson said:
It is a very cool thing to hear that you and you dad want to do this as a project together! I will try to remember more in detail what's been done.

As for your question about the wire:
The D220P female connection has a pretty straight forward layout, essentially:
  • 3x 12V,
  • 3x GND,
  • 1x V_ON (turns on the PSU when grounded)
  • Finally a NC "no connecting" pin

D220P female connector: made from a 20pin motherboard extension cable
From the picture below you can see that I've inserted my high gauge wire into the trimmed down 20pin motherboard female connector,
(you could also keep the wires that the connector comes with, I choose to swap them for a more correct color coding).

Below are the main parts of this project that needs to be completed.

  • D220P female connector: I've trimmed a part of 20pin motherboard female extension cable and cut the male side. You can keep the cables of you don't care about color coding (I replaced mine, but this is optional extra work).



  • The power socket assembly: After completing the D220P female connector above we need to integrate this into the power socket.
  1. Removed the AC connector out of the PS3 power socket assembly
  2. Secure out D220P female connector into the empty space we made from step 1 (I used hot glue)
  • Power switch in the power socket: I wanted to use the power switch for the PSU 12V ON/OFF
    1. branch one extra GND wire and the V_ON wire to the power toggle switch poles (see bottom right in the picture)
  • PS3 12V internal power prongs: The internal prongs on the PS3 mainboard want 12V and GND to operate when turned on.
  1. Connect the 3x GND and 3x 12V from our D220P female connector to the PS3 12V prongs ( I made a make shift connector that can be thread over these. Optionally you could just solder them if you want to).
  • Step-down / Buck converter: This board makes sure that we give 5V to the PS3s internal power (this ensures that the PS3 have 5V standby voltage for the SYSCON to tell the PS3 to turn on when we press the power touch button on the front).
  1. Step-down input: I branch of 1x GND and 1x 12V from the D220P power connector to the input side of the step-down board
  2. Use a multimeter to calibrate the trim-pot to ensure around 5.25V for the output of the step-down converter
  3. Step-down output: Solder 2x wires on the step-down 5V (5.25V) output and two wires to the step-down GND side
  4. Connect these wires to the PS3 5-pin internal power cable according to picture (I used resistor legs as ends to interface with the cable)
  5. The green cable cable is not used, so disregard this



CL6Vrcl.jpg


I hope this helps you and your dad complete this project, I'll try to answer any questions when I can, good luck!
Please post some pictures of your progress :)
Click to expand...
After reading this twice, why do you say 4 12v wires when there is only 3 in the connector

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Also last night he said no now this morning he's saying maybe another time lol, may be a while before we do it but I'm sure we will sometime as I have the power plug and breadboard wires, just need the d220p, 8pin bit, buck converter and high gauge wire (he may have some tho)

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MItch07 said:
After reading this twice, why do you say 4 12v wires when there is only 3 in the connector

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Click to expand...

Yes and no, essentially you have 3 main 12v and 3 main GND wires from the connector, but you should Y-split one of each (one from 12V and one from GND) for the step-down converter. The reason you should not dedicate one of the three wires but rather Y-split is due to the fact that the PS3 sometimes wants over 200W from the 12V rail. Having all three wires from connector to the PS3 12V prong ensure this load can be delivered safely.

I think your questions are relevant and address some details to the image that needs to be updated.

EDIT: The image is now updated to better illustrate the branch offs of the wires.
aNDmjMA.jpg
 
Last edited:
jacobsson said:
Yes and no, essentially you have 3 main 12v and 3 main GND wires from the connector, but you should Y-split one of each (one from 12V and one from GND) for the step-down converter. The reason you should not dedicate one of the three wires but rather Y-split is due to the fact that the PS3 sometimes wants over 200W from the 12V rail. Having all three wires from connector to the PS3 12V prong ensure this load can be delivered safely.

I think your questions are relevant and address some details to the image that needs to be updated.

EDIT: The image is now updated to better illustrate the branch offs of the wires.
aNDmjMA.jpg
Click to expand...

The branch off to the connector looks funny to me, looks like a W split into 1 wire, but how do you go from low gauge to high gauge wire?
 
MItch07 said:
The branch off to the connector looks funny to me, looks like a W split into 1 wire, but how do you go from low gauge to high gauge wire?
Click to expand...

There are several ways to to it:
either completely cut the low gauge wire and thread your shrink tube, solder a Y-split of low and high gauge wire, pull an heat the shrink tube.

Or thread some shrink tube on your low gauge wire, use an exacto knife and remove some of the shielding around low gauge wire, twin the high gauge wire around the revealed part. Flux and solder.

Not sure if this answer your question?

EDIT: just to clarify, it's the low gauge wires that goes to the 12V and GND of the PS3.
 
Last edited:
jacobsson said:
There are several ways to to it:
either completely cut the low gauge wire and thread your shrink tube, solder a Y-split of low and high gauge wire, pull an heat the shrink tube.

Or thread some shrink tube on your low gauge wire, use an exacto knife and remove some of the shielding around low gauge wire, twin the high gauge wire around the revealed part. Flux and solder.

Not sure if this answer your question?

EDIT: just to clarify, it's the low gauge wires that goes to the 12V and GND of the PS3.
Click to expand...
Let me word this better, this is prob my fault

The wires in the connector look to be high gauge, and the 12v directly to the ps3 look to be low gauge wire. Did you just combine the wire (which sounds dangerous) or am I missing something?

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MItch07 said:
Let me word this better, this is prob my fault

The wires in the connector look to be high gauge, and the 12v directly to the ps3 look to be low gauge wire. Did you just combine the wire (which sounds dangerous) or am I missing something?

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Click to expand...

OH I see. No I went 16AWG all the way, I recommend you do it too.
The branch can be of higher gauge since not much power will be drawn through them.
 
jacobsson said:
OH I see. No I went 16AWG all the way, I recommend you do it too.
The branch can be of higher gauge since not much power will be drawn through them.
Click to expand...
Okay, it looked really trippy.

1 thing for clarification, the ground going to the power switch (the ground that goes over the power switch so it works) goes into the buck converter, right?

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