PS3 PS3 FAT CECHC04 - COK-002 - GLOD - no video on HDMI and Component

Oh, I might know why its acting like this. Because this is a remastered, and been downloaded directly form psn?
 
Mother of God. How fucked am I rn?
It was working but the RSX was around 68c at idle 75c under load.
 

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What happened to the tokin? The plastic should just clip back on provided it's in one piece

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
 
Clipped it back.
Lol
Works.
Well I accidentally put 2 layers over eachother 2.0 mm tp-s and I think that was the issue. Lol
Silly me.
The RSX was a bit off after a few minutes running but it is around 51c after 4mins idle.thanks again
 
Timbo9876 said:
What happened to the tokin? The plastic should just clip back on provided it's in one piece

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Well this plastic thing gives me an idea... Just wondering.
So what if I'd decap them and put the thermal pads over the parts inside?
It's non conductive material so it would work more efficiently. Right?
 
I would only do anything like that if you was prepared to experiment on your console. If your issue is all sorted I really wouldn't mess about with it.

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Guys! Have any of you have information about the string needed to delid the CELL? Saw a YouTube earlier but couldn't find it now. The guy was using a fishing "rope". And I might be wrong but he said it was 0.6 or 0.06mm thick. With steel core ? Not sure. The snake's mod is applied but the temps are 68c at about 40% with 27c room temp. And it used to lick in sometimes 45 to 52%. And it is loud. Thank you
Tim! I wasn't forgot. Just didn't had the do.thankyou Sorry
 
If your getting 68 degrees with the eraser mod applied then something is wrong with your console. Take the mod out and see what you get, if nothing changes then try reapplying the mod. If it's worse then again try to reapply the mod. If none of that works then you can try a de-lid however don't be surprised if it doesn't help much. Every time I have done a de-lid because temps are a little high, even with the mod, it has only dropped the temps by a few degrees, and thats using liquid metal.

Just to check, this is a COK-002 motherboard right?
 
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And if your thinking about using fine steal wire, be aware it does have a risk of damaging the cell. TONY359 unfortunately damaged the cell using floss which is less abrasive than the wire so look at Felix's tutorial on how to make a de-lidding tool
 
carr said:
Guys! Have any of you have information about the string needed to delid the CELL? Saw a YouTube earlier but couldn't find it now. The guy was using a fishing "rope". And I might be wrong but he said it was 0.6 or 0.06mm thick. With steel core ? Not sure. The snake's mod is applied but the temps are 68c at about 40% with 27c room temp. And it used to lick in sometimes 45 to 52%. And it is loud. Thank you
Tim! I wasn't forgot. Just didn't had the do.thankyou Sorry
Click to expand...
look in my account for a post I made on how to delid the South Bridge, I used a 0.08mm LCD screen cutting wire and it worked fine. If you need I can make a quick video on youtube on how to do this.
What is your native language, mine is Portuguese, I'm from Brazil, if you want to call me in private, feel free.
 
Yes, I am aware of that, I tried to remove the cap from a CECHG and it was extremely difficult at the time.
to remove more easily regardless of the method, use kerosene in the process (airplane fuel, buy at any store).

in the hole where you insert the spatula, turn a little kerosene and let it act for a few minutes, it will soften the glue and cut extremely easier, in addition the kerosene is not electrically conductive and you don't even need to wash the plate after use because it doesn't get dirty it, but I recommend that you wash the area at least and where you got it with isopropyl alcohol after use.

a video showing what I mean, it's in PT-Br, but it has subtitles in Portuguese at some points and you can translate it with any translator.

you can see that he used strips of aluminum tin to cut the IHS glue.
 
_XBrD4shDOE_808_ said:
Yes, I am aware of that, I tried to remove the cap from a CECHG and it was extremely difficult at the time.
to remove more easily regardless of the method, use kerosene in the process (airplane fuel, buy at any store).

in the hole where you insert the spatula, turn a little kerosene and let it act for a few minutes, it will soften the glue and cut extremely easier, in addition the kerosene is not electrically conductive and you don't even need to wash the plate after use because it doesn't get dirty it, but I recommend that you wash the area at least and where you got it with isopropyl alcohol after use.

a video showing what I mean, it's in PT-Br, but it has subtitles in Portuguese at some points and you can translate it with any translator.

you can see that he used strips of aluminum tin to cut the IHS glue.
Click to expand...
Wow guys. Thank you.
I'm getting into it again. Since my moving stopped for a bit. Lol.
(Taking 2 walls out to have bigger space for living room and kitchen)
So, @TIM: I checked my temps after the mod. It was 68C applied and will check in a few minutes after a nap, how the thermals come after removing the mod.
This is pretty strange to me. Every other (4 I think ) console applied pressure mod haven't suffered thermals like this.
=)

Ahfukk.. forgot attach pics
 

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carr said:
Wow guys. Thank you.
I'm getting into it again. Since my moving stopped for a bit. Lol.
(Taking 2 walls out to have bigger space for living room and kitchen)
So, @TIM: I checked my temps after the mod. It was 68C applied and will check in a few minutes after a nap, how the thermals come after removing the mod.
This is pretty strange to me. Every other (4 I think ) console applied pressure mod haven't suffered thermals like this.
=)

Ahfukk.. forgot attach pics
Click to expand...

It looks like you will need to do a de-lid, sometimes the pressure mod doesn't work so well if the thermal paste is to dried out.

So look at felix guide to making a de-lidding tool, this is your best option. I would use liquid metal and still apply a small amount of pressure behind the CPU dye so the liquid metal makes contact
 
That's melted. Is this usual ?
Cleaned the big gaps between the capacitors. Putting together and give it a 20 mind test
 

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The thermal pads are not melted they are just compressed together. Like I said try taking the mod out and give it another test. If it's worse then you know the mod had a positive impact just wasn't good enough. If its the same then you may need to add a little more pressure for the mod to work. If that has no impact its time to de-lid and apply liquid metal
 
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