PS3 overheating with loudy fan noice and the solution?

[Khabibov]

So the PS3 we are talking about has not been delided, right ?, you just changed thermal paste ?

In that case the only things that could have damaged it is when you separated the heatsink metal block from the motherboard the first time
Sometimes the thermal paste is acting a bit like "glue" and is needed to pull out a bit, this could bend the motherboard, do you remember if you needed to make much strenght when doing this ?

And what you should do anyway is to dissassemble it completly and assemble it again, keep an eye at how are assembled the 2 "metal shields" that covers the motherboard like a sandwich
In the border where are the connectors one of the metal shields have like a couple of "holes" and you need to insert the other metal shield there... then close the metal shields like a book

If you dont assemble this metal shields well sometimes they makes a shorcut because touches the motherboard circuit and the PS3 doesnt boots (the motherboard detects the shorcut and refuses to boot)
I hope is this, anyway, you are at the point where you need to dissassemble it and try to boot the motherboard separatedlly

And btw, NEVER BOOT the motherboard without the heatsink (and bolts well thighted) and fan in his place
If you do it can overheat very fast, in a matter of couple of minutes, i hope you did not tryed this

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Btw, for the other PS3 you had time ago that had an scratch on top of CELL fiberglass surface there is a thing you can try, the copper traces are microscopic but well, maybe you are lucky
First you need to remove the green varnish with sandpaper around the cutted traces... then with lot of flux (is a liquid that allows the solder to attach better to the copper) drop a solder ball on top and move the melted solder ball with the solder iron all over the area with cuts
Sometimes the solder does like "bridges" that when gets solid could connect a cutted trace

My first PS3 is dead as the connections on CPU board heavily damaged.
You may not believe it wasn't my first time to change thermal paste, I did many consoles few years ago but recently I disassembled it twice because the new thermal paste I put recently didn't make a difference on ihs so I decided to delid the CPU then happened what it happened unfortunately.
The next one same thing but as I mentioned I tried but stopped it as I could not remove ihs with gift card but I didn't make strong pressure on it that is why I am surprised, the only thing I did after watching a tutorial the same as what the guy did to slitley bended the two pieces of metal that attach the board with the heatsink to increase the pressure so the heatsink will firm the ihs after screwing them and I lastly checked the board looking for a crack but haven't found any appeared physical damage.
I suspect one of the weak solder balls under the CPU might cracked while I was trying to delid ihs as it overheated many times before.
BTW, when I turn it on it can't be turned off by pressing power button again or makes a beep while it boots up, just like frozen PS3


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[sandungas]

the only thing I did after watching a tutorial the same as what the guy did to slitley bended the two pieces of metal that attach the board with the heatsink to increase the pressure so the heatsink will firm the ihs after screwing them

This is right, that 2 metal plates in the practise are working like "springs" and are the responsibles of the pressure
Is hard to explain because this kind of things needs a drawing, but you can bend them a good amount (around 1cm more or so), this doesnt causes deformations on the motherboard because the heatsink of PS3 slims is like "floating" (yeah, this is the part hard to explain and to understand without a drawing)

As example, i bought a CECH-25xx in 2010, 6 months later i opened it to change thermal paste and i bent that metal plates (1cm in height exactly if i remember right), and is still working
So i dont think thats the problem

and I lastly checked the board looking for a crack but haven't found any appeared physical damage.
I suspect one of the weak solder balls under the CPU might cracked while I was trying to delid ihs as it overheated many times before.

The previous overheats could have damaged a solder ball, not completly because the PS3 was still working
Anyway, the bending of the metal plates (adding more pressure) should have "fixed" the damaged solder ball (maybe not completly, but it shoud allow the PS3 to turn on)
So again i dont think this is the problem

BTW, when I turn it on it can't be turned off by pressing power button again or makes a beep while it boots up, just like frozen PS3

I dont remember exactly what happens when you have a shorcut in motherboard caused by a bad assembly of the metal shields, but i think it was like that, it happened to me one time and i did learn the lesson (of course i had a unforgetable panic moment, i was like "WTF this is imposible!")

As mentioned before, you are at the point where you need to step back, tear it appart and reassemble it carefully

 

[Khabibov]

Thank you for trying to help me with it
One of the small IC is getting overheated when I turns it on, I don't know if it's normal or that is the issue makes it turnnig off again.

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[sandungas]

Thank you for trying to help me with it
One of the small IC is getting overheated when I turns it on, I don't know if it's normal or that is the issue makes it turnnig off again.View attachment 14088

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How much is heating, like enought to burn your finger ?, in that case i guess is a shorcut

And... in some way this is a good signal. The motherboard is protected against that kind of shorcuts and this is why is refusing to boot (to dont damage other components). In other words... maybe you dont have any component damaged

The component is a voltage regulator, i was looking at the pinout and posted it here:
http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:Regulators
Sadly i cant tell you where the output voltage goes... at that time i was messing around with a lot more components and i didnt cared (and could not imagine) what is feeded by each voltage regulator

If you want to try to find the shorcut i guess it should be in that V_OUT (pins 1,2,3,4,5,6), note in your photo (at bottom left of BD3525) all that pins are connected together... and the copper trace goes to 2 different places
-4 vias (holes) at top
-big black resistor (i guess) and to another 4 vias (holes) at left

The reason why there are 4 vias in each is because are 2 power lines (that carries a good amount of voltage), and most probably are dedicated to 2 components located at the other side of the motherboard

So... no idea which components could be, but are 2 and are feeded by the same voltage regulator BD3525




Edit:
Hmmmm... maybe are the power lines for the USB connectors... and the metal shields are doing a shorcut in the USB connectors pins ?

 

[Khabibov]

This ic is close to the CPU not the one close to usb ports , I cleaned the board both sides with alcohol and put it between CPU/RSX bases and the main board to make sure nothing is making short circuit but eventually the same thing, the small ic overheated, no video, no HD/WLAN lights, holding the power button while it's booting doesn't make any beeps, it still turns after 20 second , I know that's tiny holes on the main board that the the very small sticks from the heatsink shield go in , I told you it wasn't my first time replacing the thermal paste, my first time was years ago when I e3 flashed it [emoji16], everything went smoothly, but I guess now i am getting aged [emoji53] so that is the issue cause the problem.
What would you recommend?
I have now two boards one has dead CPU, the other has unknown issue, would you suggest that I should transfer the working CPU to the working board ,, but they are different models (2001/2501) , and then I need to buy re-balling tools [emoji47]!

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[Naked_Snake1995]

This ic is close to the CPU not the one close to usb ports , I cleaned the board both sides with alcohol and put it between CPU/RSX bases and the main board to make sure nothing is making short circuit but eventually the same thing, the small ic overheated, no video, no HD/WLAN lights, holding the power button while it's booting doesn't make any beeps, it still turns after 20 second , I know that's tiny holes on the main board that the the very small sticks from the heatsink shield go in , I told you it wasn't my first time replacing the thermal paste, my first time was years ago when I e3 flashed it [emoji16], everything went smoothly, but I guess now i am getting aged [emoji53] so that is the issue cause the problem.
What would you recommend?
I have now two boards one has dead CPU, the other has unknown issue, would you suggest that I should transfer the working CPU to the working board ,, but they are different models (2001/2501) , and then I need to buy re-balling tools [emoji47]!

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You should be able to reball a 2000 Series CELL into a 2500 Series board, since they both use 45nm process yeild, the problem might be, different BGA layout, since its a different revision, but what i can advise, its to check a X-Ray scan or something, of the BGA Layout used on a DYI-001 (CECH-2000), and a JTP/JSD-001 (CECH-2500), both JTP and JSD-001 should be identical, since both are from a 2500 Series.

Also another problem, between a 2000 Series and the 2500 Series CELL, might be the voltages, they run on, but it should be identical.

Another thing, what can i advise, its to find a SUR-001 Board, found on the CECH-2100, it uses the same CPU/GPU from a 2500, and the BD Drive from the 2000 Series, so a direct swap and a BD Remarry shouldn´t be an issue.

 

[sandungas]

This ic is close to the CPU not the one close to usb ports , I cleaned the board both sides with alcohol and put it between CPU/RSX bases and the main board to make sure nothing is making short circuit but eventually the same thing, the small ic overheated, no video, no HD/WLAN lights, holding the power button while it's booting doesn't make any beeps, it still turns after 20 second , I know that's tiny holes on the main board that the the very small sticks from the heatsink shield go in , I told you it wasn't my first time replacing the thermal paste, my first time was years ago when I e3 flashed it [emoji16], everything went smoothly, but I guess now i am getting aged [emoji53] so that is the issue cause the problem.
What would you recommend?
I have now two boards one has dead CPU, the other has unknown issue, would you suggest that I should transfer the working CPU to the working board ,, but they are different models (2001/2501) , and then I need to buy re-balling tools [emoji47]!

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If i put in your boots im a bit stucked with the idea of the shorcut, and (initially as far i can imagine) the only things can can create a shorcut are the metal shields, or bended pins in the connectors (USB, HDMI, etc...), or some metal "crap" in between pins of chips but you cleaned it with alcohol so dunno

So sorry to insist but when you are assembling the heatsink do you have the metal shield attached to it ?
You know... the heatsink metal block is attached to the metal shield with 4 or 5 small screws (black ones iirc)

Remove that screws and both metal shileds completly
Place the heatsink on top of CELL/RSX (with the old thermal paste, no need to waste new paste for this tests)
Hold the heatsink thight with the plates at his back and the huge black bolts
Place fan in his position and connect the fan cable
Connect the switch board for the buttons
Turn on PS3 motherboard

You only need:
-motherboard
-switch board (for the buttons pannel)
-psu
-heatsink with the metal plates at his back and the big black bolts well thighted
-fan

No metal shields, no hdd, no bluray drive, no wifi antennas, etc..
*Use "something" to prevent shorcuts in between motherboard and PSU (a t-shirt comes in handy usually)