PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Edwired said:
Jesus christ it the Antichrist again please give me a break it just a post I mentioned you think I'm going to buy the mini heat gun to just upset you jeez take a chill pill
Click to expand...

...? Exactly what did I say that was inappropriate or angry? I randomly picked a post about hot air to make a general point about anyone using hot air.
 
squeept said:
...? Exactly what did I say that was inappropriate or angry? I randomly picked a post about hot air to make a general point about anyone using hot air.
Click to expand...

If using bottom heating element like we both mentioned then finishing off with a hot air wand it will work still and not destroy the tokin caps plastic. as we both know all the work is done with the bottom temp, the top temp is just to finish it off so getting it close to 220* it will be good enough to remove and not destroy them.
 
i know the in and out of the ir-station that use light than using hot air station which blows way too much on little smd causing it to move or blow off or even melt plastic
 
Edwired said:
Did I clearly tell you a few pages back to not include me in your conversation???
Click to expand...

s715d8h.jpg


wrx884 said:
If using bottom heating element like we both mentioned then finishing off with a hot air wand it will work still and not destroy the tokin caps plastic. as we both know all the work is done with the bottom temp, the top temp is just to finish it off so getting it close to 220* it will be good enough to remove and not destroy them.
Click to expand...

Then your hot air is far better than mine, I can only do it with IR.
 
squeept said:
Then your hot air is far better than mine, I can only do it with IR.
Click to expand...

Its nothing fancy just a scotle 858D+ thats a few years old now, its all about that bottom temp though.

atm i can only do this with consoles that haven't been re-balled, all the ones ive attempted these repairs on that are still in YLOD state have leaded solder so the bottom temp gets the BGA's into liquid state which isnt good for just the purpose of removing the Tokins.
 
wrx884 said:
Its nothing fancy just a scotle 858D+ thats a few years old now, its all about that bottom temp though.

atm i can only do this with consoles that haven't been re-balled, all the ones ive attempted these repairs on that are still in YLOD state have leaded solder so the bottom temp gets the BGA's into liquid state which isnt good for just the purpose of removing the Tokins.
Click to expand...

Well I've never actually tried hot air to take the TOKINs off intact since my big preheater is .... my IR station. So if I've already got it on there, I'm just gonna use the IR top. I'm only speaking from my experiences on handheld boards with plastic connectors where I've tried using my standalone tiny preheater with hot air on top. Never could get it to work without at least warping. Luckily handheld boards are thinner, so when I need to harvest a connector from a dead board I just set fire to the opposite side of the board with max heat and smack it against the table. No top heat at all!
 
squeept said:
Well I've never actually tried hot air to take the TOKINs off intact since my big preheater is .... my IR station. So if I've already got it on there, I'm just gonna use the IR top. I'm only speaking from my experiences on handheld boards with plastic connectors where I've tried using my standalone tiny preheater with hot air on top. Never could get it to work without at least warping. Luckily handheld boards are thinner, so when I need to harvest a connector from a dead board I just set fire to the opposite side of the board with max heat and smack it against the table. No top heat at all!
Click to expand...

Give it a shot, i use my scotle IR station as the bottom heater too i just find i can only remove 2 tokins if i use my IR top heater with it as its only 80x80 so its kind of localised then u need to wait for the machine to cool down each time to try the next lot. Flux is the only pain in the arse doing it this way as it goes through the vias and onto the bottom plates and can actually catch fire lol but im sure u already know this.
 
Then again you both still missing the bigger picture how do you remove something without heat and irfrared and cause no damage without warping etc this would test your knowledge and get back with an answer
 
Edwired said:
Then again you both still missing the bigger picture how do you remove something without heat and irfrared and cause no damage without warping etc this would test your knowledge and get back with an answer
Click to expand...

LOL is this a trick question or?? hahaha

The bigger picture is to find which cap is bad, thats it.
 
By the time I get the ps3 I'm gonna try a different method than using a thick gauge wire. It just dawn on me that paper clip is smaller and have a thick plastic coating on them which would suit the route from v-in to v-out than rather going around the bend with a think wire as it too messy looking in my opinion
 
In another retro gaming forum that I am on, the folks there sometimes mentioned that capacitor types were selected due to their characteristics. Replacing them with another type, sometimes worked, but sometimes did not do the job. That was due to ESR ratings, or because the circuit required a certain characteristic of the original type.

Edwired said:
By the time I get the ps3 I'm gonna try a different method than using a thick gauge wire. It just dawn on me that paper clip is smaller and have a thick plastic coating on them which would suit the route from v-in to v-out than rather going around the bend with a think wire as it too messy looking in my opinion
Click to expand...
At least consider getting the right parts. If you only have thick wires (particularly the mains cable type), consider getting a suitable one.
I cannot imagine soldering a paper clip to something that was probably soldered by a machine. A paper clip is still quite thick and is hard to bend (it is not made of copper). Would solder even stick to it?
 
Well I did the test on paperclip theory it pretty much metal mainly as soft steel with some sort of tin/nickal coating. It can be soldered at the tip of it as you see what I'm trying to do is make it a straight line from v-in to v-out it where the flow isnt effected where the wire have to do the bend in worse case if the wire melted it can cause the short anything at around NEC tokin. The way I see it a couple of paperclips maybe four little ones or two big ones and do it twisted pair as it only going to supply less than 1.5v or whatever way it does from v-in to v-out I haven't figured out what amp/current from that yet but I'm willing to try it as I only bought the ps3 for €20 as I have nothing to lose here.

The part I got stated this sorry about the bold oversized text it from mouser site
2R5TPE470M9

Mfr.:
Panasonic

Description:
Tantalum Capacitors - Polymer SMD 2.5volts 470uF ESR 9mohm
 
Last edited:
I'm finished with the CECHA01 test. They're not completely isolated, but it's enough to get an accurate reading for both capacitance and ESR. Remember you're measuring all 4 at once, so it should be within 20% of 4800. ESR should read lots o' zeroes. Resistance should be ....well, just not shorted.

Step 1: Lift the GPU. It needs to be removed to help isolate the caps, and once you have the reading that proves the caps are fine, you're going to be reballing it anyway.
Step 2: Pull 3 resistors.
Step 3: Measure.
Step 4: Reball with confidence.

YBXNUJ4.jpg

UgBWPl4.jpg

XPIaUOS.jpg
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
But what i wanted to try is with a Thin Fishing Line, by creating friction between the line and the epoxy, should cut it in a nice slice, without even worrying about the CELL, but that could take hours
emoji23.png
Click to expand...

1 or 2lb line would be enough, anything heavier or thicker and you defo will be there for hours..... but I would use cheap line, there's no way I would raid the fishing gear I have just for this... not a chance lol.
 
Instead of a fishing line you can try also with a guitar cord (the most thinner one made with a single core of steel)
Im not sure if is going to be too much thick though... if i remember right... the distance in between CELL IHS and the substrate is around 0.45 milimeters

There are also some tools to remove the smartphone screens that are made with a line and 2 rings (the rings are to insert a finger of each hand in them)
large-mudwire-wire-cut-off.jpg


And i tryed it with "dental floss" (i was not expecting it to work good enought but anyway, for science)... the funny thing is it was working
The problem is this dental floss is made with fibers... everytime you move it left or right (to cut the silicone like a saw) some fibers breaks, and after 15 or 20 movements the dental floss breaks
It can be seen how the dental floss removes some silicone material and becomes grey (because the silicone is grey)
Anyway... i went tired of continuing with it, i just made one corner of CELL and it took me lot of work (and some hurt in the fingers)
let-s-talk-trash-powell-river.jpg

*Sample of a woman delidding his teeth with dental floss :D
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top