PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Ok, I've dug out my CECHc and disassembled it for the millionth time.

I see a total of 8 nec/tokin caps. 2 for rsx and 2 for cell (just like your pics/diagrams) but, there's another set of 2 for each directly opposite of the motherboard to where your pics discribe...

I'm really not familiar with electronics much, I'm just good at soldering and following instruction. But... Are we bypassing the old caps because the new caps take over....? I'm just confused as to what the rest of these leftover nec tokin caps are doing after adding the new ones

Edit: picture for reference. Nec tokin caps underneath IHS of cell/rsx

20190716_195521.jpg
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
Ok, I've dug out my CECHc and disassembled it for the millionth time.

I see a total of 8 nec/tokin caps. 2 for rsx and 2 for cell (just like your pics/diagrams) but, there's another set of 2 for each directly opposite of the motherboard to where your pics discribe...

I'm really not familiar with electronics much, I'm just good at soldering and following instruction. But... Are we bypassing the old caps because the new caps take over....? I'm just confused as to what the rest of these leftover nec tokin caps are doing after adding the new ones

Edit: picture for reference. Nec tokin caps underneath IHS of cell/rsx

View attachment 19124
Click to expand...
You can start from the bottom or from the top, the procedure is the same, although i recommend to start from the top side on the 1st RSX NEC Cap, i do mention that in this tutorial, replace just one NEC and test, if it doesn't work, proceed to the next one and so on.

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Oh how I wish I had the three A-01's I used to have. Still have my trusty B-01 though. Still going strong and never an issue as it got delidded around firmware 2.70 and runs as cool as my slim models.
 
Cypher_CG89 said:
Well considering the Network Adapter on the PS3 is old as hell and well outdate there is nothing you can do about that......
Click to expand...

that's why i've said that after delid and caps changing only real hassle left to deal with is networking.you can find nitpicks and details always (codecs/formats supported,ps1/compatability and emus,sata speed/controller etc) but aspect that impacts ease of everyday use is really only networking.BD drive (and even without it nowadays),thermals,acoustics,longetivity,format,controllers...are fine even in 2019.
 
I think the PS3 is a tank!! It is by far my most beloved system. Used to be my Dreamcast but I pretty much stopped gaming after it's demise aside from a few series like Castlevania and GameCube exclusives. The PS3 really rekindled my love for games again. I can play most anything I want with it. Infact I only have my PS3, PSTV & PS Classic hooked up nowadays. Maybe one day I will see if I can get someone to do this to my PS3 if it ever acts up as I don't like to fiddle with the guts of my B-01 after I got the teensy++ installed.
 
I made an account on here to say that you are a genius lol.

Also I wanted to ask which side are you referring to as the top side? I went ahead and already removed the capacitors on the side that does NOT show the Cell and RSX (Since this looks like the side that appears in your diagram). I ordered 16 replacement capacitors, if this works then i look forward to bringing back two chech-A01's that i thought were long gone.
 
umart666 said:
only real hassle left to deal with is networking
Click to expand...

This is why I said using the adatper for PS3 with no WiFi> ie.. 1st GEN Phats then thats the issue with WiFi sorted. You just have to put up with the speeds of them......

atreyu187 said:
I think the PS3 is a tank!! It is by far my most beloved system. Used to be my Dreamcast
Click to expand...

If they are looked after they are as far as am concerned, all my PS3 have had some serious abuse but been looked after apart from the CECH4003A which withstood riddiculas temps for at least 2 years as I never did the thermal paste till last year and I bought it brand new when they first were released.> It prove to be a genuine tank lol.

As for the Dreamcast... that was an awsome console> House of the Dead with 2 light guns= awesome, plus Jet Set Radio was a cool game as well and lets not forget Soul Caliber. Had mine mod chipped.
 
Sampsonay said:
I made an account on here to say that you are a genius lol.

Also I wanted to ask which side are you referring to as the top side? I went ahead and already removed the capacitors on the side that does NOT show the Cell and RSX (Since this looks like the side that appears in your diagram). I ordered 16 replacement capacitors, if this works then i look forward to bringing back two chech-A01's that i thought were long gone.
Click to expand...

When i mentioned top side, i was referring to the side that the chipsets are not exposed, which means when you remove the top part on the EMI Sheild, in all honesty you can begin wherever you want,top side,bottom it doesnt really matter,but i would start in a ordering sequence, from the top part of the Motherboard,all down to the Chipsets ,bottom part.
 
This is really big news. Thank you for your efforts to bring this issue to light.

Does this apply to the "different kinds" of YLOD? Like for the instant YLOD and the "slow" one?
 
Laith said:
This is really big news. Thank you for your efforts to bring this issue to light.

Does this apply to the "different kinds" of YLOD? Like for the instant YLOD and the "slow" one?
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A normal YLOD would last between 3/5 seconds, there are cases of instant YLOD once you boot the machine, such cases are, Scratched Traces, CPU Delid Failure, NEC/TOKIN Removal without any replacement, Resistors Failure, on many others.

You can try on any YLOD machine as you like, the timing of YLOD it's just for reference, so long as the machine has never been touched before, this its guaranteed to work.

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it's very risking when a man working with motherboard
soldering skills and all tools must be need
and also heat gun should be need
we need professional soldering skills like this video
 
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Md Hesam said:
it's very risking when a man working with motherboard
soldering skills and all tools must be need
and also heat gun should be need
we need professional soldering skills like this video
Click to expand...
Risky if you manage to mess up, this isn't a fix for the fainted heart, risk are evolved such as scratching a trace if you try to remove something the wrong way, i don't recommended using the heatgun, not only it won't remove anything, as it will also contribute further risks of damaging any nearby parts.

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Naked_Snake1995 said:
Risky if you manage to mess up, this isn't a fix for the fainted heart, risk are evolved such as scratching a trace if you try to remove something the wrong way, i don't recommended using the heatgun, not only it won't remove anything, as it will also contribute further risks of damaging any nearby parts.

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Click to expand...
How is your soldering skills?
I think your soldering skills like this video
 
Made an account just to comment on this. So does this mean that we (as in the PS3 community) have been wrong in saying that the YLOD is primarily caused by BGA failure? Do the early RSX chips not die as commonly as we thought or are the NEC capacitors just another point of failure? If the RSX chips aren't dying left and right and are more of a light issue in comparison to the capacitors (which can be replaced by anyone who knows their way around a soldering iron along with a steady hand whereas the RSX needs specialized equipment to replace) then all of my worries about the early PS3 systems are completely diminished.
 
For the absolute best result, is it worth replacing all NEC caps all at once?
Also, any UK based supplier recommendations?
 
SEGA-CD said:
Made an account just to comment on this. So does this mean that we (as in the PS3 community) have been wrong in saying that the YLOD is primarily caused by BGA failure? Do the early RSX chips not die as commonly as we thought or are the NEC capacitors just another point of failure? If the RSX chips aren't dying left and right and are more of a light issue in comparison to the capacitors (which can be replaced by anyone who knows their way around a soldering iron along with a steady hand whereas the RSX needs specialized equipment to replace) then all of my worries about the early PS3 systems are completely diminished.
Click to expand...

I have some faith in this.
There are millions of devices out there with lead free solder (the main reasoning behind overheating and solder cracking)
Why haven't these devices shown the same symptoms as the ps3? Lead free solder has been around for over 10 years... and only the ps3 happens to suffer from this design flaw? I'm not so sure.

I'm in the process of buying caps to try this on my CechC. Hoping for good things
 
SEGA-CD said:
Made an account just to comment on this. So does this mean that we (as in the PS3 community) have been wrong in saying that the YLOD is primarily caused by BGA failure? Do the early RSX chips not die as commonly as we thought or are the NEC capacitors just another point of failure? If the RSX chips aren't dying left and right and are more of a light issue in comparison to the capacitors (which can be replaced by anyone who knows their way around a soldering iron along with a steady hand whereas the RSX needs specialized equipment to replace) then all of my worries about the early PS3 systems are completely diminished.
Click to expand...
In short words yes, sometimes reballing has legitimate ways to repair, but the RSX only dies when you have Artifacts or No Display, more commonly known as GLOD.

This myth about the lead free-solderballs started from someone without any knowledge on the topic, just because reballing works, doesn't mean reballing its fixing what isn't broke in the first place.

If the BGA Aloy was indeed the issue, i guaranteed you all revisions of the PlayStation3 would die a premature death, yet they don't, and Nm Lithography has nothing to do with cooler temps, ive seen Phat machines running much cooler than they're Slim/Super Slim counterparts.

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