PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

For the absolute best result, is it worth replacing all NEC caps all at once?
Also, any UK based supplier recommendations?
For the best result, yes replacement of all NECs its advised, the more NECs you get rid of the board the better, you can run them all with Tantalums, just don't forget to bridge each on like described in the guide, since by removing the NECs you are removing the internal jumper inside the NEC.

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How is your soldering skills?
I think your soldering skills like this video
My soldering skills are good enough to get me through, not professionally, but also i don't make a big mess, when you soldering you want to have the cleanest job possible.

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I have some faith in this.
There are millions of devices out there with lead free solder (the main reasoning behind overheating and solder cracking)
Why haven't these devices shown the same symptoms as the ps3? Lead free solder has been around for over 10 years... and only the ps3 happens to suffer from this design flaw? I'm not so sure.

I'm in the process of buying caps to try this on my CechC. Hoping for good things

I might try to find a YLOD model with the warranty seal intact to try it out. Please report back your results, I and everyone else would be very interested in the results!

In short words yes, sometimes reballing has legitimate ways to repair, but the RSX only dies when you have Artifacts or No Display, more commonly known as GLOD.

This myth about the lead free-solderballs started from someone without any knowledge on the topic, just because reballing works, doesn't mean reballing its fixing what isn't broke in the first place.

If the BGA Aloy was indeed the issue, i guaranteed you all revisions of the PlayStation3 would die a premature death, yet they don't, and Nm Lithography has nothing to do with cooler temps, ive seen Phat machines running much cooler than they're Slim/Super Slim counterparts.

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I've never believed the reball stuff because the system can die again in a matter of months, if it was truly a fix the systems would last. As far as I know that's a 360 issue and that's why people assumed the same with PS3. I always heard and believed that the internals of the chip itself warped due to the heating/cooling cycle because that's what happened to similar chips during the same era.

If a PS3 has the typical YLOD upon boot (turn on from stand by, go green for a couple seconds, then flash yellow for a brief second, finally blinking red until you turn off the system) is that a possible signifier of failed capacitors? Last I knew the capacitor failure was attributed to false YLOD when playing intensive games and YLOD after several minutes but I never delved too deep into this area.
 
I might try to find a YLOD model with the warranty seal intact to try it out. Please report back your results, I and everyone else would be very interested in the results!



I've never believed the reball stuff because the system can die again in a matter of months, if it was truly a fix the systems would last. As far as I know that's a 360 issue and that's why people assumed the same with PS3. I always heard and believed that the internals of the chip itself warped due to the heating/cooling cycle because that's what happened to similar chips during the same era.

If a PS3 has the typical YLOD upon boot (turn on from stand by, go green for a couple seconds, then flash yellow for a brief second, finally blinking red until you turn off the system) is that a possible signifier of failed capacitors? Last I knew the capacitor failure was attributed to false YLOD when playing intensive games and YLOD after several minutes but I never delved too deep into this area.
There are results already shown, personally i fixed my CECHC04, other lads fixed models between the C04s to A01s and many others, the results has been positive so far.

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There are results already shown, personally i fixed my CECHC04, other lads fixed models between the C04s to A01s and many others, the results has been positive so far.

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That's good to hear. Do you have any links to the systems others have fixed? I would love to read through some stuff.
 
I might try to find a YLOD model with the warranty seal intact to try it out. Please report back your results, I and everyone else would be very interested in the results!



I've never believed the reball stuff because the system can die again in a matter of months, if it was truly a fix the systems would last. As far as I know that's a 360 issue and that's why people assumed the same with PS3. I always heard and believed that the internals of the chip itself warped due to the heating/cooling cycle because that's what happened to similar chips during the same era.

If a PS3 has the typical YLOD upon boot (turn on from stand by, go green for a couple seconds, then flash yellow for a brief second, finally blinking red until you turn off the system) is that a possible signifier of failed capacitors? Last I knew the capacitor failure was attributed to false YLOD when playing intensive games and YLOD after several minutes but I never delved too deep into this area.
The 360 used an ATI Chip, and ATI Chips from that era were known to have a Solder-Joint and Substrate issue, which also manifested into the XBOX360, the PlayStation3 on the otherhand never had any issues regarding Graphics Chips, the 7800s were pretty efficient in theyre own way,one problem they have,but its not really a concern, its the Substrate failure, like any other Graphics Chip,if its tortured to 80ºCs+, which is bound to show artifacts or even give the GLOD,which only a RSX replacement will fix it.

Remind that Microsoft only fixed this issue in the 65nm era, with the Jasper boards "i think", the original Xenons where prone to failure from day one, not to mention they rushed the console without any proper testing, they took a big hit in the process,but at least they managed, although a Sony loyal consumer, the XBOX 360 its a great console to won, it had its flaws such as the PC Style Disc drive,and the external power brick,not to menton HDD Encryption,but beyond that its a great console to won, had a S Model,but gave it to a friend, now i am searching for a Red "Resident Evil 5" Jasper 360,just because it looks good, not to mention Forza,still haven´t played thoes, but the Xbox One, oh dear,not touching that :)
 
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The 360 used an ATI Chip, and ATI Chips from that era were known to have a Solder-Joint and Substrate issue, which also manifested into the XBOX360, the PlayStation3 on the otherhand never had any issues regarding Graphics Chips, the 7800s were pretty efficient in theyre own way,one problem they have,but its not really a concern, its the Substrate failure, like any other Graphics Chip,if its tortured to 80ºCs+, which is bound to show artifacts or even give the GLOD,which only a RSX replacement will fix it.

Remind that Microsoft only fixed this issue in the 65nm era, with the Jasper boards "i think", the original Xenons where prone to failure from day one, not to mention they rushed the console without any proper testing, they took a big hit in the process,but at least they managed, although a Sony loyal consumer, the XBOX 360 its a great console to won, it had its flaws such as the PC Style Disc drive,and the external power brick,not to menton HDD Encryption,but beyond that its a great console to won, had a S Model,but gave it to a friend, now i am searching for a Red "Resident Evil 5" Jasper 360,just because it looks good, not to mention Forza,still haven´t played thoes, but the Xbox One, oh dear,not touching that :)
I love the Original Xbox and the 360, I actually prefer the OG Xbox to the PS2 in many ways, part of me will never forgive Sony and the PS2 for pushing Sega out of the console market. Xbox One is I think best described as soulless, it has zero character and distinct attributes. I mainly use mine for the backwards compatibility. PS4 is definitely the best system this generation. I find the Switch to be overrated honestly, most of the games are ports that I already own on other platforms, even a lot of first party titles like MK8 and BOTW are available on Wii U. It's looking like this will change in the future though so maybe my opinion on it will change.

Back on topic though where did you get your capacitors? I couldn't find any though I admittedly didn't look too hard. Thinking about picking up a set to keep for the future in case I ever get the YLOD and maybe for a project system.
 
So I followed your repair, and it works despite my crappy soldering skills lol. Thanks again for this post, this is a really great contribution of info to the PS3 community and i'll be sure to use it to help bring back many dead systems.

UPDATE!
It did NOT work! I would recommend following the guide linked below to properly diagnose your console before attempting any sort of repair!

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/r...in-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-192
 
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So I followed your repair, and it works despite my crappy soldering skills lol. Thanks again for this post, this is a really great contribution of info to the PS3 community and i'll be sure to use it to help bring back many dead systems.

I posted my results on reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/cff5hg/ylod_conclusion_capacitors_are_the_problem_not/
Good to know, i expect harsh responses, thats normal from people whom never heard of this, so ill expect people still defend reballing as definitive fix, but i am not to bothered about it, as long as people test it and report back, and do some research, all YLOD units can be brought back.
 
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ill expect people still defend reballing as definitive fix, but i am not to bothered about it, as long as people test it and report back, and do some research, all YLOD units can be brought back.
all of the endlesselectronics and gophermods reballed systems are dead at this point if that says anything lol
 
So i have a 20GB Backwards Compatible System. if the system is cooler then 60C it will crash in PS1 games with the YLOD or if i turn off the system with the power button/software-options, it will shut off then immediately do 3-beeps with no YLOD. if the system is warmer then 60C none of these issues seem to happen...(from my experience) when it hasn't been turned on for a week it will take 2 or more tries to power on the system without YLOD. so would this perhaps fix these issues i'm having?
 
My suggestion is to buy then in places like aliexpress, if you have an account is awesome to buy electronics components, the prices are awesome, and usually free shipping
Ebay is a good place to buy electronics components too
Dealextreme for some stuff

For the quality i would not matter much... low cost manufacturers are ok, and is better to buy a "bag" of them
The rule to follow is a new capacitor (even of the lowest quality) is much better than a capacitor weared out (even if it was of the best quality)
 
My suggestion is to buy then in places like aliexpress, if you have an account is awesome to buy electronics components, the prices are awesome, and usually free shipping
Ebay is a good place to buy electronics components too
Dealextreme for some stuff

For the quality i would not matter much... low cost manufacturers are ok, and is better to buy a "bag" of them
The rule to follow is a new capacitor (even of the lowest quality) is much betetr than a capacitor weared out (even if it was of the best quality)

I will try China stores
 
China's are the best sometimes for electronics :encouragement:

When i was talking with Naked_Snake1995 about this i was taking a look at aliexpress to try to find the cheapest ones... and there was 2 or 3 announces with a bag of them (dont remember if it was 30 or 50 units) for 6$ or so and free shipping

Thats the kind of offer you should try to find, because for a good repair is needed to replace all the tokins (just incase)

If someone wants to go really cheap you should try to replace first the tokins related with RSX (because are more prone to failure)... and later the tokins for CELL incase is needed

But as said... the good repair is to replace all the tokins... because all them are working at all times... if you have one (or a couple) damaged most probably the others are about to become damaged
To prevent that is better to replace all them
 
China's are the best sometimes for electronics :encouragement:

When i was talking with Naked_Snake1995 about this i was taking a look at aliexpress to try to find the cheapest ones... and there was 2 or 3 announces with a bag of them (dont remember if it was 30 or 50 units) for 6$ or so and free shipping

Thats the kind of offer you should try to find, because for a good repair is needed to replace all the tokins (just incase)

If someone wants to go really cheap you should try to replace first the tokins related with RSX (because are more prone to failure)... and later the tokins for CELL incase is needed

But as said... the good repair is to replace all the tokins... because all them are working at all times... if you have one (or a couple) damaged most probably the others are about to become damaged
To prevent that is better to replace all them

WOW!! Only $6, amazing deal. I will search deep, my first skim over Ebay and local electronics suppliers came to a whopping £30, so $6 is worth hunting down
 
Yep, is a big difference if you buy them in lots
I dont remember how many are needed right now, this depends of the capacitance in uf units btw... are connected in paralell so you need to sum them to find the total capacitance

In some PS3 models the tokins from factory are 1200uF (PS3 fat) and in others are 1000uF (Slim)
You need to equal or exceed this value by the total sum of the new tantalum capacitors

If you do it with tantalum capacitors of 330uf each... you will need more... but are cheaper as far i know

This is one of the announces we was commenting in private
https://es.aliexpress.com/popular/330uf-tantalum-capacitor-smd.html

The magic words (for a succes search) are:
330 tantalum capacitor smd

Try to search for that (and eventually the word "lot" too)
 
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