PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

The voltage is just a rating that shows basically thats the max it can handle before any issue may arise. The voltage will only pull what it needs from the power rail and so far thats been seen around 1.6V. 2.5V is recommended as thats what the originals are so it almost gives us 1V in variance "if" its needed which is plenty of room but it shouldn't.
 
Hello, I thought I would contribute my effort at replacement of all 8 nec/tokin capacitors with 32 tantalum capacitors sadly I still have ylod, this fix I thought was worth a try but I think cpu or rsx is bad substrate damage possibly but I dont have ocilascop to be for sure so I am going to scrap the idea lots of work to take a chance that it may work console is a junk CECHG I seem to run into weird problems with these models always. Just my opinion. I will be trying this on some other models when I have time because it was fairly easy thanks everyone for all the info for something new to try.:sfun oldguy:
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@Yugonibblit I don't like that jumper lol. What does the fan do when you turn on the PS3? How many seconds until the PS3 turns off?

In this case I believe that cechG is trying to boot, 'cause what I know until now, is that YLOD doesn't have to do with shorts or bad RSX/CELL contact with the mobo. If one of them is not in a good condition, you'll have a GLOD. If it is a short, instant turn off with red light blinking.
 
@demetris Are you adding those in paralel along with the tantalums? BTW, the paper writing has a typo, and it says nano, not micro.


You need more brute force. I use at least 24 per console. 16 on the RSX, and the rest on CELL. If the console is still trying to boot, you didn't messed up, but if the console just shutdown the next yyou turn it on, then you have a short. I don't think so, if you some electrical tape over the caps, there's no risk. Add more on the RSX, and listen to the fan behaviour, 'cause if launchs at high speed in just a few seconds, you'll have to delid before even try to use it. The important thing is that the PS3 is still trying to boot.

So, I need more, ok. But do I add those 24 on one side? Or should I remove some NEC from the other side aswell?
Well, I got back to the point, as if I have no tantalums in there. I power it up, it takes about 3 seconds and it gives me the YLOD and the 3 beeps again.

The fan was surprisingly quiet, during the entire time. I don't think I have to delid or smth like that.

The biggest problem right now is that one of the screws of the CPU holding / pressing bracket hat now a defective threading... And I simply can't find them on ebay. So, if I ever open up the console again, I won't be able to close it back up.

PS: The caps I am using are 6,3 V.
 
@Yugonibblit I don't like that jumper lol. What does the fan do when you turn on the PS3? How many seconds until the PS3 turns off?

In this case I believe that cechG is trying to boot, 'cause what I know until now, is that YLOD doesn't have to do with shorts or bad RSX/CELL contact with the mobo. If one of them is not in a good condition, you'll have a GLOD. If it is a short, instant turn off with red light blinking.
The console boots but has glod rsx must be cooked wich leads me to believe that it needs new rsx and reball but I'm no competitor or expert
 
So, I need more, ok. But do I add those 24 on one side? Or should I remove some NEC from the other side aswell?
Well, I got back to the point, as if I have no tantalums in there. I power it up, it takes about 3 seconds and it gives me the YLOD and the 3 beeps again.

The fan was surprisingly quiet, during the entire time. I don't think I have to delid or smth like that.

The biggest problem right now is that one of the screws of the CPU holding / pressing bracket hat now a defective threading... And I simply can't find them on ebay. So, if I ever open up the console again, I won't be able to close it back up.

PS: The caps I am using are 6,3 V.
The voltaje is fine, you should put 4 per tokin on the RSX, 16 in total. On the CELL you can only put 8 from just one side. The RSX is the one that needs a lot of power, so that's why you need to replace all of them. After that it should boot, at least from what I saw with the ones I revived.
 
The voltaje is fine, you should put 4 per tokin on the RSX, 16 in total. On the CELL you can only put 8 from just one side. The RSX is the one that needs a lot of power, so that's why you need to replace all of them. After that it should boot, at least from what I saw with the ones I revived.
I did replace all 32 tantalum capacitors look closely at pictures, also controllers do not sink or charge they were working properly before the YLOD
 
Oops, well read my mistaken reply
This was your reply to me?..............

ElGrisMember
@Yugonibblit I don't like that jumper lol. What does the fan do when you turn on the PS3? How many seconds until the PS3 turns off?

In this case I believe that cechG is trying to boot, 'cause what I know until now, is that YLOD doesn't have to do with shorts or bad RSX/CELL contact with the mobo. If one of them is not in a good condition, you'll have a GLOD. If it is a short, instant turn off with red light blinking.
 
Yeap. I still don't understand that GLOD you have, and then a YLOD? GLOD is when your system it's running but shows no image. What you see about your GLOD maybe is the system having no the amount of power on the RSX to show any image. I had that problem with a cechA, but that had overheating too.
 
Yeap. I still don't understand that GLOD you have, and then a YLOD? GLOD is when your system it's running but shows no image. What you see about your GLOD maybe is the system having no the amount of power on the RSX to show any image. I had that problem with a cechA, but that had overheating too.
The console just YLOD 3 DAYS ago,I replaced all tantalum, and the console boots fine but now GLOD and also controllers will not sink or charge. I found that kind of strange. Never had any problems with the controllers. The console was never opened before that. So not totally positive it's the rsx but I don't know?
 
The console just YLOD 3 DAYS ago,I replaced all tantalum, and the console boots fine but now GLOD and also controllers will not sink or charge. I found that kind of strange. Never had any problems with the controllers. The console was never opened before that. So not totally positive it's the rsx but I don't know?
So it does boot, but you can't sync the controllers nor have a picture, well thats GLOD alright, i had the same on a 7D Datacode 60Gb CECHC04 a year ago while playing NFS Underground 2, mind that this was before i made the thread, so I didn't replace nothing on it, i had two 60Gb back then, one that GLODed and another that is still working today, with the NEC to Tantalums replaced, the other GLOD as far as i can tell its the Substrate on the RSX that has bite the bullet, so i really preserve the RSX more than the CELL.

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The console just YLOD 3 DAYS ago,I replaced all tantalum, and the console boots fine but now GLOD and also controllers will not sink or charge. I found that kind of strange. Never had any problems with the controllers. The console was never opened before that. So not totally positive it's the rsx but I don't know?
Then you damaged the RSX, or something happened to it. Clean it and see if you didn't break or hit one of the sides of it. Even small deformations will leave you without image. In my case, when I damaged mine, the RSX went on short, and it's easy to see 'cause a few capacitors from one side were all in short, and the PS3 obviously gave me a short circuit light type.
 
That's what I've been noticing. I have to buy another batch of tantalums to finish this project, but I'm thinking of buying 2.5V ones, hoping they'll be easier to install. Should I replace all my 6.3v with 2.5v though? Or do I have to worry about mixing voltages if I don't, even when then have the same 470uf capacitance? It's been a very long time since I've had to calculate voltage on serialized components.

That voltage of the caps don't matter as long as they are equal to or higher than the requirement (2.5v). Capacitors add capacitance when wired in parallel and having more capacitance doesn't hurt because these are filtering out AC current (ripples). It's when the capacitors lose capacitance that you start having problems like YLOD in the PS3.
 
Then you damaged the RSX, or something happened to it. Clean it and see if you didn't break or hit one of the sides of it. Even small deformations will leave you without image. In my case, when I damaged mine, the RSX went on short, and it's easy to see 'cause a few capacitors from one side were all in short, and the PS3 obviously gave me a short circuit light type.
There is no damage to RSX, I think it's cooked as @Naked_Snake1995 said GLOD, but I can't completely sure without testing the RSX, the console was on 24/7 and always playing GT 6 . Because I love the game. I have many other consoles. Just didn't want to give up on it I may put new RSX on but I think I will try this fix on my CECHA01 AND CECHB01 consoles next .
 
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The console has booted successfully!!!!!!!!, a small piece of wire was stuck on the motherboard I could barely see it must of fell of wire cutters dam! So glad I double checked like @ElGris said! Now everything is cool even my temps are cooler! Yeah it lives!:grenade::chewie:
What can i say, another successful console brought from the dead, outstanding job lad [emoji106]

PS: Is that a CECHB on the left corner, i am so jealous when i see B Models, want to import one, but the European Import Taxes are a rip off, oh well... Vive la Europe? [emoji1787]

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
View attachment 23660 View attachment 23657 View attachment 23658
The console has booted successfully!!!!!!!!, a small piece of wire was stuck on the motherboard I could barely see it must of fell of wire cutters dam! So glad I double checked like @ElGris said! Now everything is cool even my temps are cooler! Yeah it lives!:grenade::chewie:
What is the model of that PS3 dude ? my CECHA01 , my CECHE01 and my CECHL01 i did the replacement are working like a charm since that. Only replacing the necs on top of the board did the trick without using any wire or something like that because i leaved the necs under the board like a 50/50 tantalums/necs. (i used black tape to isolate the tantalums). Im trying to search for a YLOD CECHB01 but damn its hard as hell to find one of these PS3's.
 
What can i say, another successful console brought from the dead, outstanding job lad [emoji106]

PS: Is that a CECHB on the left corner, i am so jealous when i see B Models, want to import one, but the European Import Taxes are a rip off, oh well... Vive la Europe? [emoji1787]

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
That seems to be a CECHA/C or E model because it has the chromed trim, B models are hard to find even in the americas those models are ultra rare and hard to find one working properly sadly :/
 
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