PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[128x.k]

https://imgur.com/a/gJ8Si2r

That's my CECHA full of tantalums working just fine. I add a wire per side on both processors just in case, and added 3 per NEC on CELL 'cause that was enough to run any game without any problem. The RSX is the one that needs a lot of power.

Connect the HDMI (or A/V) to the TV and see if the PS3 is trying to give you image before shutdown (screen going blank/black, changes in resolution, etc). Those tantalums you have are very nice, more value than they should be.

If adding 4 per NEC on RSX doesn't fix the problem then you could also try a delid on CELL, as @Yugonibblit said in other thread, having a YLOD sometimes means too much hot on CELL's die. But leave this step at last, because it's dangerous for your mobo.

I think the RSX should be fine, because if is in short, you get an instant YLOD.

Hey! I actually delid a long time ago both chips, didnt damage anything ran great with delid for a year, then again for 2 months after i heated nec.

Now i have 1-2 second ylod after doing most recent solder work 4 caps per chip with one bridge i will add second bridge tomo just to see.

If this doesnt work can i check fuses? Where and how do i check them is there a video or anything by anychance? Lmk thanks!

 

[Elias_T-man]

where are u from وين مكان سكنك[/QUOTE]
Turkmenistan.

 

[Cruosh]

Hi. This is my first post.
I am from Croatia and I like this tread. I read 80%. Its very intresting.I have ps3 80gb CECHK04 DIA - 002
Well YLOD. Fast. If cold.
But when I try some 30 times to start. Every time goes further. Later i manage to even open yotube chanal an watch for 10 minutes and again YLOD.
I take it apart and chech PSU.
3.28v 5.07v 12.xx but looks ok.
I change hdd drive just to test cos with no drive works some 6-8 seconds cold.
But again. All same.
Now i order aliexpress 470 and 330 from links finded here. But there is delay in shipping.
I find some at conad.de but dont know what is this.
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/wuerth-e...ondensator-7343-470-f-2-5-v-1-st-1925777.html
If this is good i will order.

I did fix som monitors with bad caps but thats all. It ugly but works 5years from then. Bad caps are plague of modern electronic.
Can any one give me some links from eu where i can buy them cheep.

And guys , what You think is best thing to do now?

 

[yarrowman1]

guys i have a chechc04 and when i start the ps3 without´the necs on rsx at the back, it works fine and boots in xmb. Will gt6 and last of us run without crashes or not? when not, can i atleast play ps2 games?

 

[Chumdiddy1]

@Chumdiddy1 Little secret: When removing NECs, add some new tin to the extrem of the "rails" of every NEC, and with the solder iron mark the external part of every one of them, so you'll soft it. The tin used on those rails is pretty old, meaning it will be more difficult to remove. Removing tin from this mobo is very hard because is a BIG plate, and a big plate can dissipate a lot of heat. Always be gentile.

"I have the same readings from my yellow caps. Hard fluctuations and always around 350uf, not 470."

Answer: China.

I saw that video made by Vince, but I wouldn't recommend it. And when testing, mount heatsinks, connect the fan, power buttons and the PSU, that's all. If you want to go extreme, you could use bigger heatsinks on the naked mobo. But that's always risky.

I really appreciate the help and advice. However, while this was great advice and was working well...I think I boned it. The one time my hand slipped and it probably f'd it up beyond repair. It was the last NEC rail still on the board after the others came up so well with your advice. The one time my hand slipped (and not that forcefully at all) it knocked off some of the smallest components I've ever seen. I'll add a picture.

They're on the bottom of the board, CELL side. Near the rail are 4 TINY caps (or resistors maybe) and 3 were knocked off by my iron. A slight tap took them off, too. I'm so bummed.

What are the odds of a human being able to replace those?! I'm not even sure what parts those are but could it even be done by a person? Maybe with solder paste and a heat gun?

 

[demetris]

You have deeper problems to worry about.
Look at the bottom of the picture you posted.
You have a capacitor loose and a deep cut on the lines of the mobo , i think two are not connecting anything maybe more.

Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

 

[Chumdiddy1]

You have deeper problems to worry about.
Look at the bottom of the picture you posted.
You have a capacitor loose and a deep cut on the lines of the mobo , i think two are not connecting anything maybe more.

Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. I should have sent a better pic but the loose cap is one of the 3 I knocked off from the circles section (haha). I'm 100% sure of that. The "cut" is just a hard shine from the light I have close by on a small bit of flux. Good eyes though!

I just don't know how those tiny parts I knocked off could be replaced. Maybe with paste and a hot air gun (I have neither at the moment) but then again I'm asking because I'm not sure.

 

[RealWelder]

I'm wondering if this could fix my problem. I have a CECH G01 that has the ylod, (sort of) but If I mess with it a few times it will power on and run fine. It's like when it's cold it ylod. However, there's something else weird that I haven't been able to find any info on. The green light and the WiFi and HDD lights are the only ones that work. No yellow, red, or blue. Do you think this could be the problem? Do you know what controls those other 3 LEDs?(It's not the ribbon cable.)

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

 

[Chumdiddy1]

Ok, I found the schematic for COK-001 (the board I have) and I'm pretty sure the 3 tiny parts I knocked off are resistors, specifically 470k resistors. They are referenced as
R1001, R1002, R1003 and R1004.

Now, what exact kind, make and model of resistor I have no idea. Here they are referenced in the schematic (pictures added).

Now, based on the schematic I think they're just basic 470k resistors but verification would be great. My bigger issue is whether those tiny things can be soldered back on by a person. Short of having high-end tools I'm not sure. I think the only hope would be to get some solder paste, a heat gun, some kapton tape and try it. Maybe holding them down with the tape would keep them from blowing away?!

 

[esc0rtd3w]

Ok, I found the schematic for COK-001 (the board I have) and I'm pretty sure the 3 tiny parts I knocked off are resistors, specifically 470k resistors. They are referenced as
R1001, R1002, R1003 and R1004.

Now, what exact kind, make and model of resistor I have no idea. Here they are referenced in the schematic (pictures added).

Now, based on the schematic I think they're just basic 470k resistors but verification would be great. My bigger issue is whether those tiny things can be soldered back on by a person. Short of having high-end tools I'm not sure. I think the only hope would be to get some solder paste, a heat gun, some kapton tape and try it. Maybe holding them down with the tape would keep them from blowing away?!

those are standard smt resistors, not sure package size off-hand. Technically a larger package size would work if you fit it in there, but can check a chart and measure with micrometer. They are easy to remove and resolder if you take a few steps. If you have 2 soldering irons (with 1 iron, you can "gently split the resistor with a blade and then remove both sides with iron, but must be very careful with this method) its easier to remove old ones, but since you knocked them off, just remove old solder from resistor pads with flux and braid, then apply a small amount of solder to one pad on side of each. Take some tweezers, if available and line up resistor to pad and heat pad and set resistor into place. Solder the other side and then if needed, reheat first side.

here is an example of a desktop i replaced a corroded small capacitor on

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qnFdwkWF7sDWB9bb9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yZyVPtBdHnLCQDUp7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BwCxQAqSaVboo72r7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hXWaXYT9SBtjYo3W7

 

[joe musashi]

I have already told you your model PS3 already has Tantalum caps, it was manufactured this way by S@ny, and your issues have nothing to do with YLOD/Bad NEC's, but hey if you wanna rip them off your MB just to replace them for no reason, waste money and potentially kill your PS3 because it does not need doing then go right ahead..

Also none of what you quoted was directed at you, but advice for others.

i have never ever said that

 

[Chumdiddy1]

those are standard smt resistors, not sure package size off-hand. Technically a larger package size would work if you fit it in there, but can check a chart and measure with micrometer. They are easy to remove and resolder if you take a few steps. If you have 2 soldering irons (with 1 iron, you can "gently split the resistor with a blade and then remove both sides with iron, but must be very careful with this method) its easier to remove old ones, but since you knocked them off, just remove old solder from resistor pads with flux and braid, then apply a small amount of solder to one pad on side of each. Take some tweezers, if available and line up resistor to pad and heat pad and set resistor into place. Solder the other side and then if needed, reheat first side.

here is an example of a desktop i replaced a corroded small capacitor on

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qnFdwkWF7sDWB9bb9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yZyVPtBdHnLCQDUp7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BwCxQAqSaVboo72r7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hXWaXYT9SBtjYo3W7

You rule, man. Thanks for the detailed reply! I've been into a REAL DEEP DIVE on identifying those exact parts and...yikes. I'm losing my mind (haha). It looks like you had no issue micro-soldering there so I'll definitely give it a try. What size was that part you did there? I gotta get my hand to be a bit more steady with a job like that (and mine coming haha).

I'm glad to get confirmation on the type of resistor as they come in a trillion types (as you clearly know). I gather that they're 1mm in length so I was going to try to brute them back on before buying others but they're so small that I'm not sure they wouldn't just stick to the iron.
I guess we'll find out because the force that knocked them off truly wasn't much so I was able to recover them. They look like flea turds. It's obscene how small they are. The amount of force that knocked those off was about a 2 on a 1-10 scale. I was so slow and surgical through the entire process and the one time I think "it's ok to add a bit more umph, don't baby it so much"...bam. I boned it. The strength was barely more than if I just loosely dragged it across so I'm assuming the heat did the work. Anyway...
But you think any resistor around 470k would be ok to use there there as long as it fit? The schematic shows they're used for 470k and ground so I was going to assume any around 470k would be fine if nobody replied directly. Any SMD resistor that fit and was at 470k ohms was what I was gonna go with if buying new. I just didn't know if the ones Sony used played any other role, such as temp limiting or anything.

Again, I appreciate all the help from you and everyone here, it doesn't go unappreciated. This is a real great group going in this thread. I'll probably try to get those back on this weekend so I'll report back any result, good or bad. Thanks again.

 

[dydel]

Hi
Thanks to the guide, I was able to resurrect CECHG04, the console was broken for 5 years.
Currently, after replacing 3 NEC TOKIN (2 for RSX and 1 for CELL, motherboard side according to the guide), the console is booting, the shop is running, updating, it even started the game from the disc.
However, I noticed that for some reason it still has freeze (on the PS Store it hangs after about 20 seconds).

In addition, it just installs TLOU for further testing, if freezes start happening, I'll just replace the last NEC TOKIN next to Cell.

In general, I was skeptical, but I'm glad that I made the equipment operational at a low cost.

 

[Chumdiddy1]

I'm wondering if this could fix my problem. I have a CECH G01 that has the ylod, (sort of) but If I mess with it a few times it will power on and run fine. It's like when it's cold it ylod. However, there's something else weird that I haven't been able to find any info on. The green light and the WiFi and HDD lights are the only ones that work. No yellow, red, or blue. Do you think this could be the problem? Do you know what controls those other 3 LEDs?(It's not the ribbon cable.)

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

If not the ribbon cable I'm having a hard time imagining what that could be caused by. Have you ever had other issues with the touch panel?

I'll look back at the schematic to see what components run that part of the console this weekend. Maybe it'll narrow down a part you can look at to check for any issues. I just don't know off hand what would cause that to not work (if not the cable or a bad LED).

As for working when warmer and not so much when colder outside, that is usually a pretty sure sign of bad capacitors and should make your console an ideal unit for this replacement. I mean, like all of us you'd have to decide how important it is to you. If already working, maybe hold off if the console is very important to you.

I and may others simply had a console that no longer worked. Mine sat in a closet for a decade before I came across this threat so I had nothing to lose and everything to gain. Had it still been working I'd have probably held off until it broke down.

 

[RealWelder]

If not the ribbon cable I'm having a hard time imagining what that could be caused by. Have you ever had other issues with the touch panel?

I'll look back at the schematic to see what components run that part of the console this weekend. Maybe it'll narrow down a part you can look at to check for any issues. I just don't know off hand what would cause that to not work (if not the cable or a bad LED).

As for working when warmer and not so much when colder outside, that is usually a pretty sure sign of bad capacitors and should make your console an ideal unit for this replacement. I mean, like all of us you'd have to decide how important it is to you. If already working, maybe hold off if the console is very important to you.

I and may others simply had a console that no longer worked. Mine sat in a closet for a decade before I came across this threat so I had nothing to lose and everything to gain. Had it still been working I'd have probably held off until it broke down.

I bought it like this for $20. I'd like to fix it, but if it goes wrong I could sell it for parts and not be out anything. I'm definitely gonna try the fix, I had attempted a reflow before with no results. The LED thing is what's really odd to me. I appreciate the reply. Touch panel works fine.

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

 

[dydel]

Hi
I need your help.
As I wrote in the first post. PS3 CECHG came to life thanks to the guide from this site.

Currently
a) turns on
b) PSN, Online works

But I have 3 problems
a) during removal by force (soldering iron) NEC Tokin I accidentally removed 3 small resistors (I attach a photo in the post).
Number 3 connected with tin and works. As I tried 1 and 2 I had instant YLOD. It works without bridging but:
b) I have a problem with the PS Store - it freezes after 20 seconds
c) I don't know if thanks to the removal of the second NEC TOKIN on Cellu, the sound in TLOU came back to me, but the image jumps strangely - I still bet that I gave too little paste on RSX and RAM bones and they get very warm.

https://imgur.com/a/IQ9trLG

Can anyone be able to identify what resistors and what values I accidentally removed from the board? Because the console works but for some reason unstable ... in the PS Store

Regards

 

[Chumdiddy1]

Hi
I need your help.
As I wrote in the first post. PS3 CECHG came to life thanks to the guide from this site.

Currently
a) turns on
b) PSN, Online works

But I have 3 problems
a) during removal by force (soldering iron) NEC Tokin I accidentally removed 3 small resistors (I attach a photo in the post).
Number 3 connected with tin and works. As I tried 1 and 2 I had instant YLOD. It works without bridging but:
b) I have a problem with the PS Store - it freezes after 20 seconds
c) I don't know if thanks to the removal of the second NEC TOKIN on Cellu, the sound in TLOU came back to me, but the image jumps strangely - I still bet that I gave too little paste on RSX and RAM bones and they get very warm.

https://imgur.com/a/IQ9trLG

Can anyone be able to identify what resistors and what values I accidentally removed from the board? Because the console works but for some reason unstable ... in the PS Store

Regards

I'm not at home right now but you can find the board schematic online and, while a bit complicated, it will give you a general idea of what those are.
I'd look myself but I'm not at home. Search your board type (mine is COK-001, for instance) and then "schematic" on google. You'll find a huge pdf and it'll be there. In the pdf, find the pic of the board top and bottom (look on the side that correlates to your issue) and ID the parts. Finally, search the pdf for everywhere that ID is mentioned. It should get you to a section where it shows what it is and provides to the PS3.

 

[Squiglemouse]

Well it's happened. The cechA I picked up now has entered ylod(context it arrived working and has worked for several weeks now, but there was what looked to be old flux residue on the board). Guess I'll be seeing about diving into attempting replacing the nec tokin in the next few weeks. Its ylod initially goes green for around 2-3 seconds before flashing to yellow then red.

I think it's a good candidate for trying to the nec tokin replacement but I would like to get thoughts from folks who have successfully done this repair.

 

[dydel]

I'm not at home right now but you can find the board schematic online and, while a bit complicated, it will give you a general idea of what those are.
I'd look myself but I'm not at home. Search your board type (mine is COK-001, for instance) and then "schematic" on google. You'll find a huge pdf and it'll be there. In the pdf, find the pic of the board top and bottom (look on the side that correlates to your issue) and ID the parts. Finally, search the pdf for everywhere that ID is mentioned. It should get you to a section where it shows what it is and provides to the PS3.

I found this PDF for my motherboard. Thanks for your help

 

[Cruosh]

Well I am finished. No YLOD now is 8 seconds or 10 red light and vents all that time at 100%.

But i did damage that I can't repair.

Yes and only when I remove second on rsx i passed YLOD.