PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[Chumdiddy1]

I found this PDF for my motherboard. Thanks for your help

No problem. If you can't find the ID in the PDF let me know and I'll check when I get back home. Good luck.

PS: Foxit PDF viewer is great for it's search function. I know others can do that but Foxit works well if you need a good pdf viewer. Once I found my parts (bottom side of board, near CELL) I was able to quickly find each mention of them with their ID and the first result told me they weres resistors and their value (using the resistor sign and 470k next to each).

 

[Chumdiddy1]

Well I am finished. No YLOD now is 8 seconds or 10 red light and vents all that time at 100%.

But i did damage that I can't repair.

Yes and only when I remove second on rsx i passed YLOD.

You should be able to repair that. I knocked off a few of the resistors on the bottom-line of The CELL and they're smaller than those you knowed off. It's not easy but there is an example above of a someone microsoldering those sized parts back on. That alone shouldn't kill it or be the end.

Again, it's not easy but it's possible. Gotta try.
I'm going to try today and I have NO IDEA how I'm gonna do it, haha. No idea. The 3 resistors I knocked off are possibly the smallest SMD parts on the board. It's crazy. In an anti-static bag they just look like tiny specs of dust lol

Edit: Actually, I think yours are the same size as the ones I damaged. Not much bigger if not but I think it's the same.
I'm gonna try with my iron but if not I'm gonna buy a few new parts and maybe even use solder paste with a heat gun. An iron may be too big for parts that small...but it CAN be fixed! I know that much. It may be hard but you didn't ruin it if you only knocked them off. Truly irreparable damage is hard to do.

 

[dydel]

No problem. If you can't find the ID in the PDF let me know and I'll check when I get back home. Good luck.

That's how I found everything after ID, in my case I need several 0.1uF 10V capacitors (I ordered 1uF because I didn't see smaller capacity where I order), one 240 + -0.5% resistor and one 22uF 6.3V capacitor.

I am only surprised that the console needs them for full efficiency since every point I damaged connects to the ground (Points: C1449, R2061, C1112, C1412).

 

[Cruosh]

well i try to put em back. but. they are to small
I think these are capacitors not resistors,cos on your sheme says C1619 not Rxxx.
and now problem is how to know where is + and where is - on those ants. on board is easy.
but those caps are half size of those resistors. even now i lost one.
shame. i was so close.

 

[ElGris]

@128x.k If the NEC trick didn't work then it's like I said, you're at the beginning of the maze. Fuse are all over the mobo, and they're many, you can find them very easy by looking the golden letters on the mobo: https://psdevwiki.com/ps3/Protection

Also you can check the schematics for the mobo you have. Did you remove the RSX IHS also? Did you check those capacitors on it?

@Cruosh Try filling the RSX of tantalums when you have them. It seems those capacitors aren't that important. I believe you need a delid now. Your PS3 is trying to boot, but is crashing against the CELL temperature.

@yarrowman1 You'll have to fill the RSX of tantalums if you wanna run TLOU or any other lighter game. 4 tantalums per NEC.

@RealWelder There's an IC on that little pcb where the leds are. Maybe is damaged or something is shorting that zone.

@dydel Did you use tantalums for your fix? Check for temperatures, but I think your problem has to do with the NECs that are remaining on your RSX. If you don't have graphic glitches, then RSX should be good.

@Squiglemouse That CECHA of yours is delidded, if I am correct, right? Just buy the recommended tools, buy the panasonic tantalums everybody is buying and use a lot of flux. Just be careful when removing them and you won't have any problems. Protect the dies with some cardboard to prevent any damage. Also, work with the mobo over something rigid and keep it flat, at the same level in every corner.

 

[ElGris]

@Chumdiddy1 If you're facing problems when soldering those resistors, you can use some of these: https://projectpoint.in/image/data/CFR-W5-470K.jpg

Remember to isolate the zone good.

well i try to put em back. but. they are to small
I think these are capacitors not resistors,cos on your sheme says C1619 not Rxxx.
and now problem is how to know where is + and where is - on those ants. on board is easy.
but those caps are half size of those resistors. even now i lost one.
shame. i was so close.

Ceramic capacitors like those have no polarity. But make sure you are soldering them good by using some good lens.

 

[Cruosh]

@Chumdiddy1 If you're facing problems when soldering those resistors, you can use some of these: https://projectpoint.in/image/data/CFR-W5-470K.jpg

Remember to isolate the zone good.


Ceramic capacitors like those have no polarity. But make sure you are soldering them good by using some good lens.

Yes , I read that to.
I lost one. But they are to small for me.
Will wait for big caps and will try to figure out how to fix these small ones.
@ElGris
Thanks for any hope. Maybe at end will do something about that. First caps.

Thanks.

 

[dydel]

@dydel Did you use tantalums for your fix? Check for temperatures, but I think your problem has to do with the NECs that are remaining on your RSX. If you don't have graphic glitches, then RSX should be good.

Yes, I use tantalums. And I was so stupid yesterday - I did not have sound in TLOU and I blamed it ... with the NEC capacitor from CELL not removed (at the very beginning I desoldered only 3 out of 4). As I soldered in (16 in total, 4 instead of NEC) everything ... the console did not want to start, it got short circuit somewhere. Finally, now I have 3 tantalum capacitors for NEC.

The console works, it boots, but it does not quite stable (I had several glitchy in TLOU, but I do not know if it is not the fault of too little paste after delide RSX, I ran out and maybe one of the RAM overheats), I do not know if those 4 accidentally torn out elements that I wrote about earlier were not important.

Currently, I ordered these broken capacitors and resistor, I ordered a HotAir station. I keep fighting since Monday.

 

[ElGris]

@Cruosh before putting another big cap, try to fix the PS3 and see if it boots without that cap you lost. Maybe it is not that important, those are in parallel.

@dydel I now saw your pic. NEVER make a jumper if you are not sure what it is gonna do. If you didn't already, remove those jumpers and please, like everyone doing this job, USE FLUX AND LENS

https://www.amazon.in/Ram-Pro-Magnifier-Alligator-Magnifying-Inspecting/dp/B078SY5DPZ

If you can't put those resistors where they belong in the correct way, do what I said earlier, buy a 1/2 watt resistor of the same value and solder it, after that isolate the contacts.You can see what value it is by searching on the schematics people posted in a few comments back.
Soldering this kind of smd's are a pain in the ass if you can't see what you are doing. So make sure everything is in place, and use a multimeter too. It's easy to put in short some components if you add too much tin, or complicated to see if it is really soldered in place.

 

[Chumdiddy1]

@Chumdiddy1 If you're facing problems when soldering those resistors, you can use some of these: https://projectpoint.in/image/data/CFR-W5-470K.jpg

Remember to isolate the zone good.


Ceramic capacitors like those have no polarity. But make sure you are soldering them good by using some good lens.

Ya know, I debated using those as opposed to SMD for simplicity. I have to imagine that legged resistors would be easier than a 1mm SMD component (especially using an iron). I'll probably try that first! Thanks for the tip!

 

[Chumdiddy1]

That's how I found everything after ID, in my case I need several 0.1uF 10V capacitors (I ordered 1uF because I didn't see smaller capacity where I order), one 240 + -0.5% resistor and one 22uF 6.3V capacitor.

I am only surprised that the console needs them for full efficiency since every point I damaged connects to the ground (Points: C1449, R2061, C1112, C1412).

Awesome! Yeah, I thought the same thing, too. All of the resistors go to ground and work at such a low rating that it's hard for me to imagine that it matters but it does. I can't imagine being the people that work all of this out for a living. I'm not completely illiterate when it comes to electronics and it might as well be rocket science or brain surgery to me when it gets as complicated as a PS3 Motherboard.


"Yeah, we need...667 0.00001 ohm resistors and 4,345 .00001uf caps for this to work. I did the math."

Ok? Let's build it (haha)

 

[Squiglemouse]

[USER=53815]@Squiglemouse That CECHA of yours is delidded, if I am correct, right? Just buy the recommended tools, buy the panasonic tantalums everybody is buying and use a lot of flux. Just be careful when removing them and you won't have any problems. Protect the dies with some cardboard to prevent any damage. Also, work with the mobo over something rigid and keep it flat, at the same level in every corner.[/USER]

@ElGris
Thanks for the advice. It's pretty difficult getting the Necs off and unfortunately I think I hit a tiny component off at C2138(Hindsight is making me kick myself for not putting a butt ton of cardboard all over the back of the board to help prevent this). So at this point I'm thinking about stopping attempting to fix this(It's got my stress going off the walls). Really I have to hand it to Sony for making this a nightmare to try and work on.

 

[joe musashi]

i have cechg01 i remember that i do heat the nec and it works but for short while and then it has ylod and the cell reach 80+ does that mean my board need replace nec to tantalum or reballing

 

[ElGris]

Don't worry, that doesn't look so bad. A ceramic capacitor on parallel sometimes it is not that important, try to put it back later. You need to put the mobo steady when doing this, I use a piece of "expanded polyestyrene" as support. You can get a good piece from some electronics box around your house. https://www.junkrun.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/waste-polystyrene.jpg
I use a solder machine with heatgun to remove those NECs, and it's pretty difficult for me, even applying heat while using the soldering iron. So if you can't do it in that way, try the nasty way and remove them with something sharp. I saw people doing it in that way on youtube

i have cechg01 i remember that i do heat the nec and it works but for short while and then it has ylod and the cell reach 80+ does that mean my board need replace nec to tantalum or reballing

You need to first do a delid, then the NEC trick. Better do the hardest thing first, but be careful, if you damage the die/traces, it's the end of that motherboard.

 

[Squiglemouse]

Don't worry, that doesn't look so bad. A ceramic capacitor on parallel sometimes it is not that important, try to put it back later. You need to put the mobo steady when doing this, I use a piece of "expanded polyestyrene" as support. You can get a good piece from some electronics box around your house. https://www.junkrun.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/waste-polystyrene.jpg
I use a solder machine with heatgun to remove those NECs, and it's pretty difficult for me, even applying heat while using the soldering iron. So if you can't do it in that way, try the nasty way and remove them with something sharp. I saw people doing it in that way on youtube

@ElGris Hm well since I have the tantalum coming anyways I guess I might as well give it a try. It's just terrifying how quickly those spots soak up the heat from my direct tip iron.

Biggest issue I've hit at this point is the loss of a cap at c2138 and a resistor at r2130 (same mini line in parallel leading towards rsx if I understand the schematic correct). If anyone can point me to suitable specced replacement for the resistor that would be great because the service manual just lists xx. Or heck if you think the unit can work without those two then what's there to lose in trying.

Blast Sony for using Necs.

 

[ElGris]

@ElGris Hm well since I have the tantalum coming anyways I guess I might as well give it a try. It's just terrifying how quickly those spots soak up the heat from my direct tip iron.

Biggest issue I've hit at this point is the loss of a cap at c2138 and a resistor at r2130 (same mini line in parallel leading towards rsx if I understand the schematic correct). If anyone can point me to suitable specced replacement for the resistor that would be great because the service manual just lists xx. Or heck if you think the unit can work without those two then what's there to lose in trying.

Blast Sony for using Necs.

That C2138 is a 0.1uf=100nf cap, that has an easy replacement for one of those with long legs. The R2130 doesn't exist on either COK001 or COK002 (the one I have at hand right now). That space is empty, so you're good to go. Better cover everything with electrical tape before trying again. If you try something sharp, don't apply too much force, you can "lift" one of the rails of the NECs, and that would be dangerous.

 

[Squiglemouse]

That C2138 is a 0.1uf=100nf cap, that has an easy replacement for one of those with long legs. The R2130 doesn't exist on either COK001 or COK002 (the one I have at hand right now). That space is empty, so you're good to go. Better cover everything with electrical tape before trying again. If you try something sharp, don't apply too much force, you can "lift" one of the rails of the NECs, and that would be dangerous.

Oh well damn that's good then. Means I only lost one thing haha. You sir are a gent and I appreciate your help. I think I'm going to order a hot air station since that will make repairs easier for any soldering. Don't suppose you have any recommendations? (I'm eyeing an 858d clone)

 

[joe musashi]

is there someone knows how to change nec to tantalum to send my motherboard to him

 

[Chumdiddy1]

is there someone knows how to change nec to tantalum to send my motherboard to him

You very likely do not need a rebelling. This entire thread is basically a giant debunking of that being the main reason for the YLOD. Now, it does happen but it's been proven to *not* be the main fault causing it.
If you're heating up the NEC caps and the console works again for a bit, you very likely only need to replace those. It's likely that your chips and the solder balls beneath them are fine.


As for someone to do it for you, I'm not sure. I'd have to assume that any reputable electronics repairman/woman could do it given that it's not that hard of a job. I'm a novice at all of this and even I don't find it to be all that overwhelming. Now it's not easy for a beginner like myself but I knew pretty quickly that an experienced person could do it rather easily.

I say all that to say that you might want to consider trying it yourself if at all possible. If that's not an option, I'd have to assume most repairmen could and would do it if you explained the job.
Why? Well, as explained in the OP, the PS3 isn't the first device to need a replacement of those NEC Tokin capacitors. Toshiba laptops were renowned for this fault and the idea to do this to fix YLOD came from the laptop issue. So, it's a repair an experienced and/or busy repair service may have already done many times.

I'm not sure where you live but maybe call around and see what different businesses say. Yet, of you have tools it's a job you can do with some patience and a steady hand.

 

[ElGris]

Oh well damn that's good then. Means I only lost one thing haha. You sir are a gent and I appreciate your help. I think I'm going to order a hot air station since that will make repairs easier for any soldering. Don't suppose you have any recommendations? (I'm eyeing an 858d clone)

Yeap, having one of those means you can do a lot of fixes with almost any electronic at your hand. You can even start in the repairing business, as I'm with cellphones. There're a lot of guys on youtube that buy many consoles, cellphones, etc, and fix them sometimes doing even "nothing".

You can perfectly start with that 858d. By doing these kind of repairs you need something more powerful like a Quick 861DW, pro stuff. But I'm doing just fine with a Yaxun 886d+. Also, buy lens with support like the one I posted before, those are really useful.

When removing those NECs, add new tin to the rails of the NECs, lotta flux, and use the heat gun and the soldering iron at the same time, and go slowly. 400ºC on heat gun is enough, but with this cheap chinese stuff you never know, sadly.

P/S: Actually this was pretty clean.