PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[mugininja]

@squeept seems like the proadlizer capacitor is mix of conventional way of tantalum + ceramic capacitor with low esr....seems like is the same purpose?

 

[wrx884]

hmm interesting. maybe it is that then. either way i will try and fix my solder job again whenever i feel the time is needed, atm it takes 5+ tries to even boot the system into a game. it will play GTA 5/COD Ghosts for as long as i want it to its weird and it wont give any issues in game. but if i close the game sometimes it will freeze and i have to try and boot it again. tbh it seems like i have a lose connection on a tantalum. since after "fixing" my solder job yesterday using flux and time etc it will actually play for hours and thats the first time it will do so since before i did all the NEC replacements. as much as this seems like a BGA/GPU failure i dont believe so. maybe im wrong but im optimistic about this becoming 100% working again, i would say its 90% back to normal

do a pressure test on the GPU and u will rule out if its BGA or ur work thats the issue. the movement is pretty much telling u the answer. Until u do this u are only guessing what the issue may be and so are we since we dont know the quality of ur work and how u handle the board etc....

 

[squeept]

So in your experience how often is the case internal die transistor failure vs substrate failure/warping vs actual cracking in the solder points/balls between the substrate and the main board?

Being quite liberal with rounding for the sake of simplicity (and guesswork since I don't have equipment to truly verify dead GPU): YLOD is 1/3 GPU BGA defect, 1/3 dead GPU, 1/3 everything else

@squeept seems like the proadlizer capacitor is mix of conventional way of tantalum + ceramic capacitor with low esr....seems like is the same purpose?

Huh, well, I don't have to know anything to copy their design, so I'll take a look over some schematics and scrap boards and see if I can come up with anything that helps this weekend.

 

[Beanerman]

So...
A friend of mine tried to fix my console but it still doesn't boot up. Any advice here?
Here is the Startup video:
https://i.imgur.com/WwpB6ds.mp4

I have to agree, pretty bad solder job my friend

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Gus21]

Hello everyone, I got a Ps3 CECHH01 the symptom is as follows, it turns on with the green light around 30 seconds, no image appears on the TV, so the red light is flashing.
Before I start tinkering with the device by placing tantalus, I would like to have opinions from people experienced in the subject about this problem.
Thanks.

 

[raidriar]

Who wants to play with my YLOD B01 and E01? Both behave this way. All I did was take them apart, clean the dust, delid, and apply new thermal paste. YLOD was before the delid, no I didn't mess it up.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_WzG8O4V20E3UeCHpR1tC2_Absf5uap0

 

[Dariush Aghaee]

Guys I bought a CECH-2004B slim PS3 with blinking red problem that will turn on after 20 times trying.today I replaced necs on the back side of the mobo. There were only 2 of them sony used tantalum caps for cpu and just rsx has those necs in this particular model anyway it turned on after cap replacement but the cpu went too hot about 80 degrees celsius so I decided to delid cpu. It was ok and I didn't scratch it too bad just visible copper on some traces but I got blinking red again like before caps replaced (it turns on, fan runs, one yellow light and it turns off blinking red light ).
What do you guys think? Did I mess up with cpu delid or that 80 celsius made problems?
Do you advice me to replace the caps on RSX side too?

 

[Dariush Aghaee]

I have removed the other caps from the other side and bridged positive but still same problem. Green for less than a second fan runs, one yellow and blinking red

 

[vinhtq115]

Is it okay to use aluminium capacitors like these instead of tantalum ones? It is hard to buy tantalum 470uF 6.3V capacitors in my country and these aluminium ones are quite cheap.

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

Guys I bought a CECH-2004B slim PS3 with blinking red problem that will turn on after 20 times trying.today I replaced necs on the back side of the mobo. There were only 2 of them sony used tantalum caps for cpu and just rsx has those necs in this particular model anyway it turned on after cap replacement but the cpu went too hot about 80 degrees celsius so I decided to delid cpu. It was ok and I didn't scratch it too bad just visible copper on some traces but I got blinking red again like before caps replaced (it turns on, fan runs, one yellow light and it turns off blinking red light ).
What do you guys think? Did I mess up with cpu delid or that 80 celsius made problems?
Do you advice me to replace the caps on RSX side too?

There lies the problem, it was working fine, until the CELL heated to 80°Cs,which means the TIM between the die and the IHS has been worn out, you delided the CELL, you barely scratched it, but that "barely" is more than enough to ruin the CELL completely, so we can deduce that the CELL is dead, and has nothing to do with the Caps in question.

Try to get a hold of some legitimate NEC/TOKINs, resolder then and check the results, but i doubt its going to make any difference since the CELL mask has been scratched, original NECs will always work, tantalums you'll need proper quality ones, or else you won't see any difference, a lot of cheap Chinese ones are just pure garbage.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

[squeept]

Is it okay to use aluminium capacitors like these instead of tantalum ones? It is hard to buy tantalum 470uF 6.3V capacitors in my country and these aluminium ones are quite cheap.

Those are electrolytics, they won't work.

Guys I bought a CECH-2004B slim PS3 with blinking red problem that will turn on after 20 times trying.today I replaced necs on the back side of the mobo. There were only 2 of them sony used tantalum caps for cpu and just rsx has those necs in this particular model anyway it turned on after cap replacement but the cpu went too hot about 80 degrees celsius so I decided to delid cpu. It was ok and I didn't scratch it too bad just visible copper on some traces but I got blinking red again like before caps replaced (it turns on, fan runs, one yellow light and it turns off blinking red light ).
What do you guys think? Did I mess up with cpu delid or that 80 celsius made problems?
Do you advice me to replace the caps on RSX side too?

Since I'm here trying to keep people from trashing things... If you (or anyone) are in the USA and you scratched your shit up while delidding, I'll fix it for $30 (shipping included) if it's fixable (not too deep). Price will scale up if you ripped more than a few traces. No warranty, no refunds - you're already working on it because it's dead so I'm not taking the blame for other problems.

 

[SiegHart93]

Is it okay to use aluminium capacitors like these instead of tantalum ones? It is hard to buy tantalum 470uF 6.3V capacitors in my country and these aluminium ones are quite cheap.

If u have dead laptop mobos u could get some tantalums with a heat gun dude

 

[raidriar]

Those are electrolytics, they won't work.



Since I'm here trying to keep people from trashing things... If you (or anyone) are in the USA and you scratched your shit up while delidding, I'll fix it for $30 (shipping included) if it's fixable (not too deep). Price will scale up if you ripped more than a few traces. No warranty, no refunds - you're already working on it because it's dead so I'm not taking the blame for other problems.

What if we didn't scratch anything up and just have no idea what's up?

 

[Dariush Aghaee]

There lies the problem, it was working fine, until the CELL heated to 80°Cs,which means the TIM between the die and the IHS has been worn out, you delided the CELL, you barely scratched it, but that "barely" is more than enough to ruin the CELL completely, so we can deduce that the CELL is dead, and has nothing to do with the Caps in question.

Try to get a hold of some legitimate NEC/TOKINs, resolder then and check the results, but i doubt its going to make any difference since the CELL mask has been scratched, original NECs will always work, tantalums you'll need proper quality ones, or else you won't see any difference, a lot of cheap Chinese ones are just pure garbage.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

Yeah I think CELL is dead and I've already gave up with that console and left her Rest In Peace. Sadly.

Any way, I have a question. The soldering of new caps is a little difficult and takes several hours for me to do so and tantalum caps are expensive here in my region. Is it possible to plan a test? to make sure installing new caps will make it. I mean after removing NECs and before installing tantalum caps. In several posts ago @ElGris shared a video which the guy has used some electrolyte caps to perform the test. I searched for his prior videos but didn't find any thing

Those are electrolytics, they won't work.



Since I'm here trying to keep people from trashing things... If you (or anyone) are in the USA and you scratched your shit up while delidding, I'll fix it for $30 (shipping included) if it's fixable (not too deep). Price will scale up if you ripped more than a few traces. No warranty, no refunds - you're already working on it because it's dead so I'm not taking the blame for other problems.

Unfortunately I'm talking to you from the other side of the earth.

 

[ElGris]

@Dariush Aghaee Don't follow that electrolytic method, I didn't share that video for that purpose. Probably that PS3 was half dead, half alive, because sometimes you can get a console booting just by removing half NECs. Now, what I recommend you is to share some good pics of your delidded cell, the best ones you can get, to see if you fu&%ed good or no. From my experience (always talking from here btw) when you cut some traces, you only get a GLOD, if you damaged the DIE in either CELL or RSX, you get a YLOD. Keep in mind that damaging the DIE could be sometimes in microscopical ways..

Squeept mentioned that you can get a YLOD after a disassembly, and that's totally true. If you are on that group, you'll only need a rework. Sh&% happens, what are you gonna do, huh?

Hello everyone, I got a Ps3 CECHH01 the symptom is as follows, it turns on with the green light around 30 seconds, no image appears on the TV, so the red light is flashing.
Before I start tinkering with the device by placing tantalus, I would like to have opinions from people experienced in the subject about this problem.
Thanks.

That's a NEC problem right there. Before going further, perform a video reset using the power button and see if you can get image via A/V or HDMI. If you don't, it doesn't matter, probably you'll need to change at least have NECs to see that console booting again.

 

[cauPRO]

Hi, I took a sealed seal with a guarantee seal, but this one with ylod. I opened it and started to change the nek tokin, however I noticed that apparently there is a short, because when I test the continuity in the pole + and - the beeper joins the multimeter ... it's not normal right?

 

[SeanRanklin]

Man, excellent guide mate. I wish this existed when I was game enough to try this on my unit (Still turns off on TTT2 and no other game)

I know I'm going to have to delid my CPU at least soon, as lately it always hovers on 66 as i have my webman set to kick in at 67. When i was going through my TTT2 problem it would rarely reach 65 at all.

 

[SiegHart93]

Hi, I took a sealed seal with a guarantee seal, but this one with ylod. I opened it and started to change the nek tokin, however I noticed that apparently there is a short, because when I test the continuity in the pole + and - the beeper joins the multimeter ... it's not normal right?

happened to me on all the ps3 i did the procedure ! i think its normal that short, btw all my ps3 are working fine since the replacement 4 months ago.

 

[cauPRO]

[QUOTE = "SiegHart93, post: 231855, membro: 41403"] aconteceu comigo em todos os ps3 que fiz o procedimento! Eu acho que é normal que curto, btw todos os meus ps3 estão funcionando bem desde a substituição há 4 meses. [/ QUOTE]
Thanks

 

[ElGris]

Hi, I took a sealed seal with a guarantee seal, but this one with ylod. I opened it and started to change the nek tokin, however I noticed that apparently there is a short, because when I test the continuity in the pole + and - the beeper joins the multimeter ... it's not normal right?

What a clean job. Good luck with your fix.