Yugonibblit
PSX-Place Supporter
Yeah and?I have removed all the tant caps i put
Yeah and?I have removed all the tant caps i put
Made no diffirenceYeah and?
Well, sorry bud but I think it's toasted, only thing to do is find every bad component and replace them by tracing the short. Then hope you get lucky!Made no diffirence
Can a power supply be use to inject power to find the shortWell, sorry bud but I think it's toasted, only thing to do is find every bad component and replace them by tracing the short. Then hope you get lucky!
u were probs best keeping to the other thread since ur chasing issues not related to this thread as such now but i guess some muppets thinks its better? lol. we need pics of ur work. even show us where u are probing for these shorts?? there are many small caps across the board that appear shorted but they are not, (people have even mentioned it in this thread) so we need more info from u other wise we are all just guessing and hoping to find a fault thats possibly related to ur issue but could be leading u in the wrong direction.
What info do you need
The short is a across the 12v
Just adding another success story!
I own a CECH-A01 since launch and it started failing in 2012 where it would shutdown in the middle of a game. I had it reballed at ps3repairshop.com (no longer in business), but the same thing happened again in 2014 so I bought a super slim and put my fat in my garage.
Fast forward to few months ago, I started reading about how the fat can be made into the ultimate retro gaming machine with CFW. I took out the old PS3 can tried using it. Yup, still YLODed less than 10 minutes into TLOU. I then came across this thread and got curious. I bought a lot of two clean but YLOD CECH-A01s on eBay, both still with the warranty sticker (so no funny business), with the intention of practicing the repair before doing it on my own console. The last time I soldered something was adding a DMS3 modchip to my PS2 in 2003.
I was too successful and was able to revive both eBay consoles. I was able to play the entire TLOU prologue on both of them with no issues at all. It's only been a day, but they seem to still be working without issues. If I'm able to fix my original console, then I'll have 3 fully functional CECH-A01s, enough to last me a lifetime of retro gaming.
For reference, here's my fix:
Replaced all the NECs with 32 capacitors. The capacitors are KEMET T520B337M2R5ATE009 from Mouser (Newark has them at a discount now). They're not cheap, but they're the closest specs to the NECs that I could find, and they were B case, so I could fit on the board without having to put them at an angle. They're 330uF/2.5V/9mOhms.
Bridged with 2 wires only using 14 gauge wire (important!)
I had some learning moments with the first PS3! I tried to replace only a few capacitors, but it didn't work until replaced all of them. Also, the first time I bridged it, I used 22 gauge wire, despite the advice in previous posts. It booted up for 10 seconds and then turned off and subsequently had instant YLOD. I opened it up to see that the wire burnt up (see picture). I replaced it with 14 AWG which works now.
Anyhow, thanks for all the information!
guuys i got my new necs from ebay today, is replacing kinda the same like with the tantalums? i dont understand how minus is contacting to the board only plus
Please can someone upload a video as I dont know if My YLOD has gone to RLODHi
Can someone please upload a video of what a YLOD Is and what RLOD IS, but without plastic casing just the board connected by the ribbon cable,
Please
Many Thanks again