PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[Naked_Snake1995]

Did you delid it too?

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No, as the unit wasn´t mine, i didnt felt the necessity to proceed to a delid,even if i did it would be only the RSX, temps are stable enough, below 62ºCs on both, although the CELL is higher by 4/5ºCs from the RSX

 

[dydel]

No, as the unit wasn´t mine, i didnt felt the necessity to proceed to a delid,even if i did it would be only the RSX, temps are stable enough, below 62ºCs on both, although the CELL is higher by 4/5ºCs from the RSX

Hello.
I am the owner of the CECHG04 model. After replacing the capacitors and delide RSX and CELL, the temperatures I achieve at 32% fan speed are 76 degrees Celsius on CELL and 72-73 on RSX (when I played TLOU). Should I worry about something? I have given enough paste. I used Arctic MX-4

 

[SeanRanklin]

@Naked Snake

Mate, if i send you my unit, will you replace these Tokins for me?

 

[demetris]

Hello.
I am the owner of the CECHG04 model. After replacing the capacitors and delide RSX and CELL, the temperatures I achieve at 32% fan speed are 76 degrees Celsius on CELL and 72-73 on RSX (when I played TLOU). Should I worry about something? I have given enough paste. I used Arctic MX-4

I have my CECHE01 on factory state under IHS and mx4 over and temperature doesn't go more than 68 Celsius on Cell and 63 on RSX so yes something is definitely wrong with your system.
Also i was planning deliding both but now am not so sure.

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

@Naked Snake

Mate, if i send you my unit, will you replace these Tokins for me?

Out of the question lad, truly sorry, as i mentioned before and i shall mention it again, i don't touch consoles other than my own, same with each electronic device i own, id rather deny the idea of doing repairs for others, as it leaves a bad taste in my mouth and on my consciousness, if something goes wrong, with that unit i had nothing to lose, although i accept a YLOD COK-001
board for donation or a Easter Bunny present "not e-begging" [emoji23]

Perhaps MyMateVince can work on your unit and do a video, about it, if you ask him and you both reach to an agreement, maybe you heard of his videos? [emoji848]

Stay safe [emoji106]

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[SeanRanklin]

Out of the question lad, truly sorry, as i mentioned before and i shall mention it again, i don't touch consoles other than my own, same with each electronic device i own, id rather deny the idea of doing repairs for others, as it leaves a bad taste in my mouth and on my consciousness, if something goes wrong, with that unit i had nothing to lose, although i accept a YLOD COK-001
board for donation or a Easter Bunny present "not e-begging"

Perhaps MyMateVince can work on your unit and do a video, about it, if you ask him and you both reach to an agreement, maybe you heard of his videos?

Stay safe

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Ah, well it was worth a shot!

I'd attempt this myself but I have no idea how to use a soldering iron let alone have access to heat guns for getting these chips off anyway.

My unit is gonna need these replaced soon though. I've gone from problems only with Tekken Tag 2 now Tekken 5 DR has also crashed twice in game. I'm certain these Tokins are under performing.

I have a multi-meter with me, would I be able to try and narrow down which tokin is underperforming and most likely causing problems, or does it not work in that way?

At least if i can narrow down which bloody capacitor is faulty, i can potentially try and give it a go, but the thought of fixing all 4 scares me away.

 

[Workz_777]

Hiya All, hope everything at your end is super well. Just wanted to say a huge 'thank-you', been reading through all this amazing info, page by page, it's been epic!! Looking forward to trying soon and reading more from you guys. I salute all you brave soldiers that came before and who paved the road for the rest of us to follow.

 

[Dariush Aghaee]

As posted yesterday,ill leave the work done here, the solder job above wasnt the final one,it was merely temporary for testing, if the console would work fine, afterwards i redid the traces and soldered them properly and cleanly

Happy repairs and stay safe

View attachment 25293
View attachment 25292

So finally you replaced each TOKIns with 3X470uf 6.8v?

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

So finally you replaced each TOKIns with 3X470uf 6.8v?

6.8V? Never saw thoes, perhaps 6.3V? No, it was 2.5V, you missed the post afterwards, 3x470uF at 2.5V, and this is another console, not my personal one, my personal one still has 4x470uF at 6.3V installed since March of last year

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[Dariush Aghaee]

6.8V? Never saw thoes, perhaps 6.3V? No, it was 2.5V, you missed the post afterwards, 3x470uF at 2.5V, and this is another console, not my personal one, my personal one still has 4x470uF at 6.3V installed since March of last year

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Yeah 6.3V. Sorry for the mistake.

I thought you installed 3X330uf 2.5V first,

3x330uF at 2.5V

Then installed 3X470 6.3V finally.

Any way. my main question is, has the YLOD solution been updated or we need 4X470uf 6.3V for each 128 TOKIn?

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

Yeah 6.3V. Sorry for the mistake.

I thought you installed 3X330uf 2.5V first,



Then installed 3X470 6.3V finally.

Any way. my main question is, has the YLOD solution been updated or we need 4X470uf 6.3V for each 128 TOKIn?

You can install it at 2.5V or 6.3V, either way it works, you can also install a row of 3x470 or 4x470, 2x470 could bring system stability problems, same with 330uF, use 3 or 4 per NEC/TOKIN, or you can mix both 330 and 470,for example 1x470+2x330, you get the gist

Back in March before i made the thread in July, i installed 4x470uF at 6.3V on my main unit, before it was temporarily installed 4x330uF,but i didn't have any more spares so i ended up getting at 470uF at 6.3V.

This one that i just replaced a couple of days ago, ive reduced the uF count to 470uF at 2.5V and installed 3 instead of 4 like on the main one.

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[Hidayath Ansari]

Hi guys.

I screwed up big time while removing the NEC/tokin capacitors on the top side of my ps3 fat. I accidentally removed what i suspect is an SMD capacitor. Worst part is I misplaced it too . Its located towards the left side of the GPU nec/tokin capacitors and it the red encircled solder point on the attached image.

 

[hoyohoo]

Hey guys, i am yet again here, because my PS3 is not working. I removed all tantalums, cleaned everything with IPA (very hard to get these days) and resoldered them.
But nothing, I get instant YLOD.
How likely is it that with philips branded high quality tantalums that this problem will propably dissapear? I would have to order them from china, which is not very easy for me, as I am very in fear of the virus... But it should be dead / inactive after 8 hours, so this should be fine.

 

[Epixjava]

Hello all, After reading through this entire 88 page thread this morning I feel comfortable attempting this myself.... fingers crossed. I have a Dead CECHA01 motherboard I am going to practice on. I dont see any reason why this shouldn't work, but I am attaching a pic of what I plan to do. Yellow is the NEC and the red is the bridge. My other CECHA01 is my baby ( upgraded hdd, cfw, fan and psu, all that.) Temps were at 62 C for the RSX and about 60 for the CELL. this is after 30 min of ps2 gameplay. Idles at 40-42C with fan at 30 percent. Went to run a ps3 game and without warning it just powered off....I waited a few seconds to power it on and I got green light then a yellow flash then red light flashes. It works if I leave it alone in the closet of shame for a few days. I truly believe this capacitor fix to be the solution for this. I have 32 470UF 6.3v 2917 Tantalum capacitors arriving soon. I will posting here to document my process and help with any research I can. (I will probably do a de lid as well, I never wanna open this system again) No reason any of this shouldn't work?

Also @Naked_Snake1995 This is an amazing thread and has taught me so much about PS3 hardware. I have been trying to get a solid BC compatible ps3 for YEARS and this is the only thing I have not tried, cant believe I am hearing about this now.
And to everyone else that contributed info over the last year you guys rock great research and troubleshooting.

 

[demetris]

If your motherboard was yloded and previous owner tried to fix it with questionable ways there is actually nothing you can do from home.

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[SeanRanklin]

Hello @Naked Snake 1995

I have ordered some brand new replacement Tokins from international destination, they should be arriving within a week or two.

Do you reccomend i just change the 2x RSX ones? I have ordered a pack of 5 so im wondering if there are any other important ones that i can just have changed since it will be open.

Not sure if you can remember me, but i was the one who had the YLOD only with Tekken tag 2, but now it has started with Tekken DR as well but not as often, therefore the problem is getting worse so i must take action

 

[nCadeRegal]

@SeanRanklin , why don't you reach out to @squeept to see if you can work out some sort of deal for him to do the repair for you? It would help further our research because he has all of the tools to properly document and diagnose the repair? I'm sure he would love the chance to prove its a bga issue and not a tokin issue....lol
See if he is interested and hope you can come to an agreement.

 

[Workz_777]

Hi guys.

I screwed up big time while removing the NEC/tokin capacitors on the top side of my ps3 fat. I accidentally removed what i suspect is an SMD capacitor. Worst part is I misplaced it too . Its located towards the left side of the GPU nec/tokin capacitors and it the red encircled solder point on the attached image.

 

[Workz_777]

Hiya, @Hidayath Ansari ...here are some PS3 service manuals, they have all the values for all the resistors, caps, ICs, etc, and their place on the board. Here is what i could find, i hope it helps for your board:-

• CECHA00/A01 Service Manual (3rd ed) for COK-001 board
https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_playstation3_service_manual.pdf

• CECHC02/C03/C04/C08/CECHE01/E05/E11 Service Manual (5th ed) for COK-002 board
https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_cok-002_5th.pdf

• CECHG Service Manual (2nd ed) for SEM-001 board
https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_sem-001_3rd.pdf

 

[PS3FatRIP]

Hello All!

First time posting here - please be gentle.

After reading god knows how many pages of this, we have at least two schools of thoughts.

1) A large portion of the YLODs experienced by PHAT PS3s are caused by NEC/TOKIN Capacitors dying over time, just as they did in Toshiba laptops back in the day. This may or may not be exacerbated by the incredible heat cycles that the PS3 goes through. Reballing the GPU and CPU isn't necessary in the majority of cases.

2) The idea of replacing NEC/TOKIN Capacitors with Tantalum Capacitors is stupid because the properties of the Tantalum Capacitors are completely different to that of the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors.

The primary proponent of the 2nd idea is a poster called @squeept who definitely does have a vested interest in that he sells reballed PS3s. However, that doesnt make him wrong, and it doesn't make him right.

He has said that the vast majority of NEC/TOKIN Capacitors he has found are absolutely fine. He has also said that whilst the capacitance of the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors does change with heat, they do so only temporarily and so the idea that reballing is fixing these machines because it heats up the secaps is folly. Again, this may or may not be true, but I wonder if there could be a different issue with the caps. They way they are on the board makes it unlikely that it could be a contact issue, but are these caps not in layers? @squeept has been testing them by pulling them off the board... which would presumably push these layers together allowing them to work again.

What I am interested in right now, is whether we can come up with a guide on how to diagnose what the actual issue is.

One of the things he said early on is, to try to put a lot of weight on the GPU/CPU and see if it turns on. That seems like a sensible step 1 - the caps aren't affected. If so, it implies a problem with the RSX/CPU not the caps?

Could that be a good first step, and if so, what would be the second step (before yanking caps off the board)