PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

aminiani said:
Hi..i need the JTP-001 datasheet pdf but i cant find it..can you please give me this?
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The only one we have access to AFAIK is for the COK-001. SONY's minions hoard them and snicker while our consoles die.

EDIT:
found a post by @Workz_777 on page 88 with links to the service manuals for COK-001 (A/B Models), COK-002 (C Models), and SEM-001 (G Models):
Workz_777 said:
Hiya, @Hidayath Ansari ...here are some PS3 service manuals, they have all the values for all the resistors, caps, ICs, etc, and their place on the board. Here is what i could find, i hope it helps for your board:-

• CECHA00/A01 Service Manual (3rd ed) for COK-001 board
https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_playstation3_service_manual.pdf

• CECHC02/C03/C04/C08/CECHE01/E05/E11 Service Manual (5th ed) for COK-002 board
https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_cok-002_5th.pdf

• CECHG Service Manual (2nd ed) for SEM-001 board
https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_sem-001_3rd.pdf
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RIP-Felix said:
When you say you redid the NEC, do you mean you replaced them with new/old stock? And that worked? Sorry if you posed this already, I am working my way back through this thread page-by-page, but I'm only up to February. Besides, it sounds like you didn't mention this console. Just to confirm, this console is still working today? Model? I'm keeping track of this in a spreadsheet as I read the thread, but ALOT of people are leaving out these critical details.
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Yeah no worries, i dont think i ever talked about the system here, its a CECHA01 and i used cheap ebay yellow tanatalums 470uf 2.5v, now at the time i used a heatgun to remove the NECs, pretty dumb looking back on it. the board flexed alot. but it was then sitting in storage ever since may, i recently used it and it runs fine still. so the bottom side 2 cell 2 rsx are tanatlums now
 
Hi there, my CECHA01 died a long time ago (YLOD after 1.5s), I found this amazing guide and decided to give it a shot and replace all of the caps but after I've removed every NEC Tokin I realized that the Vin was shorted to ground on both CELL and RSX. Where can I start to look? I only tested it while unplugged, I remember reading something about PS3s using a different kind of mosfet but I'm not sure that's the case here. The console itself is in pretty good shape, I had it for quite some time, it had CFW and temps never got past 65°C. PS3 UART Script shows dead HDMI IC. Thanks in advance

Edit: Typo
 
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That's nice.
Now for a moment let's forget the strong possibility of a false positive (RSX connection restored with heat)

So we assume that we are talking about a BC system that developed the famous tokin fault. We are very interested in hearing more details. Like the exact symptoms it had, maybe the mileage this system has, or other coincidental things such as if the system was in fact reballed or not.

(I'd begin checking the mileage with webman and maybe retrieving the eid root key now that the system is working. Sound like it didn't get much use after the fix)

From this case, a fair amount of interesting information can come out. Especially if it's indeed a tokin fault.

Cheers
 
patricksouza472 said:
Hi there, my CECHA01 died a long time ago (YLOD after 1.5s), I found this amazing guide and decided to give it a shot and replace all of the caps but after I've removed every NEC Tokin I realized that the Vin was shorted to ground on both CELL and RSX. Where can I start to look? I only tested it while unplugged, I remember reading something about PS3s using a different kind of mosfet but I'm not sure that's the case here. The console itself is in pretty good shape, I had it for quite some time, it had CFW and temps never got past 65°C. PS3 UART Script shows dead HDMI IC. Thanks in advance

Edit: Typo
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It should read like 1-3 ohms after you have them all off. Totally normal. It will be enough to beep for continuity, but it's not actually shorted. What was the actual error code you got?
 
I don't think I was reballing every CECHA01 no matter what pre-2017, and I don't want to look through a mountain of paper invoices to find it. I only keep 5 years of paper, anyway.

You'll know if I reballed it either by looking for the whole copper edge around the board to be discolored (and the usual globs of flux around the USB ports will be missing) from the ultrasonic cleaner, or looking reaaaaaaaally close at the GPU for a thin outline of flux residue just barely bigger than the chip if I didn't put that one through the cleaner. It won't be splattered everywhere like a goddamn Pollock.
 
squeept said:
It should read like 1-3 ohms after you have them all off. Totally normal. It will be enough to beep for continuity, but it's not actually shorted. What was the actual error code you got?
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Hey man, the error code is A0202120. I bought the HDMI IC (SIL9132CBU according to the service manual) yesterday but will have it in my hands only around April. Hope I can fix it before my birthday lol
 
@squeept had that 2120 error back in late December (according to his spreadsheet). He said, "Shorts present near encoder chip and a bad choke. No attempt made....heatgun." So it wasn't worth his time. Maybe you'll have better luck with a board that wasn't a heat gun special!
 
RIP-Felix said:
@squeept had that 2120 error back in late December (according to his spreadsheet). He said, "Shorts present near encoder chip and a bad choke. No attempt made....heatgun." So it wasn't worth his time. Maybe you'll have better luck with a board that wasn't a heat gun special!
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Sorry but what is this choke? Is it that coil near the IC? If that's it, I could possibly get a spare one from another dead board, and I'll replace the encoder itself with a new one.. Mine was never touched (except for NEC removal), it was sealed when I bought it, it's the "pride" of my small collection and all-time favorite PS3 model, so I refuse to let it just die. Here in Brazil, a working CECHA01 costs about 399 dollars. I paid like 10 bucks for mine and it was working perfectly, so I don't mind spending some extra cash in repair parts
 
@squeept would you post the images of the "slight noise" you're seeing on the tokins of the A model you started this week (CE132683126)? I would like to see what their Vpp is. I'm not sure what your stability testing entails, but would you please test that one using the litmus test games mentioned in this thread, GT6 and/or TLOU? What GT6 track was again? Would be good to know so I can thoroughly test my consoles. I do not have not TLOU (got the PS4 remaster to save my PS3's the torture). I prefer GT anyway.
 
patricksouza472 said:
Sorry but what is this choke? Is it that coil near the IC? If that's it, I could possibly get a spare one from another dead board, and I'll replace the encoder itself with a new one.. Mine was never touched (except for NEC removal), it was sealed when I bought it, it's the "pride" of my small collection and all-time favorite PS3 model, so I refuse to let it just die. Here in Brazil, a working CECHA01 costs about 399 dollars. I paid like 10 bucks for mine and it was working perfectly, so I don't mind spending some extra cash in repair parts
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Yeah, it's just a coil of wire wound around a ferite bead to "choke" induced currents. Protects local ICs from coupled noise (suppress high frequency magnetic fields that induce a current).

Dang $400! Here they routinely go for around $300 in the normal listings. If the import taxes aren't too steep I have found working A01'a in the US for half that. Hard to find, but possible if you look for a few weeks and use "tricks?" [should I give up my secrets...oh what the hey!] Try searching for CBEH-1000. Some people mistakenly think this is the Model number and you can find A01's in listings among other less desirable models. Just check the listing pics closely. That's how I bought my latest sealed A01 for $160 working. Even if the import taxes were $100, it'd still be a deal. I found another A01 a few months ago listed as "doesn't read disks" this way. It was $90 and only needed a new laser! The seal was broken, but the security screw thwarted them. Inside was pristine. I had a spare BR so I just swapped the daughterboard. That was a lucky find, but it can happen. So that's 2 working A01's now for less than $300. They are my backups, so I have spare BC's to last me through the years!
 
@patricksouza472 there are 4 little rectangular 4 pin dudes coming out of the HDMI encoder towards the HDMI port. They choke a total of 8 lines. They should be shorted across from the left to right on the board, then check that they are NOT shorted to the other line on the same choke.
 
@RIP-Felix https://imgur.com/a/Y2XuDLP

Geez, you're just assuming I'd fix it? Well... I did, so I'll grab a GT6 image off the first track in a minute.

I do about 20 hours total with at least 10 full heat cycles and one overnighter. About an hour hands on games, then the rest is rubberband on the thumbstick spinning in circles outside in whatever FPS I have laying around.

These look a little nicer than I remember. Keep in mind that I'm just doing a quick prod with a hacked together ground pin held in place taped to the end of a stick, going directly across the terminals on the TOKIN at the chip side. I could probably go back and get like 100mv difference in noise by holding it on there differently. I don't even keep a reference image sitting out anymore, I just take a glance and say "eh, might be a little noisy." So these aren't really "science worthy" notes or images. I'm just checking that they're not toast and that I didn't hurt them in rework.

edit: sorry, was just assuming someone was waiting to spring the "then you fixed it by heating the caps" shit on me even though every check said bad connection and I had to scrape an oxidized pad. All I mean is I just take a quick poke and scribble a note, I'm not even saving the images anymore, so there's room for a little subjective interpretation of the image and maybe they were identical.
 
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squeept said:
@RIP-Felix Geez, you're just assuming I'd fix it? Well... I did, so I'll grab a GT6 image off the first track in a minute.
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I was guessing that a single error 3034 was the best case BGA defect for a reball. So yeah, I shouldn't jinx it, but I had a feeling it would pull through.

Thanks for the useless pics...lol! Yeah, they look perfectly fine. Exactly within spec. from what we've seen before on working tokins and even a well designed tantalum array. I was hoping we'd see some increase in the bad waveform, since you said there was increased noise. Had it caused any instability in GT6, it might have helped define the needed Vpp for instability that can cause intermittent/Random YLODs. I wish there were a variable Capacitor we could just dial back until the system becomes unstable.
 
RIP-Felix said:
Yeah, it's just a coil of wire wound around a ferite bead to "choke" induced currents. Protects local ICs from coupled noise (suppress high frequency magnetic fields that induce a current).

Dang $400! Here they routinely go for around $300 in the normal listings. If the import taxes aren't too steep I have found working A01'a in the US for half that. Hard to find, but possible if you look for a few weeks and use "tricks?" [should I give up my secrets...oh what the hey!] Try searching for CBEH-1000. Some people mistakenly think this is the Model number and you can find A01's in listings among other less desirable models. Just check the listing pics closely. That's how I bought my latest sealed A01 for $160 working. Even if the import taxes were $100, it'd still be a deal. I found another A01 a few months ago listed as "doesn't read disks" this way. It was $90 and only needed a new laser! The seal was broken, but the security screw thwarted them. Inside was pristine. I had a spare BR so I just swapped the daughterboard. That was a lucky find, but it can happen. So that's 2 working A01's now for less than $300. They are my backups, so I have spare BC's to last me through the years!
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Oh, got it.. Will check them out asap and get it from scrap boards if needed. Thanks for the tips, but right now my wife would kill me if I bought another console (already freaked out when she found out I bought the HDMI encoder lol), as we don't have space to keep them. I'll have to fix this one no matter what, I hope I can count on you and @squeept along the way. Thanks a lot dudes!
 
Hey Everyone, i replaced all NECs with 470uf 2.5v from Slim systems, on a CECHA00. this system would YLOD crash when having high fanspeeds exiting apps, i decided to bite the bullet and remove all NECs with 20 tantalums, 10 for each chipset, i found the method from this user on reddit THE REDDIT LINK and this seemingly fixed it. the photos on this users post is what i did to my CECHA00, and so far i havent had issues. im going to stress this system soon here and make a follow up post.
 
Be sure to allow the console about 2 hours to fully cool between stress tests of at least 1 hour in GT6 or TLOU. Get it through at least 5 of these heat cycles to allow the motherboard to "de-flex" and settle, from the heat of the replacment and new mounting pressures. It took my console (PS3#2) 2 weeks and about 3 full thermal cycles before it gave the YLOD again. In other words, don't post sucess if you get it to play for a few hours in a hard to render game. The heat cycles are necessary to call it. Then only time will tell.
 
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