PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[RoamPT]

Would these work?
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/T495D477K006ATE125/399-3886-1-ND/819211?itemSeq=364073731

Or is the ohm's too high for the use?

Maybe these? https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/avx-corporation/TPSE477K006R0060/3068718

Much appreciated, my old ps3 fat I'm sure just needs the capacitors because if I do the hairdryer trick it will work again for a few hours/days. Never had any artifacts while playing neither it overheats(cfw with a temp monitor). It's a ceche01 so no way I want to get rid of it.

 

[Pacorretaco]

I did change for 2 set, but one set belong to my friend (so didn't bothered to mention it then). But both set was switch to "new" Tokin about 2+ month apart but seems like both set had the same result within months. I bought lots of "new" tokin upon first success and guess those Tokin will be sitting in the cupboard for sometime...

Well indeed you'll have fun the day you do the syscon thing.

Installing Nec tokin QFN proadlizers back involves pretty much taking the whole main area of the board to lead free melt temperatures. Which may or may not be a problem in itself, but certainly doesn't help isolate problems.

If you try something like this and the thing revives, you'll never be sure "why" it actually worked. Or how long it will last for the same reason. It's a good way to get confused sadly. These types of failures are very fiddly, and adding heat is like spinning a group of roulettes at once.

 

[RIP-Felix]

Would these work?
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/T495D477K006ATE125/399-3886-1-ND/819211?itemSeq=364073731

Or is the ohm's too high for the use?

Maybe these? https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/avx-corporation/TPSE477K006R0060/3068718

Much appreciated, my old ps3 fat I'm sure just needs the capacitors because if I do the hairdryer trick it will work again for a few hours/days. Never had any artifacts while playing neither it overheats(cfw with a temp monitor). It's a ceche01 so no way I want to get rid of it.

Neither of those will work. The ESR is too high and the caps are too tall for the RF shield to be replaced.

If your console boots after the "hair drier" trick, then this confirms you have a solder ball defect. The idea that heat restores capacitance is a myth for this type of capacitor. Only a reflow/reball will fix your PS3. 90% of YLOD are due to this kind of failure. Only a very small percentage are NEC/TOKIN related (ATM).

How long is the YLOD (from PWR on to beeps)? Did it occur suddenly, like out of nowhere, or did you have YLOD's in the past that steadily got more frequent.

 

[RoamPT]

Neither of those will work. The ESR is too high and the caps are too tall for the RF shield to be replaced.

If your console boots after the "hair drier" trick, then this confirms you have a solder ball defect. The idea that heat restores capacitance is a myth for this type of capacitor. Only a reflow/reball will fix your PS3. 90% of YLOD are due to this kind of failure. Only a very small percentage are NEC/TOKIN related (ATM).

How long is the YLOD (from PWR on to beeps)? Did it occur suddenly, like out of nowhere, or did you have YLOD's in the past that steadily got more frequent.

That was very informative! Yes it did have it in the past like 9 years ago and I sent it to someone to reflow it. But after my experience dealing with this kind of stuff I doubt the guy even did the reflow, I believe he just changed the thermal paste since it was a quick repair since I waited in the car as he did it. I turn it on and it takes maybe 2-3 from pwr on to 3 beeps to quick yellow and blinking red. I can confirm that better once I get home, this is just on the top of my head. I have my ps3 taken apart and was preparing it so I could do a reflow before attempting the condensors. But I'm glad you told me those won't work.

 

[Pacorretaco]

Would these work?
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/T495D477K006ATE125/399-3886-1-ND/819211?itemSeq=364073731

Or is the ohm's too high for the use?

Maybe these? https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/avx-corporation/TPSE477K006R0060/3068718

Much appreciated, my old ps3 fat I'm sure just needs the capacitors because if I do the hairdryer trick it will work again for a few hours/days. Never had any artifacts while playing neither it overheats(cfw with a temp monitor). It's a ceche01 so no way I want to get rid of it.

The legendary hairdryer trick is way older than this tokin myth.
Sure it works, but if anything, this points away from the capacitors. Typical funny behavior of problematic RSX.

If your console boots after the "hair drier" trick, then this confirms you have a solder ball defect.

Sadly that is not enough evidence to know it's just a ball. It can be, but the balls are just one of the things that can go wrong with the complex RSX. Reballing will indeed help you because you would be narrowing the problem down, and sometimes it will be enough.
But sometimes reballing is not enough. It's just a step.

Either way, if tou still don't want to accept the reality, what you can and should do is diagnose the YLOD. Ask the SYSCON, it knows what the problem is, and it will hopefully tell you a helpful error code.

Doing a dodgy tokin replacement when they are good will just stack new problems on top of the old ones. Fortunately there's no need for that.

 

[RIP-Felix]

Sadly that is not enough evidence to know it's just a ball. It can be, but the balls are just one of the things that can go wrong with the complex RSX.

I don't think I could name another possible failure that would respond to thermomechanical reconection, besides a BGA defect. The greatest flex will be between the motherboard and substrate (the BGA). Between the die and substrate has a much smaller surface area and isn't going to flex as much. I wouldn't expect to see a false positive in the case of a bump failure or memory failure. Not from the heat generated by a hair drier. Maybe a reflow, but not the heat trick.

 

[Pacorretaco]

smaller surface area and isn't going to flex as much. I wouldn't expect to see a false positive in the case of a bump failure or memory failure. Not from the heat generated by a hair drier. Maybe a reflow, but not the heat trick.

...And this is where the real bad guy of the movie appears and makes his laughing scene... And he is ugly

Of course I can only speculate because it's almost impossible to isolate these problems. But relatively small temperature deltas can very well alter the behavior of the funny chips. I'm talking under 100c. Totally in the range of hairdryer tricks, fake tokin fixes, "overheating"... TOWEL tricks...
Why exactly? I don't know. As you say the area is small. But it's still complex.

Maybe the funny underfill slightly expands/contracts enough to reconnect a precarious contact (also acknowledged as problematic design/material) that was almost there. Removing gpu heatsink, overheating the gpu, next boot it works. Or the opposite. (Console seems to boot fine, but after a certain temperature, problems start manifesting rather predictably... (No hair dryers, all within operating temperature ranges)

Machines sitting unused for years even new in a box, opened and they have problems too. Maybe funny underfill absorbs moisture over time, deforming.

Reballed systems with new lead balls that work initially but fail again shortly after. Where heating them up a bit again also makes difference. Or even pressing down on them.


Now make no mistake, I am not against reballing; almost always there is the alternative explanation.
Mechanical reconnection of balls due to warping of the board...
Progressive oxidation and deterioration of broken balls, oxidized pads that still are barely good but become a problem over time... I have even seen these with my own eyes. Needing to scratch with knife to make the pad shiny again.

Fine working machines that get dropped or physically abused, start artfacting after the fall.
Why artifacting? Why didn't the balls under the CPU break from the fall instead always under the RSX? -Because the balls under the RSX are normally always precarious too, waiting for the smallest chance to break!

And why? I have only lousy explanations such as the wider thermal operation range of the RSX multiplying the thermal cycles, the clamp that only has 2 diagonal screws or the constitution of the board...
But it just happens. Reballing can be the solution many times.

Not always enough though. (ask botakompong)

I wish I could know the real ratio between them. I guess nobody can. But I am sure none of them is zero nor 100.

 

[RIP-Felix]

...And this is where the real bad guy of the movie appears and makes his laughing scene... And he is ugly

Of course I can only speculate because it's almost impossible to isolate these problems. But relatively small temperature deltas can very well alter the behavior of the funny chips. I'm talking under 100c. Totally in the range of hairdryer tricks, fake tokin fixes, "overheating"... TOWEL tricks...
Why exactly? I don't know. As you say the area is small. But it's still complex.

Maybe the funny underfill slightly expands/contracts enough to reconnect a precarious contact (also acknowledged as problematic design/material) that was almost there. Removing gpu heatsink, overheating the gpu, next boot it works. Or the opposite. (Console seems to boot fine, but after a certain temperature, problems start manifesting rather predictably... (No hair dryers, all within operating temperature ranges)

Machines sitting unused for years even new in a box, opened and they have problems too. Maybe funny underfill absorbs moisture over time, deforming.

Reballed systems with new lead balls that work initially but fail again shortly after. Where heating them up a bit again also makes difference. Or even pressing down on them.


Now make no mistake, I am not against reballing; almost always there is the alternative explanation. Mechanical reconnection of balls due to warping of the board... Progressive oxidation and deterioration of broken balls, oxidized pads that still are barely good but become a problem over time... I have even seen these with my own eyes. Needing to scratch with knife to make the pad shiny again.

Fine working machines that get dropped or physically abused, start artfacting after the fall.
Why artifacting? Why didn't the balls under the CPU break from the fall instead always under the RSX? -Because the balls under the RSX are normally always precarious too, waiting for the smallest chance to break!

And why? I have only lousy explanations such as the wider thermal operation range of the RSX multiplying the thermal cycles, the clamp that only has 2 diagonal screws or the constitution of the board...
But it just happens. Reballing can be the solution many times.

Not always enough though. (ask botakompong)

I wish I could know the real ratio between them. I guess nobody can. But I am sure none of them is zero nor 100.

I'm comfortable saying it's diagnostic. More likely than not the balls are the culprit in hair drier trick cases. Even if it's not 100%, it may as well be. But yes, you're technically correct.

Botkompong noted memory failures cause a GLOD, not YLOD. So that really limits YLODs to BGA or die bumps. I don't think the underfill is as precarious as you make it sound. The entire purpose of underfill is to provide mechanical support to the BGA, making it last longer. It also limits oxidation by preventing air from coming into contact with the solder. Of all the joints on a PS3 those with underfill are the least likely to have an issue. True the silicon has a different coefficient of thermal expansion than the substrate, which will cause bump failure with thermal cycling. However, the underfill and small surface area should mitigate thermomechanical reconnection due to heat strain from a hair drier. I just don't see it having enough surface area to retain the necessary flex to affect the bumps. Maybe, but I think it's FAR more likely to be the unprotected solder balls between the MB and substrate. SONY did a poor job of quality assurance with that connection. I forget where it was, but a while back someone on this thread noted after a console fell the RSX sheared off. After inspecting it he posted pictures of oxidized pads consistent with having never achieved full wetting during the initial factory installation! The RSX wasn't soldered on properly to begin with! That might be explained by the RoHS directive, which took effect in 2006, the year the PS3 was released. So lead-free solder in BGAs was a relatively new process that factories were still learning how to get right. The billion dollar recall of the X-box 360 also is revealing. The entire industry was scared there was a systemic flaw in the tecnology. SONY narrowly avoided a recall. Other products suffered too. I'm guessing they figured out the temperature curves, underfill chemistries, manufacturing processes, and quality assurance controls needed to avoid recalls shortly after this wake up call.

 

[RoamPT]

I have no issues repairing it, I was hoping I could get away without re-balling as I have trust issues and I don't fully trust other people repairing my stuff. I'm pretty good at soldering, I have done micro soldering in my Gamecube, my Dreamcast etc. No issues in soldering. I'm not good with all the technical specs of condensors for example. Re-balling is unfortunately out of my reach. But I will reflux and see how long it works. I have my fan set to 40% so it doesn't let it get too hot. If that fails I will send it out for re-balling along with another CECHE01 that I have that might have a good RSX if mine is somehow "exhausted", buy never gave me any glitches or even freezes while playing.

 

[RIP-Felix]

Re-balling is unfortunately out of my reach. But I will reflux and see how long it works. I have my fan set to 40% so it doesn't let it get too hot. If that fails I will send it out for re-balling along with another CECHE01 that I have that might have a good RSX if mine is somehow "exhausted", buy never gave me any glitches or even freezes while playing.

Keep us apprised of how it goes. Be sure to clean the BGA really well before reflowing, to get the cleanest results. It'll help it last longer. Reballing has a large learning curve, but trying/failing is how you gain skills. So I don't want to discourage anyone from learning if they want to. Especially if you enjoy this kind of thing. It is empowering to know you can fix it right, if it happens. Having said that, I've killed 3 consoles and haven't got it right yet..lol! So yeah, steep learning curve.

Reballing/Reflowing Cheap DIY Hardware list ($350):

Spoiler: What I use

• $104 = IR Preheater (Be sure cord is rated for 15A - it says on the plug. If not, buy another one that is. This is a safety hazard. The cord that came with mine was 10A and was getting hot to the touch after just a few minutes! It would surely have burned my house down had I not replaced it. The 15A cords works perfect for hours of continuous operation whithout warming up in the slightest. They may have fixed this since I purchased, but be sure to check before using it. Otherwise, this is a great preheater!)
• $28 = Dual Channel Temperature Meter with K-Type Thermocouples. This works great. It's not the most accurate thing, but for the price it's perfectly fine. You need to place one probe on each side of the motherboard to monitor the topside and bottomside temperatures. This tells you when you're getting close to flowing temperatures. But you'll still have to watch the chip and nudge it to know for certain. This minimizes the time you stay above the melting point and allsow you to manually simulate a temperature profile. Not perfect, but better than nothing.
• $79 = Hot Air Rework Station. This is the one I have. I only use it for the hot air gun. It's temperature controlled soldering iron is fine, but I prefer my KSGER T12 station. The DC power supply is a bonus and nice to have, but it's not the best. This is a nice all in one that enables the electronics DIY'er for the off job here and there. I like mine.
• ~$20 = 45x45mm IC SMD Rework Nozzel. You need this to evenly distribute the hot air from the rework station. I needed to turn the airflow on the rework station to maximum to get good even pressure in the nozzel, which works well. If you use less than that the heat backs up into the wand and it thermal throttles. The same happens with a heat gun. It'll heat, then cool down, heat, cool down...indefinitely and you'll never get up to temp. You need to get the pressure right or it wont work. I should also mention I had to fit the BGA nozzel over a Hot air nozzel to get it to fit on the end of the wand. I cut the tip off one of the nozzels that came with the hot air station and clamped onto that. You may need to do a similar mod to get it on.
• $20 = Electronis contact cleaner. This is to thoroughly clean the residues and oils off the BGA. This stuff contains some toxic fumes, so do it outside and wear Nitrile Gloves. Use this with the board tilted at an angle and allow it to run underneath the BGA. Place a paper towel under the chip to soak up the dirty solvent as it runs through (you don't want it to run underneath other components and dry, leaving residues). Flip the board 90 degrees and repeat as many times as needed to be sure it's THOROUGHLY clean under the BGA. Any dirt, grime, oils, dust, or residual flux can contaminate the solder when you reflow. That will reduce the amount of time your reflow lasts.
  
• $13.25 = AMTECH BGA FLUX. Now I know the stuff you buy on ebay is probably a knock off. But it's worked well for me. It's not the stuff you want to use for reballing, but works well to reflow. Once the board is warm, use this to wick under the BGA. Add until it has wicked as much as it can. Then begin increasing the temps to being simulating a reflow profile. After reflowing the chip and cooling the motherboard. Be sure to thoroughly clean off the flux residue with contact cleaner the same as you did before.
• $50-80 = Reballing kit. I wont link to one as I don't like what I got and haven't found a good solution yet. There is a blue jig that everyone sells, but it's hard to adjust and doesn't hold the chip securely. You can file down the ridges that hold the chip so it sits more securely, but it's a PITA. There is a silver one that holds the chip diagonally, but it's too small to hold the RSX substrate corner to corner (found that out the hard way!) It might be able to hold the IHS, but it's better to remove that before reballing so you don't have to heat the chip so much. Anoying! These kits often come with stencils, a variety of leaded solder ball sizes, BGA flux, brush, spudger, suction pen, & etc.
• $5-10 = Aluminum Tape. This is to attach the temperatur probe and mask off the RSX. Regular aluminum foil will work for the rest of the top side, but the area next to the edge of the chip the tape works best. I've tried polyacrylamide tape (Kapton), but the second flux touches it, it looses it's stick. The aluminum adhesive is more resistant and the aluminum itself bends to hold it's shape, even if the adhesive looses some of it's stick. Just be sure to remove while the board is still a little warm. It's hard to remove otherwise. Also the sticky residue it leaves behind needs cleaned off.
• $25 = Swing Arm Mount. This is to hold your Hot air wand above the motherboard, so you don't have to hold it by hand. It takes some modifying, but works pretty good once that's done.

Here's an example of my setup:

The biggest problem I have run into is getting the new leaded solder balls to adhere to the RSX pads and be perfectly centered on them. This is the hardest part IMO. Removing the chip is a piece of cake. Soldering it back on isn't that difficult either. I did have trouble with the motherboard warping at first, but solved that using aluminum foil on top of the MB, 2 hours drying at 100C, and higher BTM preheat temps (150-180C) during the reflow. It's balling the RSX that's hard!

On the other hand, a reflow with this setup is super easy. It'll last longer than an IFixIt heat gun special, that's for sure...lol!

 

[RoamPT]

Keep us apprised of how it goes. Be sure to clean the BGA really well before reflowing, to get the cleanest results. It'll help it last longer. Reballing has a large learning curve, but trying/failing is how you gain skills. So I don't want to discourage anyone from learning if they want to. Especially if you enjoy this kind of thing. It is empowering to know you can fix it right, if it happens. Having said that, I've killed 3 consoles and haven't got it right yet..lol! So yeah, steep learning curve.

Thank you for the help and for that tutorial. I'm waiting for some supplies to come as Amazon is taking ages to deliver due to a wharehouse temporary closer (Canada).

I would love to learn how to reball! I will reply here with the results.

Oh I have also snatched during the weekend another working CECHE01 for $50. Changed the thermal paste and I ran it for a few hours and ran few games as well just to put some stress on it. But since it came already working I don't think it had any issues but I came with an aftermarket fan which seems to have higher CFM than a stock. I compared it to another CECHE01 that I bought less than a week ago for $30 (don't ask me how I got those deals, it was pure luck and timing I guess lol). Both have been running strong and no issues.

 

[dydel]

So:
- I opened the console
- I re-soldered the capacitors at CELL (they were a bit crooked, a year ago I was just learning how to solder)
- I did CELL and RSX reflow (hot air, IHS on chips, 230 degrees Celsius for about + - 3 minutes per chip)
The console is working again. If it dies again in the future, then I will add a Syscon cable

I ask in addition - has anyone tried to use liquid metal between the chips and the IHS? My model is CECHG04 and it gets quite hot despite delide (Netflix for 30 minutes - CPU 68 degrees and RSX 58 degrees)

And dead again!

The console has been working for a week since the last failure

Initially, in Killzone 2 I reached temperatures: CELL 79 degrees and RSX 72 degrees.
As the IHS of the chips is copper, I used liquid metal between the core and the IHS. In Killzone 2, the drop was significant (69 degrees on CELL and RSX, that's the most I achieved in the campaign)
Today I started Killzone 3, I hit 67 degrees on CELL and 64 on RSX, console fell.

Someone here recommended to check SYSCON, before deciding what to do with the console, I will check the error codes. Maybe I'll send her out for full reballing

 

[RIP-Felix]

And dead again!

The console has been working for a week since the last failure

Initially, in Killzone 2 I reached temperatures: CELL 79 degrees and RSX 72 degrees.
As the IHS of the chips is copper, I used liquid metal between the core and the IHS. In Killzone 2, the drop was significant (69 degrees on CELL and RSX, that's the most I achieved in the campaign)
Today I started Killzone 3, I hit 67 degrees on CELL and 64 on RSX, console fell.

Someone here recommended to check SYSCON, before deciding what to do with the console, I will check the error codes. Maybe I'll send her out for full reballing

What was the fan doing during that time? Your using webMAN mod with the custom fan controls trying to keep the temps at 68C, right?

If it's blowing at full tilt (100%) trying to keep a delided CPU/RSX with LM below 79C, then the electromigration that caused that must be damn near killing the chip. Does the air exhausing the console feel very warm? It should be very warm, that means there is efficient thermal transfer. If not, then I'd be concerned your TIC application wasn't effective or even that the Heat pipes are damaged. It's possible they lost their partial vacuum.

 

[RIP-Felix]

Well, if you're interested in learning to reball there is a thread here. Be sure to watch as many videos as possible and read the posts in that forum before attempting it for yourself. As added incentive check out this thread. There is a mod chip that allows you to swap a 65nm or a 40nm RSX from the slim PS3 into A-E models. That'll pretty much give you the worlds most reliable BC PS3. A little known fact is that SONY refurbished some consoles doing this. They used a custom firmware, and we're working on that, but the mod chip works right now. No one offers it as a service yet, not outside of Indonesia. If you want to vacation in Jakarta, it's $50 per console! And that includes the 40nm RSX! Kinda makes you want to visit Indonesia doesn't it!

 

[RoamPT]

Well, if you're interested in learning to reball there is a thread here. Be sure to watch as many videos as possible and read the posts in that forum before attempting it for yourself. As added incentive check out this thread. There is a mod chip that allows you to swap a 65nm or a 40nm RSX from the slim PS3 into A-E models. That'll pretty much give you the worlds most reliable BC PS3. A little known fact is that SONY refurbished some consoles doing this. They used a custom firmware, and we're working on that, but the mod chip works right now. No one offers it as a service yet, not outside of Indonesia. If you want to vacation in Jakarta, it's $50 per console! And that includes the 40nm RSX! Kinda makes you want to visit Indonesia doesn't it!

Thanks once again! Most definitely worth a read and learn more about these systems! It's been fun and I have learned a lot from these complex systems. Oh so the last PS3 I got with the fan, it's actually the 19 blade one, so it's another bonus right there. If I'm correct the Japanese model had the 19 blade one correct? No wonder I felt it pushing way more air than my other one. Tomorrow I will start the reflow process and play some Uncharted 2 so it puts the PS3 to work!

P.S: I do want to go to Indonesia now, let me just convince the wife lol

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

 

[RIP-Felix]

Yeah I started out wanting to try this fix for myself and bought 2x YLOD A models for about $40 ea. It didn't work for me and, as I did more research, I began to understand where the confusion was coming from. Somewhere along the way I ended up with 5x working A01's and 2x I killed. One 30xx I killed trying the RSX swap (I'm still learning).

I find that having a project, such as fixing consoles, is the best way to learn about electronics and engineering. It motivates me to learn the math and physics. Having a problem that forces me to watch videos and read technical documents looking for anything to helpful is easier when I have a clear application for that knowledge. And my research is targeted at only the most useful information. Instead of being bombarded in school with everything at once, with no clear application or goal to put the knowledge in context, I can take the fast track toward the goal, picking out the most useful information. I learn other stuff along the way that can be applied broadly elsewhere. I find I can remember that knowledge, since it was a fun and interesting to discover on my own. When I pick out a specific bit of information that can me figure out a mystery, it's an "a ha" moment! They're exciting and rewarding. It's just a better way to learn - Self directed education, at your own pace, doing what you enjoy. No deadlines, no exams, no pressure.

If you're not doing this for fun, stop now. Because the cost of education is greater than a new working console. I've spent around a thousand dollars over the last year in equipment I don't have room to store...lol! Seriously, it's becoming a problem! But education isn't free, whether you pay someone else to teach you or teach yourself, it'll cost you in time, money, and storage space. And if you're married...well, I guess the PC way to put it is...it'll take a supportive spouse! Just remember to reciprocate the favor when she decides to redecorate and enlist your help!

 

[dydel]

What was the fan doing during that time? Your using webMAN mod with the custom fan controls trying to keep the temps at 68C, right?

If it's blowing at full tilt (100%) trying to keep a delided CPU/RSX with LM below 79C, then the electromigration that caused that must be damn near killing the chip. Does the air exhausing the console feel very warm? It should be very warm, that means there is efficient thermal transfer. If not, then I'd be concerned your TIC application wasn't effective or even that the Heat pipes are damaged. It's possible they lost their partial vacuum.

Hi!
I had a manual fan setting of 32% speed
The air was warm, and as I say, lower temperatures than thermal paste
I will read the error codes for curiosity, the console is 14 years old and it probably won't work anymore, and I don't know if reball makes sense

My errors:

===================================
ERR 00: 00000000 A0003001 FFFFFFFF
ERR 01: 00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
ERR 02: 00000000 A0404421 FFFFFFFF
ERR 03: 00000000 A0403034 FFFFFFFF
ERR 04: 00000000 A0404421 FFFFFFFF
ERR 05: 00000000 A0403034 0B4DAAC7
ERR 06: 00000000 A0404421 0B4DAAC7
ERR 07: 00000000 A0403034 0B4DAA6D
ERR 08: 00000000 A0404421 0B4DAA6D
ERR 09: 00000000 A0403034 0B4C98AC
ERR 10: 00000000 A0404421 0B4C8357
ERR 11: 00000000 A0403034 0B4C8180
ERR 12: 00000000 A0404421 0B4C8180
ERR 13: 00000000 A0403034 0B4C8173
ERR 14: 00000000 A0404421 0B4C8173
ERR 15: 00000000 A0403034 0B4C7FF1
ERR 16: 00000000 A0404421 0B4C7FF1
ERR 17: 00000000 A0403034 0B4C79F5
ERR 18: 00000000 A0404421 0B4C79F5
ERR 19: 00000000 A0403034 0B4C79F0
===================================

 

[RIP-Felix]

Yeah, 40 3034 is the RSX problem child that warrants a reball/reflow. You can Ignore the 4421 (associated data error). They come hand in hand with 3034's. That 3001, however, could be bad power supply...

I can confirm error code 3001 is bad PSU. Faulty power supply for sure. You might show the red light on but PSU is dead if you getting 3001.

Also, I can confirm 3034 is straight RSX related.I had the ylod that returned 3034/4322. I did a reflow and the console came back indicating the errors to be RSX related. It could be the come in a set meaning when you get 3034 then you get 4322. But I'm pretty sure 3034 is RSX and needs a reflow. Any other theories on this? Has anyone had a 3034 that's not RSX related?

I have 2 hypothesis':

1. I remember a number of users notice that the chips heated up quickly when the console had bad power. This does make sense as excessive ripple can cause the chips to run inefficiently and heat up. So if the tokins are not optimal or the PSU is going bad, but neither are bad enough to cause a YLOD on their own yet, they might cause an excessively hot running chip.
   
2. On the other hand, a chip that's nearing death from accumulated electromigreation damage might be drawing more current/voltage, causing the PSU to work harder and fail, as well as explain the excessive heat.

 

[Pacorretaco]

Yeah, 40 3034 is the RSX problem child that warrants a reball/reflow. You can Ignore the 4421 (associated data error). They come hand in hand with 3034's. That 3001, however, could be bad power supply...


I have 2 hypothesis':

1. I remember a number of users notice that the chips heated up quickly when the console had bad power. This does make sense as excessive ripple can cause the chips to run inefficiently and heat up. So if the tokins are not optimal or the PSU is going bad, but neither are bad enough to cause a YLOD on their own yet, they might cause an excessively hot running chip.
   
2. On the other hand, a chip that's nearing death from accumulated electromigreation damage might be drawing more current/voltage, causing the PSU to work harder and fail, as well as explain the excessive heat.

That 3001 is almost certainly him simply trying to turn on the machine without the 12v prongs from the PSU attached. So nothing to worry about.

The error logs are incredibly useful, but not everything needs to be taken too seriously all the time. Sometimes there can be simple explanations for many errors.
Especially when there appear to be 2 different problems at once. Hard to believe always.

Just the typical RSX related YLOD unfortunately

 

[RIP-Felix]

Yeah, A reball makes more sense. @dydel, even if the RSX is shot you could swap a good 65nm or 40nm RSX using the Frankenstein MOD Chip, So long as the motherboard is good. Problem is that no one is currently offering this service outside Indonesia. You'd have to learn to DIY or fly to Jakarta where repair shops do it for $50...I'm so envious!