I just checked, and it give me 2,7ohm, which according to your knowledge, should be great. Now I am starting to be confused
Is this now deffinitive that it is not problem with my RSX?
I understand, so I just soldered again the syscon diag and here is the log:
The 3001 errors are all probably from today, I tried few times to power up the disassembled console
Why is the last 3034 code from 2006? It is because I removed cmos battery?
Do you see anything in this log, which should give me more info where to find my problem?
Should I do "bringup" command with fully assembled console? The command above was performed on fully disassembled console (just pcb and psu)
Ok, my suspicion seemed correct.
Good news, your CPU is probably OK and you just have the typical RSX bit training errors. What we normally see as 3034 AND 4xxx errors.
But your old B model only giving 3034... I think it's because it's an old syscon version/revision or something like that.
This is what I was suspecting Which is interesting. This is why I asked you about eepcsum.
And indeed your thermal config area checksum is one of the rare/undocumented ones! @sandungas
Now you should run commands such as
And probably @sandungas will ask you more stuff because you have an interesting syscon. (You could take pictures of it also) Or at least the data inside it is interesting.
About the funny RSX... Yeah that's what you have. High Ohms according to the voodoo that Felix was mentioning.... Should mean that the core is "healthy" and increase the scales towards a reball.
But I never believed that kind of voodoo.I have 1.4ohm RSX that are perfectly working. From a sealed almost unused machine. I think the "ohms=life bar" thing is little more than BS.
Now mixing this ohms voodoo with the heat test voodoo and perhaps something else... Is something I'll talk about later. Maybe some proper test methodology can come out.
Otherwise everything is pretty meaningless still.
Haha...you'll have to ask @Rozus! I was just re-posting a picture from another thread he posted earlier (I probably should have quoted it). I missed those lasers and XB PS. I think he does console repair, he's mentioned several consoles.
So, do you think GT6 is a better game to bench the system then? Any suggestion on a graphically intense course or auotmatic race we can agree on that'll run for about 30 minutes to heat saturate the console? Preferably something accessible after loading the game, that doesn't require us to play, as it's easier to set a race and let it complete then have to race it ourselves. This is why I like NBALive 2010. You can set the computer to play itself and the gametime can be adjusted so that one game takes exactly 30 minutes or 1hour to complete. But I doubt it's all that taxing.
Sorry i missed this post
TLOU is good because in my tests it was generating the higest temperatures, mostly because are not peaks but something constant, and you dont need to do anything with your character, just staying quiet and even "hands free" from the dualshock and waiting quiet for 5 minutes or so is going to push the PS3 to the limits, lol
You know, in other games we can generate high temperature peaks but are peaks that goes up and down very fast (not constant), actually ive seen lot of people saying that TLOU generates high temperatures the first time you see the crickets (as far i remember), but thats not good enought because is not an scene that last for long
Is a lot better what i said, just go to the (only) 2 points of the game with water, keep an eye at the temperature values, and get ready for the wtf
The only reason why im suggesting to dont use it is because is required to have a savegame located at a specific point of the story... and as far i remember when you load it you need to run/kill/dodge a few enemies to reach the area with water
But is not good enought to use it in benchs because is needed a savegame of TLOU, and to explain how to reach the area with water, etc...
------------
A good game for this kind of benchs if GTAV, kudos to @kozarovv for this epileptic test, is easy and generates high temperatures in a stable way
You need to take a jetbike and go to any area of the sea where you have lot of water around... then accelerate at max driving in circles, and at the same time spin the camera to the opposite direction
Lets say... left stick to left... and right stick to right
Keep doing that for lets say... 5 minutes and the PS3 should be at his max temperature too
I just checked, and it give me 2,7ohm, which according to your knowledge, should be great. Now I am starting to be confused
Is this now deffinitive that it is not problem with my RSX?
I understand, so I just soldered again the syscon diag and here is the log:
The 3001 errors are all probably from today, I tried few times to power up the disassembled console
Why is the last 3034 code from 2006? It is because I removed cmos battery?
Do you see anything in this log, which should give me more info where to find my problem?
Should I do "bringup" command with fully assembled console? The command above was performed on fully disassembled console (just pcb and psu)
The 3034 means it's definately not the NEC/TOKINs. We tend to see this code when the console needs to be reballed. It's by far the most common error code. This conforms what we all thought to begin with. Perhaps it's not what we hoped! Namely, that the RSX has problems. Beit BGA defects, bumps or etc.
I don't think in your case that the RSX is dead. 2.7 Ohms is fine. However, to answer your first question, no it's not a definitive test. You would have to remove the RSX and ohm test it directly for a more definitive test.
In a nut shell, the processor's Voltage lines are separated from ground by about 3.2 Ohms when healthy. As it ages this resistance falls. When it falls enough, current begins to short and the RSX is dead. There are many factors that can affect this resistance. Flux residues reduce this resistance. Aging/fatigued lead-free solder in the bumps and BGA can cause it to fall. Electromigration from heat and use can cause it to fall. Capacitors and resistors can cause it to fall (both on the board and chip).
If it's just aging/fatigued solder in the BGA, then a reball can fix that. But if it's the bumps or electromigration in the DIE itself, the chip is dead. Since the BGA is known to be a common fault on early PS3's, a technician will often remove the RSX and directly ohm test it. This isolates the BGA from the equation. A direct ohm test reveals if there is a problem on the chip (Bumps, traces, substrate, resistors/caps and the die itself). If the RSX is bad, then it needs to be replaced, which can be done. It the chip is okay, then the problem was on the board (probably the BGA). The chip can be reballed and if that fixes it, great. If not, then further trouble shooting is needed.
Knowing it's not the RSX or BGA is important, because that's the most common fault. A technician is able to continue with diagnosis confident that part of the console is good. Many tech's just reball first to save time. It's such a common problem, you may as well get it over with. If it fixes the console great, if not then you can continue troubleshooting without that possibility looming over your head. I know that @vyktormvmpay25 and @squeept subscribe to the reball every console theory.
The SYSCON diagnostics show us a way forward that doesn't require a, "reball first, ask questions latter" attitude. Certain error codes can pinpoint the issue, so we don't have to waste our time on useless repairs, fixing what isn't broken just to remove the most common "possible problems" first. The SYSCON has made most of this thread irrelevant! Now we know 1002 is the Filter (Tokins) error and 3034 is the RSX (Bumps, BGA, Die, substrate, resistors, etc). There is still some ambiguity as to exactly which component failed, but it points to the general area, which is much better than guessing based on probability.
>$ eepcsum
eepcsum
Addr:0x000032fe should be 0x4fb7
Addr:0x000034fe should be 0xeade
sum:0x0100
Addr:0x000039fe should be 0x0f38
Addr:0x00003dfe should be 0x00ff
Addr:0x00003ffe should be 0x00ff
Your PS3 seems to be a bit special, the checksums are like an identifyer of this regions
We are collecting the thermal config regions from all the PS3 models in this wiki page and i never seen a thermal config with checksum 0xeade before, is the first time someone mentions it
Three months ago I bought CECHB from ebay, with warranty sticker intact. Three days ago it died, short YLOD.
When I opened it, it was delided. So I was pretty much scalped.
Hello Everyone.
I followed the tutorial very carefully and finally i managed to get some errors via Internal diag. Here are the errors (The new ones are the 2005 one's because i removed the internal battery):
I've managed to found that it is an HDMI IC error related, can someone give me his/her input on this to see if it is INDEED hdmi related or maybe, MAYYYYBE tokins lol ?
Thanks in advance.
Yes, you have the correct error code indicating the NEC/TOKINs need replaced. I wouldn't pay too much attention to the 2120 error. The HDMI error will occur when you have an HDMI cord plugged in during the YLOD. However, you need to confirm this. So unplug the HDMI cord and allow the console to experiance another YLOD. Reset and do it a few more times. Now when you read the SYSCON you should see a string of 1002's and no 2120's. If the 2120 is still there, then there could actually be an issue with the HDMI encoder.
Thanks for advising me, yeah, i was writing my post about TLOU at the same time than you was writing yours, but i was looking at the checksums and i was not so sure, i had to check the wiki page and his posts several times because this is a bit unexpected for me, if at some point you see other people reporting unknown thermal configs please advise them to do the same, only takes a few minutes
Please @Pelko run all this commands, and copypaste everything to a .TXT (not sure how long will be, you can post it in pastebin.com)
Code:
> revision
> version
> fantbl get 0
> fantbl get 1
> fantbl get 3
> tshutdown get 0
> tshutdown get 1
> tshutdown get 14
> eepcsum
> r 3300 200
The syscon model should be one of the known ones... is just they programmed it in a different way for some reason, maybe it was refurbished (a CELL replacement or something serious, but not RSX), or maybe is an special edition bundle, or dunno
I just checked, and it give me 2,7ohm, which according to your knowledge, should be great. Now I am starting to be confused
Is this now deffinitive that it is not problem with my RSX?
I understand, so I just soldered again the syscon diag and here is the log:
The 3001 errors are all probably from today, I tried few times to power up the disassembled console
Why is the last 3034 code from 2006? It is because I removed cmos battery?
Do you see anything in this log, which should give me more info where to find my problem?
Should I do "bringup" command with fully assembled console? The command above was performed on fully disassembled console (just pcb and psu)
Thanks for advising me, yeah, i was writing my post about TLOU at the same time than you was writing yours, but i was looking at the checksums and i was not so sure, i had to check the wiki page and his posts several times because this is a bit unexpected for me, if at some point you see other people reporting unknown thermal configs please advise them to do the same, only takes a few minutes
Please @Pelko run all this commands, and copypaste everything to a .TXT (not sure how long will be, you can post it in pastebin.com)
Code:
> revision
> version
> fantbl get 0
> fantbl get 1
> fantbl get 3
> tshutdown get 0
> tshutdown get 1
> tshutdown get 14
> eepcsum
> r 3300 200
The syscon model should be one of the known ones... is just they programmed it in a different way for some reason, maybe it was refurbished (a CELL replacement or something serious, but not RSX), or maybe is an special edition bundle, or dunno
Guys, you are amazing community. @sandungas right now I am away from the console for one week or so (today I left for bussiness trip). But once I will be back, I will do every single command or picture you need.
I will hapilly contribute.
What I know is that this console is directly bought from Japan and it is ntsc-j model. Is that why it is undocumented and special for us?
That's very possible. They released in Japan before they did in NA, so perhaps you have an earlier version. Most of the information here is from the American and European regions. Japan kinda has it's own forums and knowledge base, so it's possible our DATA isn't based on very many Japanese consoles. Interest peaked!
Guys, you are amazing community. @sandungas right now I am away from the console for one week or so (today I left for bussiness trip). But once I will be back, I will do every single command or picture you need.
I will hapilly contribute.
What I know is that this console is directly bought from Japan and it is ntsc-j model. Is that why it is undocumented and special for us?
Ok, no hurry Im not sure why the "thermal config" region from your syscon eeprom is different than the other COK-001 we found, this only happened 1 time before with a DIA-001
The DIA-001 have 2 posible thermal configs from factory, one of them have 14 fan speeds and the other 16
If your COK-001 is located chronologically at the very start or at the very end of the COK-001 production it could be something like what im mentioning for the DIA-001
I do have a CECH-B12 on hand at the moment I can hook up to see if it produces the same or different results to the other B model recently mentioned. Might take me a day or two to do it as I am a bit buried under with work at the moment.
Yes, you have the correct error code indicating the NEC/TOKINs need replaced. I wouldn't pay too much attention to the 2120 error. The HDMI error will occur when you have an HDMI cord plugged in during the YLOD. However, you need to confirm this. So unplug the HDMI cord and allow the console to experiance another YLOD. Reset and do it a few more times. Now when you read the SYSCON you should see a string of 1002's and no 2120's. If the 2120 is still there, then there could actually be an issue with the HDMI encoder.
First, thank you for the fast reply.
Second, sh*t. SH*T.
All those errors were created WITHOUT any cable plugged in (only the power source ofc).
I guess i'm boned.
But, nonetheless, i will try to ylod more times just to see if that 2120 error vanishes, but i'm not confident about it, seing that all the ylods i had, were created without the hdmi cable plugged in.
Furthermore, if it's really an HDMI error, do you know what i could do ?
Thank you.
First, thank you for the fast reply.
Second, sh*t. SH*T.
All those errors were created WITHOUT any cable plugged in (only the power source ofc).
I guess i'm boned.
But, nonetheless, i will try to ylod more times just to see if that 2120 error vanishes, but i'm not confident about it, seing that all the ylods i had, were created without the hdmi cable plugged in.
Furthermore, if it's really an HDMI error, do you know what i could do ?
Thank you.
I could be mistaken too. I'm going off memory from when I got those errors with a 1002. Try plugging an HDMI cord in while testing. Maybe I just have it backwards.
If the HDMI error doesn't vanish, focus on the tokins first. That's the bigger problem. I would start by adding a low ESR 470uF AlPol cap in parallel to the tokins like this.
That's what I call a parasitic capacitor. It may add back enough capacitance to allow your console to boot and remain stable, for awhile! It's probably not a permanent solution. I say use an AlPol caps because that's what the TOKINs are, and using similar caps is good when combining them. If you ever decide to replace all the tokins, a more permanent solution, then I recommend going with TaPol.
I could be mistaken too. I'm going off memory from when I got those errors with a 1002. Try plugging an HDMI cord in while testing. Maybe I just have it backwards.
If the HDMI error doesn't vanish, focus on the tokins first. That's the bigger problem. I would start by adding a low ESR 470uF AlPol cap in parallel to the tokins like this.
That's what I call a parasitic capacitor. It may add back enough capacitance to allow your console to boot and remain stable, for awhile! It's probably not a permanent solution. I say use an AlPol caps because that's what the TOKINs are, and using similar caps is good when combining them. If you ever decide to replace all the tokins, a more permanent solution, then I recommend going with TaPol.
That's because there's no pins. I just scratched with a knife to expose copper and solder directly there. GND and RSX +vcore. This way it is not necessary to touch or destroy the existing Nec tokin capacitors. So it is non-destructive test. If it works you can be happy. If not you'll have to keep troubleshooting.
I could be mistaken too. I'm going off memory from when I got those errors with a 1002. Try plugging an HDMI cord in while testing. Maybe I just have it backwards.
If the HDMI error doesn't vanish, focus on the tokins first. That's the bigger problem. I would start by adding a low ESR 470uF AlPol cap in parallel to the tokins like this.
That's what I call a parasitic capacitor. It may add back enough capacitance to allow your console to boot and remain stable, for awhile! It's probably not a permanent solution. I say use an AlPol caps because that's what the TOKINs are, and using similar caps is good when combining them. If you ever decide to replace all the tokins, a more permanent solution, then I recommend going with TaPol.
Cool name for capasitor parasite, but i call it longevity pill, because i see nec tokin that problem is like old people, whose abilities have decreased, so taking longevity pills makes you young again...lol, just eat 2 pills alone can make him live long...lol
i see that tutorial turn from find a solution for the ylod problem to cafe for chat no body try to find a solution for ylod or does any thing for that i said that because in first pages there were a lot solution for the ylod but after that it become just for chat please let's just focus on to find a best solution for the ylod forever
i see that tutorial turn from find a solution for the ylod problem to cafe for chat no body try to find a solution for ylod or does any thing for that i said that because in first pages there were a lot solution for the ylod but after that it become just for chat please let's just focus on to find a best solution for the ylod forever
