PS3 CECHA PS3 YLOD Saga

Okay - another update:

I disabled all the rebug settings as listed above and took a gamble in testing the game in my machine. Thankfully, the game did not overheat my unit, but the unit still turned off after 10 minutes in practice mode.

I was super nervous about the temperature, so as soon as the unit shut down and completed the mandatory filecheck after hard reboot, i quickly enabled webman and checked my temperatures and the results.. werent as bad as i thought. CPU was at 69 while RSX was 60. Pretty good for syscon fan settings on a CECHA, no? :)

Anyway, point is, this did not make a difference. All that is left is to try a completely different firmware, but somehow i'm doubtful that it is software related. I'm starting to think this is a problem that cannot be rectified sadly.

I just hope that anyone who has this problem from here on, can stumble upon this thread, as there is actualy a good deal of trial and error going on - as opposed to the people with this problem who have posted on sony forums, gamefaqs or whatever else where the only responses are along the lines of 'ITS JUST YLOD MATE BIN THE CONSOLE'

What is a good alternative to Rebug that i can test with?
 
IMPORTANT UPDATE!

So after installing my old rebug firmware, i was not confident that this was going to deter the random shut downs, so i setup a camera pointed directly at the power lights on the front of my console.

To no surprise, the game crashed the unit again, but the camera caught something which almost cemented my fears with the unit. The screen went black as usual, but as soon as that happened, the flashing light went from green.... to YELLOW! then switched to a blinking red, with the audio beeps the unit produces... does this mean.. what I think it means?

If it does mean what I think it means, how can only 1 game on the unit cause this to happen, especially when temperatures are fine? Also how am i able to power the unit back up and use it without any issues as long as its not tekken? My old 60gb YLOD but as soon as it happened, i was unable to use the system at all..

How can i have.. partial YLOD? With that being said, is there ANYTHING AT ALL i can do to either fix or prevent this from progressing? Again, the goal of this thread is not only to help me, but also help others experiencing this as the rest of the internet is very vague when dealing with this specific problem.
 
If you want to remove that dependency of software fan control there is a hardware mod that works pretty good named "adjustable speed acelerator", i was talking about it here:
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/have-someone-try-ezchill-ps3.19278/#post-130597

Dont confuse ezchill with the "adjustable speed acelerator" i was talking about, the way they works is very different, ezchill was a bad idea, and the fan acelerator is the only correct way to do it by now (until someone finds a way to change the fan speed settings inside syscon chip)

I know, this is not directly related with your problem, but you like PS3s and the "adjustable speed acelerator" is compatible with all PS3 models, so if you eventualy buy other PS3 you can install it in the other PS3, the installation is just a "plug and play"
So if you decide to buy it is not wasted money, i have one and works great
 
SeanRanklin said:
IMPORTANT UPDATE!

So after installing my old rebug firmware, i was not confident that this was going to deter the random shut downs, so i setup a camera pointed directly at the power lights on the front of my console.

To no surprise, the game crashed the unit again, but the camera caught something which almost cemented my fears with the unit. The screen went black as usual, but as soon as that happened, the flashing light went from green.... to YELLOW! then switched to a blinking red, with the audio beeps the unit produces... does this mean.. what I think it means?

If it does mean what I think it means, how can only 1 game on the unit cause this to happen, especially when temperatures are fine? Also how am i able to power the unit back up and use it without any issues as long as its not tekken? My old 60gb YLOD but as soon as it happened, i was unable to use the system at all..

How can i have.. partial YLOD? With that being said, is there ANYTHING AT ALL i can do to either fix or prevent this from progressing? Again, the goal of this thread is not only to help me, but also help others experiencing this as the rest of the internet is very vague when dealing with this specific problem.
Click to expand...
Mate, i forgot to mention, back when i experienced these random shutdowns with GT6 i was running stock 4.81 and GT6 via Disc, had the same for about 10 min or after a race, Black screen following by a shutdown, 3 beeps, green, yellow and blinking red.

Many reports suggest that GT6 puts too much strain into older models, thats why the system shutdown to prevent further damage.

My suggestion, but that depends on your budget, get a 2500 series and keep the 60Gb,imo isn't worth the hassle.

I have the 60Gb primarly for collection purposes, and the 4000 series for non stop torture :D

I had a 2500 series before, and i can say its a great model to own, reliable and jailbreakable (if firmware is below 3.56) you are pretty much golden, mine died due to a bad flash while running file manager, but thats history. :)

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Mate, i forgot to mention, back when i experienced these random shutdowns with GT6 i was running stock 4.81 and GT6 via Disc, had the same for about 10 min or after a race, Black screen following by a shutdown, 3 beeps, green, yellow and blinking red.

Many reports suggest that GT6 puts too much strain into older models, thats why the system shutdown to prevent further damage.

My suggestion, but that depends on your budget, get a 2500 series and keep the 60Gb,imo isn't worth the hassle.

I have the 60Gb primarly for collection purposes, and the 4000 series for non stop torture :D

I had a 2500 series before, and i can say its a great model to own, reliable and jailbreakable (if firmware is below 3.56) you are pretty much golden, mine died due to a bad flash while running file manager, but thats history. :)

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use my 60gb as my main console,mine is working great.

I am pretty sure that the problem of SeanRanklin is a faulty component,
I have never had a problem as severe as this on my unit...
 
sandungas said:
If you want to remove that dependency of software fan control there is a hardware mod that works pretty good named "adjustable speed acelerator", i was talking about it here:
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/have-someone-try-ezchill-ps3.19278/#post-130597

Dont confuse ezchill with the "adjustable speed acelerator" i was talking about, the way they works is very different, ezchill was a bad idea, and the fan acelerator is the only correct way to do it by now (until someone finds a way to change the fan speed settings inside syscon chip)

I know, this is not directly related with your problem, but you like PS3s and the "adjustable speed acelerator" is compatible with all PS3 models, so if you eventualy buy other PS3 you can install it in the other PS3, the installation is just a "plug and play"
So if you decide to buy it is not wasted money, i have one and works great
Click to expand...
Yeah, I did stumble upon this on a YouTube video a while ago. It has been in the back of my mind, but it looks like I wont have much use for it in this current machine anymore :(

Naked_Snake1995 said:
Mate, i forgot to mention, back when i experienced these random shutdowns with GT6 i was running stock 4.81 and GT6 via Disc, had the same for about 10 min or after a race, Black screen following by a shutdown, 3 beeps, green, yellow and blinking red.

Many reports suggest that GT6 puts too much strain into older models, thats why the system shutdown to prevent further damage.

My suggestion, but that depends on your budget, get a 2500 series and keep the 60Gb,imo isn't worth the hassle.

I have the 60Gb primarly for collection purposes, and the 4000 series for non stop torture :D

I had a 2500 series before, and i can say its a great model to own, reliable and jailbreakable (if firmware is below 3.56) you are pretty much golden, mine died due to a bad flash while running file manager, but thats history. :)

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The thing is, i already have a first gen slim model bought brand new in 2009. This thing is as strong as an OX. It recieved heavy daily use between 2013-2016 and is still working without any issues (although the insertion and ejection of discs into the unit feels noticeably slower than when it was new) I am trying to keep this system as genuine as possible, but it's always been a dream to have an original 60gb unit that plays every PS1/2/3 game right off the disc... a dream which was almost a reality if it wouldnt YLOD at Tekken.
 
Fanhais said:
i continue to say is nec tokin capacitor put some tantalo capacitors in parallel with nec tokin in cell and rsx
Click to expand...
You might just be correct and i'd love to try, but i'm afraid I dont have the knowledge or skill to be able to replace such components in the system without destroying it.
 
SeanRanklin said:
You might just be correct and i'd love to try, but i'm afraid I dont have the knowledge or skill to be able to replace such components in the system without destroying it.
Click to expand...
He is not saying to replace it, but to solder another capacitor "on top" (or at a side) of the original tokin capacitor. Is a bit easyer than replacing it because is not needed to remove the original tokin capacitor, and electrically is correct, when you connect several capacitors in parallel his capacitance sums to the total, so is the same than having a single capacitor
This works ONLY if the original capacitor is not in internal shorcut, and yours are not in shorcut (if it was in shorcut the motherboard should refuse to turn on)
 
sandungas said:
He is not saying to replace it, but to solder another capacitor "on top" (or at a side) of the original tokin capacitor. Is a bit easyer than replacing it because is not needed to remove the original tokin capacitor, and electrically is correct, when you connect several capacitors in parallel his capacitance sums to the total, so is the same than having a single capacitor
This works ONLY if the original capacitor is not in internal shorcut, and yours are not in shorcut (if it was in shorcut the motherboard should refuse to turn on)
Click to expand...

I hear that method is in-effective for the YLOD issue, as stated on this page below:

http://www.pinoyps.com/viewtopic.php?t=68073

What is your opinion on the above?
 
Your PS3 is working (for a time) so we are confident your tokin capacitors are not in shorcut, and are not completly damaged
What could be happening is that could be partially damaged, sometimes when a capacitor is partially damaged it doesnt works when is cool but after some heat starts working.... and sometimes it happens that the capacitor works fine until it gets hot and them stops working
You could be in the second case, but is just speculation, we cant be sure

Also, is important to mention that capacitors are BIG (n comparison with any other SMD capacitor), the 1500uf someone mentioned before is a lot for a SMD capacitor, a electrolitic capacitor with that value usually is the size of... dunno... a tip of a cigarette or even bigger, but the tokin SMD capacitors of the PS3 are very small
So they are handling lot of work, is a critical component for sure

And (in my oppinion) you should not classify all YLOD error codes as caused by overheating... the amount of error codes given by the PS3 is small so it could be a general hardware problem. In some way you can think in it as telling "one hardware component is not working" (usually the RSX and CELL but could be others)
Personally i dont think your PS3 is having overheating and it doesnt have any damage caused by overheatings in the past because if it was like that you would be experiencing this problem more frequently and increasing exponentially until the point your PS3 refuses to boot at all
The reason for this is because when you have a broken solder ball or a lifted pad (under CELL/RSX) the pressure can help the electricity to make the "jump" on the fracture but by continuing using the console the sparks makes the fracture bigger, it makes some "oxidation" of the solder material and creates some kind of black "garbage" in the middle of the fracture and eventually the electricity cant make the "jump" so the line is broken completly
You are not having this, so i dont think this is the problem, it seems the solder balls are ok... if you want to verify this the only way is to continue using the PS3 until it stops working

In electronics usually you can replace a capacitor by any other with EQUAL or BIGGER capacitance and voltage
Think in the capacitor as a "buffer" and the electricity as water, the capacitor holds some electricity inside and this way it can handle any "high peak" electricity requirement of the components located next to it (CELL/RSX in this case), this way the "water supply" is very stable because the water pipe never gets empty
If the buffer was originally 1500uf and you replace it by 3000uf the only difference is it takes a bit more time to "fill" the buffer (at the instant when you turn ON the PS3 the capacitor is charging), but the buffer is better because is bigger (it can handle better the requirement peaks of CELL/RSX)

And the voltage doesnt matters, you can replace a capacitor in a line with 5v by a capacitor labeled as 12v
This guetto trick have a limit though, if the capacitor is 10uf @ 5v and you replace it by a capacitor of 5000uf @ 220v mostly probably is not going to work (because the buffer takes lot of time to "fill")

--------------
Lets assume your tokin capacitors are partially damaged... originally was 1500uf but now are 1100uf
If you add another 1500uf on top of it you will have 1100+1500=2600uf and is fine like that

I think it worths the try, the risky thing is to try to remove the original tokin capacitor in a harmful way, the best/easy way is by using 2 solder irons (one in each hand) and use them as tweezers touching at the sides of the capacitor at the same time to melt solder at both sides, and extract it "forceless" in safe way
But the risk in damaging the motherboard is minimal, even if you solder the capacitor in reversed position, or if you drop some solder ball on the motherboard creating a shorcut.... the motherboard is going to detect the shorcut and is going to refuse to boot (and probably is going to show you the YLOD)
 
Last edited:
sandungas said:
Your PS3 is working (for a time) so we are confident your tokin capacitors are not in
Lets assume your tokin capacitors are partially damaged... originally was 1500uf but now are 1100uf
If you add another 1500uf on top of it you will have 1100+1500=2600uf and is fine like that

I think it worths the try, the risky thing is to try to remove the original tokin capacitor in a harmful way, the best/easy way is by using 2 solder irons (one in each hand) and use them as tweezers touching at the sides of the capacitor at the same time to melt solder at both sides, and extract it "forceless" in safe way
But the risk in damaging the motherboard is minimal, even if you solder the capacitor in reversed position, or if you drop some solder ball on the motherboard creating a shorcut.... the motherboard is going to detect the shorcut and is going to refuse to boot (and probably is going to show you the YLOD)
Click to expand...

From working and experiemnting on different PS3s motherboards,
A short will cause a green light of death,
The motherboard can take a lot of heat but don't test your luck,
It already happened to me that i made a hole in a PS3 motherboard because i forgot the soldering iron in one place for too long.

And you can connect capacitors in parallel instead of removing the old one.
 
Vishera said:
From working and experiemnting on different PS3s motherboards,
A short will cause a green light of death,
The motherboard can take a lot of heat but don't test your luck,
It already happened to me that i made a hole in a PS3 motherboard because i forgot the soldering iron in one place for too long.

And you can connect capacitors in parallel instead of removing the old one.
Click to expand...
I made an stupid mistake the first time i opened a PS3 slim when assembling the metal shields, first you need to "insert" one of the shields inside the other at the border of the HDMI connector, then you can close them like when closing a book, but i did not noticed this and i did it wrong
When i connected the power cord the PS3 lighted the red standby led (ok... all fine), but when i tryed to turn it ON it was showing some error code and refused to boot (OMG, panic mode !)
After taking a breath trying to imagine what i did wrong, i dediced to dissassembly it again entirelly and i noticed the metal shields was touching some tracks of the circuit... so i discovered i had a massive shorcut \o/
The motherboard survived though (thanks sony engineers you rock), so it has protections to prevent this kind of problems, if there is a shorcut the motherboard refuses to boot, this way the shorcut doesnt "spreads" and destroys other components, is pretty cool

I dont remember the error code it was showing or what it was doing exactly though
 
sandungas said:
Your PS3 is working (for a time) so we are confident your tokin capacitors are not in shorcut, and are not completly damaged
What could be happening is that could be partially damaged, sometimes when a capacitor is partially damaged it doesnt works when is cool but after some heat starts working.... and sometimes it happens that the capacitor works fine until it gets hot and them stops working
You could be in the second case, but is just speculation, we cant be sure

Also, is important to mention that capacitors are BIG (n comparison with any other SMD capacitor), the 1500uf someone mentioned before is a lot for a SMD capacitor, a electrolitic capacitor with that value usually is the size of... dunno... a tip of a cigarette or even bigger, but the tokin SMD capacitors of the PS3 are very small
So they are handling lot of work, is a critical component for sure

And (in my oppinion) you should not classify all YLOD error codes as caused by overheating... the amount of error codes given by the PS3 is small so it could be a general hardware problem. In some way you can think in it as telling "one hardware component is not working" (usually the RSX and CELL but could be others)
Personally i dont think your PS3 is having overheating and it doesnt have any damage caused by overheatings in the past because if it was like that you would be experiencing this problem more frequently and increasing exponentially until the point your PS3 refuses to boot at all
The reason for this is because when you have a broken solder ball or a lifted pad (under CELL/RSX) the pressure can help the electricity to make the "jump" on the fracture but by continuing using the console the sparks makes the fracture bigger, it makes some "oxidation" of the solder material and creates some kind of black "garbage" in the middle of the fracture and eventually the electricity cant make the "jump" so the line is broken completly
You are not having this, so i dont think this is the problem, it seems the solder balls are ok... if you want to verify this the only way is to continue using the PS3 until it stops working

In electronics usually you can replace a capacitor by any other with EQUAL or BIGGER capacitance and voltage
Think in the capacitor as a "buffer" and the electricity as water, the capacitor holds some electricity inside and this way it can handle any "high peak" electricity requirement of the components located next to it (CELL/RSX in this case), this way the "water supply" is very stable because the water pipe never gets empty
If the buffer was originally 1500uf and you replace it by 3000uf the only difference is it takes a bit more time to "fill" the buffer (at the instant when you turn ON the PS3 the capacitor is charging), but the buffer is better because is bigger (it can handle better the requirement peaks of CELL/RSX)

And the voltage doesnt matters, you can replace a capacitor in a line with 5v by a capacitor labeled as 12v
This guetto trick have a limit though, if the capacitor is 10uf @ 5v and you replace it by a capacitor of 5000uf @ 220v mostly probably is not going to work (because the buffer takes lot of time to "fill")

--------------
Lets assume your tokin capacitors are partially damaged... originally was 1500uf but now are 1100uf
If you add another 1500uf on top of it you will have 1100+1500=2600uf and is fine like that

I think it worths the try, the risky thing is to try to remove the original tokin capacitor in a harmful way, the best/easy way is by using 2 solder irons (one in each hand) and use them as tweezers touching at the sides of the capacitor at the same time to melt solder at both sides, and extract it "forceless" in safe way
But the risk in damaging the motherboard is minimal, even if you solder the capacitor in reversed position, or if you drop some solder ball on the motherboard creating a shorcut.... the motherboard is going to detect the shorcut and is going to refuse to boot (and probably is going to show you the YLOD)
Click to expand...
So you are leaning towards a partially damaged Tokin Capacitor? How can I try and diagnose which one is the culprit, again, how could this be present only in a handful of games?

I also dont believe this is due to heat. My unit runs at a good temp (so far) so I am quite confident there.

Also I am not blaming the chips as of yet for my problem. I know that the YLOD flash is due to many different general hardware problems, but my issue is, I have no way of narrowing down the problem.

Do you think it is worth me to test another power supply?
 
Vishera said:
Not a YLOD,
YLOD is when the CPU or the RSX are dead,your CPU and RSX look in good condition.
Click to expand...

Actually, YLOD means general hardware problem and not just CELL/RSX fault. I believe my chips are fine (for now) but something else is causing a problem, only in this game so far. I believe it would also crash in GT6 or BLOPS2 (as most people online with the fault similar to mine, experience problem with these 2 other games)

The question here is, how do i locate the source of the problem?

I finally own a unit that can play all of my PS1/2/3 games, except my favorite PS3 game of all time, lol :culpability:
 
SeanRanklin said:
Actually, YLOD means general hardware problem and not just CELL/RSX fault. I believe my chips are fine (for now) but something else is causing a problem, only in this game so far. I believe it would also crash in GT6 or BLOPS2 (as most people online with the fault similar to mine, experience problem with these 2 other games)

The question here is, how do i locate the source of the problem?

I finally own a unit that can play all of my PS1/2/3 games, except my favorite PS3 game of all time, lol :culpability:
Click to expand...

You can always test the voltage,resistance and current of every component in the system until you find a component with incorrect values.

All NAND units even the healthy ones crash with Gran Turismo 6,
Never test your PS3 with Gran Turismo 6.
 
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