CFW PS3 turns off on while playing certain games

DeViL303 said:
There is no way to know for sure, like kozarovv said there is a chance that it is starting to YLOD, and when chips heats up past 40c it is actually expanding and making better contact for a while, and then as it expands more it is breaking contact.

If it shuts down even at 40c it means either PSU is bad or it is about to YLOD imo, if its the PSU then doing the thermal paste will not help, if its already starting to YLOD with broken solder then doing thermal paste will not help, your only option is to try find another PSU to test in it, maybe you could get a broken ps3 cheap.

If testing another PSU does not work then its probably not worth fixing tbh, you could try a home reflow job with a heat gun as a last resort but its not really recommended, it has as much chance of breaking it worse as fixing it.
Click to expand...
I'll have to wait some time to buy a new PSU to see if it works, if not then i guess there's nothing more i can do about it, i got two more questions, could the CFW have affected my PS3 funcionality for bad? Should i avoid using it until i get to change the PSU?
 
That's up to you, if its working on some games and not over heating I suppose its ok, but without knowing whats wrong there is no way to tell what could happen.
 
I see, Thank you for your replies and your pacience, i'm a really sad about my PS3 but i guess his time is coming really soon, I'll maybe try another PSU when i get the chance and see if it works but that will take some time, I'll continue this thread when the moment arrives (if it does), yet again i want to say thank you very much :)
 
Well i am starting to suspect the Power Supply its more the issue,if it shuts off

There where a couple of PS3s that manifest this symptom,but cant reckon which models are prone to this

Can you at least describe me the power supply model you have!?

As far as i know for the 2000 Series where the APS-250 or EADP-220

I dont remember which PSU was at mine 2500 Series, as i disassembled the PSU a long time ago

There should be one with two rotating voltage regulators, but i dont know which model it has them, but i know mine doesnt

I know that there was a model of Slim that had this powering off problem fiasco, and by regulating the voltage at the PSU with a screwdriver, the PS3 would work again flawlessly, but for how much time i cant reckon that.

Basically the PS3 wasn't receiving enough juice, and by result it shuts itself off
 
Darklink007 said:
I see, Thank you for your replies and your pacience, i'm a really sad about my PS3 but i guess his time is coming really soon, I'll maybe try another PSU when i get the chance and see if it works but that will take some time, I'll continue this thread when the moment arrives (if it does), yet again i want to say thank you very much :)
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Yes, you got a good run out of it though. Shame it had to go now just after you xploited it. Hopefully you can get it sorted. Keep an eye out for broken ps3s, or you could try take it to a repair shop, they might have a spare PSU and that way you could find out if it fixes issue without buying one first.

If it has those voltage regulators that @Naked_Snake1995 mentioned you might still have a chance to fix it for free.
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Well i am starting to suspect the Power Supply its more the issue,if it shuts off

There where a couple of PS3s that manifest this symptom,but cant reckon which models are prone to this

Can you at least describe me the power supply model you have!?

As far as i know for the 2000 Series where the APS-250 or EADP-220

I dont remember which PSU was at mine 2500 Series, as i disassembled the PSU a long time ago

There should be one with two rotating voltage regulators, but i dont know which model it has them, but i know mine doesnt

I know that there was a model of Slim that had this powering off problem fiasco, and by regulating the voltage at the PSU with a screwdriver, the PS3 would work again flawlessly, but for how much time i cant reckon that.

Basically the PS3 wasn't receiving enough juice, and by result it shuts itself off
Click to expand...
Hey! Well i have never dissambled my PS3 before so i don't know which PSU model i have, i still need the tools to start doing it, but if i do get the tools (which i think will take some time) and dissamble it i can post the psu model here or send it to you in a message, i'll be very grateful if you can give me some info about it
 
Another thing you need to check is the hdd... replacing it temporally (for tests) by a different hdd
An hdd with problems could cause random crashes in games, i would not bet on hdd right now after reading your messages but anyway, just incase
 
sandungas said:
Another thing you need to rid out id the hdd
An hdd with problems could cause random crashes in games, i would not bet on hdd right now after reading your messages but anyway, just incase
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'll take that in mind, btw, aside from the HDD and PSU replacement, Should i still do the RSX deliding? Or could it be unnecesary? I have my PS3 since 2010 and i have play a lot in it so i think i'll make sense it needs the thermal paste
 
Darklink007 said:
Thanks! I'll take that in mind, btw, aside from the HDD and PSU replacement, Should i still do the RSX deliding? Or could it be unnecesary? I have my PS3 since 2010 and i have play a lot in it so i think i'll make sense it needs the thermal paste
Click to expand...
The RSX and/or CELL delidings doesnt seems needed after you made the temperature tests where you verifyed the PS3 is shutting down under 60ºC or so
In other words, the problems you are having doesnt seems related with overheating
Later you can make better temperature tests to know if your CELL or RSX has heat problems
Basically, what you need to know is the difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX should not be very high (less than 8ºC or so can be considered aceptable)... but this is something you should take care later, after you solve the problem of the crashes

What they was trying to explain to you is to make an accurate temperature test you need to "keep an eye" very frequently (idealistically on real time) at the temperature values while playing inside a game... and in a area of the game where the game engine squeezes the PS3
If you look at the temperatures while in XMB... well... the values are not realistic... the temperatures varies a lot, as example inside a game if you go to an small area of the game (inside a room) the workload is very different than if you look at temperatures while in the middle of a battle with explosions everywhere and dust clouds and stuff flying over the air
At this point is where appears the higest temperature peaks... this is the temperature value you need to know to have under controll ;)

When you was doing the tests you had the fan speed superfast (you dont need to use that fast speeds for normal use, but for the tests was a good idea to do it that way)... and because that superfast speeds your temperature did seem to be very low... but still the PS3 crashed... from this we can deduce the crashes are not directly related with temperature, is a different thing

Next tests you should do are:
-replace hdd
-replace PSU (in this case i use to mention there are some mods to connect a PC ATX PSU to a PS3... temporally for testing)
 
sandungas said:
The RSX and/or CELL delidings doesnt seems needed after you made the temperature tests where you verifyed the PS3 is shutting down under 60ºC or so
In other words, the problems you are having doesnt seems related with overheating
Later you can make better temperature tests to know if your CELL or RSX has heat problems
Basically, what you need to know is the difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX should not be very high (less than 8ºC or so can be considered aceptable)... but this is something you should take care later, after you solve the problem of the crashes

What they was trying to explain to you is to make an accurate temperature test you need to "keep an eye" very frequently (idealistically on real time) at the temperature values while playing inside a game... and in a area of the game where the game engine squeezes the PS3
If you look at the temperatures while in XMB... well... the values are not realistic... the temperatures varies a lot, as example inside a game if you go to an small area of the game (inside a room) the workload is very different than if you look at temperatures while in the middle of a battle with explosions everywhere and dust clouds and stuff flying over the air
At this point is where appears the higest temperature peaks... this is the temperature value you need to know to have under controll ;)

When you was doing the tests you had the fan speed superfast (you dont need to use that fast speeds for normal use, but for the tests was a good idea to do it that way)... and because that superfast speeds your temperature did seem to be very low... but still the PS3 crashed... from this we can deduce the crashes are not directly related with temperature, is a different thing

Next tests you should do are:
-replace hdd
-replace PSU (in this case i use to mention there are some mods to connect a PC ATX PSU to a PS3... temporally for testing)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! When i made the second test, i tried to see the temps from my PC entering the website, but i didn't knew where i could get my PS3 IP (i have my PS3 totally offline since CFW) the link only showed "localhost" so i decided to look at it every 5 min on the XMB with the buttons combination of Webman while playing, i played the game trying to drive as fast as i could around the map, crashing into other cars, starting hot pursuits... Though i must admit i stopped every now and then to hide in the garage so that should have affected the test (silly me) i'll test them again when i get the PSU and HDD work done and i'll post them here.

About the HDD replacement, it is possible to make a backup of my games saves? I ask because when i tried to move a save data to use it in another profile, the games stated the they couldn't use it because it's from another user, will the same happen if i backup my games saves in an external HDD/pendrive and attempt to load them again? In case something goes wrong

About the PSU, i read about the mod you're mentioning, i see that there's a chance to damage the console and even make a fire (of course, i understand that a risk always exist even in the smallest mods) so in which case i should attempt to use this mod?
 
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Darklink007 said:
i decided to look at it every 5 min on the XMB with the buttons combination of Webman while playing, i played the game trying to drive as fast as i could around the map, crashing into other cars, starting hot pursuits... Though i must admit i stopped every now and then to hide in the garage so that should have affected the test (silly me) i'll test them again when i get the PSU and HDD work done and i'll post them here.
Click to expand...
Yeah, thats the point, first you need to "warm up" the whole PS3 by playing normally for at least 30 or 40 minutes. This is considering the PS3 starts from ambient temperature, if we start from ambient are need around 40 minutes for the whole components of the PS3 to reach a temperature that could be considered a bit stable, and inside a game

In the practise the temperatures inside a game are not stables, varies a lot, this is why to make a good test you need to cause some chaos on screen for as long as 2 minutes or more... and in this exact moment you need to look at the temperatures... that should be (if done well) your maximun temperature... and represents a "temperature peak"... are hard to catch because could happen fast, so you need to look temperatures more frequently when doing this to try to catch the "peaks"

I explained all this details mostly for you to get the overall concept just so we all are sure your temperature meassures was correct (in the worst scenario posible), but you dont need to go picky with this right now because as i mentioned the test you made with very fast fan speeds was a good idea and has been useful to know the crashing problems doesnt comes from that

Later when you repair the problem of the crashes you can spend some time making this kind of tests with different games to find the speed settings that fits better for your PS3

Also, what i mentioned before, you need to make another test (starting from ambient temperature) to look at the difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX... in two enviroments
-When booting the PS3 from ambient temperature ---> to XMB (dont do anything and check temperatures for 20 minutes)
-Ingame (10 or 15 minutes of play should be enought to expose the posible temperature problems)

Darklink007 said:
About the HDD replacement, it is possible to make a backup of my games saves? I ask because when i tried to move a save data to use it in another profile, the games stated the they couldn't use it because it's from another user, will the same happen if i backup my games saves in an external HDD/pendrive and attempt to load them again? In case something goes wrong
Click to expand...
If your PS3 has a NOR flash, you can take the hdd out of the PS3 (and reserve it, dont do anything with it)... and replace it temporally by a different hdd
If you do that, at the next boot with the new hdd the PS3 is going to ask you to install the firmware (from PUP), you should install the same firmware you had before replacing the hdd

Then install a backup manager or whatever you use, then run a game (and complete the gamedata/savedata/trophy) installation to the internal hdd... and see if the problem of crashes still happens
If it still happens... then the problem is not related with hdd, so you can replace the hdd by the old one and the PS3 will boot like if nothing happened (no need to reinstall firmware this time, because the old hdd was fine)

Darklink007 said:
About the PSU, i read about the mod you're mentioning, i see that there's a chance to damage the console and even make a fire (of course, i understand that a risk always exist even in the smallest mods) so in which case i should attempt to use this mod?
Click to expand...
No risk of that as far i know, the PS3 components are going to take from the power supply the amount of current they needs (not more)
As example, in PS3 slims the power supplies are around 270w iirc but you could replace the power supply by a 700w one from PC, there is no problem with that

The problem of this mod to connect an ATX PSU to a PS3 is because the way how the ON/OFF button works
In a ATX PSU the green wire of the ATX connector needs to be grounded for the power rails to work (that generates the voltages)
In a PS3 we just need 12v and 5v power rails (and another 5v for standby), this ones are easy
But the ON/OFF button of the PS3 doesnt works by grounding it... so is not posible to connect a direct wire from the PS3 ON/OFF button to the green wire of the ATX PSU, i remember to speculate with other people about using a small transistor to bypass this problem, and it should work but nobody made it as far i know

Anyway, this problem with the ON/OFF button is only incase you want to use the ATX PSU permanently attached to the PS3 (some kind of case mod or for using the PS3 motherboard inside a PC chasis)
For you i guess doesnt have importance, because the idea of replacing the PSU of the PS3 by an ATX PSU is just a test to be 100% sure the problem comes from it
I think you can forget about the PS3 ON/OFF button (no connection in between the PS3 ON/OFF button and the ATX PSU) and just turn it ON by grounding the green wire of the ATX PSU
 
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sandungas said:
Yeah, thats the point, first you need to "warm up" the whole PS3 by playing normally for at least 30 or 40 minutes. This is considering the PS3 starts from ambient temperature, if we start from ambient are need around 40 minutes for the whole components of the PS3 to reach a temperature that could be considered a bit stable, and inside a game

In the practise the temperatures inside a game are not stables, varies a lot, this is why to make a good test you need to cause some chaos on screen for as long as 2 minutes or more... and in this exact moment you need to look at the temperatures... that should be (if done well) your maximun temperature... and represents a "temperature peak"... are hard to catch because could happen fast, so you need to look temperatures more frequently when doing this to try to catch the "peaks"

I explained all this details mostly for you to get the overall concept just so we all are sure your temperature meassures was correct (in the worst scenario posible), but you dont need to go picky with this right now because as i mentioned the test you made with very fast fan speeds was a good idea and has been useful to know the crashing problems doesnt comes from that

Later when you repair the problem of the crashes you can spend some time making this kind of tests with different games to find the speed settings that fits better for your PS3

Also, what i mentioned before, you need to make another test (starting from ambient temperature) to look at the difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX... in two enviroments
-When booting the PS3 from ambient temperature ---> to XMB (dont do anything and check temperatures for 20 minutes)
-Ingame (10 or 15 minutes of play should be enought to expose the posible temperature problems)


If your PS3 has a NOR flash, you can take the hdd out of the PS3 (and reserve it, dont do anything with it)... and replace it temporally by a different hdd
If you do that, at the next boot with the new hdd the PS3 is going to ask you to install the firmware (from PUP), you should install the same firmware you had before replacing the hdd

Then install a backup manager or whatever you use, then run a game (and complete the gamedata/savedata/trophy) installation to the internal hdd... and see if the problem of crashes still happens
If it still happens... then the problem is not related with hdd, so you can replace the hdd by the old one and the PS3 will boot like if nothing happened (no need to reinstall firmware this time, because the old hdd was fine)


No risk of that as far i know, the PS3 components are going to take from the power supply the amount of current they needs (not more)
As example, in PS3 slims the power supplies are around 270w iirc but you could replace the power supply by a 700w one from PC, there is no problem with that

The problem of this mod to connect an ATX PSU to a PS3 is because the way how the ON/OFF button works
In a ATX PSU the green wire of the ATX connector needs to be grounded for the power rails to work (that generates the voltages)
In a PS3 we just need 12v and 5v power rails (and another 5v for standby), this ones are easy
But the ON/OFF button of the PS3 doesnt works by grounding it... so is not posible to connect a direct wire from the PS3 ON/OFF button to the green wire of the ATX PSU, i remember to speculate with other people about using a small transistor to bypass this problem, and it should work but nobody made it as far i know

Anyway, this problem with the ON/OFF button is only incase you want to use the ATX PSU permanently attached to the PS3 (some kind of case mod or for using the PS3 motherboard inside a PC chasis)
For you i guess doesnt have importance, because the idea of replacing the PSU of the PS3 by an ATX PSU is just a test to be 100% sure the problem comes from it
I think you can forget about the PS3 ON/OFF button (no connection in between the PS3 ON/OFF button and the ATX PSU) and just turn it ON by grounding the green wire of the ATX PSU
Click to expand...
Thank you, i'll take what you said into account and make those two test when i get to solve the crashing problem, though like i said before i'll probably take me some months to get the tools, an HDD and a PSU when the time comes i will post the results here, i hope you're still around by that moment :)

Do you know a tutorial i can use if i ever have to make the ATX PSU test? I'm a little scared about doing a mod so if you do know one, i'll be really helpful
 
For your entertaining pleasure,ive sacrificed my 60Gb 90nm RSX from a COK-002 Board and Delided to demonstrate you a proper Delid without damage ;)

PS: Got a swap board yesterday,this one had the USB trace ruined by the previous owner,so no harm done here :)
964199eb98a354e85a2a23f7e2b235a7.jpg


Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 
Darklink007 said:
Thank you, i'll take what you said into account and make those two test when i get to solve the crashing problem, though like i said before i'll probably take me some months to get the tools, an HDD and a PSU when the time comes i will post the results here, i hope you're still around by that moment :)

Do you know a tutorial i can use if i ever have to make the ATX PSU test? I'm a little scared about doing a mod so if you do know one, i'll be really helpful
Click to expand...
With the hdd replacement test you could do it with a 2.5" you have at home, personally i dont think the hdd is what is causing the crashing problem, but is something i would take a look if i where you, just incase

I cant give you a link of a tutorial to make the ATX PSU mod sorry, i dont remember any good one
The idea of the test with the ATX PSU was to be sure this is the problem, at this point is a bit risky for you to buy a new PSU because you are not sure if the problem is in the PSU... most probably is going to be that, but you know
 
Found a blog where appears some photos, is in spanish though
http://ulisesllamas.blogspot.com.es/2009/07/fuente-de-poder-atx-en-ps3.html

Im posting this link mostly so you get an overall idea of how is made, but if you decide to do it dont follow the tutorial literally, there are some details needed to mention that differs a bit from what is explained there:

-Some PS3 PSU models uses a diferent pinout in the small white connector... this varies by PS3... so before following a tutorial strictly you need to be sure the pinout of your white small connector is the same than the one that appears in the tutorial, to see the pinouts you can look at the pages in wiki, by cliking in the PSU model http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply#PSU_Model_.40_SKU_compatiblity (but again dont take all the info in wiki about that pinouts literally, maybe there is some error)

-The watts that "travels" along the new wires (from ATX to PS3 motherboard) are a lot more than the watts for wich was designed every single wire of a PC ATX PSU
Think in it... in a PC ATX PSU every connector for a device (old IDE or SATA connectors) are designed to power up devices that doesnt reachs 10w max or so (im not sure how much, but not much), so the wires are thin
But a PS3 motherboard needs more than 170w (in a single "pin")
The way to solve this problem is to join together several wires to that "pin"... so for the 12v connection instead of using a single wire (like in the blog photos) you need to "join together" 5 or 6 of the same color
If you dont do this and use only a thin wire (like in the blog) what is going to happen is the wire overheats and the plastic cover of the wire melts

This are the two more important things you need to know
Search in youtube for "PS3 + ATX", ive found some videos too but did not watched them



Edit:
When i said is needed to "join together" several wires of the same color from the ATX i was thinking in the 12v ones (yellow color in ATX)... this wires that are going to be joined together should belong to the same rail of the ATX... in other words... internally in the ATX circuit board should be soldered together

Most of the ATX PSU has two rails for 12v... but there are some that only has a single rail for 12v
If your ATX has two 12v rails... then use only the wires of one of them
So this is something needed to ckeck by openening the ATX to see which ones are soldered together
 
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@Darklink007 maybe you can try to remove erverything plugged in the usb ports to keep more power for your ps3. Put one game in your internal hdd to test if the ps3 still shuts down.
 
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