PS3 Different kinds of YLODs

Laith

Laith

Member
Hi! I'm back with another support question, lol.

This time around I'm wondering what we know about YLODs, other than the stuff on psdevwiki. I recently got a YLOD on my CECHC that was seemingly random, seeing as though the temperatures were good and the fact that it came with 2.42 when I got it. The night before the YLOD, I had installed REBUG and webMAN and the temperatures were fine. The PS3 was sitting in a drawer bricked for 6 months, and it barely got any use when I got it. The console was working splendid, but that's besides the point anyways.

The YLOD I got was unlike any other, that I've witnessed anyways. The PS3 turns on, then instantly YLODs and turns off, blinking red until you hold down the power button. This is in a matter of a second or so.

According to some old YouTube video, this has something to do with a bridge, a fallen off solder ball, incorrect chip alignment or unplugged hardware such as the hard drive or a ribbon cable. Now, I'm almost positive that my console doesn't have any sort of issue because it worked just fine the day before, and all the days when I tried experimenting with unbricking it. So here I am writing this post, what is known about this kind of YLOD and other YLODs in general?

Thanks in advance.
 
This happens with my old PS4 FAT 60GB that used my main PSN account. I've been told it might be power related issue or something similar but I've never investigated it and just went out the same day and bought a new 3K Slim (back in 2012-ish) to replace my OFW PS3.
 
unfortunately, it's general hardware failure, so it could be anything. I think I've heard of a secondary code to pinpoint the problem. there's something like that with xbox 360. iirc, the rol quadants would flash, and each flash would correspond to a number. if there is something like that, it's probably outlined on psdevwiki. if it's a reball/reflow issue, I wouldn't even bother fixing it, 'cause you'd have to send the console to someone with the correct equipment. and, the going rate for that is around $80.
 
It would make sense to disassemble the unit and see if you can visually see any problems.
Aside from that, it would be very investigatory. I mean, check the obvious.
Reseat the ribbons, connections, and look for any damage or corrosion or anything like that.
Look at the power supply. Look for bulged caps and the like.
I dont' recommend heat tricks, but if it's the gpu heating the gpu to approximately 180 degrees safely will cause it to work temporarily. this does the same thing a reflow would do, but without the actual reflowing. or reballing even in that scenario. That's relative to a gpu issue that was shared with apple laptops w/ nvidia gpus.
Another tip (sounds dumb but follow) is to smell around. See if you can smell anything burned. that can usually help you pinpoint an area of issue. it should all smell about the same, and as weird as it sounds...its one of those kind of tricks of the trade.
Those first few seconds usually speak to things like cpu, gpu, syscon, etc...like primary systems...flash issue might also cause this.
 
pinky said:
unfortunately, it's general hardware failure, so it could be anything. I think I've heard of a secondary code to pinpoint the problem. there's something like that with xbox 360. iirc, the rol quadants would flash, and each flash would correspond to a number. if there is something like that, it's probably outlined on psdevwiki. if it's a reball/reflow issue, I wouldn't even bother fixing it, 'cause you'd have to send the console to someone with the correct equipment. and, the going rate for that is around $80.
Click to expand...

psykosis said:
It would make sense to disassemble the unit and see if you can visually see any problems.
Aside from that, it would be very investigatory. I mean, check the obvious.
Reseat the ribbons, connections, and look for any damage or corrosion or anything like that.
Look at the power supply. Look for bulged caps and the like.
I dont' recommend heat tricks, but if it's the gpu heating the gpu to approximately 180 degrees safely will cause it to work temporarily. this does the same thing a reflow would do, but without the actual reflowing. or reballing even in that scenario. That's relative to a gpu issue that was shared with apple laptops w/ nvidia gpus.
Another tip (sounds dumb but follow) is to smell around. See if you can smell anything burned. that can usually help you pinpoint an area of issue. it should all smell about the same, and as weird as it sounds...its one of those kind of tricks of the trade.
Those first few seconds usually speak to things like cpu, gpu, syscon, etc...like primary systems...flash issue might also cause this.
Click to expand...

Oh, my bad. I forgot to mention that I did open up the console, and nothing seemed bad whatsoever.
 
my advice is to dump the erk (if it ever works), copy what you need, then replace the system. ps3s are so cheap now that it would likely be cheaper to do that.
 
Abdallah Taha said:
@Naked_Snake1995 nec/tokin problem ?
Click to expand...
Judging by the situation it could be the RSX underfill that has gone bad, but you can only test it with the heatgun method, or a NEC/TOKIN Capacitors issue, but all PS3 that used the NEC Capacitors will get YLOD guaranteed, they are not the most reliable capacitors ever made.

But a split-second YLOD usually means a bad power delivery, as a failsafe or something disconnected.

Solder joint corrosion its also possible but that would require high levels of humidity, which also gives the YLOD (COK-002 Board tested on wet rain, and repaired with reflow didn't work).

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
pinky said:
my advice is to dump the erk (if it ever works), copy what you need, then replace the system. ps3s are so cheap now that it would likely be cheaper to do that.
Click to expand...

Having the ERK dumped was the way I could unbrick this PS3, lol.

Naked_Snake1995 said:
Judging by the situation it could be the RSX underfill that has gone bad, but you can only test it with the heatgun method, or a NEC/TOKIN Capacitors issue, but all PS3 that used the NEC Capacitors will get YLOD guaranteed, they are not the most reliable capacitors ever made.

But a split-second YLOD usually means a bad power delivery, as a failsafe or something disconnected.

Solder joint corrosion its also possible but that would require high levels of humidity, which also gives the YLOD (COK-002 Board tested on wet rain, and repaired with reflow didn't work).

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Alright, I'll try to find a heatgun to do the heatgun method with. Thanks for the help!
 
Laith said:
Having the ERK dumped was the way I could unbrick this PS3, lol.



Alright, I'll try to find a heatgun to do the heatgun method with. Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
Reminder, the heatgun, its only for testing purposes to see if the RSX is the culprit, do it only once at 150ºC for 2/4 min, its not a long lasting fix, its only for diagnostics :)
 
Have you tryed to replace the PSU ?
In my oppinion this is the first thng needed to do for diagnostics of this kind of problems
 
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e2cabcd4f38f769a87d63172f80e4bd9.jpg


Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
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