PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

sounds good. I dont think 1004 can be solved by reflow. I have read that it might be bad necs.

This is what I was thinking about... I reflowed CELL and then 3034 and 4001 disappeared, now I got it...
Have you checked all the fuses? What is your board issue?


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Hi,

I have a SEM-001 that had a overheating CELL. It would get to the point where the startup sound was playing then shut down.
Reading out temp info using syscon showed CELL temps above 95C so I tried to delid it (my first attempt).

Unfortunately I must have screwed up somehow because after deliding it now has a YLOD after a few seconds with error code 0xa0303030. I can't see any physical damage on the CELL chip and don't think I knocked any components off ...

Haven't seen that error code mentioned anywhere yet, does anyone have any ideas what it could mean, or any other suggestions on how to trace down the issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Bootup log:
>$ bringup
bringup
[SSM] state: 0000 -> 0101
Bringup Mode #0 (0xFF)
[SSM] ssmCb_OnStartingBePowOn() called.
[SSM] First Boot.
[SSM] Bringup mode : syspm_stat=00000000/00000000
[POWSEQ] PowerSeq_Setup called.
[SSM] state: 0101 -> 0201
[POWSEQ] AV Backend Setup
[SSM] state: 0201 -> 0102
[SSM] state: 0102 -> 0202
[SSM] state: 0202 -> 0103
[SSM] state: 0103 -> 0203
[SSM] ssmCb_BeforeBeOn() called.
[SSM] state: 0203 -> 0104
>$
[SSM] state: 0104 -> 0304
[SSM] ssmCb_AfterBeOn2() called.
[SSM] PowSeq Fail : Detected !
[SSM] state: 0304 -> 0700
[POWSEQ] AV Backend Letup
[SSM] Shutdown mode : syspm_stat=00000000/00000000
[ERROR]: 0xa0303030
[POWSEQ] PowerSeq_Letup called.
[SSM] state: 0700 -> 0600
(PowerOff State) (Fatal)

[mullion]$
 
You'll see the diode symbol (I've seen it on your image), anyway, do you think that error 1004 needs another reflow?
No, 1004 is power error. Note the prefix also; this (probably new) error likely is appearing before the other errors get the chance to come up. In any case...

do a proper reflow and it should come back to life.
I understand you are trying to help but this is dangerous advice. Yes, you did a "reflow" and the console revived. But the spirit of this thread (I hope) is to stop these poor machines from being destroyed.
Reflow is not repair. Don't sell or even give away a machine that has been "reflowed" at least without explicitly making this clear.
This is the same or worse than doing a fake "tokin fix". Yes, at least now you'd be addressing the real problem (3034~RSX) but sadly in a dodgy way still.
(Feel free to keep and use it for yourself, you can still have a lot of fun with it, but please don't mislead people. A hairdryer works too)
 
No, 1004 is power error. Note the prefix also; this (probably new) error likely is appearing before the other errors get the chance to come up. In any case...


I understand you are trying to help but this is dangerous advice. Yes, you did a "reflow" and the console revived. But the spirit of this thread (I hope) is to stop these poor machines from being destroyed.
Reflow is not repair. Don't sell or even give away a machine that has been "reflowed" at least without explicitly making this clear.
This is the same or worse than doing a fake "tokin fix". Yes, at least now you'd be addressing the real problem (3034~RSX) but sadly in a dodgy way still.
(Feel free to keep and use it for yourself, you can still have a lot of fun with it, but please don't mislead people. A hairdryer works too)

It's A0801004


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Can someone give me a step by step/tldr on how to do all this stuff for the syscon testing? Do I just buy one of those USB plugs, strip those wires, solder them to the specific things, and download the program or w/e?
 
It's A0801004


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
Hmm ok. So the hairdryer trick worked as you say and 3034 is gone for now. The YLOD should be longer than 3 seconds now. Good.

1004 is a power error. It can even happen in a perfectly working console simply when there's a power outage or unplugged from mains.

Try different PSU first
 
Can someone give me a step by step/tldr on how to do all this stuff for the syscon testing? Do I just buy one of those USB plugs, strip those wires, solder them to the specific things, and download the program or w/e?

yes you do, you'll need to identify your motherboard code (mine is cok-002).


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Can someone give me a step by step/tldr on how to do all this stuff for the syscon testing? Do I just buy one of those USB plugs, strip those wires, solder them to the specific things, and download the program or w/e?
Glad you ask. I wrote small step by step guide. You should be able to find it since it's not the first time I post it.

Cheers

I write this in addition to main guide (work in progress) done by db260179.
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/f...syscon-first-steps-and-error-reporting.30100/


I will try to explain step by step, as easy as I can explain it.
Really this can be done in 10 minutes.

First of all let's make clear what we are doing:
We are simply running a python script that will let us communicate with the PS3 SYSCON, using a 3.3v serial (COM) port.

We can thank guys like 'Major' and 'zecoxao' for making this possible in the first place. We are just running their script.

So, what do we need in order to run this script?

Python 2.7.18, with additional modules pycryptodome and pyserial

For Windows users (most people) this is what you can do:

-First install python 2.7.18 (you can get from python.org)
-When you run the installer, you can check the last box (it will make things easier; lets you run python commands from any location)
Once it's installed, you should already be able to run python commands and scripts. How? Directly from the windows command prompt (which you can open in many ways; I like shift+right click to open cmd window here)
you can type: python script.py

But our particular script relies on two additional modules. (If you try without them, it will tell you the problem)
But don't worry,
-You can download and install them automatically by typing:
pip install pycryptodome
pip install pyserial

That's it. Now you should be able to run the magic script. Just specify the COM port and the syscon mode at the end.
-For example:

python uart_script.py COM4 CXR

What COM port?
This is where the USB to serial 3.3v adapter comes in handy.
When you plug it into your computer, it should show up in device manager as a COM port. If not, you need to install drivers for it.
This will depend on your particular computer and dongle.

What is CXR? This will depend on the syscon you are trying to communicate with. SW is for newer (SherWood) Syscons. CXR(F) for the older BGA models
Further details in the PDF

If all is correct, no errors will come up immediately. Even without anything physically connected.
You can then type AUTH, and will get
"Auth1 response invalid"

Of course, to get past this, everything has to be connected and working properly. Even then it may take a couple tries in a row. Eventually you should get:
Auth successful

Which means all is good and you can now run external commands such as
ERRLOG GET 00

(If you are still getting "Auth1 response invalid", first simply try again a couple times, turn the ps3 power off and on, if not, swap Rx and Tx wire around and repeat. Check the connections etc... It should work in the end)


That's it for now

*But what serial adapter dongle should I get?

-This is the one I got and it works. 2$ worldwide.

US $1.14 | High Quality FT232RL FT232 FTDI USB 3.3V 5.5V to TTL Serial Adapter Module Mini Port
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vLbCPR

FT232RL is the name of the main IC.
But many others will work too. Get what's most available to you. These are widely used for many other applications. They are COMmon.
-Just make sure it's working at 3.3v. (Very important) (To make sure you can check 3.3v with a multimeter between Rx/Tx and GND) If it's 5v or more... It can damage the SYSCON so be careful... 3.3v only!
 
Hmm ok. So the hairdryer trick worked as you say and 3034 is gone for now. The YLOD should be longer than 3 seconds now. Good.

1004 is a power error. It can even happen in a perfectly working console simply when there's a power outage or unplugged from mains.

Try different PSU first

I hate reflowing but, I've done it simply because someone before me tried to do it on this poor little board (there were two shorted caps and no 12V that were causing ylod, but we are talking about something like 7 years ago...lots of people had total ignorance about it) and In my opinion He really caused some damage under the CELL (I also found cell necs a little melted)... I hope I'll find a way...


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Hmm ok. So the hairdryer trick worked as you say and 3034 is gone for now. The YLOD should be longer than 3 seconds now. Good.

1004 is a power error. It can even happen in a perfectly working console simply when there's a power outage or unplugged from mains.

Try different PSU first

I've just seen (while psu is plugged in) that both RSX and CELL become warm, obviously not tremendously hot (Are they alive?).


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 
This is what I was thinking about... I reflowed CELL and then 3034 and 4001 disappeared, now I got it...
Have you checked all the fuses? What is your board issue?


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
Reflowing the cell got 3034 to go since you likely got the GPU hot enough to "fix" the underfill temporarily, which means the GPU has just about had it, basically all of the systems ive had with error 3034, can be fixed by heating the GPU to 100C for a few mins, which isnt hot enough to melt the solder, but its hot enough to mess with the underfill and get it working for a short period of time
 
Reflowing the cell got 3034 to go since you likely got the GPU hot enough to "fix" the underfill temporarily, which means the GPU has just about had it, basically all of the systems ive had with error 3034, can be fixed by heating the GPU to 100C for a few mins, which isnt hot enough to melt the solder, but its hot enough to mess with the underfill and get it working for a short period of time
More likely what your're doing is warping the board such that a microscopic BGA defect is reconnecting mechanically. When the board relaxes naturally over the next few days-weeks the error will return.
I understand you are trying to help but this is dangerous advice. Yes, you did a "reflow" and the console revived. But the spirit of this thread (I hope) is to stop these poor machines from being destroyed.
Reflow is not repair. Don't sell or even give away a machine that has been "reflowed" at least without explicitly making this clear.
This is the same or worse than doing a fake "tokin fix". Yes, at least now you'd be addressing the real problem (3034~RSX) but sadly in a dodgy way still.
(Feel free to keep and use it for yourself, you can still have a lot of fun with it, but please don't mislead people. A hairdryer works too)
Preach brother!
 
More likely what your're doing is warping the board such that a microscopic BGA defect is reconnecting mechanically. When the board relaxes naturally over the next few days-weeks the error will return.
Preach brother!

Could be, however i still belive in it being underfill, since ive watched an 8600M GT degrade in front of my eyes slowly loosing PCIE lanes from X16 to X1, and both the 90NM RSX and 8600M GT have the black looking underfill and are both from around the same time period. However Nvidia later released a fixed chip with revised underfill, which is a lighter greyish colour, and those literally never fail. And funnily enough the 40NM RSX has the same lighter coloured underfill and those things are super reliable too. And both the revised 8600M GT and 40NM RSX released around the same time.

Could all just be coinsodence, but thats just me
 
BGA underfill epoxy is cured at temps of 120-165C for ~5 minutes. I haven't seen it melt until I got it above 240C during a reball, which was excessive since the SAC solder melts around 214C (I was having trouble with drafts under the MB).

...but based on context I think you must be reffering to the DIE "bumps," not the underfill? The bumps can certainly fail and eventually will.
 
BGA underfill epoxy is cured at temps of 120-165C for ~5 minutes. I haven't seen it melt until I got it above 240C during a reball, which was excessive since the SAC solder melts around 214C (I was having trouble with drafts under the MB).

...but based on context I think you must be reffering to the DIE "bumps," not the underfill? The bumps can certainly fail and eventually will.
Yeah I was using the incorrect terminology I guess
 
You mentioned the PCIe lanes reduced from 16x to 1x? That doesn't sound like a bump or BGA failure. It would be instant death if they broke connection. If you were overclocking and increasing core voltages to stabilize the clock frequency then electromigration would probably have greater effect on reducing the expected lifespan...and in a way that might slowly reduce the speed. Requiring more voltage to keep the same performance. In any case, IDK what they were doing with them in video cards at the time. Perhaps the grey undefill provided more support and the issue with the black stuff was that it waasn't durable enough for GPU designs...totally reasonable.

In the PS3 at least the RSX went from 90nm (too hot for reliability. Delta T was so high the mean time to BGA failure was barely beyond the warranty period) to 65nm and 40nm which were much more reliable. Eventually all the way down to 28nm. Once the heat was under control, the delta T wasn't so high, and thus the mean time to BGA failure was increased.
 
No, 1004 is power error. Note the prefix also; this (probably new) error likely is appearing before the other errors get the chance to come up. In any case...


I understand you are trying to help but this is dangerous advice. Yes, you did a "reflow" and the console revived. But the spirit of this thread (I hope) is to stop these poor machines from being destroyed.
Reflow is not repair. Don't sell or even give away a machine that has been "reflowed" at least without explicitly making this clear.
This is the same or worse than doing a fake "tokin fix". Yes, at least now you'd be addressing the real problem (3034~RSX) but sadly in a dodgy way still.
(Feel free to keep and use it for yourself, you can still have a lot of fun with it, but please don't mislead people. A hairdryer works too)[/QUOT
This is what I was thinking about... I reflowed CELL and then 3034 and 4001 disappeared, now I got it...
Have you checked all the fuses? What is your board issue?


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
What does the fuse look like?
 

All the fuses on the board have a comment alongside them (everyone starts with F and few numbers) check all them and see if they have continuity.
PS
I you find one of them blown, It usually means that there is a short around that is causing it.


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Glad you ask. I wrote small step by step guide. You should be able to find it since it's not the first time I post it.

Cheers

I write this in addition to main guide (work in progress) done by db260179.
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/f...syscon-first-steps-and-error-reporting.30100/


I will try to explain step by step, as easy as I can explain it.
Really this can be done in 10 minutes.

First of all let's make clear what we are doing:
We are simply running a python script that will let us communicate with the PS3 SYSCON, using a 3.3v serial (COM) port.

We can thank guys like 'Major' and 'zecoxao' for making this possible in the first place. We are just running their script.

So, what do we need in order to run this script?

Python 2.7.18, with additional modules pycryptodome and pyserial

For Windows users (most people) this is what you can do:

-First install python 2.7.18 (you can get from python.org)
-When you run the installer, you can check the last box (it will make things easier; lets you run python commands from any location)
Once it's installed, you should already be able to run python commands and scripts. How? Directly from the windows command prompt (which you can open in many ways; I like shift+right click to open cmd window here)
you can type: python script.py

But our particular script relies on two additional modules. (If you try without them, it will tell you the problem)
But don't worry,
-You can download and install them automatically by typing:
pip install pycryptodome
pip install pyserial

That's it. Now you should be able to run the magic script. Just specify the COM port and the syscon mode at the end.
-For example:

python uart_script.py COM4 CXR

What COM port?
This is where the USB to serial 3.3v adapter comes in handy.
When you plug it into your computer, it should show up in device manager as a COM port. If not, you need to install drivers for it.
This will depend on your particular computer and dongle.

What is CXR? This will depend on the syscon you are trying to communicate with. SW is for newer (SherWood) Syscons. CXR(F) for the older BGA models
Further details in the PDF

If all is correct, no errors will come up immediately. Even without anything physically connected.
You can then type AUTH, and will get
"Auth1 response invalid"

Of course, to get past this, everything has to be connected and working properly. Even then it may take a couple tries in a row. Eventually you should get:
Auth successful

Which means all is good and you can now run external commands such as
ERRLOG GET 00

(If you are still getting "Auth1 response invalid", first simply try again a couple times, turn the ps3 power off and on, if not, swap Rx and Tx wire around and repeat. Check the connections etc... It should work in the end)


That's it for now

*But what serial adapter dongle should I get?

-This is the one I got and it works. 2$ worldwide.

US $1.14 | High Quality FT232RL FT232 FTDI USB 3.3V 5.5V to TTL Serial Adapter Module Mini Port
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vLbCPR

FT232RL is the name of the main IC.
But many others will work too. Get what's most available to you. These are widely used for many other applications. They are COMmon.
-Just make sure it's working at 3.3v. (Very important) (To make sure you can check 3.3v with a multimeter between Rx/Tx and GND) If it's 5v or more... It can damage the SYSCON so be careful... 3.3v only!

The main guide says nothing about a serial adapter dongle, just a USB to TTS cable.
All this is doing is making me more and more confused.
 
The main guide says nothing about a serial adapter dongle, just a USB to TTS cable.
All this is doing is making me more and more confused.
Then maybe some more research on what this stuff is and what it does would be helpful. From a quick search on youtube (disclaimer, i haven't watched these videos), the following do come up. They're not directly related to the PS3, but the basic principles of what they are and what they do are the same

*
*
*
 

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