PS3 Frankenstein PHAT PS3: CECHA with 40nm RSX

sandungas said:
I guess the IO pins are programmables and can be configured in the bootloader, also, whoever that wrote the firmware for the modchip maybe made several versions of it

Actually, some posts ago i was wondering if the software inside the chip is different "by motherboard"
But in that case i quess the seller should advise @squeept that the modchips that was sent to him are compatible only with some PS3 motherboard/RSX
But none of you mentioned this, so by now im guessing whatever does the modcip is something generic, so either:
1) the modchip does the same thing for all them
2) the modchip does some kind of "smart" identification of the hardware and does something different based in the hardware checks
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Based on the little info provided by the seller, my latest guess with regards to compatibility was the following.

The IC appears to allow RSX series cxd2991-cxd5300 (models CHECHLxx through CECH-25xx) to be installed on any board from the models range CECHAxx - CECH-20xxB. Compatibility of the later RSX versions cxd5301-cxd5302 (CECH-30xx to CECH-43xx) probably needs to be confirmed (depends what's changed since cxd5300).

But these are speculations. For instance, CECHJ and CECHK use 65nm rsx that is marked as cdx2982GB (DIA-002 boards) . Seller did not list that one.

Source https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/RSX

You guys are free to confrim/disprove.
 
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DeadEnd said:
Based on the little info provided by the seller, my latest guess with regards to compatibility was the following.

The IC appears to allow RSX series cxd2991-cxd5300 (models CHECHLxx through CECH-25xx) to be installed on any board from the models range CECHAxx - CECH-20xxB. Compatibility of the later RSX versions cxd5301-cxd5302 (CECH-30xx to CECH-43xx) probably needs to be confirmed (depends what's changed since cxd5300).

But these are speculations. For instance, CECHJ and CECHK use 65nm rsx that is marked as cdx2982GB (DIA-002 boards) . Seller did not list that one.

Source https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/RSX

You guys are free to confrim/disprove.
Click to expand...
Kind of a toss up but we won't know until we can fully test it, it could be that the original seller just lists them that way the same way I denote all 25- series models as 25XX or 2500, they're all the same essentially.
Also as far as I'm aware the 43XX models only ever came with boards containing the 28nm RSX, none had the 40nm RSX still.
 
This is the very first listing that seems to exist for the RSX "orbis mod". The listing has questions from all the way back in September of 2018. https://www.tokopedia.com/orbistech/ps3-rsx-mod?whid=0
The sellers username is "orbis tech" and they only seem to sell products related to the PS3 so I think there's a good chance it was created by them, every other listing I've come across is more expensive which is probably due to it being sold by someone just acting as a reseller.
Frustratingly... the last time it seems like they were online was mid 2020 soo...
 
RIP-Felix said:
The disproving will have to wait until someone actually installs one and reports back.

Any ETA on that?
Click to expand...

Well, I cheaped out on DHL express so the shipping is sluggish. Maybe next week it's here, if I'm lucky. Squeept will get it earlier and test it out first, I'm sure.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but would the SPI setting on my logic analyzer be the exact thing I need for capturing the data from the mod chip?
20210328_005324.jpg
20210328_005446.jpg
 
I think SPI sniffer will be enough to see what is done by this CPLD, so even no need to read exact firmware from it. My expectation is that this CPLD is "listening" to communication between chips and just replacing (driving it with more current) some bytes containing chip revision.
 
I have a dilemma. Let me know what you would do:
I just bought a P model (65nm RSX) for $32 and a 30xx model (40nm RSX) for $36. Both were cheap and sold for parts. The p model works fine. The 30xx model only shows a red led for a moment when plugged in, then it goes off and pressing the PWR button does nothing. I suspect a dead PSU (not sure, I haven't worked on many slim models). I bought them to harvest the RSX to potentially attempt the frankenstin mod if the mod chip works.

Here's the dilemma. The slim probably just needs a PSU and would be a reliable slim model after that. The P model is a working 65nm PHAT as is. Would you destroy a working, or easily fixed, console just to harvest its RSX? It feels wrong, even though that's what I bought them for!
 
RIP-Felix said:
I have a dilemma. Let me know what you would do:
I just bought a P model (65nm RSX) for $32 and a 30xx model (40nm RSX) for $36. Both were cheap and sold for parts. The p model works fine. The 30xx model only shows a red led for a moment when plugged in, then it goes off and pressing the PWR button does nothing. I suspect a dead PSU (not sure, I haven't worked on many slim models). I bought them to harvest the RSX to potentially attempt the frankenstin mod if the mod chip works.

Here's the dilemma. The slim probably just needs a PSU and would be a reliable slim model after that. The P model is a working 65nm PHAT as is. Would you destroy a working, or easily fixed, console just to harvest its RSX? It feels wrong, even though that's what I bought them for!
Click to expand...
At such a low price, I'd say it's worth the sacrifice...
 
RIP-Felix said:
I have a dilemma. Let me know what you would do:
I just bought a P model (65nm RSX) for $32 and a 30xx model (40nm RSX) for $36. Both were cheap and sold for parts. The p model works fine. The 30xx model only shows a red led for a moment when plugged in, then it goes off and pressing the PWR button does nothing. I suspect a dead PSU (not sure, I haven't worked on many slim models). I bought them to harvest the RSX to potentially attempt the frankenstin mod if the mod chip works.

Here's the dilemma. The slim probably just needs a PSU and would be a reliable slim model after that. The P model is a working 65nm PHAT as is. Would you destroy a working, or easily fixed, console just to harvest its RSX? It feels wrong, even though that's what I bought them for!
Click to expand...
It might also be a dead wifi/bt board, which is a PITA to replace.
 
That's true, I haven't done extensive testing on them to confirm they don't have other issues. The thing is, I do have two slims, but they are 20xx (65nm) models. I would would kinda like to have a 30xx model with its more reliable 40nm. Yeah, I'd much rather have an A model with the 40nm, but the chances of sucess are pretty...um, slim! It'd just be a shame to brick a working board to obtain the RSX.

...but for the price I paid, I'm not out much if it doesn't work and the upside is tremendous. Oh the ethical dilemma!

PS:
I like the matte silver trim on the P model. It looks sharp! I didn't notice that before, but I think it looks better than the mirror finish on the A models.
 
Btw guys, the reballing process is a nightmare. Not to mention the blue jig tool I'm using is the worst, it can barely hold the rsx in place. So don't expect results any time soon. I have sent one modchip to Victor also. And squeept will most likely get his very soon. They are more experienced and would complete the process faster. At this rate, it will take me a while before I even get to the modchip testing stage...
 
I will wait my turn for tests. I have multiple slims boards and probably what I need some c models, what I have left few c models which are kind scrap. I will try with untouched boards where I am confident that reball process is my issue if they fail.
 
DeadEnd said:
Btw guys, the reballing process is a nightmare. Not to mention the blue jig tool I'm using is the worst, it can barely hold the rsx in place. So don't expect results any time soon. I have sent one modchip to Victor also. And squeept will most likely get his very soon. They are more experienced and would complete the process faster. At this rate, it will take me a while before I even get to the modchip testing stage...
Click to expand...
Do you mean this POS?
POS Reball jig.jpg

That's the one I tried (and failed) with PS3 #'s 1 and 2. The tiny little edges couldn't hold onto the chip with any force since you have to adjust the four sliding aluminum doohickeys independently. It just kinda sits in there. Well, the one on the lest has a little spring thing, but it's a joke. Pops out constantly! It made centering the chip to line up with the stencil A NIGHTMARE! Took me an hour just to set it for the RSX. Useless...

Anyway, I just bought this and am waiting for it to arrive from China...
236085.jpg

The central screw makes adjusting it easy, always centered, and allows you to apply some pressure to hold the chip in place (I'm hoping).
 
Also, I was thinking of using solder paste instead of solder balls. Has anyone tried that?

I watched a youtube video of a guy who reballed this way. Essentially he used the stencil to smear the paste through the holes then, without removing the stencil, used hot air to melt the paste and form the balls. No squirming solder balls bridging with their neighbors, the perfect amount of flux to prevent oxidation, the stencil kept the solder over their pad! Looked easier all around. You need stencils that can be heated and wont stick to the solder. And I'm not sure if the amount of solder paste that fits into the stencil (probably less than a ball) would work or not.
 
I think that using proper stencil (I'm using kit from AliExpress with 270 stencils for approx. 30 USD) and balls makes reballing as easy as any other soldering activity. AliExpress stencils are not bending when heating. You only need to sit all balls in their holes and heat it to ~200 degrees C. And of course don'to forget to apply good flux. The whole process of desoldering, reballing and soldering it back is no more than 1 hour.
 
So, I must have gone wrong because I lifted the stencil before heating (with a hot air wand). They swam! You leave the stencil in place while heating the balls?
 
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