Exactly XDWhy did they even put in a blue LED if it isn't even hooked up?
So these mystery LED's are in a CECH-2503B?And in CECH-21xx and CECH-25xx is 1 blue and 1 red (this is even more purple, with more red)
There is no problem with the flex cable, the signal sent by syscon is connected to the "base" pin of the transistors (and every transistor controls 2 leds)That would be a neat idea, Temp Controled LED, but do you think its possible? I am in doubts wheatear that flex cable can send info to the side LED
It can be made, but you need to cut the line in between the 2 transistors "base" pinsSo no chance to have The red for turned off and blue for on in the HSW-001 =(
Right, im going to move the thread, thx for mentioning it, i didnt realized, hehehBTW, shouldn't this thread be located in the PS3 section?
There is no problem with the flex cable, the signal sent by syscon is connected to the "base" pin of the transistors (and every transistor controls 2 leds)
Think in the transistor like a switch with 2 positions ON/OFF and controlled by a low power signal sent by syscon
When syscon sends the "ON" signal... the transistor connects the ground pins of the leds... to ground
In plain words... the lines at left of the transistors are completly separated from the lines at rights of the transistor
It can be made, but you need to cut the line in between the 2 transistors "base" pins
The point is... to achieve what you want... you need to control the 2 transistors separatedly
And what you can do is to connect every transistor to another line
What i did is to connect a transistor to the line that turn on the white leds (located under the buttons) and enabled all the time when the PS3 is ON
But you can do the same with the line that controlls the red led for standby
Right, im going to move the thread, thx for mentioning it, i didnt realized, heheh
Perhaps it was a prototype board idea, kind like the DEH 60GB proto that had a different board switch and lights from the retail, so its better for Sony to block the traces rather than redesigning the whole PCB from scratch.Why did they even put in a blue LED if it isn't even hooked up?
So, the solder point on the very left hand side of the blue line is if you decide to add more LED's in? Basically its the one on the very right and the one next to the chip that has N4 on it?The tutorial of what i did is mostly this image, only is needed 1 wire
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The blue line is a wire you need to solder in 3 points
And everythig i marked as "optional" is not needed
Also, the solder point most at left of the blue line is only needed if you are going to add the other leds
The reason why i soldered the blue line in 2 points at left is because this way you can control the 4 leds with only 1 line
Yes, the easyest way to do it is this way:So, the solder point on the very left hand side of the blue line is if you decide to add more LED's in? Basically its the one on the very right and the one next to the chip that has N4 on it?
EDIT: Just making sure as i have a 25xx and was thinking of doing this to mine.
There is a formula to calculate the resistor for a given led... to do it accuratelly is needed to use in the formula some of the values that appears in the datasheet of the led manufacturer
https://www.kitronik.co.uk/blog/led-resistor-value-calculator/
https://www.kitronik.co.uk/blog/which-resistor-should-i-use-with-my-led/
The problem is usually we dont have the datasheet of the led manufacturer... and also the formula is going to give you a value for the resistor that will allow the led to emit the most light posible (inside the safe range)
Is safe... but lets say... is making the led to work at 100% workload
In the practise... we dont need the led to be working at full... is better to use a resistor with bigger values than the ones given by the formula
In general what everybody does is to use a resistor of 100ohm for the first test (because this should be enought and safe), and incase is emiting too much light replace the resistor by a much bigger value
For reference, look at the the resistors used in HSW-001 one of them is 820ohm (for blue) and the other 3000ohm (for red)... this means the red color have lower intensity
By playing with that you can achieve any color, are needed 3 leds in RGB and set the intensity of everyone of them with his resistor
The board have room for 4... so the 4th you can use a white led to change the brightness of the color generated by the others RGB
The leds in the switch boards of the PS3 works at 5v and are "SMD"... but under the category "SMD" there are different sizes, you need the smallest ones (i dont remember the exact size right now, maybe i wrote it in some place in wiki, take a look i guess i noted it somewhere)
And you can find them in ebay... i bought a pack of 100 (5 colors * 20 leds each) for 3€ free shipping or so
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The circuit of DSW-001 is a bit more tricky than HSW-001 because the DSW-001 PCB is "dual side" (it has circuits at both sides)
HSW-001 is a lot more straightforward because you have everything in the same side... so you can follow all the traces easilly
Right now i cant show you images of how people was doing this mod in DSW-001 but i remember to see some photos of it, you are going to need to search in google if you find something about it
Too much light for my taste, i just enabled one blue led because all i wanted was an small effect, the problem is the lightbar doesnt fills completly (just 1/6 or so like in your image)
The photos in wiki of the DSW-001 board are not good enought to see the circuit, im sure is going to be pretty much like the HSW-001 but i cant tell you where to solder or whatever :/
Btw... if what you want is to have the "misterious leds" enabled when the PS3 is in standby the mod is a lot easyer than what i was suggesting
The only thing you need to do is to connect the GND pins of the leds to GND (there are a lot of available GND areas all around, choose the easyest, or the closest)
Im not much into leds, but i love this invention btw, is named "ambilight" and is patented by philips (and they holds the patent until not sure when so other TV manufacturers cant use it, and that sucks)
And... not sure if you knew it, but search in google for "clear epoxy resin" maybe comes in handy for what you want to do, initially is very fluid (like honey), you need to prepare a "mold" of silicone... then drop the resine in it and "hit" it a bit (to take out the bubbles), then let it dry and the result is awesome... is like glass
I remember to see a "do it yourself" tutorial using it to create transparent buttons for a gamepad (or a portable console), and the result was awesome, like made by a machine
My CECH2003A