Problem without PS2 games

The way to check the tokin caps is by soldering additional caps on them, this is what is usually named "piggybacking"... as a temporal test. If the PS3 returns to work normally with them you can think in repeating the solder job in a better way

I was drawing some schematics of how to do it in the other thread, but was mostly suggestions and i didnt have much feedback if what i was saying was good enought

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But all this related with the tokins is serious surgery... before that you should repeat the temperature stress tests in the most accurate way posible
And check the heatsink too

The solder iron goes at the end :P
 
It's been a while, but I've learned some about NEC tokins. And I've did measurements, my NEC tokins have (bottom on picture) 570uF, and (top on picture) 620. Do I need to solder two 330 on each NEC tokins? Do I need add exactly tantalum to have 1200uF on each, or it need to be something around that number. Could you show me on my picture how many tantalum caps do I need to solder and where, and where solder ground(-).
 

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It's been a while, but I've learned some about NEC tokins. And I've did measurements, my NEC tokins have (bottom on picture) 570uF, and (top on picture) 620. Do I need to solder two 330 on each NEC tokins? Do I need add exactly tantalum to have 1200uF on each, or it need to be something around that number. Could you show me on my picture how many tantalum caps do I need to solder and where, and where solder ground(-).
I made a drawing and uploaded to this thread ---> http://www.psx-place.com/threads/ce...one-game-ylod-style.20826/page-11#post-157707
I think is better to cummulate all talks about tokins in the other thread, this way eventually someone will review, rewrite or make better drawings, etc...
 

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