PS3 PS3 FAT CECHC04 - COK-002 - GLOD - no video on HDMI and Component

There might be something wrong with the delid of the RSX?seems disturbingly high imho.
 

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Liquid metal is really working, look at this GLOD recovered console. Along with the pressure mod it also has the tantalum caps piggybacked on, along with the liquid metal under the RSX heat spreader.

Over two hours on TLOU and on 32 percent fan speed the temps are insane (see pic)
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Yokay it's liquid metal, but without it normal paste would do around 60c, or higher ? I don't think this is normal.
 
For me thats all to high, RSX and CPU for my liking, like I said is the RSX heat spreader attached to the heat sink with thermal paste? Have you positioned it correctly?

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Thanks mate! Nice slippers tho! =)
XBR mentioned a link before, just looked it up. Im calmed now. :D
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/t...l-dissipation-without-removing-the-ihs.23066/
I recommend that to make the Delid use an LCD screen cutting line, it is used in technical assistance to cut the glue between the Display and the cell phone's glass screen, for example, and is extremely thin, ranging from 0.03 to 0.1 mm in , I tested it in two scraps and in both I removed the IHS without damaging the CPU, it just takes a little longer, but for the extra security it offers, it's worth it.

to soften the glue, I recommend using kerosene, as it does not damage the board and is electrically non-conductive, many say you don't even need to wash the board after application, but wash the area with isopropyl alcohol for guarantee.
 
a good one I can give you:

instead of using a thermal pad, use a rubber, the same used at school, with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, as they are much longer lasting and will not deform so much when pressing with the springs.

in Rsx you put it behind it and it worked, in Cell you must put it around that hole on the board, you must not put the rubber touching the processor (in the case of the capacitors that are soldered behind the capacitor)
I have a paint file that explains well what I meant but I can't send it now, I'm on my cell phone but in the afternoon I'll be with the notebook and I'll send the photo =)

Maybe this will be the reason, I'll give it a try tomorrow after exam. :)
 
You should have applied the RSX heat spreader directly to the heatsink. I show this in my de-lid youtuube recording, also have you taken all the old thermal glue off the heat spreader?

By placing the lid back on the RSX means the slightest movement will effect the contact with the RSX dye.



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You should have applied the RSX heat spreader directly to the heatsink. I show this in my de-lid youtuube recording, also have you taken all the old thermal glue off the heat spreader?

By placing the lid back on the RSX means the slightest movement will effect the contact with the RSX dye.



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Tried to find the yt vid, but not sure if I'm find the right one.
dont see where, and how you put the ihs to the heatsink. Sorry., ive got shocked by the wall outlet, and now I dont have red light on the touch bar (even if i exchanged the touch with the one i just turned off) :(

Did i screwed up? :/
 
What, how did you get a shock, obviously don't work on the console if its plugged in,

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It can be seen in the YouTube video I did for liquid metal de-lid I did on the RSX and CPU
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:congratulatory: well i still live after the shock, but i dont have the power to look after them tonight. Ill do that tomorrow, maybe later, I'll be moving soon to another flat, but its almost a ruin. :ambivalence: so i need to work on that more likely. :(
Please explain to me what you were doing on it that you got the shock, or rather why were you handling the motherboard energized? Because unless I was doing a Syscon read, I don't see any reason to.

Or was the shock static?
I'm curious now, we can't miss it after so much research LOL

Take the opportunity to comment, if he is not lighting the red LED, if the problem is not in the source, check the capacitors and other components in the shock area, see if anything is cracked, cracked or shorted.
 
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