PS3 Reball ps3 Cell/RSX

[vyktormvmpay25]

Something that I've waited so long. Few super slim suggested some imperfect connection related by syscon tool. I will see with time really an issue with gpu or cpu.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Why I hate Mondays and I want to chill? I always get worst things to do. Changing ps4 hdmi port is worst thing ever for me, far worst then reball cpu and gpu in ps3. You never know if a dropped ps4 will ever work after reball. I will see later

Hdmi done. Doing top soldering with one hand solder iron and another hand with heating gun at 200 moving around bottom pcb never failed. Hard part is right corner but after a while you get use with it.

That bench vice for reball was never been used for what is intended for, is very handy when I work on WiFi modules, but even like that it absorbs too much heat.
The good part is that got call for ps5 hdmi port (Sorry not on stock, probably after 3 months I can help ). I hope to see a board for inspection.

 

[DeadEnd]

Tried to do it my way Had a good start, but some balls still got merged. Later I fixed them all, but didn't check that camera went out of frame. So only the beginning part is recorded. This method works pretty good after some practice. Sadly you can't tell how far away I was holding the heat gun , it actually wasn't THAT close.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

I've been working late for an slim, it's not finished, probably tomorrow will be.
Just read on thread beginning to use vs player with synchronius 4 videos and you can zoom.
Well not very good cameras for 2 mp but still you will understand most of the process.
http://s.go.ro/lm4hlqom

 

[DeadEnd]

I've been working late for an slim, it's not finished, probably tomorrow will be.
Just read on thread beginning to use vs player with synchronius 4 videos and you can zoom.
Well not very good cameras for 2 mp but still you will understand most of the process.
http://s.go.ro/lm4hlqom

I tried to watch your videos, but I couldn't open any of them. I couldn't download them either. Can you share them on youtube maybe?

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

I've check with some people here. Yes I know playing directly from storage won't work so they downloaded. I will try to get in touch with support. You will get an ftp from them in pm.
I do not understand why download won't work. Did someone else had issues with downloading links/videos?
On phone should work well each video with vlc
Downloaded all as automatically one archive went fine.
I will try yt but won't have zoom in option as this player.
Edit
Can see this directly in to vlc with phone, should work on pc with vlc.
ftp deleted not needed

 

[DeadEnd]

I've check with some people here. Yes I know playing directly from storage won't work so they downloaded. I will try to get in touch with support. You will get an ftp from them in pm.
I do not understand why download won't work. Did someone else had issues with downloading links/videos?
On phone should work well each video with vlc
Downloaded all as automatically one archive went fine.
I will try yt but won't have zoom in option as this player.

Ok I finally downloaded. Of course appreciate your efforts, but the cameras are too far. I zoomed as much as possible, and yeah, I can see the process and the idea, but I think there are better videos already on youtube with the same steps. Of course in those videos , the most important details are not explained such as temperature changes or hot air distances, etc. And you clarified in your texts about it already, but I think the best would be to make a complete guide of every detail as much as possible with good camera angles and explanations. Something like a professional tutorial. I would try to do it , but my station is not in the presentable condition at the moment. I can imagine lots of comments about how dangerous and badly built it is, so I don't dare to film it yet. Also I need more experience.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Don't worry if you don't manage to do it i will test mine then I will send one ps3 board to you without xc ic to test your ic at least.
Not sure when i get that ic ,did they give any tracking number? I assume not.
I should change analog camera of 2mp with ips but good qualyty are expensive and 8 mp goes over 1000euro which i rater invest in tool then live streaming . it depends if I suggest or focused to work and dont pay attention on what i work on ,may something go wrong with those rare boards now. I get slims easy but phat untouched boards it is very hard.
Heating at point where heat gun can melt alloy at his liquid point.
If set top heat gun 190 and melt leaded alloy at 3~4 cm thats fine. Example: preheat rsx without ihs on bottom with an 500w plate on 50/60 celsius .The bottom will reach at some point 120 celsius cummulated temperature if top heating at 190 . Don't cross over.
Lead free it is bit different set 80 bottom , set top at 210 ,preheat top for 2~3 minutes , go with top at 220~240 until you see they start melting. Mine goes with direct heat stencil , after add extra flux and heat to liquid again, see right shape/place.
The poin is like that take one thermacouple and see temps when ic reaced liquid stage .
Take measurements after ic was desoldered from mobo,take measurements after added new balls.
Begin wil leaded becaust is less risky. Every method is different and people should not fallow me if they don't feel confident ,I'm not responsible if they break/destroy motherboard or rsx/cpu.
I've trained myself over years is not something that can be learned quick!
First few units will be hard to understend and I keep my state as most boards of ps3 got deformation in time and only reball will save those .Not reflow. Once all measurements was seen on motherboard you are ready.
At some points where ic will bump up , melting of some balls will make remove ic impossible, I push each corner down to see ic sliding easily.

 

[DeadEnd]

The one with tracking costed more, you said you didn't want tracking. I guess it would have been smarter to just order from that person in indonesia directly. I just thought because she had sent it to me already, then I would be getting it faster and that way you can also get it sooner (didn't have to wait when she gets it first, then sends, et). But maybe through me it will actually take longer ... In any case, I think I just popcorned that rsx from slim. Was trying to soldering it to the fat board without IHS, the balls still came out from under ram chips ... To be honest, this seems very complex now. I should have a proper station and maybe then it can work better. My current one is DIY, not reliable. Maybe top heater is not even enough. If I could just send you 2 boards, one cok002 and one slim with working RSX, and you can transplant 40nm onto cok002?

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

I will wait those post services( I know they move slow even if package is in our country) ,not rushing atm more with another things.We will sort soon everything.
Usualy all stations I've seen use 4 cm between bottom board and top ir hear.It is different on top hot air heating.

 

[DeadEnd]

Here is another example of a home-made station for 60 usd controlled via computer software and arduino.

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https://mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/47529.html

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Here is another example of a home-made station for 60 usd controlled via computer software and arduino.

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https://mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/47529.html

You can try mine and add third thermocouple,
as long as you reach temperature and have bottom heating of 2000 w and top heating of minimum 400 w. Profiles are more important
Set motherboard in central of 4 cm from bottom, 4 cm from top (if ir heating).
Now first stage of 120 Celsius calibration should be able to reach in few minutes. See how board reached 120 when bottom is set to 280~320 and top should be 100 at test beginning. See and count 1 celsius /2 seconds maximum after board reached 50 Celsius.
Now 180 Celsius should be reach quite same but reduce bottom at 250~280 and top at 170 and see if board will reach beside ic 180 from inert temperature from bottom. This will be 1 celsius /1~2 seconds. Now stage of 225 can be done with bottom at 250 and top heating at 215. Here should be reached with 1 celsius /2~3 seconds. At 215 can stop top heating but leave in place so ic still absorb heating and bottom still work at 250.
See heating on ic should go slow up over 225 more heated from bottom. If are near as all product MSL profiles from Google are advised then you can desolder like any ic size.
This is how I don't get board burst or flux should not be bursted/brown/black.
Mine Re 8500 have 3000 w bottom is harder to be controlled and had to be reduced by percentage both top/bottom.
From what I see the Max 31855 thermal sensor converter is very accurate.
Something that everyone should understand sometimes cheap tools won't be enough to do a job so may need to invest more.
Why I've created that dual, because I already have invested in tools and have most of the parts, what was annoying at one point that S3 controllers used in hot air heating gun. When that ic will fail nothing we can do.
So adding this dual thermal controller to any type of heater will be more than enough.
I always set my rework manually so I don't really need presets to automatically desoldered. Engineers will confirm those profiles are more for mass production.
http://s.go.ro/4xnnslfs
My profile is set by IR top/bottom, could work well with hot air but can't test. Probably I will do something with time, need testing first.

 

[DeadEnd]

Thanks for the suggestions. It is not my version of the station in the link, just an example if somebody wants to build one. Mine was even more difficult. I think mine is 4-5cm from the the top and bottom already. I only use 1 thermocouple near the chip. With that I let it the board get to 140 C only with bottom heat turned on. Then I turn top heater on and select profile for 220 degrees, it uses that same thermocouple near the chip to see the temperature, and it also reaches 140 very fast to match with the bottom. Then it begins to slowly climb up to 220 C. Some people have said that 140 degrees using bottom is not enough, needs to be 180 to "soak" the board properly. Maybe that is another way. Have to keep experimenting. Maybe also the fact that top ram chips get much higher temps from the top and too fast, and their solder balls explode from that...My top heater is also quite wide https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32847566615.html

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Yes it can work with 180 but you need somehow reduce temperature of bottom until top will reach 220 and last few 10 °should be absorbed more from bottom. So if you have at beginning 320 your bottom, on reflow stage should be for beginning 250, if won't go slower with 1°/3~4 seconds beside top ic reading 225 or more , increase bottom to 260 and so on. Balance time with cumulated temperatures slow. You must have second controller with bottom or I don't understand something?
If you give full power of bottom in last stage this is your problem with bump in ic.

 

[DeadEnd]

I will explain later how my version works. It originally had 2 temperature sensors, but I accidentally burned out one of the amplifiers. Now both bottom and top are relying on only one thermocouple next to the chip. So I manually adjust the bottom heat in percentage, once thermo senses that it's 140-180 next to chip (I have no idea how hot the underside of the board actually is), I can turn the top to automatic. The top also sees the temperature from the same thermocouple and slowly "rides" on it to get overall temperature up to 190-220 (I also don't know what the true temperature inside the top heater is). The programmer designed automatic heating for the top one to follow the soaking and melting curves that you linked before. So the system only uses one temperature sensor that I can manually place wherever I want, and I place it usually on top of the board next to RSX. Both heaters rely only on that one sensor, I just prefer to use manual control for the bottom preheater, and automatic for the top.

I have now finally soldered the 65nm one to the board with no issues. Sadly I don't know if the board was even ok in the first place, because I had tried to reflash syscon on it using teensy and the tool that failed (syscon didn't let me overwrite original data). So now that I 'messed" with the syscon, there would be no way to know if the board is ok or not. This is just for practicing, I would be surprised if modchip actually makes it work. Next test would be with untouched board (If I get the courage).

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

It take to much time for phats, I assume people still interested in Ps1/ps2 games natively playing on ps3 so they are putting effort into this 4 USB models.
Edit 17.04.2021
Got out an 40 nm trying to get some photos of a good resistance. May be different results from rsx/board. As long as they don't show short are good enough to go. Got a good board I think will run late test today or tomorrow for sure.

Added few more pinout photos of cok002 board
http://s.go.ro/ax49drsu
There is a excel sheet that will be updated on my free time.
http://s.go.ro/6t2tncbo
Some of them from unfinished rsx ram pinout.

I will post here more relate updates about Xc2c32a mod chip as I don't want to post out of topics on others thread.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Leaded alloy balls that are safe for any rsx.
Usually this is something quick.
Using direct heat stencil.
Once added balls, heat with hot air gun on distance of 2~3 cm each area about 3~5 seconds until bottom aluminium plate will show around 120.Now keeping in place 10~15 seconds will see melting balls.
Once covered entirely, let IC drop down few grades like 5 then add on top flux just enough to melt in a better shape. May sound easy but get focus first time.
Once you see all alloy balls melted, remove stencil, all should look in shape, add while still hot extra flux with painting pencil just enough to pass over all.
Must check resistance of ic, should see same values as before adding balls. From this stage you are sure you have a good ic ready to solder back to board.

Microscope camera is a must, even 2, one on working table for daily repairs, second one on rework station on fixed place that will investigate solder balls under ic.

Under ic after soldering process is done and cold down there is a difference of 0.2~0.3mm.
Now just by looking on all corners you can be sure this ic is working. It is more mechanical and with time you get use with it and confident enough.
Just before preparing board to solder rsx, cover cpu bottom hole always.

Removed this cover from bottom cpu,
take measurements again.
This board will show very low resistance now on both.
This has 40nm rsx so I assume that's why.

Now on a room temperature will become as values from beginning. Probably MSL effect and I may leave in oven for 2 hours.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Almost forgot about rest of rsx points of power lines

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Added silicone to ihs back and left to cure until tomorrow.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Finally got my test. I don't know why Sony used metal inside thermal pads, test with magnet attracted to it. I will use them back.
I speak about those small thermal pads on top of IOR ic. Rest aren't metalic.

Final test.
http://s.go.ro/vszupawm